ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump

ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump System 1

ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 10000 set/month

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1.Structure of ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump Description

End Suction Centrifugal Pump complies fully to the European Standard BS EN733 / DIN24255 of performance and dimensions. They are used for pumping clean water or liquids similar to water, achieving wide application on plants, mines, city water supplies, air-conditioning coolers, firefighting system and irrigation. Pumps of the same model have different performance levels basing on different diameter after impeller trimming. Overall the whole series, there are only four sizes of shaft and five of bearing housing. As long as their bearing housings are of the same size, different pumps can interchange chief parts such as shaft, shaft sleeve, shaft seal, impeller nut, etc.

End Suction Centrifugal Pump is also very easy to be installed and maintained. Back pull-out design, driven through flexible coupling, so that pump casing and motor can remain in position while other spare parts are removed.

2.Main Features of ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump

• very easy to be installed and maintained

•Back pull-out design

•Driven through flexible coupling

•Customized design is available, OEM and ODM are welcomed.

•Horizontally and vertically installation as different pipeline system

3.ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump Specification

Material	Cast iron
Pump diameter	350-1600mm
Flow range	1~200L/s
Pressure range	0.2~2.25MPa
Motor power range	1.5~200kW
Inlet/outlet Diameter	DN50~DN200mm

Casing	Cast Iron Standard, Ductile Iron, Stainless Steel Optional
Impeller	Bronze Standard ,Cast Iron, Stainless Steel Optional
Shaft	ASTM420Standard,ASTM304,ASTM316,ASTM1045 Optional
Shaft Seal	Mechnical Seal, Gland Pakcing Optional

Flow rate	2-1100m3/h
Head	2-152m
Speed	1450 or 2900(50hz),1750 or 3500(60hz)
Working Pressure	1.6PMa or 2.0PMa

4.Picture of ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump

5.FAQ

① What is your product range?

Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage

pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe

water pump, boiler water pump, etc.

② Are you a manufacturer?

Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.

③ What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?

Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.

Q: I've been noticing a difference in the temperature gage lately. The quot;change oillight has also been coming on and I just had an oil change not even a month ago, and the car isn't even due back for at least another month. I noticed there's a green/blue liquid in my driveway today, too. I looked under the car and something is leaking or dripping around the passengers side front wheel. More so the passenger-middle side. I've been told it could be the water pump.: Don't go blowing cash on a water pump just yet; It may be just a leaking radiator or heater hose. It would be wise to change the thermostat and check the condition of the coolant. (right here before summer) Perhaps pressure test the cooling system...that will tell you right away if the impeller seal is bad in the water pump. Check the radiator hoses at that time... replace as necessary. if your (assumed) coolant leak is right around the passenger front wheel the pressure test could possibly reveal a freeze plug leak. (replacement required to fix that) The labor will cost around $150 plus/minus $20.-and thats not even a good guess. I tell you this: if you were in my circle of friends, I would do it for nothing: Thats what people do for each other. Anybody that knows you that has the tools and ability should do the same... Try this: if you have your oil changed at a quick lube, ask the manager which one of his guys would be qualified for such a sidejob... any gearhead will jump at he chance to help a lady out make sure the job is done right instead of some greasemonkey f*cking it up. It will cost you much less than standard labor rate and the extra coinage in his pocket doesn't hurt. I'm not bagging repair shops, they deserve to make a living too, but every nickle counts nowdays... Let him diagnose the problem(s), take him to Oreilleys to make sure you get the right parts, and buy him lunch..... Enjoy your summer...an overheated car and related repairs will turn it sour in a hurry. (edit) wow,... if you have the dexcool, then yes thats orange. There's not anything on that side of the vehicle that would be that color. short of discolored and moldy a/c condensation (highly unlikely) if its brake fluid you would know it by now. power steering is red or clear, Even though I consider myself highly experienced, I'm stumped.

Q: I think my water pump has crapped out on my 1997 Jeep Cherokee. I have been leaking coolant for a few days now and there is a puddle under my Jeep after I turn it off and my reserve tank keeps emptying out on me. I replaced the lower radiator hose and still the same problem. It is not over heating so I am wondering if it IS a water pump problem? If it is, could I do the work myself?: It does sound like the water pump. There is a weep hole on the pump body (behind the pulley). You can run your finger on the bottom side of the pump where the pulley shaft goes into the pump housing - it will be wet if there has been leakage. Replacement of the water pump is not all that difficult. You can call any parts store to get the cost of the pump. While you are in there, replace the serpentine belt that drives the pump and go ahead and replace the radiator hoses (that you haven't already replaced plus the heater hoses and any rubber item touching the coolant flow (this will save your having to look at it again anytime soon). I have replaced a lot of water pumps in my time, and it is not a huge job. You can get a manual at AutoZone or any parts store to help walk you through it. Good luck.

Q: I have taken off the fan, and radiator, and ect, and i'm down to this silver circle thing-the fan clutch i believe and black circualr piece that connects to the actual water pump. I need help getting the quot;fan clutchoff. I tried using a wrench and wrenching on this peice between that and the black piece, but i cant stop the black piece from moving. I tried this site called pelican or w.e, but they dont tell u how to do that. I'm stuck, plz help!: You need a viscous cooling fan spanner (32mm) and something to hold the water pump still. The cooling fan has a left hand thread by the way and will need a sharp blow with a rubber mallet to shift it. BMW have special tools for this job which are 11 5 030 and 11 5 040. Viscous cooling fan spanners are available in shops and I dare say you can find or make something to brace the water pump bolts. A large screwdriver or breaker bar have been known to work. Whichever method you use watch your knuckles!

Q: There are heard buzzing, but can not move and no death card, is not a bad capacitor, how much is the direct standard capacitance it?: The motor is sure of electricity, isn't it? Is there a low voltage or broken phase (three-phase motor), these cases will cause the motor does not turn, or low speed (easy to block), so should be measured with a universal meter. Maybe the boot capacitor is broken. Or smell the smell of burning. It might be a short circuit between the motor windings. (bearings should be hard to break). Look for repairs if you suggest. You may not be good. Oh, capacitor. You can measure good and bad with a universal watch. If the capacitor is replaced, it is better to choose the same capacitor as the original configuration parameter.

Q: i dont think that the water pump is out. i have a 88 evinrude outboard and the other day i noticed that the water was barley trickling out the hose. then it just stopped coming out the hose. it still comes out of the exhaust just fine. the motor is not get hot. is it ok if it still comes out the exhaust/ i will attemp to run a wire up in the hose to see if it is clogged later today. what do yous think: i use air pressure, but a piece of wire usually works.you may try to back flush it with a water hose.

Q: Here we have 3 sets of centrifugal pumps, as production water, 2 by 1, because the production is not allowed to stop, so we want to change for a pump, the original two pumps to stop, and three water pumps on the amount, and then stop the pump, but not on the third pumps the amount, do not know what the reason, the master to help, thank you very much..: The problem you are experiencing is stressThe above answer is only considered in the case of water absorptionJust imagine, two pumps are normal work, the same suction pipe, how can there be dissatisfaction with water or vacuum state?.According to my experience analysisYour system is three sets of parallel, lift and flow should be the same, if not the same, not in this discussion, the topic should be set up.Lift is the same, that is, in two or three units at the same time, the resulting system pressurization is the same, and water will increaseBut now your traffic is increasing at two units, but it will not increase at threeYou have selected pipeline system design, in the design of head flow under single condition is constant, if the increase in open water pump, the pressure is constant, increasing water content, according to the continuity equation Q = A X V, then the flow velocity in the tube will increase;But when the third pumps, 2Q becomes 3Q, normally velocity should be larger, but the Darcy formula shows that the velocity increases, extension resistance and local resistance will be increased, and the double square, so you can open third pumps for reasoning, when the resistance effect caused by the pipeline the increase of water flow in the pipeline can not be reused, the general formula of constant current, now the whole pipeline in turbulent stateThat is, third pumps to do the work in the water and pipe wall friction in the loss, and actually did not play a role in water supplyThe solution is to increase the flow rate by increasing the water supply pipeline

Q: me and my friends are contemplating going on a road trip.almost 20 hours of driving.but we dont have a water pump, can you drive without one?: whether it's safe depends on what part of town you'll be in after the first half hour, cause your engine will seize up stop running at that point. basically you'll convert a repairable engine into yard art.

Q: here is the problem with my water pump control switch settings. the water is being used, runs dry and stays off for sometimes 3 minutes or so.i realize the springs control the cut in and cut out. do i need to make the spring more compressed to make the pump come on sooner? or do i need to make the spring looser to make the switch come on sooner?when i read/hear about adjusting the cut in. the answers seem vague because i do not know the perspecitve of the spring.does compressing the spring make the swith flip easier? or does compressing the spring make the switch harder to flip on?i installed a new 30/50 switch today. My air tank was at 50 or so PSI. but i dropped it to about 30. is the goeal to make the entire full system 50 pounds? because after my pump cycles i get about 70 psi!!!: with the switch set to operate at 30/50 the tank should have 27 or 28 pounds of air with no water in tank and a faucet open with pump turned off...once this is set the pump will come on at 30 and off at 50 if it goes higher than this the switch is bad or the adjustments have been changed....tightening the tall spring turns both cut in and cut off pressure higher...loosening the tall spring turns both cut in and cut off lower....the short spring sets the difference between the two...tightening the shorth spring raises cut off pressure only...loosening the short spring lowers cut off pressure only....

Q: how can i choose a water pump that is truely on demand as in shuts off when not needed automaticly i purchaced one that claimed it was a quot;demandpump is mine defective or not a true on demand pump?: RV section is probably under cars and transportation, others. On demand pumps are quite common and used in many RV's.