Non-rising Stem Resilient Seated Gate Valve Made of Ductile Iron
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 unit/month
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Non-rising resilient seated gate valves solve the problem in general gate valves such as leakage, rusting etc. and saves installation space. It is used widely in tap water industry, sewage treatment, shipping construction, petroleum, chemicals, food, pharmacy, textile, electric power, metallurgy and energy system's pipeline to adjust and shut off fluids.
l Replaceable O-ring
l Low torque operation
l Rubber encapsulated wedge
l Clockwise closing direction
l Fusion bonded epoxy coated inside and outside
Specification
Body materials: Ductile Iron/Metal
Design standard: DIN3352 F5/F4, according to requirements
Design pressure: PN10/PN16/PN25
Size: DN80mm-DN2000
Connect type: Flanged gate valve
Seal type: Resilient seated gate valve, EPDM+ Ductile Iron
Coating:
Fusion bonded epoxy coated both on the interior as well as the exterior surfaces of the valve, flange surfaces are also fully epoxy coated, blue color.
Application
Potable water, neutral liquids, irrigation, heating and chilled water, fire systems etc, in either above ground or buried service applications and requires minimal maintenance
Feature
This Ductile Iron Resilient Seated Gate Valve is fully compliant to DIN3352 F4. We have light weight type, heavy weight type and even middle weight type for your reference, and these three options design construction of ductile iron will offer a robust and durable extended life performance.
1- Bolted bonnet, full bore: used for larger valves and higher pressure applications.
2- Stem sealed with O-rings: realize zero leakage, could be replace under full pressure.
3- Rubber encapsulated wedge: excellent elastic memory, ensure sealing effect.
4- Blue fusion boned epoxy coated inside and outside: suitable for portable water.
5- Working pressure from -1 to +16 and working temperature from -10 to +80°C
Durable
This valve is suitable for use in a wide range of applications including potable water, neutral liquids, irrigation, heating and chilled water, fire systems etc, in either above ground or buried service applications and requires minimal maintenance. This Resilient Seated Gate Valves have a rated working pressure of 16 Bar. The valves seal 100% leak tight. The waterway is clear, unobstructed and free from pockets. Resilient seated gate valves are fusion bonded epoxy coated both on the interior as well as the exterior surfaces of the valve, flange surfaces are also fully epoxy coated.
Advantages
1- OEM Factory : Professional manufacturer, clients from whole world.
2- High Quality, Competitive Price: Custom is accepted.
3- Complete Service: Long service Life, Fast delivery, Multilingual services.
4- Certificates: ISO9001, CE, NSF, TS, WRAS.
5- Low MOQ: Ready for providing the sample and producing some small orders.
FAQ
Q: Do you produce valves with PN40?
A: Yes, but for PN40, we suggest materials of metal, like cast steel, stainless steel…etc. We could also produce ductile iron valves with PN40.
Q: Are you manufacturer or trading company? Which kind of valves do you supply?
A: We are a professional manufacturer of butterfly valves, check valve, non-return valves, gate valves, Y-strainer and so on.
Q: Will you do inspection before shipment? Whether Third Party Inspection is available?
A: We have a professional engineer team, so we can offer you the most professional technical support. All valves are tested twice before and after hammer pin to ensure its perfect sealing property and to make sure every valve is ok before ex-factory. TPI is ok but the clients should bear all fees.
Q: What kind of package do you use for these valves?
A: Valves from DN80-DN1400 will be packed in wooden boxes, but valves above DN1400 will be in wooden pallets. If you need wooden boxes for above DN1400, the price may be more expensive.
- Q: I need a bit of help. I am trying to find the location of the EGR Valve on a 1992 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L. If anyone can help me out by posting back a picture or diagram that would be great. I found all the text directions, but did not find that to be helpful.Thanks,
- Ok here we go First raise the hood the engine sits side ways. now on the Passenger side of the Engine compartment is the engine. (i'm serious here) the end with the belt and the pulleys wil /and is Called the front even thou it sits sideways. now the thing on top of the engine is called a valve cover start looking from the front and follow it to the back (that's toward the Drivers side) when you get to the end of the valve cover look down you will see a Valve about 2 inches below the valve cover it has a black Vacuam line that runs to it this is the EGR valve. now Why in the world do you want to make it open on a 1992 Cavalier. most of the time we replaced them because they stuck open and caused idle problems. if your trying to just keep the light out Good luck
- Q: I live in Houston (where it hardly EVER freezes during the winter..) This winter it froze and the valve on the sprinkler system flew off and water started shooting straight up. Now that it's getting warmer and I'm going to need the sprinkler.. I have to repair it. Is this an easy fix that I can do myself? Or should I call someone.
- If okorder /... If the brass body of the backflow cracked, then you will need to replace the whole thing. That link above has the best prices for these things. Good luck!
- Q: I threw a birthday party last night, all went well until 2am when a crazy (drunk!) lady cut all the wires from my heating system (i guess as a prank??? dunno, she is never invited back). I have everything up and running when using one thermostat and connecting the thermostat wires (red directly to tv, Brown directly to W, and white directly to T) and not using the two Honeywell zone valves (model number V8043F. How do I connect those two zone valves to the L8148E aquastat?The valves have on bottom Th-TR, TH and TR and the two top screws are labeled end switch.If you need photos I can take them :)Thanks in advance!
- The zone valves should have 4 wires, 2 yellow and 2 red.The yellow wires are connected to the 24 volt thermostat circuit in a series. The corresponding thermostat turns the motor on, opening the zone valve, closing the end switch and turning on the boiler and the pump. The red wires are the end switch wires. They are just wired together in parallel and anytime at least one opens, it turns the boiler/pump on. Now, you must have one of the Tstat wires going to the boiler, when it calls for heat, it turns the boiler/pump on. You probably have the zone valves locked in the open position. So you will have heat all over the house but just not as much control as you had when you were running individual zones. But, you know what? Your system would be more efficient if you left the zone valves locked open and ran the system from one thermostat! To make it even better, you can run the circulation pump all heating season long ( just wire it direct to 120v) and just use the thermostat to turn the boiler(burner) on when there is a call for heat. If one zone or the other is too hot, try turning a valve down on the return line(if you have valves) to balance the heat. Hope this is not too complicated and hope to help!...................................
- Q: Cylinder head valves.Can't really differentiate the difference between burnt and just carbon build up on valves. Are they the same?If I the valves have no cracks or holes, can I clean the carbon off of them and reuse them.If they don't leak when I re-leak test them, are they then good to use?Had very little compression in one cylinder.What cleaner is safe to use on the valves?I know I should replace all, but any money I can save right now, helps a lot.Also I seen a method of re-lapping the valves by using a tool (stick with a suction cup on end that sticks to valve surface) that you spin while valve is seated. It refinishes the seat and recreates the seal/re-laps. Appears to work and seal just fine. Anything really wrong with this method?
- if the head or heads are off then why not take them to a machine shop ! they will grind the valves that are still good and replace the ones that are burnt up and they will make sure they seat good ! if you have low compression just on 1 cylinder then it might be a compression ring stuck !
- Q: I need a ball valve that when you shut it off it sends a signal to a light that indicates that it is off.
- Shouldn't be a problem. all that's needed is a valve with elect contacts on valve stem. should be able to get one with two sets of contacts for on and off...
- Q: How do you repack an osy valve? Where do you get the packing from? Do you have to shut down the water to do it?
- For most valves, replacing the packing can be done without shutting down the water system. The first step is to back seat the valve. Back seating will occur when the valve is fully opened, and will temporarily seal the leak around the stem. You simply open the valve completely with about 50-100ft-lb of pressure. Once the leaking has stopped, you can remove the packing bolts and nuts on the packing gland. Slide the packing gland up the stem and you will have access to the packing. You may need a packing hook, which is a flexible corkscrew tool, to help remove the old packing. Once you have removed the old packing you will want to repack the valve with new packing by wrapping it around the stem and pushing it down into the valve body. After the new packing has been replaced, it may need to be compressed a little so that the packing gland can be reinstalled. This can be done using two pieces of all-thread rod. Cut both all-thread rods to 6 inches long, making sure to use the same diameter all-thread rod as your packing bolts. Place the all-thread rod through the packing gland and tighten the nuts onto the all-thread rod to compact the packing in the valve. Next, remove the all-thread rod and replace with the bolts. Turn the hand wheel, so the valve is about half way open. Finally, tighten the nuts evenly until all leakage around the stem stops. You may need to exercise the valve a few times to make sure there are no leaks around the stem. Be careful not to over tighten the gland because it can crack and there is no reason to compress the packing more than is needed to stop the leak.
- Q: ok im buying a kx 125 from 96 and he said the only problem with the bike is that it has a small oil leak around the power valve too me it sounds like a gasket. but i want someone elses opinion on what else it could be.
- The kx125 actually has 3 valves in the exhaust, a main, a left-hand one and a right-hand one. Each is fitted with o-rings which require disassembly in order to be reached. This would also be a good time to clean the power valves since they tend to become encrusted with carbon deposits which interfere with their normal operation.
- Q: My mother is 40 and is going in on the 21st for an aeortioc valve replacement. We are so stress on deciding between what type of valve she should have to get. please help. please include things like costs and medicines and anything else that will give us more info.
- This is definitely a question for your cardiologist. I can tell you that mechanical valves will require a higher INR and they will have more problems with bleeding. A tissue valve won't last as long as mechanical, and may have to be replaced sooner.
- Q: Hi, I'm looking for asymmetrical two way valve needed in pipe line liquid product
- Valve company has been able to fulfill the requirements of its customers according to the highest standards, and always consider the customer satisfaction, so we would be grateful to receive their viewpoints and comments. So we also hope to contact us if they need further information, confirmation on any product. Please note that according to continually work on improving our products, all products materials, specification, dimensions, and etc. listed are subject to change without notice.
- Q: My pressure reducing valve (or restricting valve) was looked at by three master plumbers and they all said I need a new one. My water pressure has been low for weeks. It measures about 100 psi at the outside hose bibs, but it is very low inside and suddenly reduces after you turn on the facets inside. The shower is ok. My automatic sprinkler system is not able to work now due to low pressure. A relative of mine thinks we can just add a handle (as one is missing) on the valve and adjust the pressure ourselves. The repair of the valve is around $500-600! I am told in Texas that we have to have a permit and inspection to repair this valve. Also I was told by the last plumber that came out, that I have to install a expansion tank on my new hot water heater according to code. I'm not sure if that is a city code or federal. Please respond as to information you may have on this problem. The expansion tank is required I'm told when you have a pressure reducing valve for safety, is this true?
- The cost you quoted seems a bit high to me. Mine didn't cost anywhere near that amount in East Texas. A pressure reducing valve acts like a check valve when there is no flow. That is it closes as the pressure rises when you are not using any water. In this condition, the hot water heater can raise the pressure even higher since there is no place for the expanding water to go. That is the reason for the expansion tank. Without the expansion tank the pressure relief valve on the hot water heater can relieve unnecessarily or weep a bit.
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Non-rising Stem Resilient Seated Gate Valve Made of Ductile Iron
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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