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Wiring diagham

Q: I also checked the fuses but still no power to the fuel pump and ideas what it might be?: did you check the pump before fitting it, if not get some cable and go from battery to relay and see if the pump runs,if not check by placing temporary wires from pump relay to the pump and trying Again,if still not working temp cable from battery to pump relay then from pump relay to the pump if it works its a short circuit in the cars wiring loom,if it doesn't work then its the relay or pump, if you checked the pump earlier then its the relay at fault,also check the earths (grounding cables) if these are loose of broken then no return means no power,,just to be sure try a fuse that's working another component,of the same rating,in other words just swop the fuses over if they are same rating, and try again,hope this helps and be careful fuel pumps and fuel and sparks can cause fires

Q: i thght my car was flooded but then i checked the fuses and saw the fuel pump fuse was blown but when i replaced itlt; that one blew rite away!: The fuel pump is probably bad. Although, a bare wire rubbing against a metal bracket or something could cause a short in the wiring.

Q: I have a circuit keep blowing fuse(0.4A) with slightly lower rating of my transformer (0.5A) without any load, so i think is the issue of in-rush current. ***Note : my transformer is toroidal, saw a lot of website saying they inhibit higher inrush voltage (80times. scary)***Will the in-rush current will do any harm or any changes to other things(component) ?If so, what type or rating of fuse should i get ? (best if easily get, market available)ORis there any way to de-energize the transformer when it is turned off/before switch on, or any circuit to use for protect over-current/voltage during inrush ONLY ***Note that i want to make my circuit fuse safe from short circuit and blow the fuse if it is really short circuit***: Assuming the transformer is well designed and you are operating it within it's rating, no problem. I'd change the fuse to 3/4 amps slo-blow. .

Q: I recently took the compressor apart, lubricated all components, but the pump still wont work. I hear the relay click when i turn on the air pump uld it be the relay, or the fuse, and if its the fuse, where is it located? i know the relay is in the trunkany help would be appreciated, thank you: The okorder

Q: i have a 1989 190e Mercedes Benz i am trying to set up a sterio system in my car but cant find the fuses ne where and a also noticed that my fuel gauge isnt working and a friend told me that a fuse sumwhere might be blown but i can find the fuse box: There are two locations: 1. there is a fuse box under the hood. The top right side, in front of the driver, just look for broken or fried metal on the fuses. 2. Go on-line and print the schematic of the fuses which are disbursed throughout the engine. I am not a mechanic, but an Computer IT Tech, so I immediately checked the internet and found everything I need to know about my 889 190E Benz, it is an amazing car, it runs better than some newer non-German cars.

Q: Hi my first visitI have been having problems with battery drains lately. Overnight the voltage of my car battery drops from 12.4 to 11.8 and if I leave it more than 3 days it will not start (11.5 to 11.2). On idle and load it is near 14.2. So I feel alternator is charging well.I am about to start pulling fuses to locate drain but was wondering if an alternator that is starting to die (but will still charge) can cause battery drain. Can the diodes in alternators draw current from the battery?Thanks: full charged battery's are 12.4- and up not 13.8 only, that guy sounds like a rude know it all. and yes it can, there are allot of thing inside the alternator that can go bad and drain the battery. if you want to do it the easy way get it tested at an auto parts store, they can tell you. if you would rather do it your self, use to volt meter and pulling fuses, but I suggest putting it on the amps setting and use and use the ground post and terminal. because if you accidentally ground out the positive side you could blow fuses, cause shorts, other kinds of damage, or get shocked. but of you ground the ground. well you'r grounding a ground and nothing happens lol. and don't let people tell you that you have to go to collage to change it or rebuild it. if you look the info up and just put you'r head into it there is no reason you can't do it or at least try. people that tell you that are just smart mouths and the world is full of them. my brother didn't go to school to weld and he is the best welder in this town and my uncle is a very respected mechanic and he didn't go to school for that either. I'm the first man to go the collage in my family and i still have to ask the older people around for advice allot. all school is, is a way to get a peace of paper, take it from me, there was some people in my class that would do more damage then they fixed. and they graduated too. anyways Hope you get it fixed.

Q: I am unable to locate the fuse that feeds the components mounted on the rear hatch (including the wiper, door lock, and keyless entry receiver). The service manual has no designated fuse. I would appreciate any help in solving this issue. Thanks.: in side of fuse cover should show full lay out of same look on inside of cover plate

Q: I have a 1973 vw beetle. My indicators don't work, as well as my fuel gauge and alt and oil lights. The alt or the oil lights don't come even when you turn the ignition. The headlights work so it's not a fuse. Hazard lights still work and show up on the dash. Can you please tell me what it is: Don't discount the fuse idea until you have checked them all, the headlights work off a different circuit. Since you have lost so many functions, check the earth wire between each of the components/lamps. The Beetle uses a brown wire as earth and it is connected to several components before terminating on the bodywork. Is the flasher relay working correctly? they are cheap to replace but new ones look completly different to the original so take a note of which wire goes to each (numbered) connector. This unit too is earthed by means of the clip which fixes it to the body. Please don't attempt to run the car without knowing that the oil pressure light is working The engine will destroy itself in seconds without oil pressure.

Q: 1997 Chrysler Sebring w/2.5L V6.Customer complaint: Blows 20A ASD fuse - sometimes twice in one day, other times runs fine for more than a week.I can duplicate the problem about every 4-5 minutes. I have installed an amp meter in the ASD fuse socket - when I jerk the throttle open the meter will pin to 40+ amps (very intermittant. It might take several times to duplicate.) It quickly returns to the normal 3-5 amp draw - often quickly enough that it doesn't even trip a 20A circuit breaker in series with the amp meter (but instantly blows the fuse if it is inserted)Unfortunately, more often than not, the circuit breaker will trip.I am at my wits end on this one. I have checked and rechecked the wiring and components associated with the ASD relay feeds. Obviously - I'm missing the problem!Any tips would be greatly appreciated - Thanks.: Why don't you do a amp test on the fuel pump circuit and keep in mind that if a fuse blows black inside that indicates a short. Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way I'd try supplying the ASD circuit with a whole new ground and then see what occurs bec I still believe that its a wiring issue or bad ground or bad connection etc. Rick is right bec the PCM does monitor and control the ASD relay circuit but even the PCM could have a bad ground so check the grounds.

Q: I have a 1992 ford f150 and it keeps blowing the fuse that controls the interior lights, the radio, the gauge lights, and the speedometer. Now don't say the speedometer hooks in with a cable because it doesn't. It's a clip of wires that plug into it. Anyway I have taken apart the entire dashboard and tested for grounds and everything is getting ground and I even found where it grounds on the body. Sometimes the fuse pops as soon as u put it in and sometimes it takes ten minutes. I looked at all the wires and nothing seems to be broken or chafed or crossed. It will pop even when the radio and gauge cluster is unplugged and I have wiring diagrams and the wires run through the light switch and even of that's unplugged the fuse pops. I am getting fed up with this thing. Been tryin to figure it out for an entire day and got nowhere. Help is very much appreciated: My first thought would be that you don't have a high enough rated fuse plugged in. I know they're color-coded AND stamped with the amp ratingbut are you sure it's the right one? Have you gone up a size to see if that helps? If you have a short, going from a 10- to 15-amp fuse, for instance, won't really run the risk of damage—it'll still blow. If you're confident about the rating or going up a notch doesn't help, you might have to disconnect everything on that circuit and plug the components in one-at-a-time until you find what blows the fuse. Once you have a suspect, pop in a new fuse and plug in just that one thing. If it blows again with nothing else on, you know where your problem is. Good luck!

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