• JKL607 Series Reactive Automatic Power Compensation Controller System 1
JKL607 Series Reactive Automatic Power Compensation Controller

JKL607 Series Reactive Automatic Power Compensation Controller

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Applications

JKL607 series reactive automatic power compensation controller is designed according to the latest National standards of JB/T9663-1999,which is to be used together with low voltage electrostatic capacitance screen of various specifications,to provide real-time supervision on the power factor and reactive current of the power network,and give automatic throw-cut capacitor compensation to the power network.
JKL607A/607B/607C adopts the high quality single chip computer of US Amy Company,wich provides power cut-off memory function.It also has other obvious features such as digitally display the power factor and voltage of power network,strong function,precise compensation,easy debug and so on.
JKL607FA/JKL607FS adopts COMS digital integrated circuit and also use pointer meter to display the COSφ value.With manual operation function,you can use the manual operation button on the machine to switch on/off the compensation capacitor,while keeping the outpout state unchanged.
JKLD607C adopts dynamic reactive power compensation controller designed by intel 16 digit single chip comuter,which outputs DC9-12V signal,controls dynamic reactive power compensation control switch(Type:JKLD607KC)or controls bi-dimensional thyristor of zero passage trigger and plate trigger to quickly switch the capacitor.(Zero passage disturbance free switch)


Structure Characteristics

1. No throw-cut vibration,precise control within the range of full loads.
2. The lock function in super low load.
3. Over voltage protection function.
4. Use the circular operation mode of the earlier throw off,the earlie cut off.
5. It has preset functions of voltage,time delay and power factor,and the preset parameters maintain even then the power is cut off .


Code and Its Meanings
Operation Conditions

1. Altitude:≤2000m
2. Ambient temperature:-15℃+~50℃.
3. Relative humidity:≤90% at 20℃,≤50% at 40℃,
4. Ambient environment:no flammable,explosive,electric conducting dust,or corrosive gas.


Main Technical Parameters

1. Rated Voltage:jkl607A/B/C 380V JKL607FA/FS 220V
2. Sample Airflow:≤5A
3. Throw-in threshold:0.85-0.98
4. Over voltage protection:400-440V
5. Time delay:1-90s
6. Controlled Circuits:4,6,8,10,12
7. Dielectric strength:industrial frequency 3000V


Installation Size

The installation of JKL607 series adopts inserted case,with installation hole on the side.Put the hook of the fastening accessory into the hole,tighten the screw of the accessory and the controller is fixed on the scree.
JKL607A overall size:170×110×127mm Holing size:162×102mm(width×height)
JKL607B overall size:147×110×127mm Holing size:140×102mm(width×height)
JKL607C overall size:120×120×80mm Holing size:113×113mm(width×height)
JKL607FA overall size:120×110×127mm Holing size:162×113mm(width×height)
JKL607FS overall size:170×110×127mm Holing size:162×102mm(width×height)
JKLD607C overall size:120×120×127mm Holing size:113×113mm(width×height)



Q: I have a 99 mitsubishi eclipse, and recently the radio stoped working, along with the reading lamp that I have. I looked under the hood in the fuse box, and there was a fuse blown, but everytime I put a new one in, it would blow almost right away. What exactly is this caused from, and how can I get it fixed?
There's a fault with one of the components on the circuit or one of the power wires is grounding to earth (trapped wire/damaged sleeving etc). Identify exactly which items are covered by this fuse and switch all the items off. Change the fuse for a good one, and then switch each component on in turn to see which one causes the fuse to blow. A fairly common fault for aftermarket stereos is for a wire to get trapped between the mounting cage and the chassis of the stereo when it's being pushed into the dashboard, stripping the casing off the wire and causing it to ground to earth. Could also be listening to the stereo too loud (again aftermarket stereos are more likely to be affected) - the extra current to the stereo may cause it to pop the fuse.
Q: I have a 1996 Ford Contour sedan. The tail lights, and the dash lights have gone out. The head lights, high beams, turn signals, break lights, everything else is working fine. The last time this happened, I replaced the headlight switch and that fixed it. But this time, I replaced the headlight switch again, and it still doesn't work. I checked all the fuses in the box under the steering wheel, and all of them are fine. Any guesses as to what else could be causing the problem?
I have the exact same problem. And it's not a fuse!!!!!
Q: a power surge caused my ups to malfunction, i opened it up and realised a flat like sea blue component/part (i guess it is a capacitor) with no. GNR 20D5GIK blown, I removed the component and powerd the ups and noticed it was working, i would like to know 1. what is the name of that component2. what is its function on the board3. would its absence cause anythingthank you
ARGH. You have a UPS with a damaged primary (i.e. direct from the power line) circuit. Removing just one obviously-damaged component is not sufficient to guarantee that it's safe to operate. Your UPS could catch fire, start your house on fire, and thereby kill you while you sleep. You should immediately unplug your UPS and have it serviced by a qualified technician. Or, replace it.
Q: I asked how to fix it, but was just told the same thing everyone else said, go to a mechanic and let them do it. I would like everyone to know write now that is my car, and I intend on learning everything I can about it, secondly I'm broke, and thirdly, i am a very poor grammarist.lol but seriously I would really like to know what this is.
they are a section of thinner wire(usually encased in a glass or plastic case) that fails to protect the whole circuit or component when the temperature, voltage or current drawn rises too high, hence the name thermal. fixing it is easier said than done. do you know where it is? do you know how to safely remove and replace it? can it be removed/replaced? best bet is to get (buy, beg/borrow/ steal) the service manual for your car and read that first. if you get one, it becomes a handy resource for when you need to know stuff about the car. these manuals are made either b the manufacturers or other people who atually pull a car apart and put it back together, noting instructions and taking photos, so they are relatively easy to follow.
Q: I have an old 1998 dodge stratus and it keeps blowing the ignition fuel starter fuse(20A). I replace it 4 times and they failed. Can someone tell me what's going on and I can get over this?
The ignition fuel and starter are all on the same circuit?? Seems odd, but possible I guess. Your going to have to get an amperage draw test done on the individual components of the system and see which one is drawing enough amps to melt the fuse. Could be the components, the wiring (not likely) or the control module (rare). Also could be a short to ground or short to power. Sounds confusing but I bet it's faulty internal starter windings causing the problem. Have the starter removed and professionally tested by a reputable auto electric shop not a parts guy that thinks he's a mechanic. Also if it's a manual transmission car try parking it on hills and roll starting it to verify the problem if this is possible.
Q: How can I tell if the fuse is blown?
For sure please call Sanyo service center to help you (don't wait until the set blow the worst case it can set fire. Buzzing sound usually comes from the component that has coil in it, like flyback, transformer. But it usually comes from the flyback when its leaking. If this the safety fuse you're talking about, when it blows your set won't be able to turn on anymore.
Q: Hi everybody, I tried asking somebody to check the engine light on my car, they accidentally jumped the wrong cable which seems to have stopped my sony car stereo from working now. I checked the radio fuse and fuse behind the stereo and they all look fine. I am still able to eject and insert a CD into the system so that means that power is getting to it right? Is there a reason why the head unit doesn't come on?also Is it possible to fry your cars wiring with this mistake? But isn't that what the fuses are for? Is it just my head unit?thanks in advance!
No, fuses do not protect against reversed polarity. They are designed to protect from shorted electrical supply wiring and overloads (excessive current). Reversing the DC polarity to many devices will spell sudden death. Depending on how long the condition existed, there could have been a really huge buildup of heat which has damaged power supply components. One reason that reverse polarity is used with DC welding equipment is that normal polarity puts more heat into the workpiece, whereas reversed polarity puts the heat into the welding electrode.
Q: 2003 dodge grand caravan the parking lights wont come on and i can find the fuse! i looked at the fuse box in the engine compartment and all the fuses look good! is there another box ? please help. ps my headlights work and so are the dash lights
you probably might need to change your light bulbs if they are burnt out or one of the relays is short.
Q: hello i have a short in my car the keeps blowing my ingnition relay fuse and i cant find it. no matter how hard i search. have any of u used one of that short circuit finds like this page describes Tech and if u did is it hard to use and how do you use it? i dont wanna spend $50 on junk.
So what do you plan on doing with the short finder? Tear the wiring harness all apart so you can scan each one for a short? The way to find a short is to pull each fuse,one at a time, and have a test light hooked up to the disconnected negative battery cable and the negative battery post. When you pull the fuse that turns the test light off you've found which circuit it is on. Next you need a wiring diagram of the fuse box so that you can see which of the wires on that circuit go to which component. No matter how hard you search? The fact you are even looking for a short finder suggests you have no clue what you are doing so I would recommend hiring a real mechanic to fix your draw problem, not waste it on gimmicks.
Q: A couple of years ago I installed after market speakers in the rear of my car and kept the stock speakers in the front. I connected an amp to the rear speakers. It was working fine but one day I drive my car and notice only the front speakers (the stock ones) are playing. I pop open the hood and notice the amp wire was disconnected from the fuse going into the battery. I reconnect them and turn on the stereo but still there is no sound to the rear speakers. I can hear the tweeters I have make a fuzzing noise, though. Anyone have any ideas on what the problem is?
I suppose it's possible that when the amp was disconnected from the fuse it blew it out or something like that. If you can reconnect the back speakers to the stock amp and they sound OK you know that the problem is with the amp, not the speakers. Also try just putting a new fuse in the amp (they usually come with an extra fuse.)

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