• ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump System 3
ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump

ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
10000 set/month

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1.Structure of ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump Description

End Suction Centrifugal Pump complies fully to the European Standard BS EN733 / DIN24255 of performance and dimensions. They are used for pumping clean water or liquids similar to water, achieving wide application on plants, mines, city water supplies, air-conditioning coolers, firefighting system and irrigation. Pumps of the same model have different performance levels basing on different diameter after impeller trimming. Overall the whole series, there are only four sizes of shaft and five of bearing housing. As long as their bearing housings are of the same size, different pumps can interchange chief parts such as shaft, shaft sleeve, shaft seal, impeller nut, etc.

End Suction Centrifugal Pump is also very easy to be installed and maintained. Back pull-out design, driven through flexible coupling, so that pump casing and motor can remain in position while other spare parts are removed.

2.Main Features of ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump

very easy to be installed and maintained

Back pull-out design

•Driven through flexible coupling

•Customized design is available, OEM and ODM are welcomed.

•Horizontally and vertically installation as different pipeline system

3.ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump Specification

 

Material

Cast iron

Pump diameter

350-1600mm

Flow range

1~200L/s

Pressure range

0.2~2.25MPa

Motor power range

1.5~200kW

Inlet/outlet Diameter

DN50~DN200mm

 

Casing

Cast Iron Standard, Ductile Iron, Stainless Steel Optional

Impeller

Bronze Standard ,Cast Iron, Stainless Steel Optional

Shaft

ASTM420Standard,ASTM304,ASTM316,ASTM1045 Optional

Shaft Seal

Mechnical Seal, Gland Pakcing Optional

 

Flow rate

2-1100m3/h

Head

2-152m

Speed

1450 or 2900(50hz),1750 or 3500(60hz)

Working Pressure

1.6PMa or 2.0PMa

 

4.Picture of ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump

ISO Standard Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Pump 

5.FAQ

What is your product range?

Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage

pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe

water pump, boiler water pump, etc.

Are you a manufacturer?

Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.

What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?

Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.

 

 

 

Q: I have a 99 Olds Intrigue With the 3.8L (Vin K) engine. I have a belt driven water pump, but i was wondering if there is a fuse or relay that is associated with this water pump. I remember knocking a fuse out on accident while changing my radiator and now the water pump appears to not be working
Sir,you appear to lack basic mechanical skills.Do not ever lift the hood of your car again.
Q: Our CRN series pumps used in the 414V 480V 60Hz 60Hz power supply, what would be the effect? Is not the head can be reduced, there is no water pump and lift what voltage relationship?
In the case of power, W=F*S. That is, the work done per unit time pump = the gravity of the water flow * the displacement of the waterIt can be seen that:1, the power is certain, the head and the flow is inversely proportional.2, the greater the power, the greater the product of the head and flow.Therefore, when the flow is minimum, the pump head is the maximum; when the head is the minimum, the flow is the maximum.
Q: My fiance's 2002 Cougar is overheating and we can't seem to diagnose the problem. As soon as she touches the gas pedal, the meter shoots to quot;Hquot;, but when we sit at a red light, it returns to center. I tried googling a few things and I've gotten a few things about the water pump, but I know next to nothing about cars. Where is it so I can look at it and feel dumb about STILL not being able to do anything? =D
Leave the water pump alone! It sounds to me like your gauge is malfunctioning. Every so often an electrical gauge will fail and give strange readings. It could either be the sensor that reads your coolant temp or the gauge body itself. Your car cannot go from overheating to fine while stationary at a red light. Take it to a shop (that specializes in electrical, they're out there) and tell them the temp gauge is acting wacky. If you INSIST to know the location of your water pump...should be on the passenger side of the car mounted to the engine. It's either driven by an accessory belt or the timing belt, I can't remember at the moment. Here's a trick also. Water pumps are designed to leak when they fail. See if you can find coolant spilling out of anywhere a few ounces at a time. Good luck!
Q: what makes pump come on every 10 seconds when water is on
You should have a pressure tank or bladder tank (same thing) in the plumbing after the pump. If you do have a pressure tank it could be waterlogged.. most all tanks in the last 20 years have been bladder type tanks. the bladder may have leaked inside and filled the tank with water leaving no room for expansion. it should have a valve on the top of it like a valve stem on a tire. Check the pressure on it with the pump off. it should be about 4 pounds more than your pump cut on pressure. Or you could have a bad pressure switch. There are LOTS of kinds of pressure switches, so I won't even try to tell you how to check it. but the pump should run till the pressure is built up in the tank then sut off and not come back on again till the pressure on the lines is lowered to the cut in pressure on the pressure switch.without more specific information or a pic I can't help much more. First thought is pressure tank needs checked or replaced. Good luck.
Q: 2 inches of water pump is generally equipped with high-power motors
3KW2 pole asynchronous motor
Q: Hi there: my water pump is leaking, and my coolant lelel keeps droping, same problem. Im not sure if coolant flows through the water pump?
It sure does. That's what gets coolant from the radiator into the engine. Water pumps are a little weird. Sometimes you just get a dud, sometimes the one in your car never ever quits. I've got one of the latter, my dad went through about five of the former (on one car). Check your manual. If the pump isn't built into the block, it may be pretty simple to switch it out for yourself. If it's an inside-the-block kind, I'd recommend letting the shop do it. Replace all the old gaskets with new ones. Be sure to scrape off every bit of the old gasket, torque the bolts to the correct level, drive it for a few hours and torque them again. Happy motoring!
Q: I just bought a house a little more then a month ago and just received my first electric bill and it's OUTRAGEOUS!! I have a feeling my electric pump is doing most of my water heating which I found out it is (currently it's on 24 hours a day .. I didn't know). Now, I called a solar company in my area that deals with Hartell pumps, they said if the Hartell pump is working, it should be vibrating .. mines is not .. are they correct? They also said it only works when the sun is out, so by evening, I have to switch on my electric water heater. I'm just checking to see if I'm receiving the correct information before I time my electric water heater .. since every other local solar company I called are unfamiliar with Hartell pumps.
OK, well your question is a bit confusing and I am not sure if it is because you don't understand how your system works. Your hartell pump pumps water. It does not produce heat. Your water heater heats water. It is a backup to your solar panel system. If on the other hand you have a heat pump as a back up source of heat this could be an entirely different matter and you are best at providing a model number which should be stamped on the part. We need to start again. Is your system for solar hot water or for general heating? Is it a system in a cold climate where freezing is an issue. Is it a pump down system or a system that circulates antifreeze in the solar loop. The reason all this is significant is that if you are paying a lot in electricity then something is not working. The first question has to be is it a design problem, a mechanical problem or an operational problem. You may need more hot water storage or more solar panels, you may need to replace parts, or you may simply need to turn the right valves (This would be the case where you have a grounding loop to keep the solar panels from overheating in the summer.)
Q: Hello online mechanics! You guys have saved me a lot of money on my car, so now I have a new question! I have a 97 Ford Contour and lately since it's been cool in NJ, I've been hearing a tapping coming from the timing belt cover, but when the car warms up, there's no sound. I took the car to my mechanic and he says that I need to have the timing belt replaced, the pulleys adjusted, and the water pump changed. The price for doing the timing belt was $400 (including adjusting the pulleys) and $700 for the timing and the water pump. My question is ; do I need to do the water pump? He says that if you do the timing belt, that you should do the water pump too, but should I if there's nothing wrong with it ( as far as I know) and I'm not looking for the added expense? I thought if it ain't broke don't fix it still applies to things, or am I mistaken? Thanks guys gals! In these tough economic times, I'm not looking to spend any more than is necessary!
ask some of your friends if they have a mechanic that they trust . Take the car to them and see if you get the same answer ?
Q: I have a fairly new jetted tub. I stupidly used bubble bath 2 days before and have since read that it is not good, but just because of the amount of bubbles, not that it will actually harm the system. The electrical circuit is not tripped. I hear this clicking but the pump doesn't turn on. Any ideas? Do I need a new pump?
Also may want to check inside the access door underneath some have a cord plugged into a GFI receptacle that may be tripped. May want to check it just in case.

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