ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 set/month
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1.Structure of ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump Description
End Suction Centrifugal Pump complies fully to the European Standard BS EN733 / DIN24255 of performance and dimensions. They are used for pumping clean water or liquids similar to water, achieving wide application on plants, mines, city water supplies, air-conditioning coolers, firefighting system and irrigation. Pumps of the same model have different performance levels basing on different diameter after impeller trimming. Overall the whole series, there are only four sizes of shaft and five of bearing housing. As long as their bearing housings are of the same size, different pumps can interchange chief parts such as shaft, shaft sleeve, shaft seal, impeller nut, etc.
End Suction Centrifugal Pump is also very easy to be installed and maintained. Back pull-out design, driven through flexible coupling, so that pump casing and motor can remain in position while other spare parts are removed.
2.Main Features of ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump
• very easy to be installed and maintained
•Back pull-out design
•Driven through flexible coupling
•Customized design is available, OEM and ODM are welcomed.
•Horizontally and vertically installation as different pipeline system
3.ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump Specification
Material | Cast iron |
Pump diameter | 350-1600mm |
Flow range | 1~200L/s |
Pressure range | 0.2~2.25MPa |
Motor power range | 1.5~200kW |
Inlet/outlet Diameter | DN50~DN200mm |
Casing | Cast Iron Standard, Ductile Iron, Stainless Steel Optional |
Impeller | Bronze Standard ,Cast Iron, Stainless Steel Optional |
Shaft | ASTM420Standard,ASTM304,ASTM316,ASTM1045 Optional |
Shaft Seal | Mechnical Seal, Gland Pakcing Optional |
Flow rate | 2-1100m3/h |
Head | 2-152m |
Speed | 1450 or 2900(50hz),1750 or 3500(60hz) |
Working Pressure | 1.6PMa or 2.0PMa |
4.Picture of ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump
5.FAQ
① What is your product range?
Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage
pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe
water pump, boiler water pump, etc.
② Are you a manufacturer?
Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.
③ What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?
Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.
- Q: Can I put in fluid and drive to the Service Station or should I have it towed? The fluid flows out as fast as I put it in. Thanks!
- If your water pump is blown you should have it towed to a mechanic that you prefer to do the work, because it will need replaced. Don't drive it there because the belt that runs the water pump also runs the pumps that allow your brakes and steering to operate. I just had this happen to me and did exactly that.
- Q: how do you check the water pump? We started the engine with water running through the bunny ears and no water is running out.
- Visually is the only way to check it. The water pump is located at the top of the lower unit. The lower unit has to come off to access the water pump. It's a fairly basic project for an enthusiastic DIYer with basic tools and a service manual. Once the L/U comes off, might as well install a new impeller, given the time effort to drop the L/U, not much sense re-installing a used one. first, remove the cowl and check the tell-tale outlet for a blockage.
- Q: The flow of the pump will be reduced, the speed will change, the power of the motor will change?
- 1, this pump flow reduction is not the reason for speed. Because it is not matching the motor frequency conversion, the frequency of power supply unchanged, the motor speed will not change.2, the flow of water pump down, the reason may be that the impeller due to cavitation or wear and tear smaller, second, the gap between the impeller housing change, and the impeller plug foreign bodies, and some of the suction port leak.3, it is possible that the whole system resistance increases, so that the work point of the pump left.
- Q: my marine engine doesnt pump water can you tell me some faults can be thanks vic
- Depends on what engine and what pump check the impeller to see if it is bad.
- Q: I posted this earlier but nobody really answered my question . if my water pump is clearly on the serpentine belt I t need to replace the timing chain to get to it correct? The bolts holding the pump in are around it near the timing chain cover but they don't look like they are inside it. the pump is clearly driven by the serpentine so should I be fine not removing my timing belt to fix the pump? its leaking. Also I know you should replace the timing chain+tensioner but I inspected the chain 400 miles ago its properly tensioned the belt is in good condition its a chain it will last the life of the car its not the cheap belts.
- If you can change the pump without removing the timing belt then go for it, you are lucky. I don't replace the tensioner unless it needs to be replaced, usually they last a long time. I replace the timing belts every 60,000 miles, but usually you can go to 80,000 maximum but I don't like to take it to the last minute, not safe.
- Q: The submersible, intermittent pump for my household water well, which is undergound out in the yard, “bangs” when it starts and stops, and vibrates the pipes when it runs. Any idea what might be causing this, or how to make it stop doing this? This all started about 5 months ago and has been getting worse.
- It sounds to me like water hammer. There are a few ways to address it, probably the easiest is to add an expansion tank. To find out, try connecting a garden hose somewhere in the system, preferably a cold water pipe. Drain all the water from the hose and put a nozzle or plug on the end so the air can't escape, then turn the valve on. The air in the hose will act as a cushion and, if water hammer is the problem, you won't hear it while the hose is connected. That is not a permanent solution, just a simple test that might give you an answer. Good luck
- Q: guys i have a mini-water pump.....i wanna pump kerosene instead of water,to make a mini stove,on my own..my doubt is ...if the water pump is used to pump kerosene,will the kerosene ignite inside the pump itself or will cause any problem..i just want the pump to pump kerosene....will it ignite inside of the pump,because the pump runs on electricity....can u clear my doubt
- Is the motor of the pump built-in so that the pumped fluid flows through the motor also? If the answer to the question is yes then do not use the pump for pumping kerosene. However, if the pumped liquid does not come in contact with motor then you can use the pump for pumping kerosene. But ensure that the pump shaft seal is of mechanical type (so that kerosene does not leak from the shaft sealing area) with parts (specially any rubber parts) compatible with hydrocarbons (use viton rubber parts instead of EPDM)
- Q: i just moved into a house that has a small (about 40 gal) pond. i wanted to put fish in it. i have everything but the water pump. i've been looking around and i've found many solar fountain heads (about $30) that are pretty cheap and then i found a solar oxygenator for $100. which one would help the fish more? flowing water or just oxygen?
- Flowing water adds oxygen into the water... So Id go with that one.
- Q: When the pump is running with frequency conversion, the instantaneous power is greater than the power frequency operation, and the actual flow and lift are less than the power frequency. When running, the efficiency is very low. Why?
- There is a running curve for the fan and water pump.Enough is enough
- Q: Motor has over 200k miles. Water pump took a dump. Gear is very wobbly! primary timing chain tensioner off the right bank hasn't any tension on chain at all! Crank turns but doesn't turn the chain. So motor is way out of time for sure now.Found small piece of aluminum and 2 -1/2pieces of appears to be a spring pin. Am I correct to assume these pieces are from the water pump? A new chain and water pump I can see doing on this old motor! But? Any suggestions on what to do next before I waste my money? What kind of compression reading can I get with all the plugs out and manually turning the crank? Short answers of scrap it not welcomed! I'll determine that after I'm satisfied it's truly bad! Thanks!
- I also own a 2001 Intrepid and recently had a water pump go bad which also broke my timing chain. The pieces of aluminum you found are probably valves or valve springs from the head. Mine broke every vavle and spring on one head when my engine jumped time and a few more on the other head that is probably what your seeing. Also you don't want to check for compression by turning the crank manually. It is an expensive job to fix but the cars are great but I wouldn't spend too much on them because they only go for about $3000-3700 in great condition nowadays. Good Luck
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ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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