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Q: I have a 1996 Ford Contour sedan. The tail lights, and the dash lights have gone out. The head lights, high beams, turn signals, break lights, everything else is working fine. The last time this happened, I replaced the headlight switch and that fixed it. But this time, I replaced the headlight switch again, and it still doesn't work. I checked all the fuses in the box under the steering wheel, and all of them are fine. Any guesses as to what else could be causing the problem?: See Ford Contour Recall # 8779. If you have NO blown fuses, your problem is almost certainly the light switch.

Q: Electromotive forceconductorsinternal resistancewhat is fuse and its function?: EMF (pretty much the same as electrostatic potential or voltage) is measured in units of energy per charge such as joules per coulombs (volts). Resistance is measured in ohms Appropriately enough, it's inverse, conductance, is measured in mhos. Because it's simply the inverse of resistance, conductance never really gets used. You just say 1/R instead. The function of a fuse is to burn out when current spikes so that more valuable components DON'T burn out or the circuits in the wall of your house don't catch fire or something very bad. It's rare to see fuses in a house now because circuit breakers do the same job and don't have to be replaced after tripping.

Q: Do you usually buy the cheap OKorder batteries? or through a distributor?What do you think about the rumour that the cheap batteries have some missing safety components similar to a fuse etc (to my knowledge, batteries dont' have fuses) that prevent overheating. And the cheap batteries are prone to catching fire after they have overheated.: If buying NiMH batteries, I always use name brand batteries like Powerex or Eneloop. I also use a good quality charger, like Maha. Having the extra capacity and performance is important so I suddenly don't have enough juice to finish shooting. Also, the quality batteries save money in the long run.

Q: I like gardening and growing flowers and plants, but I need to save up money in this crisis ya know, and good ol? regular planters are just too expensive. I have all this old equipment piling up and making mess on my back yard. a tv screen from the 1980?s. a computer screen from the 90?s an old vcr that must be just as old, etc etc.and they?re all just sitting there waiting for kingdom come. So I figured Hey why not make a planter out of the whole lot o?them! maybe just the tv screen. Does anybody have any experience with odd planters? I just do it like I would do it with any regular planter?: Hollow it out drill holes in the bottom of it make sure it's raised off the ground for water to flow out after watering ( for the long term) fill with soiland done.

Q: I have a AEG Airsoft gun and It does not have a fuse on it.What will a fuse do to it and what should I expect it to do to the Airsoft gun's performance?Does the motor size determine anything?: A fuse is just like a wire with a little resistance. When it gets hot it melts. What that does for a motor, is when it's drawing to much amperage it will blow the fuse before it blows a motor. Chances are if they didn't put one in there already you don't need one. Little motors will burn out if they get jammed, but it usually takes a while. :o)

Q: I have an older 2-channel Sanyo audio receiver. It takes two fuses (one fuse for each speaker channel). The fuses that were originally in the receiver were 2A fuses. They are blown and I need to find replacements. I have two 4A fuses I pulled from an old stereo component system. They're both the same as the original fuses but they're 4A. Would it be safe for me to put them in the receiver? And if so, could I be able to turn the system up fairly loud without frying it due to using 4A fuses? Or should I avoid this altogether? It doesn't matter if I fry the system because it's old, but I'm more concerned if it created sparks or smoke or even started a fire.: You would be safe yourself, but not your audio receiver as the fuse is there for a reason.

Q: GE microwave oven blows its main time delay inline fuse everytime i put new one in: Microwave Fuse

Q: And how are they wired?: There are two sides to the average home A/C unit. You have the evaporator side or indoor blower and the condenser side outdoor unit. On a close of the thermostat 24v from r to y (G) the indoor fan relay closes(24v GC). Allowing 110v to the indoor blower. The 24v signal also travels to the condensing unit (YC). If equipped with low and/or high pressure switches and they are closed 24v will be supplied to the cooling contactor. When the cooling contactor coil is powered 220v will pass through the contactor to the compressor and condenser fan (Condenser fan sometimes have fan cycling controls). Both compressor and condenser fans have capacitors. Indoor blower motor typically 110v supplied to indoor unit through breaker Outdoor unit typically 220v supplied through separate breaker. Indoor unit transformer takes 110v and down steps to 24v for control power. (Sometimes internally fused) Typical 24v wiring C- Common leg of 24v R- Red supply side of 24v W- Heat Y- Cooling G- Indoor Fan

Q: I have a 1973 vw beetle. My indicators don't work, as well as my fuel gauge and alt and oil lights. The alt or the oil lights don't come even when you turn the ignition. The headlights work so it's not a fuse. Hazard lights still work and show up on the dash. Can you please tell me what it is: Don't discount the fuse idea until you have checked them all, the headlights work off a different circuit. Since you have lost so many functions, check the earth wire between each of the components/lamps. The Beetle uses a brown wire as earth and it is connected to several components before terminating on the bodywork. Is the flasher relay working correctly? they are cheap to replace but new ones look completly different to the original so take a note of which wire goes to each (numbered) connector. This unit too is earthed by means of the clip which fixes it to the body. Please don't attempt to run the car without knowing that the oil pressure light is working The engine will destroy itself in seconds without oil pressure.

Q: I have a 2002 Honda Civic that has a 12-Volt power outlet to plug in things such as my radar detector. I've used the same radar detector in my Civic for years without any problems. Recently, after using my radar detector, my fuse would burn out after using the outlet with the detector plugged in. It happens every time. I've already changed the fuse three times! And it's the correct amps too! Does anyone have any idea what's going on? Does my car have a more serious electrical problem I should know about? Any suggestions would be great.: Obviously something has happened to your radar detector to cause it to draw excess amperage or the fuse wouldn't blow. Perhaps the power cord has an issue?

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