LV PVC electric power cables different types of electrical cables

LV PVC electric power cables different types of electrical cables System 1

LV PVC electric power cables different types of electrical cables System 2

LV PVC electric power cables different types of electrical cables System 3

LV PVC electric power cables different types of electrical cables

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1000 m

Supply Capability:: 20000 m/month

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Specifications

Different types of electrical cables
1.IEC standard Made in China
2. factory price distributor
3, 12 years produce experience

HV/MV/LV PVC/ XLPE/ Copper/aluminum

Armoured/unarmored electric power cables

Different types of electrical cables

Operational performance

1.installation temperature:≥0°C

2. long-term permissible operation temperature≤90°C

3.Under the condition of short circuit (the max. continuing time should not exceeding 5 seconds) the max. operation temperature:250°C

4.minimum bending radius:

single-core cable: 20D, mm

multicore cable: 15D, mm

Note: D means the actual outer diameter of cables

5. Suitable areas :

Direct burial in the ground and the capacity of bearing certain mechanical force, not proper in the pipeline

6.Main electrical characteristics

different types of electrical cables

Main electrical characteristics

The type, Name, Suitable areas

different types of electrical cables

Type		Name	Suitable areas
Copper-conductor	AL-conductor	Name	Suitable areas
YJV	YJLV	XLPE-insulated cable sheathed with PVC	Indoor, tunnel, cable channel
YJY	YJLY	XLPE-insulated cable sheathed with polythene	Indoor, tunnel, cable channel
YJV22	YJLV22	XLPE-insulated cable sheathed with PVC and armored with steel tape	Direct burial in the ground and the capacity of bearing certain mechanical force, not proper in the pipeline
YJV23	YJLV23	XLPE-insulated cable sheathed with polythene and armored with steel tape
YJV32	YJLV32	XLPE-insulated cable sheathed with PVC and armored with thin steel wire	The bed of river and shallow sea, as the link line between the two platforms of oil and gas station in the water, the capacity of bearing tensile force.
YJV33	YJLV33	XLPE-insulated cable sheathed with polythene and armored with thin steel wire
YJV42	YJLV42	XLPE-insulated cable sheathed with PVC and armored with thick steel wire
YJV43	YJLV43	XLPE-insulated cable sheathed with polythene and armored with thick steel wire

Conductor	Compact Stranded Copper Conductor, Class 2 as per IEC 60228
	Circular solid Copper Conductor, Class 1 as per IEC 60228
	Flexible Stranded Copper Conductor, Class 5 as per IEC 60228
Conductor Screen	Semi-conductor (MV only)
Insulation	XLPE(Cross-linked polyethylene)
Insulation Screen	Semi-conductor (MV only)
Separate Screen	Copper Tape (MV must, LV optional)
Filler	PP Yarn, or Paper
Wrapping Tape	PP
Inner Covering	Extruded PVC (MV only)
Armour	Steel Wire, or Steel Tape, or Aluminium Tape or unarmored
Overall Sheath	PVC or PE

Q: Alright, im most likely moving to Germany in December, and im bringing my PS3 over with me. That I bought here in the US.. Is it possible for me to buy the power cable for a PS3 that works in Germany and plug it into my current PS3, or will it short it out?: It won't short out, cause it will only take certain power

Q: lost my original 7A cable and the uk wire is 2.5A: The PS3 Slim's power supply is rated at 250W which works out to be just under 2.5A @ 110v. Since the PS3 only draws around 100W it should be OK. If you were using an Older PS3 then it would require more power and would not be safe with a 2.5A cable. Since a new cable wouldn't cost much you should probably invest in a better one anyway.

Q: I lost the power cord and USB cable to my HDD case. The company of the case is Intex. On a sticker is says, Intex HDD Case T-350 SA.This was posted a long time ago by someone, but it's the only place I can find the photo.Serious answers only please, I'm not asking if I should get a new one. I just want to know the information on the power cord and cable.: It's a regular USB 2 cable. No idea what sort of power it takes. Can't be a very special power though. Your best bet is to get one of those switchable supplies from Radio Shack and try the voltage one at a time until the drive works. If you go under the drive won't run, so you can't do it that way if you start low and move higher.

Q: What type of plastic is a power cable made of? Thanks.?: Power cable isn't made of plastic, it is copper or aluminum covered with PE, PVC, or PTFE plastic.

Q: Today I was using my pc, it was running awfully slow so I restarted and it kept flashing quot;Power cable has not been attached to your video cardquot;. So I turned it off and flicked the master switch on the back of the pc and sure enough it turned on. But it was all low resolution and said no ati driver is installed. I reinstalled all the ATI files and drivers and restarted and the same error message came up. I then flicked the switch on the back and it booted up. I have also checked the Hardware manager and it says for the Graphics card quot;Can not start (error 10)quot;. So what I think is that the pSU is not supplying enough power to the graphics card, so the pc switches to iGP, I have a funny fealing it's the PSU, not the GPU...: Assuming you've checked that the power cable to your GPU is still attached? And/or tried different 6-pin plugs into your GPU? If you've tried that and it still does the same, it is likely to be the power supply failing. Only way to rule it out is to try another device, such as GPU, which requires the 6-pin power addition from the PSU - if that works then it's your GPU, if it doesn't work then your original diagnosis was most likely correct.

Q: So I was trying to run wiring for a 220 outlet and I hit a lower leg with the metal cable snake, now a bunch of outlets loose power for a minute or two ever so often, 20 min give or take. What can be the cause? Only the top breaker tripped. How can this be repaired. Please help.: When you say lower leg I am assuming you hit the bottom part of a buss in the breaker box. You arced the buss. Pull out the breakers that the outlets are on. Make sure you turn off the main before doing this, or you may fry your brain too. Look at the buss that the breaker is attached to. Is there a small black spot? If so, you need to clean it up and replace the break. I metal finger nail file works great to clean it up. You may have bumped the grounding bar and loosened up one of the wires there. That's also easy to do inside the breaker box. If you simply hit the lower leg of an outlet, the wire simply got knocked loose in that outlet and it is effecting the outlets that it branches off to. If this is the case, you should know how to fix that if you know how to use a snake. Though you should be using a vinyl snake on live wiring.

Q: i would like to have my power cables and control boxes inside in one spot is this possible? if so how and how expensive would it be?: You could use trunking for the cables, and for the control boxes if they are in the house you could hide them under a box which you could decorate to look like a parcel...personally I would paint it, but drill some holes for ventilation.

Q: cable laid in the GI trays and temperature is 30 digree centigrade: There is no definite safe formulas for your cables because it depends on many factors like what conductor . what insulation, how many cores ,what is your load , where is your load and ambient temperature and so on. The best guidance will be from the particular manufacturer who would provide the tables under various conditions as above.

Q: I bought this printer recently, and it only came with a USB cable, and when i plug it into my computer, it won't turn on. Is there a power cable that's supposed to come with it?: Yes, okorder using the Service Tag on the printer. Call them, email them, or chat over the internet with their tech support.

Q: I bought a TV and it requires 9 amps but it didn't include the cable. I have a 7 amp cable that fits, but I don't want to damage the TV. All the cables at stores around me don't fit well. Could I get away with just using this one for a couple days until the right one arrives in the mail? I can imagine that it wouldn't give me reliable power, but I don't really care about that, I just don't want to damage the power supply of the TV. Thanks in advance.: You have a TV that draws 9 amps from a 117 v.a.c. power line? That's roughly a kilowatt. You could run three 55-inch LED sets for that, with power to spare. Or does your TV operate from a 12-volt d.c. source, like for a boat or RV? That would make more sense, 108 watts total. In that case, using the wrong power cable could be at least a theoretical hazard. I'd wait for the proper cable. If you'll update your post with the make and model of your TV and what you're powering it from, you might get a better answer. Your location would also help, at least which country due to different a.c. power systems. ----------------------- Followup, per your added details: now I get it--you have a power cord that's rated at 7 or 9 amps, not a TV that draws that much. That's entirely different. Your TV/DVD combo will use a maximum of about 150 watts, which means it will draw just a little over one amp. So any power cord you can find that fits properly and is rated at something like 3 amps or more will be fine.

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