TDGC,TDGC2, TSGC,TSGC2 series Contact Voltage Regulator

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Principle & Characteristics

The voltage regulator is in the structure of adjustable compensator, it wind a coil on the loop core,thee brush coincide with the rubbed surface of the coil closely under the spring pressure effect,rotate
the revolving shaft to drive the brush stand, and make the brush move along the coil surf ace to change the contact position of the brush, that means change the turns rate of primary and secondary coil, which
can make the output voltage stepless adjusted within the adjustment range. It has the advantage of no waveform distortion, small volume, less weight, high efficiency, simple and reliable operation, un for
long period and so on.

Scope of Application

It is widely used in industry (as chemical industry、metallurgy、instruments、meters、electromechanical manufacturing、light industry etc.)、scientific experiment、public facilities and domestic electric appliance to fulfill voltage regulating、temperature control、speed regulating、light adjusting、power control and so on, it is an ideal AC regulated power source.

Main Technical Parameter Size & Weight

Note: 1.TDGC、TSGC series products are same with the TDGC2j、TSGC2j series. 2.The said overall size and weight are for reference only.

Q:I have a Rover 420 GSI with an electrical problem. Battery drains over about 40 hours. Replaced it with a new battery. The alternator has also been tested. There is a 4A current being drawn all the time from the battery, when the car is turned off (overnight). I have tried removing all the fueses I can find but nothing makes it drop. I am no great electrical expert. owever, Ive tried removing the Alternator and fan out of line. As it wears down the battery the battery light starts indicating on the dashboard. I am guessing there is a relay or something held open. Is there some easy way of testing them? Thanks.: Normally I would suspect a boot or interior light being left on but if you have removed all the fuses then this is unlikely. How do you know it is 4A drain? Have you measured it with ammeter? 4A is quite a drain and looks like an unfused route. This suggests any off: A slight short to earth via a poor 'connection' between battery and fusebox. Alternator. Starter solenoid. This is a possibility. Is it an automatic? If so then park it id D or R and see if the drain stops. This would indicate draining via the start solenoid.

Q:I remove the negative battery wire, put my multimeter inline with the battery and said wire, and place it on DCV 20 and see if there is a draw with all the lights and components turned off. Then start removing fuses until the draw drops?Additional Details98 ford mustang v6 3.8L manual trans: I would use the meter in current mode, not voltage. Look for the DCA range. You might have to switch the positive lead to another port for testing current depending on the range. Like you said, hook the meter up in series with a battery terminal and start pulling fuses until the current draw suddenly drops. Then you know which circuit to investigate.

Q:Alright so my setup is a sony xm-zr1852 1000w amp and 2 12 Dual 1100w subs. One day i was driving along and started to smell a burning scent then looked back and my trunk was smoking, shortly after that the subs stopped bumping. I pull over open the trunk and there is smoke coming off the subs. I check the two 30amp fuses in my amp and they are both melted. I replaced the fuses and now the amp is in protect mode and still no bump.What's the problem?: you probably blew your subs, or fried the amp

Q:A friend of mine accidentally bridged two wires, one with juice, one grounded, that ran to the glove compartment on my '92 deville. I can't tell what they went to, as my glove compartment is gone, just hanging wires. The wires in question were purple and black, and the three options for what they may have been are the compartment lights, the gas door opener, or the trunk latch opener.When he bridged the two wires, I (sitting in the drivers seat) heard a loud pop that came from in front of me, underneath the steering wheel somewhere, and when I turned on the car, my start-up ding noises were notably sharper, and simultaneously weaker, like something had been blown. The radio display lights were inoperable, and while I did get static upon turning on the radio, my antenna would no longer extend. Do these things share a common circuit, and would short-circuiting something from the glove compartment cause me to blow a fuse, or is it possible that all of these components are permanently well blown?: fuses are meant stop anything thats powered to be blown, check all your fuses and i'm betting a number 15 is blown.

Q:I had my brother wash my car and he put a hose to the engine compartment and by the time i saw him he had wet everything under the hood. I turned the car on and it started/ran just fine, the display was on but all went dark after about 30 seconds or so. Its been 3 days and still dark. What do i do? It has a 5.7 liter 350 V8, TBI.: definitely, definite, it may bring about failure of the Catalytic Converter. You O2 sensor detects whether finished combustion has took place. with out it, the laptop will deliver extra gasoline than needed and which will overwork your catalytic converter. the main important element you will see with a bad O2 sensor is detrimental gasoline financial gadget.

Q:3amp fuse keeps blowing: You could have a small scratch in the paint inside the microwave oven cavity. The paint is a protective covering to the metal which makes up the microwave and if the paint is chipped, even a tiny one, the microwaves react with the metal to some degree. If the scratch is large enough you will get sparks, but if it is small it may only blow fuses.

Q:I have 1999 Honda Accord. Recently, the buttons on the Climate control panel stopped working. The round knobs controlling air flow into the car and the temperature are fine. It is just that I cannot control where air gets directed via those buttons. At the same time, the clock is not illuminated (the clock is fine). Would like to find out if there is a fuse or an electrical component controlling both (control panel and the clock light) has gone bad? if yes, where can I find it? thanksrajesh: check fuse #3 drivers side under-dash fuse/relay box. check fuse #13 pass side under-dash fuse/relay box. might need to go to a shop as there is a climate control unit, air mix control motor and a mode control motor for this vehicle. there is no vacuum to this unit if it is automatic temp system.

Q:After putting in a new stereo, my instrument panel lights will not come on. All the maintenance lights will turn on upon starting the car, but once started, I cannot see the speedometer or any of that stuff. The lights for the heat/AC knobs won't illuminate either. The 12volt does light up, as does the stock clock and the new stereo. I am not sure if there is a fuse for this, I looked through the manual and found nothing to indicate that there would be. I have checked the dimmer dial to make sure it's all the way on. Nothing was unplugged other than the stereo components so I'm not sure what happened. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.: the maintenance required gentle is reset at each provider and is derived on whilst the elapsed mileage from the final provider is approximately 7500 miles. At ninety,000 you will possibly desire to have had the substantial provider' witht the finished 'song-up featuring the spark plugs, valve adjustment, filters and fluid ameliorations. At ninety seven,500 the required provider is a tire rotation and oil and clear out exchange plus the standard maintenance inspections of the brakes, suspension, lights platforms and fluid tiers. you may reset the maintenance gentle by way of pushing the top of your ignition key into the slot by way of the eco-friendly-yellow-purple indicator. pushing the biggest in will turn the indicator back to eco-friendly and reset it for 7500 miles from whilst the provider is carried out. desire that facilitates

Q:I drive a '97 Dodge Dakota. I've had it for 3yrs now. When I first got it from my G-pa,the headlights were acting up at that time which was like October/November '06. Got a new switch and that did the trick. Well apparently not because the same problem came right back. And when the switch was pulled out we flipped it over to see if there was a problem underneath it. Well you could clearly see one of the terminals was fried. So again we replaced the switch. Problem solved. WRONG. The same problem has come back to haunt me now,2yrs later. Now as before,the headlights would come on and as I drove they would flicker on and off,though if the high beams were switched on or held on,I would have no problems. Now they don't flicker on and off,I pull the switch and they don't even come on. I can hold in the high beam switch and they stay. There is the scoop. Any tips/help would be greatly appreciated.: You definatly have a bad circuit. The fried switches are odd though. Headlights are among the few systems on a vehicle that are not fused and therefore components are made to last. They often do have a device called a fusible link though. It can be hard to find too. I recommend getting a Haynes and/or Chilton's manual for your specific car. That will tell you what components are in the circuit. Then trace the circuit and test it at various points with a volt/ohm meter. Before too long, you will zero in on the location of the problem and your solution will be easier to deduce. Good luck and have fun!

Q:E.C.M. stands for electronic control modal: Don't stick wires

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