JKL607 Series Reactive Automatic Power Compensation Controller

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Applications

JKL607 series reactive automatic power compensation controller is designed according to the latest National standards of JB/T9663-1999,which is to be used together with low voltage electrostatic capacitance screen of various specifications,to provide real-time supervision on the power factor and reactive current of the power network,and give automatic throw-cut capacitor compensation to the power network.
JKL607A/607B/607C adopts the high quality single chip computer of US Amy Company,wich provides power cut-off memory function.It also has other obvious features such as digitally display the power factor and voltage of power network,strong function,precise compensation,easy debug and so on.
JKL607FA/JKL607FS adopts COMS digital integrated circuit and also use pointer meter to display the COSφ value.With manual operation function,you can use the manual operation button on the machine to switch on/off the compensation capacitor,while keeping the outpout state unchanged.
JKLD607C adopts dynamic reactive power compensation controller designed by intel 16 digit single chip comuter,which outputs DC9-12V signal,controls dynamic reactive power compensation control switch(Type:JKLD607KC)or controls bi-dimensional thyristor of zero passage trigger and plate trigger to quickly switch the capacitor.(Zero passage disturbance free switch)

Structure Characteristics

1. No throw-cut vibration,precise control within the range of full loads.
2. The lock function in super low load.
3. Over voltage protection function.
4. Use the circular operation mode of the earlier throw off,the earlie cut off.
5. It has preset functions of voltage,time delay and power factor,and the preset parameters maintain even then the power is cut off .

Code and Its Meanings

Operation Conditions

1. Altitude:≤2000m
2. Ambient temperature:-15℃+～50℃.
3. Relative humidity:≤90% at 20℃,≤50% at 40℃,
4. Ambient environment:no flammable,explosive,electric conducting dust,or corrosive gas.

Main Technical Parameters

1. Rated Voltage:jkl607A/B/C 380V JKL607FA/FS 220V
2. Sample Airflow:≤5A
3. Throw-in threshold:0.85-0.98
4. Over voltage protection:400-440V
5. Time delay:1-90s
6. Controlled Circuits:4,6,8,10,12
7. Dielectric strength:industrial frequency 3000V

Installation Size

The installation of JKL607 series adopts inserted case,with installation hole on the side.Put the hook of the fastening accessory into the hole,tighten the screw of the accessory and the controller is fixed on the scree.
JKL607A overall size:170×110×127mm Holing size:162×102mm(width×height)
JKL607B overall size:147×110×127mm Holing size:140×102mm(width×height)
JKL607C overall size:120×120×80mm Holing size:113×113mm(width×height)
JKL607FA overall size:120×110×127mm Holing size:162×113mm(width×height)
JKL607FS overall size:170×110×127mm Holing size:162×102mm(width×height)
JKLD607C overall size:120×120×127mm Holing size:113×113mm(width×height)

Q:I have a 1989 5.0 l camaro that wont start. Ive replaced the starter battery and nothing. Ive also tried jumpstarting the car and still nothing. When i turn ob the ignition switch nothing happens. no sound or click. When i turn the switch on all other components start but the car just wont turn over. Its missing the crank fuse might it have to do something with it? Really need some help pls.: yes crankfuse is really important but start with your fuse box and the nuetral safety switch

Q:For professional mechanics. I have a 93 buik regal with a 3800. It has no ignition fire. It began with intermittent stalling but would start back up. Then it wouldn't start at all. The control module and coils have proven to be good (tested on another vehicle). It has new cam and crank sensor. Harmonic balancer has no damage to the interrupter rings. PCM is good (tested on another vehicle), Cam is turning and cam magnet is present. Performed a thorough continuity check on all wiring in the circuit from every single point, checks good. Still no fire. What did I miss? Remember, all components in the circuit is good and I'm positive the timing chain is not broken.: Fuses? You have to see if the Ignition module is seeing the crank sensor and is the PCM getting a signal from the Ignition module. These do have a high failure rate for wiring from the crank sensor to the ignition module. Is the module getting power on the Pink wire?

Q:after a ride i noticed my neutral light, tachometer, blinker lights and gauge, and brake light were not working anymore. im not good at electrical but i took off my gas tank and seat to follw the wires and i didnt see anything that looked like it wasnt getting contact, and i also checked my fuses. any thoughts?: Now that you're satisfied with your fuses and connections,check your relays, and wiring between connections for any place where the may get pinched. Also check mounting of all the affected devices for a good, clean, rust free and solid mounting to ensure good grounding of those devices. It sounds like the failure of any one of these components affects them all.

Q:Can all the components plug in to 1 output( 6V DC)? Will the current drop? What is the best way to distribute in order to maintain no current drop.: This depends on the current demand of your components and the capacity of your power supply. If each of your components draws 1 Amp and the supply is only rated for 10 Amps, something is likely to heat up in the power supply.

Q:I have a Kenmore 110.64672400 and my husband thought it would be easy to disconnect the buzzer. He cut the two wires to the buzzer and started the dryer. It ran - until it started tried to buzz - then it died.What did we fry? What do we now need to replace?Please help.: go okorder

Q:I was trying to replace my ceiling light bulb in my 97 honda accord and yes i was stupid and didn't disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. And yes i blew out one of the fuses. I replaced the fuse and then noticed that my passenger door the one right behind the driver that when i open it the ceiling light wont come on but all the rest of the doors when i open it the ceiling light would come on. I thought it was the door jam switch so i replaced it and it still won't come on. I also checked every single fuse and all of them are still good. So i'm guessing that its the wiring so now i am wondering if its my wreckless short circuit that may have caused the wiring damage. Or short circuit does not cause wire damage. By the way my car only has one interior light which is that ceiling light. Thanks in advance for any answers!: The short did not hurt your wiring or cause your present problem. That's what fuses are for, to protect your wiring and other Components. You might try double checking all of your connections, but check at that new switch first. if you need to replace that wire, find out where the wires next connection is and try running a temporary wire first, if it works then you can hide the new wire! This could be several hours work though, chasing that wire through the body. Hope this helps, good luck

Q:Hi everyone, i hope you can help me out but i have a 92 grand am with a OHC quad 4 engine, 179407mi. I am trying to start it up and the engine turns good but not cracking up, Put new spark plugs and reconnect the ignition components back up, except there is a red wire tip clamp that needs to be connected back up, (WHICH IT WAS ALREADY OFF BEFORE TAKING COVER TOP OFF) i look and look and look for find where is goes and cant, also when you turn the key to the ON position i don't hear the fuel pump hums like it usually does, I ran outta gas a few times and wonder did the fuel pump shut off? or going bad? or just a relay/fuse? which i hoping that it is a relay/fuse, so please anyone can you tell where i can find the fuse/relay? and what does it looks like? and any more tips i need to know?: Sounds like the fuel pump fuse.try looking under the dash or on the side of the dash when you open the door.if it isn't there it will be under the hood.I would reccomend you go to your local autozone and purchase a $15 book on your car!! not only will it help you find those pesky relays and fuses.but it will also have a wiring diagram to show you where that disconnected wire goes.but don't fret if you can't find that because sometimes car manufacturers use wiring harnesses for different cars and option packages and that wire may not be used for your vehicle.although given it's location my guess isthat it goes somewhere.Buy a book if you are going to be doing your own work on the car.it is a invaluable investment!!!!!!!!!

Q:2003 Ford Crown Victoria. Drove through some water last night and shortly after lost Power Steering, blower motor, A/C Heater. All of these things work fine after installing a single 15 amp fuse located in the car-by driver's feet. BUT then stops working after the fuse blows right away! What should I be looking for and where? Thanks: look for a mechanic in your phone book. you can seriously screw the pooch and your wallet if you try to fix this yourself. next time don't drive through water.

Q:hey! i have a music man 112 rd 50 and have problems to go with it, im not sure what the issue is but heres what she is doing. when i turn her on i have to turn the volume all the way up to get sound (at least 6 to 10) and then the sound is very muffled and clips in and out, it is not reaching anywhere near the volume it should, ive changed the fuse (it was not turning on at first fixed that) i have also changed the preamp tube and other tubes, they all work fine as far as ii can tell (there new they better be) any idea what may be going on??: If the fuse blew, something caused that (fuses going on their own are pretty rare). Chances are, you had a tube short which took out another component(s), and that took out the fuse. Music Man amps are actually kind of notorius for damaging the plate resistors when a power tube fails. I'm betting that's what happened, and now (even though you've replaced the power tubes), they're not getting adequate voltage on the plates to operate properly. Unless you know your way around a tube amp at the component level, I'd say take it to a good amp tech. Something like this shouldn't take more than an hour to diagnose and repair. Good luck. Greetings from Austin, TX Ken

Q:I have a rotel RB-850 that won't turn on after working fine forever. Power light does not come on. Someone suggested it might be a blown fuse.: I repair these - it is never just the fuse! I urge you to not attempt to just replace the fuse. Fuses do not go out due to age, they blow to protect other components from further damage and/or fire (no, I am not kidding). The amplifier requires service by a qualified technician. There are no user replaceable parts inside. Those Rotels were good units and worth the repair. Your best bet will be a stereo/home theater store that does repairs, although you may find a TV repair shop that has an tech that knows vintage audio. Now put that screw-driver away before you hurt yourself.

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