• TDGC,TDGC2, TSGC,TSGC2 series Contact Voltage Regulator System 1
TDGC,TDGC2, TSGC,TSGC2 series Contact Voltage Regulator

TDGC,TDGC2, TSGC,TSGC2 series Contact Voltage Regulator

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Principle & Characteristics

The voltage regulator is in the structure of adjustable compensator, it wind a coil on the loop core,thee brush coincide with the rubbed surface of the coil closely under the spring pressure effect,rotate
the revolving shaft to drive the brush stand, and make the brush move along the coil surf ace to change the contact position of the brush, that means change the turns rate of primary and secondary coil, which
can make the output voltage stepless adjusted within the adjustment range. It has the advantage of no waveform distortion, small volume, less weight, high efficiency, simple and reliable operation, un for
long period and so on.


Scope of Application

It is widely used in industry (as chemical industry、metallurgy、instruments、meters、electromechanical manufacturing、light industry etc.)、scientific experiment、public facilities and domestic electric appliance to fulfill voltage regulating、temperature control、speed regulating、light adjusting、power control and so on, it is an ideal AC regulated power source.


Main Technical Parameter Size & Weight

Note: 1.TDGC、TSGC series products are same with the TDGC2j、TSGC2j series. 2.The said overall size and weight are for reference only.


Q: All the relays are replaced and all the fuses have been tested. The boo switch has also been replaced.where the hell do I begin?
Your brake lights not working is the reason it won't come out of park. Some of the newer vehicles have more than one fuse box. Mine has one under the back seat and one under the hood. The owners manual is the first place to start. Make sure ALL the fuses are good. You'll need a test light, check for power at your brake light switch, located on the brake pedal under the dash. Then check to see if you have power at the other end of the switch when the pedal is depressed. A lot of times, it is this switch that goes bad or just gets knocked around. If you have power on both sides of this switch, then you move on to the bitsy solenoid. I'd need more information to tell you where it is on your van, but try checking the brake light switch first. Good luck!
Q: i think its a fuse.? some guy told me that he was going to rear end me cause of it. recently i had a stereo put in that could have messed with the wiring. i also had an accident and my car was in the repair shop. . . ? what should i do should i take it to a dealership and they can check it or is it a simple fuse? i have a toyota camry 2006 with power windows.
It's not very likely that both bulbs would go out at the same time so check the fuse first, then the brake pedal switch, also check to see if any other components are malfunctioning as sometimes the brake fuse covers other items, although ti's not likely to be the bulbs it's worth checking them. But I would bet it's the brake pedal switch.
Q: I have a 400w/1000w dc to ac power inverter. Every time I power it on, the 40A fuse blows even with no load. I tried a direct connection to the battery and it still blows. If anyone has an idea how to fix this please tell me.400w continuous 1000w peakinput: 12vdcoutput: 110vac@60hz
This would mean it has a short on its input or output side of the circuit card. You could open it up and see if you see any burnt components, and replace those to see if it works.
Q: i have checked the fuses. they are good. can i just replace the bulbs or does the whole component need to be replaced?
Either the turn signal switch or turn signal relay. If the green light comes on when you put the lever in the turn position, check for burned out bulbs, front and rear. If the bulbs are OK, replace the flasher relay. Master tech 40 yrs.
Q: I know it's loose because if I wiggle it the amp turns off. how can I properly adjust this without injurying myself or ruining frying my amp. do I really have to remove the fuse or since it's only the ground can I just untighten the screw on the cap and then slide the wire back in and tighten it back on the ground? thanks.
Whenever doing any work on anything electrical, you should always unhook your battery (or in this case just remove the fuse) to avoid accidentally frying yourself / your electrical system in your vehicle. I'm not saying that you can't just loosen the screw, stick the wire in, and then tighten it, but that wouldn't be the proper thing. Whatever you decide, good luck! :-)
Q: I have a 1986 V6 2.8L Firebird that has some problems--the A/C doesn't work, the engine doesn't start with the key (previous owner fixed up a toggle switch, turn key to on and hit the switch to start the car. Yes it is the correct key for the car as well), and the cooling fans don't turn on when needed (another previous-owner toggle switch solution). I was told to check the fuses/relays for the components that don't work, but the only fuse box I can find, in the dashboard, doesn't have all the fuses that I'm looking for. Is there another fuse box under the hood that I'm just dumb with and can't find? Some other problem? Serious answers only please--no scrap it or buy another car responses. Thanks for any help :)
No the only fuse box is under dash on driver's side. There are some relays on the driver side of firewall under hood but thats for like fuel pump and what not. The cooling fan uses a temp switch in the intake or head to turn fan on at X temp. They burn out and people just straight wire or add a toggel to turn on and off The ign. switch goes bad and rather than replace it, some will use a toggel. It's not the fuses thats bad on yours. Its the OEM switchs and the other owner was too cheap to fix it the right way
Q: Hi , I want to know what are the various components which needs to be fitted for putting AC in my non-AC Maruti 800? I want to make sure the mechanic doesn't take me for a ride.
Wow. That's a lot of work and parts. Start with the compressor, which is expensive for an average car, plus condenser, high and low pressure valves, hoses, lines, sensors, expansion valve, and the relay system which will need to be wired into your existing fuse system, which may have to be replaced as well. He'll have to use new parts because old parts from junk cars will have dry rot and corrosion, plus it's not good for AC systems to sit for long periods with no pressure or oil inside.
Q: i did something really stupid and connected my car battery the opposite way it should be (positive clamp to negative terminal and negative clamp to positive terminal; a few sparks flew). i tried to start the car but nothing happened when i realized what i did wrong i put the battery in the right way and the car started fine. i heard that when you connect the battery the wrong way it reverses polarity or something like that and that the battery cannot be used and that it messes up the alternator too.so that raises a couple question1) do i need a new alternator?2) even though the battery starts the car is it no good?3) will the battery end up exploding or malfunctioning because of the reversed polarity?
1 if it still works don't replace it, if you still doubt it have it bench tested at an auto part store 2 have the battery load tested just to be sure it is still gonna hold a charge. 3 if it was gonna explode it would have done it when you first tried starting it. also you will want to watch out for the car acting funny because it could have messed the cars internal computer up. while its doubtful just be extra observant for a week or so for things like running rough and erratic gages among other things
Q: After putting in a new stereo, my instrument panel lights will not come on. All the maintenance lights will turn on upon starting the car, but once started, I cannot see the speedometer or any of that stuff. The lights for the heat/AC knobs won't illuminate either. The 12volt does light up, as does the stock clock and the new stereo. I am not sure if there is a fuse for this, I looked through the manual and found nothing to indicate that there would be. I have checked the dimmer dial to make sure it's all the way on. Nothing was unplugged other than the stereo components so I'm not sure what happened. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
the maintenance required gentle is reset at each provider and is derived on whilst the elapsed mileage from the final provider is approximately 7500 miles. At ninety,000 you will possibly desire to have had the substantial provider' witht the finished 'song-up featuring the spark plugs, valve adjustment, filters and fluid ameliorations. At ninety seven,500 the required provider is a tire rotation and oil and clear out exchange plus the standard maintenance inspections of the brakes, suspension, lights platforms and fluid tiers. you may reset the maintenance gentle by way of pushing the top of your ignition key into the slot by way of the eco-friendly-yellow-purple indicator. pushing the biggest in will turn the indicator back to eco-friendly and reset it for 7500 miles from whilst the provider is carried out. desire that facilitates
Q: I accidentally switched-on my computer from US that is set to 115 Volts. Power at home is 220 Volts. What could be the components that were damaged inside the power supply?
If this is a desktop power supply as laptop supplies should be auto-detecting/switching, it would probably be cheaper and less hassle to just replace the supply being that you can pick one up for $20-$60 average depending on brand/wattage. Switching power supplies can be a pain to work on and then trying to find those hard-to-find transistors is no fun

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