• Stainless Steel Water Pump Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump System 1
  • Stainless Steel Water Pump Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump System 2
  • Stainless Steel Water Pump Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump System 3
  • Stainless Steel Water Pump Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump System 4
Stainless Steel Water Pump Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump

Stainless Steel Water Pump Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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 Stainless Steel Water Pump Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump


Application

This series pump is widely used for sewage treatment of city construction discharge for architecture projects, hotel, mine, pond, dyeing and printing, paper making and textile industries.

It is the ideal tool for transportation of sludge, slurry, living sewage, feces and stale wastes, solid grains fiber, paper chips, sandy soil etc.



Model Description


100WQ 50-30-5
100: Drain aperture (mm)
WQ: Submersible sewage pump

50: Capacity (m3/hr)
30: Head (m)
5: Power (kW)

Operations Conditions


1. The medium temperature should not be over 60oC, the density 1200Kg/m3, and the pH value within 5-9.
2. During running, the pump must not be lower than the permitted lowest liquid level.
3. Rated voltage 380 V, rated frequency 50 Hz. The motor can run successfully, only under the condition the deviations of both rated voltage and frequency are not over ± 5%.
4. The maximum diameter of the solid grain going through the pump has not to be larger than 50% of that of the pump outlet.


Picture

 Stainless Steel Water Pump Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump

Why choose us

 High Quality
1.Exported to 58 Countries
2. More than 90% customers make payment before meeting us!
3. Reorder rate up to 80%
4. Never sell any renewed pumps
5. Focus on middle and high-end market,we never seize market by using inferior material

FAQ

1. How to get our quotation in time, pls answer following questions:
    1)What liquid do you transfer?oil ,food or corrosive chemical liquid,with solid particle or not and so on 
    2) What's the flow or capcity (m3/h, L/m)? 
    3) What's the discharge head (m, feet, Mpa, bar )
     If you do not have any request, we will do as our normal standard.
  4) Contact us by under  business card information
2.OEM: Ok 
3. MOQ: 1set
4. Package: Standard export wooden case(also according to your requirements)
5. Shipping ways: By sea, By air, By express
6. Lead time: 3-15days
7. Warranty Period: One year, except spare parts 

 



Q: We have a private well with a 40 year old water pump that is rusting away, and sounds like a truck. It's a double jet well pump sitting on a tank, with a second tank to one side that it's also connected to (with a thick pipe). I don't quite understand why there are two tanks (there's a third which is obviously the hot water). I'm guessing one of these is to hold water, and the other to provide air pressure? In any case, the pump runs OK, it doesn't leak, and provides plenty of pressure. It is just unbelievably loud. I've been told that replacing the bearings might take care of this problem, but seeing how the tank the pump rests upon (with a thin tube connecting it to the pump) is rotting away, and the system is older than I am, should I just replace the whole thing?
It sounds like you have two pressure tanks. I am going to guess that the one under your pump probably went out and instead of taking it out and re-plumbing everything they just spliced in a new tank. You can get a re-build kit for most pumps but it sound like your pump is pretty old and probably being held together with faith and rust and taking it apart might cause more problems. What I would do is price out what the re-build cost and what labor might be against what a new system might be. If you decide to go with a new system I would suggest looking into getting a submersible pump, using the same tank but making sure it is in a good location and plumbed with a union. when your pressure tank finally goes out it is going to weigh a ton and trying to move it around plumbing can be difficult. good luck and happy holidays.
Q: My friends car is a 1997 jeep wrangler. The belt broke and she took it in to get it replaced and they told her metal from the pully that broke got into the water pumpand they have to replace that to? WTF? it makes a squealing noise and they want to charge her another 300 for that! we just don't understand how that could be if the pump isn't even leaking?
The only way to get metal into the water pump is if the bearing when bad. That was the cause of the belt failure. The water pump needs to be replaced. The pulley is outside of the housing itself. If it had broken, the pieces would have fallen onto the ground not gotten inside the pump.
Q: water pump
Flow? Head? suction pressure? Type of pump if that matters to you? You'll get better suggestions if you provide as much information as is relevant.
Q: i want to hook a pressure booster pump to a well pump so i can have some pressure out of the well, is this doable?thanks!
If you connect two pumps in series and not parallel the pressure will increase but you need to have them connected so if the well stops running the other does also.
Q: I think its the water pump, I fill the coolant with water everyday and it is empty once I make it to my destination.
I know this isn't exactly what you asked but if you have the v6 engine changing the water pump on this car is a very easy job. There is a video on youtube that shows you exactly how to do it, just search water pump gm 3.1. Just be sure to get all of the old gasket off and use rtv on the new gasket. You could probably change it yourself for less than $50 and 1 hour if you can do basic car maintenance.
Q: Water pump located on the ground floor of our 10 story building is leaking and therefore it is constantly running and spilling water into the parking lot. Therefore, a plumber shut the water pump off and opened a bypass valve.After we shut off water pump all units still have good water pressure so why do we need to replace water pump?When water pump is on the incoming city water gauge reads 60psi and the gauge measuring the water shooting up into the building reads 80psi. Now both gauges read zero.How can water coming from the city at 60psi travel all the way to the 10th floor without a boost? I do not understand what is happening.
the pump may have been required before the city up graded their water system. and now it may not be required. but if it were me ? i would replace the pump . Then continue to use the bypass. the reason is , because one day for various reasons the public water pressure could suddenly drop. And then you will and emergency. or at least buy the pump and store it .. So if this ever happens you just need to pay to have it installed. This way you are prepared for what will prob happen someday. but 10 stories ! i am with you . i would think you need a pump to do that.
Q: My old pump burned up so i recently replaced it (with a refurbished pump) I have new pipe to the pump, new tank. my pump is a 1/2 hp 230v pump, I also replaced the control box. With my pump plugged in and the water coming straight out of the pipe bypassing the tank when I turn the power on I will get water for a minute or so then I won't get water for a minute. This will keep happening. I have checked the switch and when I quit getting water there is still power going to the pump. any suggestions or ideas? bad wiring or bad pump?...I know that there is water in thew well, the pump is located at 100 ft of a 115 ft well and i can see the water level about 10 ft underground.
A good pump would pump water continuously without being hooked to the tank. You say the power is still going to the pump when it quits but you didn't say if it is getting the proper voltage and you didn't say if the pump is still running but just not pumping. If it's still running then try raising the pump some. If it's not running then I'd suspect the thermal protector switch so you'd need a new pump. Are you sure there's a full 230V going to the pump? Sometimes ants like to get in the electrical pressure switch and get in between one or more of the contacts.
Q: I have a Honda Accord, and last week I replaced the Radiotor, due to a leak. This week the Water pump broke, it was making a ver loud noise and major leak, when I opened the rad, basically all the fluid was drained.Do you think the two are related? or do you think when the Rad was replaced it was not done properly which caused the water pump to break?Thanks.
The only way they are related is that they both have coolant circulating through them...frankly it is unlikely the replaced radiator had anything to do with it, but if you found the leaking radiator when the steam started curling up from under your hood, then it is possible that gave the water pump that extra reason to fail.. bable really.
Q: I am leaking antifreeze, but only when the car is sitting after it has been running for a while, and its quite frustrating..it's coming around where the hoses are, I just got the thermostat/thermostat housing replaced, and also the heater hose and it seems to be coming from the same general area AS those...My car doesn't leak all the time it seems, so I'm not sure what this could mean. It has not over heated, my ac isn't also working at all.I have taken it back to the mechanic two times in the last 2 days and they cannot determine it's having a leak or not..which is quite ridiculous!! It seems to them that they think I'm crazy or something, I just don't like to see antifreeze underneath my car, I mean who does? Does this sound like a water pump? Where exactly is the waterpump located?
i would say its where you had ur stuff replaced before. They might not have the clamp on hosestight enough. Or the housing isnt tightened enough and or they overfilled especially with them not tightening it all up. Seen it happen alot. And it happens because they dont recheck for any leaks after the work is dne and make sure everything is all nice and tidey before they give it back to customer. If it was ur pump u would overheat and not have enough pressure to leak in any hoses or housings but only ur pump weep holes is where it would leak...
Q: just pulled my well pipe up and installed a new foot valve will i have to fill the pipes back up with water before i can get it to pump
How To Prime A Pump: (Need: Gallon jug of drinking water, a roll of teflon tape, and an adjustable wrench or a pipe wrench.) A. Unplug pump (or cut OFF breaker box at pump, if one). B. Unscrew (counter-clockwise) the largest (3/4) plug on top of pump head. C. Wrap 2-3 flat turns (clockwise only) of teflon tape on threads of plug. D. Pour water into plug hole until full, and quickly start threads of plug by hand. E. Plug in or turn on pump, and finger-tighten plug (air and water will bubble out around threads as you do so) until pump picks up prime. Then wrench-tighten plug when it does. Repeat all steps, if necessary, until you have full water pressure and pump cuts off on its own. Good Luck!

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