Serial centrifugal horizontal split case electric water pumps
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 200 set/month
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Specification
Feature
The mining slurry pump is horizontal, single suction, single-stage, cantilever, double casing centrifugal slurry pumps. The discharge direction can be set at any one of 8 directions, and the angle interval of the 8 choices is 45°. The shaft seal has three modes which are packing seal, expeller seal and mechanical seal.
Structure Type
S type large horizontal axial pump is horizontal installation.The inlet and the outlet are under
the shaft centerline.The pump is horizontal, split casing.And it is not necessary to disassemble
the inlet and outlet pipes when overhauling. The shaft sealing can be the mechanical sealing
and the soft packing sealing .
Application
widely used for water plant, irrigation, drainage pumping station, power station, water circulation of air conditioning,
industrial water supply system, fire system and shipping industry as well as the general purpose in the oil refining industry.
Type and definition
150YQS-78A
150-intake diameter(mm)
YQS- Yongquan double-suction horizontal centrifugal pump
78- Lift(m)
A- The impeller diameter cut for the first time
- Q: My Toyota 2006 Sienna has 80K miles on it and I asked the dealer to inspect the vehicle. He suggested that i replace Timing Belt, Water Pump, Drive Belt and Trans Pan Gasket. The cost of the repair comes to $1300 ($460 for Timing Belt, $350 for Water Pump, $140 for Drive Belt $370 for Pan Gasket).I'm caught by surprise with the price quoted and things to be replaced. Is the price quoted reasonable? Are these replacement common for Sienna vehicle with 80K miles? I don't know what could possibly go wrong if these are not changed for couple of months. I have an extended warranty on the vehicle for 100K miles will any of the above get covered under warranty?Any suggestions or advice is highly appreciated/
- For the best answers, search on this site https://shorturl.im/awH9s Um that doesn't seem to bad to you might get it down 450 or 500 if you went to an independent shop but for a dealer 650 is not that bad plus if you ever had to do this job you would understand why it costs so much there is no part of it that doesn't sux. That's why I work on airplanes now better money and no complaints about labor cost.
- Q: If the water pump does not get water to pump, will it be burnt out? If so, then can it be fixed? And if it doesnt get water to pump, what exactly happens to it?
- Anything can be fixed. The question is: is it cheaper to repair or replace the water pump? Keep in mind that water through a pump cools it. Without this water, the pump will overheat and eventually fail.
- Q: My water stopped working and my tank emptied. I replaced the pressure switch and the gauge. It still didn't work. The well is about 110'. I pulled the pump and replaced it (1/2 HP, 10 gpm, 2-wire). It still doesn't work. The old pump was 15 years old. The one before only lasted 7 years. The water has a lot of sediment. I have never done this before, but it seemed straightforward enough. The wires on the pump were not differentiated in any way (same color). Could I have put the wires together incorrectly? Could I have put the switch in wrong? It doesn't click on when the breaker is turned on. What else could be wrong? Could the breaker be bad? It wasn't kicked out.
- A two wire pump usually has a 120 volt motor. The neutral wire from the motor goes to the neutral wire at the disconnect switch. The other wire from the motor goes to one terminal screw of the pressure switch. The disconnect switch hot wire goes to the terminal screw right next to the first one. ( either the two terminals on the left or the two on the right. ) Sometimes people will switch the neutral wire as well. If the voltage is good, pressure switch contacts are clean - like no bugs having been smashed or caught up in between, then you might expect a break in the wire or the wire splice at the motor wire connection. If your old pump burned out you may have needed new wire also. Sometimes the wire will burn apart inside the insulation and make a bubble. If your old wire was in good shape, or you replaced it, you should have used a submersible splice to connect to the motor wires. Crimp on wire connectors should be crimped tight. Every now and then I find one that didn't get crimped on one side. Rubber tape followed by plastic tape over that splice is good. Some people like the plastic tubes with compression ends for a splice covering.
- Q: I know that the water pump is belt driven, so it would be easy to connect it to my bicycle. What I am wondering is if I can pedal fast enough to make it work. Does anyone know how fast I would need to pedal to operate the pump?
- Pretty fast. Engines operate at 600-6000 rpm and the pump pulley is a little smaller than the drive pulley, so it is spinning even faster. That said, 600 rpm is plenty fast enough. You can attain that easily by applying pulley to rear tire tread, raising tire off ground and pedaling. To apply bike chain to pulley would give a disappointing water flow.
- Q: Ok, I took my '93 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0L in to get the serpentine belt replaced, as the old one had snapped. They told me that the water pump had locked up and that's what made the belt break. The thing is, I had to get the radiator and water pump replaced this past summer and I am wondering what might've made my water pump lock up since it is new. The Jeep has a lot of miles and I'm slowly having to fix a lot of things, so I'm trying to be sure that I don't fix the pump just to find another problem. Also, the repair place told me the water pump looks brand new, so I know that it was definitely replaced, but should I contact the place the fixed the pump and radiator and see if there's some sort of warranty on the pump?
- Yes, by all means, see if there was a warranty with that water pump. Find out if it was a genuine Jeep water pump or an aftermarket (made by another company). If it was an aftermarket brand, it may have a one year warranty if it was a good one. Ask the mechanic who did it. He might still have the paperwork. Also ask him if he warranties his work. He might have put in a rebuilt or remanufactured pump. They often come with 1 year, 12,000 mile warranties like the better aftermarket ones. Did you save your receipt? You may need it for the warranty.
- Q: I want to run 1 HP, 220 v, single phase water pump on solar panels without using any batteries. what do I need to do so amp; how do I wire it?
- Hey R, if you have an existing pump you are trying to run that is designed for 220 AC, I would suggest going with the battery and inverter, but either way it will take about 1200 watts of solar. With no battery, the panels need to provide for the surge power to start up the pump, so now you're looking at at least 2000 watts of panel. Then as Caoedhen pointed out, one cloud goes by, it shuts down then starts again, this is not good for pump longevity, so you'll be spending more on replacement parts too. If you don't have the pump yet, and you want to go solar, I would use a slow DC pump, they make them strictly for solar panel operation, no batteries or special controllers. Windy Dankoff probably is the expert, do a google search for DC slow pumps, or look for Windy's website. Then you can get by with a lot less panel, and a better pump for them, plus no batteries. Take care, Rudydoo
- Q: What is the difference between a sewage pump and a clean water pump? Why can't sewage be pumped with clean water?
- In short, the main difference between clean water pump and sewage pump: impeller and runner design, as well as other parts of the configuration are very different.1., in order to prevent clogging of sewage pump, the main design of large flow channel, so naturally lead to relatively low efficiency, so the head is generally not high. Clear water pump flow smaller, smaller clearance, the head is relatively high.2. in order to prevent the wound, water pump impeller design is more simple but not ring pump, equipped with tips, cloth and other debris can be crushed after the pump, and the impeller water pump is relatively complex, but the efficiency will be significantly higher than the former.3., in order to prevent wear and corrosion, sewage pumps generally use better wear resistance, corrosion resistance, mechanical seal and O ring as the seal of water pumps, and clean water pump without strict consideration.To sum up, we can get a very good understanding of why not water pump sewage problems -- characteristics of channel and the impeller and other key design, resulting in water pump for sewage situation is likely to occur, blocking, winding, wear and corrosion occurs, resulting in damage to pump or scrapped, so water pump can not be used sewage.
- Q: Bought a new water pump for my turtle tank can't get it to work
- hi, I advise you drain the pond/inventory tank and positioned a trough hull installation to allow you to hook up a valve for prompt draining. I used a a million one on my 3 hundred gallon inventory tank and it will drain in below 5 min. otherwise a submersible sump pump is the suited type to get they have a exhibit on the backside the place the %. up is to evade plugging you are able to could sparkling the prefilter exhibit periodically. You hook up a backyard hose and drop it in.
- Q: Okay, the fan has the clutch unit on the front with the large nut attaching it to the water pump. Then 4 screws attach the pulley to the water pump as well. What's the best way to immobilize pulley/pump so I can get the fan blade clutch nut unscrewed? Can't hold onto the fan or clutch unit since it simply spins. Can't realy seem to hold onto the pulley either as it prefers to spin? Any suggested best ways?
- can usually get 32mm wrench and hit it with hammer in opposite direction Has backwards threads If not get thick rag and real long big screwdriver and carefully pry against pully so it doesnt turn and hit wrench with hammer too loosen Or buy special bmw tools
- Q: We have a low area in our back yard. The previous owner had a pump installed. The flow switch is in the ground at the lowest point of the yard. The actual pump is 2 feet or so, higher up. We have not had to use it much. But last week, when we have the big storm, it stopped working. It some how worked again, but pumping a lot slower, then it stop pumping again. With this pump, I had to add water to get it primed. The last time I try to add water, the water drains instantly. Any one how what could be wrong with it? It was suggest a seal was broken. Thanks for your help.
- If you say that the pump is 2 feet higher you must have a hose onthe suction side of the pump it probably has a foot valve on the end of the hose it must be hung open thats why when you try to prime the the the water flows thru check to see if there is any debris holding the check valve open if there is clean it out close the valve prime with water and try to pump
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Serial centrifugal horizontal split case electric water pumps
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 200 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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