Fiber Cement Board with Both Sides Sanding
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 600 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 20000 pc/month
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Products Introduction:
Sanle fiber cement board is made of high-grade cement and modified material, reinforced by natural fiber. Being processed by high pressure and high temperature advanced technologies, Sanle fiber cement board is a new building material with excellent performances.
Features
Fire Proof & Insulation
Class A non-inflammability, no toxic gas, low in perveance, good electric insulation material
Waterproof and Moisture Proof
In semi-outdoor area and under high temperature condition, performance of Sanle boards is stable and will not bend or deform.
Thermal Insulation and Sound Insulation
Low thermal conductivity, good heat insulation, high in density, sound proof
Light weight & High strength
Pressured by 5000-ton hydraulic machine, it is high in strength and light in weight. It is not easy to deform and bend, and good for flooring and roofing.
Easy installation
Economical and Good looking
The boards are light in weight. Together with the use of keels, they can save cost of construction and decoration. The painting is uniform, and the surface is smooth, making the exterior of buildings good-looking and attractive.
Safe and Harmless
Test result of Sanle boards is better than national radiation protection standards of building materials. The radiation from Sanle boards is equal to that from the lawn 20 meters away from the building. The lifespan of Sanle boards is very long, and they are resistant to acid and alkali, moisture and insects. The toughness and strength remains the same when time passes by. So they can be used for a long time.
Easy to install and easy to replace
The boards can be drilled, cut, engraved, nailed, painted and covered by tiles or sticker when necessary..
Description:
1.Superposition joint part between main carrier and vice carrier or vice carrier and carrier is called point lap.
2.It uses lap structure to assembly, connection between joints dovetail very well. The joint face unknits and have a nice appearance.
3.There is a barb at the vice carrier joint, it can avoid loosing and falling from the infection of outside force.
4.Soleplate of main and vice carrier is zincification armor plate, which meets the national GB standard demand. We use baked paint zincifcation armor plate as baked paint panel,whoes capacity of zincification is high. It meet the national GB standard demand.
5. Raw Meterial is galvanized steel with 80-100g/sqm
FAQ
1.Sample: small sample can be offered by free
2.OEM: OEM is accepted
3.MOQ: small order is ok
4.Test: any third party is accepted to test
5.Factory: Can visit factory any time
6.Delivery Time: small order is within 7days or according to your order
- Q: I would like to replace my carpet with a real hard wood floor., but my floor under the carpet is cement. Can any one give me advise as to how I go about this. want to do it myself.
- It can be a big job. You can use an engineered wood floor and glue it down (This is not like laminate more like plywood, the top layer is relatively thick and could be refinished years down the road if needed). First you have to make sure you don't have excessive moisture in the slab. Seal it if needed. I have a glue down hardwood floor my bedroom is 25+ years old and a few years ago did the rest of my house. It's fine. If you want to DIY do some reading about it first. Get a how to book on-line or at a home improvement center. It is certainly doable. The comment about access, regardless of your flooring choice ripping up the slab will obviously ruin the floor, so I don't think that is a consideration. Tile doesn't like being ripped up either.
- Q: Is it a decoration material? What's the difference?
- Wood and Miyan cement board is a decoration material, like a large piece of gypsum board, the size is 1220X2440 (MM), wood grain cement board is more delicate, more beautiful rock.
- Q: how much space should i be giving over my tub? ill be infront of the bath tub lip because of some issues trying to make everything flush.ive heard to just butt it up against the tub, but then ive heard give a 1/8 of a space for grout. any1 know?
- If there is a lip on the tub that is usually around an 1/8 thick I use thin strips of wood to fur out the stud creating a flat smooth surface from the ceiling to the top of the tub. Then the tile backer is screwed to the studs and leave approx 1/8 clearance at the bottom to avoid any water that may eventually creep under if the caulk fails from wicking up into your backer. You could use the end of a paint stirring stick on the tub to create the small space I am suggesting. I haven't used cementatious backer board ( WonderBoard or Durock) in the last 10 years. I have found the best product for ease of installation and durability is Hardiebacker. It is a little more than the cement boards but worth every penny. You can cut it using a circular saw, use drill bits, and hole saws without destroying your tools like cement board and get even cuts without the cement falling out like the other boards. Use their Backer On screws, NOT drywall or deck screws. Half inch Hardibacker also mates up with 1/2 drywall utilizing 1 5/8 screws. This system has worked well for me on hundreds of tile jobs over the last decade.
- Q: A clerk told there there is a special hole saw for ceeeeeement board--but I never saw the same clerk again. I need to make five 2'' holes.
- Cement Hole Saw
- Q: I have a bare concrete/cement floor. After I installed Travertine on one section, it is almost 1/2 inch above the floor. Now, I want to continue to install the other section of the floor with laminate wood, but the floor is too low compared to the travertine floor. The question are: Can I put down a particle board over the concrete/cement floor, then a foam pad (moisture barrier), then laminate wood?Will the particle board absorb water then swell up?Or do I need to put down the moisture barrier foam first, then particle, then laminate wood?If I am not using the particle board, the laminate wood floor will be about 1/8 lower than the travertine floor. is it ok?
- Do NOT use particle board. There is no reason, as the laminate can be laid over the concrete with the proper padding. The particle board may swell and cause you issues down the road. Check the instructions on the flooring. Some require a plastic vapor barrier under them, while others only need the padding. 1/8 is not a big deal. The transition strip will bridge the difference. Be sure to check for peaks and valleys in the concrete, and fill in low spots. This will prevent the tongues on the planks from snapping off, leaving gaps in the floor. Allow the laminate to acclimate to the basement for a week or so before installing. Hope this helps. EDIT: You don't need anything under the flooring except vapor barrier or padding. They are designed to be able to be installed on a concrete base. Good luck.
- Q: Its all gonna get covered with mortar anyway when I put the tile on, right? So.... Is it NECESSARY to mortar the joints before hand or not?
- You want to make it as water tight as possible, so yes, it is necessary.
- Q: I am seeking to set porcelain tile on top of the hardibacker board once it is secured. If I have to remove the Barmaill plywood, does anyone have any suggestions on how to do this with ease? I assume its glued as well as screwed down.
- Make sure the plywood is waterproofed by applying a couple of coats of matte polyurethane to it....let it dry completely. Thin set contains water, and you do not want the plywood delaminating. Once the surface is preped, and the plywood is very solid...no flex allowed!, apply thin set and set backer board into it. I usually use drywall screws and screw it down all over the place to make sure the board is in perfect contact with the thinset and backer board. USE Latex fortified thin set or Epoxy thin set...will adhere very well to the sealed ply. NOw, you are ready to set tile...Have a ball. Good luck.
- Q: I'm pulling up the linoleum and replacing it with ceramic tile, 12x12. it's a small bathroom, on the 2nd floor.Under the linoleum is wood. Do i need to lie down cement board before I put the mortar mix down? Or will it be fine to put tiles on the mortar mix on the wood?
- Flooring plywood that is not laid down as tongue and grove (the whole floor) needs to be blocked at the edges. That means you will need to add solid framing lumber on all four sides of the patch. Securely attach them into the floor joists with nails. This is important because by cutting the plywood, you will have soft spots at the edges, which will cause your new tile to crack.
- Q: This board is sometimes refered to as tile board.
- Assume for a moment you'll have repair work to do on the wall behind the boardat least. It may be that installing new Green Board and Concrete Backer Board in the tub/shower area is a way to proceed no matter. Using a wide blade Paint/Putty knife, pry up one seam, or area of access and with effort, in a slicing/scraping motion, release the board from the glue and wall. Certainly some residue will remain on both,,,as well as some likely damage to the wall behind. Once the board is removed MY choice would be to replace the wall material (Drywall) with those I suggested. To attempt removal of the glue residue to achieve a smooth wall to paint or tile, will probably be more labor intensive than replacement. It may not strictly be within your budget range, but in the long term it will give you a much better job, that should last as long as the house. Not only that, but the removal offers you an opportunity to check any wiring/plumbing/ and/or insulation issues. Steven Wolf
- Q: the durock cement board is 1/2 inch and the drywall is 5/8 of an inch...So the shower wall is about an 1/8 of an inch recessed intothe wall. What can I do to fix the situation without redoing anymore walls. If I butt up the bullnose tile against the drywall about half of the tile's thickness sticks out...actually looks ok. I don't know if i should try to make a gradient from the drywall to the tile. There are also some gap between the two types of boards.....fill it with mortar?
- Yes you float it and float it back a bit on the durock. Use the same thinset mortar that you use for the tile. Never use a mastic as some hackers may suggest.Mastic is a water soluble product and will fail in a wet area such as a shower. What I do if the area permits is to put a pc of painters tape on the edge of the dry wall. Leave room for cement board tape. Then float the ares and pull off the painters tape and run the SBN over the durock tape edge and onto the dry wall just a bit to cover all and make a clean transition. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
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Fiber Cement Board with Both Sides Sanding
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 600 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 20000 pc/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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