Mining sand dredging gravel electric dredge pump

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 200 set/month

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Quick Details

Model Number: YQ G/ GH
Theory: Centrifugal Pump
Structure: Single-stage Pump
Usage: Water
Power: Electric
Standard or Nonstandard: Standard
Fuel: electric
Pressure: High Pressure
Application: Sewage
color: any color
certification: ISO9001
applications: dredging
applications1: gravel
applications2: mining
applications3: metal smelting
packing: wooden case
OEM: welcome
MOQ: 1 set

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	standard exporting wooden case or as the customer's request
Delivery Detail:	within 10-20 days upon the receipt of the payment

Specifications

electric dredge pump:
1.Anti-wearing, anti-corrosion and low abrasion rate
2. Non-clogging
3. Wide passage
4. ISO9001

Specifications:

1) General description:

Type G(or GH) gravel pumps are the series products introducted from Australia. Gravel pumps are designed for continuously handling the most difficult higher abrasive slurries which contain too big solids to be pumped by a common pump. They are suitable for delivering slurries in Mining. Explosive-sludge in metal melting, dredging in dredger and course of rivers, and other fields. Type GH pumps are of high-head ones.

Construction of this pump is of single casing connected by means of clamp bands and wide wet-passage. The wet-parts are made of Ni-hard and high chromium abrasion-resistance alloys. The discharge direction of pump can be oriented in any direction of 360°. This type of pump possesses the advantages of easy installation and operation, good performance of NPSH and abrasion-resistance.

2) Features:

1,Horizontal, cantilevered, single-deck structure, centrifugal pump.

2, Large internal passages reduce internal velocities maximizing wear life resulting in lower operating costs

3, Easy installation,discharge outlet can be adjusted at any direction of 360.
4,Cylinder bearing assembly,grease lubrication ,adjusting the distance between impeller and pump.

5,Mechanical seal, expeller seal and packing seal for selection.

Q: When I turn on my pump for the pool water-fountain it will run for 30 seconds or 4 minutes or anywhere in between then it just shuts off. I push the remote on button on again and it runs for a few seconds. Sometimes it will run for a while longer but mostly short durations. Thanks in advance for your help.: outdated wiring. Hire a certified electrician to re-wire it. Could be the timer too! Quit messing with it or you could have an electrical fire. Feel the walls near and around the set up box.

Q: What are the categories of pumps?: First, select the pump to meet the requirements of the headThe so-called head refers to the required lift, and not lift the water height, clear this point, the choice of water pumps is particularly important. Pump lift is about 1.15 to 1.20 times the height of lifting water. If the vertical height of a water source to the water is 20 meters, the required lift is about 23~24 meters. When selecting a pump, the pump head should be close to the required head, and the general deviation is not more than 20%. In this case, the efficiency of the pump is the highest, and it is more energy efficient, and the use will be more economical. If the lift on the nameplate is much smaller than the required lift, the pump can not meet the needs of users, even if the water can be pumped, the water is also very poor. But in turn, the high lift pump for low head, there will be heavy traffic, resulting in motor overload, if long time operation, the motor temperature, the winding insulation layer will gradually aging, and even burning motor.Two, select the appropriate flow pumpWater pump flow, that is, the amount of water is generally not too large election, otherwise it will increase the cost of water pumps. Should be selected as needed, such as the use of the user's family self-priming pump, the flow should be chosen as small as possible; if users use the submersible pump irrigation, you can properly select a larger flow.

Q: I have a pontiac grand am 1996 v6 with a 3.1L 3100 SFI engine. I have a coolant leak and I think it's coming from the water pump. When the car is cool and then turned on, about 4 to 9 minutes into warming up, coolant is hitting a belt and spraying out of the car's front end. When this is happening I see that there is coolant dripping off of the waterpump housing. The coolant started to spray everywhere about 15 seconds before the radiator fan kicked in. Why would this happen when first warming up only? Can a defective thermostat cause this to happen?: Understand what they do...thermostat is like a door inside the hose-either it is open or closed. Waterpump gasket is just a special paper that is between the pump and the engine block. The waterpump rotates so a shaft sticks out holding a pulley. Around that shaft has to be a material that does not wear very fast but allows shaft to rotate. It is called waterpump seal. Most likely that is gone so the waterpump is replaced with either a new one or a rebult one(depending on your finances). It lasted 15 years. Which is a good stretch, so you got to be expecting this kind of thing to happen.

Q: I'm trying to convince my dad to get a 1984 Porsche 944 for $900. However, the car need a new water pump and I was wondering how much it would be to get the part installed at a shop. What would be a good estimate as I'm planning on going to more than one place. So included with the price of the part and installation is this a good deal? And is the car reliable?: About $1600 or so. You'd be crazy not to do the timing belt at the same time. The 944 is a great handling, great driving car and it can be reliable IF....IF...you start with a good one. It would be a lot smarter to buy a nice one rather than a $900 beater, and that is GOOD advice.

Q: I have a 1997 Saturn SL2 and I was wondering how much would it be to replace the water pump? Would it be less expensive if I took it to a neighborhood mechanic instead a more popular one like Goodyear or something? Thanks for looking.: i just replaced my water pump on my jeep, the whole water pump kit was about $59.99 with lifetime warranty, most mechanics charge alot to do it, i did it myself, you just need a water pump, gasket, coolant draining pan, bottle of coolant and the procedure is pretty easy

Q: I have a Honda 20003 bf15 d short shaft Ineed to change the water pump I have removed the 5 bolts that hold the lower unit it on but the shifter is steal hooked up how doI unhook that?: Please get the workshop manual. From an imperfect memory it should be in forward gear to expose a link - but I could be confusing it with other brands. This brand has a known issue with the water pump if ever run dry as both the impellor and the housing can be damaged instantly. The pump should always be replaced as a full assembly, housing, seals and impellor, as detritus can easily block water galleries and that requires extensive work to remediate. The thermostat should be checked and replaced at the same time. Worn and damaged impellor material can easily end up through the block, head, thermostat etc. and that must be checked for as well. The lower cylinder can be down on compression caused by local overheating due to this and mud, sand and corrosion reducing water flow. An engine that very much must be flushed and looked after after all use - that includes all the larger models with this brand. They are quite a good engine, but seem very heavy for the output to me - particularly compared to lifting a two stroke on and off....

Q: My pump is almost 4 years old, work normal till recently I noticed sand mixed water flowing out of the delivery pipe. What should I do to make it normal again?: Try raising the pump a couple of feet. You may eventually need the well cleaned out.

Q: implementation of regulator in water level control system: I call the guy who installed it if he reputable he abound fix it if hes a jack. Then call a real plumber.

Q: Okay so we have a water pump outside instead of city water. A few days ago we noticed that it would turn off like always once the tank was full but then just would never turn back on. It was odd to us since it would always turn on and off at appropriate times. Now its on maybe 10 seconds and it shuts off. I took off one of the clear hoses it has and notices a green ooze inside it. I cleaned out the ooze and tapped some of the pipes in hopes of some more of it coming out. Since we have had a leak there is green stuff which i am guessing is lime, on the side of the tank. I'm also guessing this must bee the green ooze. What should I do? Now there is no water whatsoever being pumped and the time it does turn on very little water passes through. To me it sounds like something is blocking the pipes but if I pay hundreds for someone to come replace the pipes and check out the motor I dont want to end up with this problem again. If anyone has any information as to helping me I would so greatly appreciate it.: do you have shallow or deep well its the middle of summer the well could be dry you might have lost your prime on your pump there will be a bolt for priming take bolt out pour water in to hole untill full restart pump if pump doesnt fill up you might a stuck foot valve.

Q: In case our electric goes out we would like to be able to run the water pump (for the well) via solar panel. Can you give me instructions, pitfalls, recommendations, links etc to help me get started?The more solar info i can get the better!thanks 10 points on offer!Our sunlight is unobstructed: Build okorder /

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