Rising Stem Solid Wedge Gate Valves Made of Ductile Iron
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 unit/month
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Non-rising resilient seated gate valves solve the problem in general gate valves such as leakage, rusting etc. and saves installation space. It is used widely in tap water industry, sewage treatment, shipping construction, petroleum, chemicals, food, pharmacy, textile, electric power, metallurgy and energy system's pipeline to adjust and shut off fluids.
l Replaceable O-ring
l Low torque operation
l Rubber encapsulated wedge
l Clockwise closing direction
l Fusion bonded epoxy coated inside and outside
Specification
Body materials: Ductile Iron/Metal
Design standard: DIN3352 F5/F4, according to requirements
Design pressure: PN10/PN16/PN25
Size: DN80mm-DN2000
Connect type: Flanged gate valve
Seal type: Resilient seated gate valve, EPDM+ Ductile Iron
Coating:
Fusion bonded epoxy coated both on the interior as well as the exterior surfaces of the valve, flange surfaces are also fully epoxy coated, blue color.
Application
Potable water, neutral liquids, irrigation, heating and chilled water, fire systems etc, in either above ground or buried service applications and requires minimal maintenance
Feature
This Ductile Iron Resilient Seated Gate Valve is fully compliant to DIN3352 F4. We have light weight type, heavy weight type and even middle weight type for your reference, and these three options design construction of ductile iron will offer a robust and durable extended life performance.
1- Bolted bonnet, full bore: used for larger valves and higher pressure applications.
2- Stem sealed with O-rings: realize zero leakage, could be replace under full pressure.
3- Rubber encapsulated wedge: excellent elastic memory, ensure sealing effect.
4- Blue fusion boned epoxy coated inside and outside: suitable for portable water.
5- Working pressure from -1 to +16 and working temperature from -10 to +80°C
Durable
This valve is suitable for use in a wide range of applications including potable water, neutral liquids, irrigation, heating and chilled water, fire systems etc, in either above ground or buried service applications and requires minimal maintenance. This Resilient Seated Gate Valves have a rated working pressure of 16 Bar. The valves seal 100% leak tight. The waterway is clear, unobstructed and free from pockets. Resilient seated gate valves are fusion bonded epoxy coated both on the interior as well as the exterior surfaces of the valve, flange surfaces are also fully epoxy coated.
Advantages
1- OEM Factory : Professional manufacturer, clients from whole world.
2- High Quality, Competitive Price: Custom is accepted.
3- Complete Service: Long service Life, Fast delivery, Multilingual services.
4- Certificates: ISO9001, CE, NSF, TS, WRAS.
5- Low MOQ: Ready for providing the sample and producing some small orders.
FAQ
Q: Do you produce valves with PN40?
A: Yes, but for PN40, we suggest materials of metal, like cast steel, stainless steel…etc. We could also produce ductile iron valves with PN40.
Q: Are you manufacturer or trading company? Which kind of valves do you supply?
A: We are a professional manufacturer of butterfly valves, check valve, non-return valves, gate valves, Y-strainer and so on.
Q: Will you do inspection before shipment? Whether Third Party Inspection is available?
A: We have a professional engineer team, so we can offer you the most professional technical support. All valves are tested twice before and after hammer pin to ensure its perfect sealing property and to make sure every valve is ok before ex-factory. TPI is ok but the clients should bear all fees.
Q: What kind of package do you use for these valves?
A: Valves from DN80-DN1400 will be packed in wooden boxes, but valves above DN1400 will be in wooden pallets. If you need wooden boxes for above DN1400, the price may be more expensive.
- Q: I recently converted my furnace from l.p. gas to natural gas. It's been maybe two weeks of me troubleshooting and replacing. I have a new gas valve and transformer in the furnace. There is 24v running to the valve and it clicks to open but no gas comes out. I have exhausted all my options with the mechanical/electrical components on the furnace. I have bled the valve to be sure that there was gas making it to the inlet side. Does anyone have an idea as to why the valve stopped opening once I converted it over?
- I don't know if this will help without seeing your furnace but this is similar to what happened when I light ours in the fall.Where the pilot light is if you have one there is a wire sensor and that gets dirty sometimes and needs cleaned at the tip by the pilot,on ours it connects to the gas valve and signals it to open.Good luck to you hope this helps,it also could be a bad valve.
- Q: my EGR valve has gone on my Vauxhall Vectra 2.0 DI LS, 1998, 5 DOOR HATCHBACK, so i am getting a new one next week, what i want to know is, is it an easy job to replace them if so how do i do it? or is it better just to let a garage do the job?
- The EGR on this model is indeed vacuum operated. The diaphragm rarely fails to be fair but that particular engine suffers with vacuum leaks. This is something that needs checking first. Also, before buying one, try sucking on the little vacuum connection going into the unit first. You should feel resistance as the plunger is sucked up against spring pressure. If no resistance is met, the diaphragm is gone and it needs replacing. If you can feel the plunger lifting, there is nothing wrong with it. You can remove it to make it easier. Push the plunger in by hand and put your finger over the vacuum connection; the plunger should stay where it is until you take your finger off. (It's hidden under the plastic cover on the top of the engine (3 Torx bolts) and is easy to access.) The EGR valve unfortunately comes with the inlet manifold (expensive) which would mean removing injector pipes etc. if you fit it all. It is, however, very easy to replace if you just remove the 2 bolts holding it into the inlet manifold. They are female Torx but an 8mm 6 point socket will work too. Any other questions on this job, just ask or email.
- Q: I mean dropping the valve seat. And some mechanic told me that it dropped when the catalytic converter got clogged and it hurt the engine. But the most I've heard is that if I want to avoid this from happening I should be running the engine a bit colder because the valves weren't made with the right specs and after a 100,000 miles they become a bit loose and when the engine gets to the normal temperature or just a bit above, the valve seats would drop. Does ANYONE KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THIS?
- If the valve has dropped you will hear a ticking nose when the engine is running. It the valve hitting the piston. This need to be fixed ASAP, With a stuck valve you will experance back firing or lots of smoke could out of the tall pipe especially on acceleration. Either way if you are trying to keep your car I would have the problem correctly diagnosed and this will likely means you will need a top end rebuild. These little 1.9L ford engines were pretty tough but after XX amount of miles and so many years it time for some internal engine work.
- Q: I think I have a bad valve steam seals because when I start the car white-grayish smoke comes out of the back of the car. When let sit for 2 or more hours start car and smoke comes out everytime. Will a valve adjusment fix the problem? Thanks
- Well, it can only get from bad to worse, costing double as much everytime. For now if you leave it, you will need to top up your engine oil very often, and your fuel consumption will become higher as engine friction is higher and ignition sealing is poor (high blowby gases). This means also lower efficiency of the vehicle. If the weather is hot, the engine will have a higher probability of overheating after operating for long periods of time (say 3 hours or so).... but the real danger is if you keep it this way, your crankshaft and connecting rod bearings will start to scuff little by little, which might cost you a very heavy engine overhaul. My advice: send it to a technician now, as it will require special tooling to tighten the cylinder head, remove/install valve springs, and maybe some shim calibration if it is an old model. Valves must also be inspected, and their guides as may have worn out. Give to specialist, I say, unless you have the patience and spirit to experiment.
- Q: Was wondering if there is something I could purchase to put into a car so that it will become a 24 valve????
- Time to drop out of your software then. You did no longer even attempt - you in basic terms decrease and paste an common quiz devoid of even inclusive of the linked diagrams, and anticipate us to unravel it. Why could we do this? you haven't any longer even attempted. i do no longer want you getting close to a motor vehicle in any technical means in any admire in case you could no longer answer those questions.
- Q: Beneath my kitchen sink are two shut off valves for the water; one for hot, one for cold. The hot water valve has never successfully stopped all water flow, so we've always resorted to shutting off the main line. Well, now that's not working. We shut off the main water line to the house, all water everywhere is non-functioning except for the hot water pipe beneath my sink. It's now causing the faucet to constantly stream water, so it's something we have to resolve ASAP. I'd like to avoid calling a plumber, but my knowledge in such areas is very limited. Can anyone give me any decent suggestions? For the record, I did take apart the faucet fixture just in case, thoroughly cleaned it, and replaced all of the washers I had access to; but we only just bought the faucet in September, so I can't see a worn washer as being the problem. I also tried to tighten the nut behind the handle on the valve. It didn't effect the dripping.
- Leaky Water Valve
- Q: I need an angle valve for my sink buts its a bit of an odd size. I have copper tubing at 1/2 i need a valve preferably compression that can feed to a water supply that is 1/2 Pipe thread.Included images of the supply hose valve to sink. To help show what i'm looking for.
- If you're looking for a valve that attaches to a 1/2 iron pipe coming out of the wall, and then will feed to 1/2 copper tubing, then you're looking for- an angle stop, 1/2 female iron pipe to 1/2 compression. Just about any good hardware store will have it in stock or be able to order it, just be sure that they know what you need. I've often found that using visual aids,like a piece of pipe in one hand, and a piece of tubing in the other, with an empty space, waiting for a valve, between them, can be an invaluable aid to communication. Don't even try to cut and adapt a braided hose. The stainless braid contains a (relatively thin) rubber hose. Without the braid to reinforce it, it will burst. If you need to adapt plumbing, there is always a way to get water from point A to point B. The challenge is finding the most elegant route.
- Q: Could my subs kill my EGR valve? I replaced my O2 sensor and my check engine light didn't go off. So I had it checked again and the same problem was still there. It said that all the cylinders were running either rich or lean..... I can't remember. But I was told it could be the EGR Valve so I replaced it and for about a week the check engine light was off.Now its back on. Had it checked again and the same deal was going on. Oh there was also a low voltage reading..... which is why I'm thinking its my subs.So could it be my subs that keeps killing my EGR valve? And any solutions will be helpful. I don't want to have to replace my alternator because its in an extremely tough place to reach. And I already have a small Cap.... .5. My subs handle 600 RMS total. WOuld getting a bigger Cap help?
- Thank you for having such a powerful system! I am investing in hearing aids, and you and hundreds of thousands like you will make me rich in my retirement! The sub-woofers are not affecting your EGR valve. It is operated by a vacuum controlled by the ECM to regulate how much exhaust gas is to be fed back into the engine to control the NOx emissions. You want to make sure that there is no recall on the controller, or that it hasn't' failed. Follow the vacuum hose on the EGR valve to where it goes. That is the controller. Do a google search or look on Expert Village for a video.
- Q: I have pressure steady at 13psi --- water temp is normal range but the external emergency run valve has been dripping since i turned the boiler on this year? Expansion take was empty, so I forced water through and then drained it and reopened the valve.....I am stuck and getting concerned. Anyone have a suggestion?Would really apprecite it?Additional info:Boiler is a Gas Powered unit by MASTER from the 80's.....
- The TP valve will naturally wear out over time, if it has never popped open the washer inside of it has hardened, when you opened it it didn't seat properly when it closed back up, causing the drip. This is not an unusual or dangerous condition, the TP valve will usually wear out before the boiler does, it can be quickly and easily replaced. The valve will still function with a leak, but this reduces the efficiency of the boiler. DO NOT, under any conditions, DO NOT plug the leak by plugging the opening on the valve, this creates the potential for a very dangerous condition, let it drip until it can be replaced.
- Q: what is the purpose of valves such as: gate valve, foot valve and globe valve in the industry?
- the valves control the flow
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Rising Stem Solid Wedge Gate Valves Made of Ductile Iron
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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