• JKL607 Series Reactive Automatic Power Compensation Controller System 1
JKL607 Series Reactive Automatic Power Compensation Controller

JKL607 Series Reactive Automatic Power Compensation Controller

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Applications

JKL607 series reactive automatic power compensation controller is designed according to the latest National standards of JB/T9663-1999,which is to be used together with low voltage electrostatic capacitance screen of various specifications,to provide real-time supervision on the power factor and reactive current of the power network,and give automatic throw-cut capacitor compensation to the power network.
JKL607A/607B/607C adopts the high quality single chip computer of US Amy Company,wich provides power cut-off memory function.It also has other obvious features such as digitally display the power factor and voltage of power network,strong function,precise compensation,easy debug and so on.
JKL607FA/JKL607FS adopts COMS digital integrated circuit and also use pointer meter to display the COSφ value.With manual operation function,you can use the manual operation button on the machine to switch on/off the compensation capacitor,while keeping the outpout state unchanged.
JKLD607C adopts dynamic reactive power compensation controller designed by intel 16 digit single chip comuter,which outputs DC9-12V signal,controls dynamic reactive power compensation control switch(Type:JKLD607KC)or controls bi-dimensional thyristor of zero passage trigger and plate trigger to quickly switch the capacitor.(Zero passage disturbance free switch)


Structure Characteristics

1. No throw-cut vibration,precise control within the range of full loads.
2. The lock function in super low load.
3. Over voltage protection function.
4. Use the circular operation mode of the earlier throw off,the earlie cut off.
5. It has preset functions of voltage,time delay and power factor,and the preset parameters maintain even then the power is cut off .


Code and Its Meanings
Operation Conditions

1. Altitude:≤2000m
2. Ambient temperature:-15℃+~50℃.
3. Relative humidity:≤90% at 20℃,≤50% at 40℃,
4. Ambient environment:no flammable,explosive,electric conducting dust,or corrosive gas.


Main Technical Parameters

1. Rated Voltage:jkl607A/B/C 380V JKL607FA/FS 220V
2. Sample Airflow:≤5A
3. Throw-in threshold:0.85-0.98
4. Over voltage protection:400-440V
5. Time delay:1-90s
6. Controlled Circuits:4,6,8,10,12
7. Dielectric strength:industrial frequency 3000V


Installation Size

The installation of JKL607 series adopts inserted case,with installation hole on the side.Put the hook of the fastening accessory into the hole,tighten the screw of the accessory and the controller is fixed on the scree.
JKL607A overall size:170×110×127mm Holing size:162×102mm(width×height)
JKL607B overall size:147×110×127mm Holing size:140×102mm(width×height)
JKL607C overall size:120×120×80mm Holing size:113×113mm(width×height)
JKL607FA overall size:120×110×127mm Holing size:162×113mm(width×height)
JKL607FS overall size:170×110×127mm Holing size:162×102mm(width×height)
JKLD607C overall size:120×120×127mm Holing size:113×113mm(width×height)



Q: Does anyone have a picture layout of the fuse box on a beretta z26 and which components they power. I got the repair manual and it doesn't have it in there. The fuse box cover is gone so its not there. I look on the internet and still find nothing about what fuses go to what components. I believe a have a short in something that is causing charging problems. But i can not find any where the fuse layout or diagram for this f****** car anywhere! I had a problem with this a few months ago and tested the alternator and it's good. It was a fuse problem then. This time ive tested the alternator by the manual instructions and it tested good. Everything points to a short somewhere. But still no charging and no clue what to try next.
Go to a wrecking yard and get a fuse box cover. You can also test your system yourself for a short or parasitic draw. First, shut off all the car's lights and accessories then close all the doors. With the battery in the car, first remove the negative battery terminal. Now, using a multimeter set to the DC volts scale put one probe on the negative terminal of the battery and the other probe to ground. Read the meter. If you read more than about a quarter of a volt, you have a draw somewhere. Troubleshoot the draw by having someone remove fuses one at a time until you see the meter voltage drop. When you see the voltage drop, you’ve found the circuit in which you have a power drain. Thoroughly examine that circuit, area by area, until you locate the reason for the voltage drop. Isolate and repair the problem. If this doesn't fix the problem, take extra care for a few days and see that all the lights are off before you walk away from the car for the evening. It could be something so simple as a door that hasn't closed fully, causing an interior light to remain on overnight or maybe a bad switch on an under hood or trunk light. Any of those are more than enough to do the job. I've done it myself, more than once. Usually, a full battery charge will take care of it. Even a jump start and running the car for an hour or so should build your battery up enough to get you going again as long as your alternator is doing its job.
Q: I live in Klang Valley, Malaysia
service station, car accessory place, electrical component store
Q: A friend of mine has left town for a week, so another friend and I decided to install air horns in his car as a Christmas present/practical joke. We wired the horns to his existing horn button and it seemed to have worked for a short time. Then it stopped. We assume the problem is a blown fuse and we're going back in to check/work on it more soon. My question is what should be done after replacing the fuse to assure no further failure? Obviously the horns are drawing too much power, but will any electrical components solve the issue? Possibly a higher gauge wire?
Wire a relay into the circuit. A relay is basically a switch that is turned on by an electric current. So you wire the relay into the circuit just like you have the horn wired now, and then run a wire from the battery to the secondary side of the relay and from the relay to the horn.
Q: I tried to install a new car stereo today. Like the idiot i am, I ignored everything I read about disconnecting the battery negative before I started. I assumed that removing the fuses for the radio would be fine. Anyway. I got the radio, and it was working fine for about 5 minutes. Then one of my dome lights flickered, and the radio started turning off and on again. I decided to try turning on the engine at this point to see if it just wasnt getting enough power. By the time i had gotten to the drivers side, everything was dead. The car wouldnt start, the lights dont come on. Everything is just dead. It got dark on me, so I've yet to remove the stereo, or check the inside fuse box. I'm hoping that its just a fuse, but with everything being out, and the main fuse in the motor-area fuse box intact, im losing hope that thats all thats wrong. I was thinking fusable link, or a solenoid. How did I manage to mess it up that bad? And how do I fix it? Thanks
try jumpstarting your car
Q: At first I thought I may have blown a fuse because all of the following went out at the same timePower WindowsPower LocksPower MirrorsWindshield wipers All gauges on cluster (except engine temp, that works) Trip computerInterior lightsPower trunk latch I think that's it. headlights, blinkers, brakelights still all work. Is it possible that it is a fuse issue that caused all of those? they seem to be seperate fuses on the manual I looked at online. I've never had a fuse issue with any of my cars, so i am unfamiliar with the proccess. Just to check I pulled fuse 32, which is (Cluster, Flex fuel module, ICP logic,Passive anti-theft module). and the fuse looked fine.Anyone know what I should check out?
Sure, I'll check the power distribution schematic. Oh, that's right. You apparently didn't think it was important to list the year and engine. So I can't look it up.
Q: I have a Polk Audio MOMO C400.4 that im planning to use to power my MOMO 6x5 components and MOMO 6x9's @ 75w RMS x 4. I also have a Kenwood KAC-7202 that i plan on running bridged which will pull 460w RMS @ 4 ohms. What size fuze will I need for 4 gauge wire? I have a 4AWG wire with a Rockford Fosgate distribution block that splits from 4AWG to 8AWG with AGU fuses on it, unknown size Would I still need a inline fuse to the battery?
The fuse near the battery is more important than the d-block fuses. One amp is 60A, the other's 40A - so logically you'd want a 100A fuse at the battery and a 60/40 in the d-block. 4 awg main and 8's out should be fine assuming you only have a few feet from the d-block to the amps.
Q: At the mercedes made in 1983, 300sd, which fuse is for the clock?Which numbers are on the fuse itself, or which position is the fuse among the other fuses in the row?
Simply look at the fuse box and it will tell you what fuse and the power of the fuse to use.
Q: I have no idea what this component is or where to get one. It's from a sleep comfort bed pump and I need a replacement part. Here's a picture of it and the pump label.
It's a 1.6 amp class T fuse. The other markings may be the original manufacturers part number, but I can't read them in your picture. Judging by the charred remains of the fuse plastered all over the board, you had a short circuit straight across the mains supply. Unless you find what caused the short and fix it properly, replacing the fuse on its own is a complete waste of time.
Q: from a circuit board, is this a resistor or a fuse?
Use a volt/ohm meter to test the fuse. Connect leads to each side of the fuse. With power off, measure ohms. Anything other than zero, you need to replace the fuse. or With power on, measure volts. Anything other than zero, you need to replace the fuse.
Q: Honda accord LX 2003 ac and wiper refuse to work.
Check the fuse relay that's related to those circuits.If they are not blown,its either a problem in the wiring harness going to the wiper switch or ac clutch switch ac compressor switch,the switch itself like the multifunction switch that controls the wiper,,or its something wrong with the actual components that the fuse and relay powers such as the wiper motor or ac compressor.If the ac wiper button are on the same control panel,the panel itself is probably faulty if fuses are ok

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