Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 set/month
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1.Structure of Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump Description
End Suction Centrifugal Pump complies fully to the European Standard BS EN733 / DIN24255 of performance and dimensions. They are used for pumping clean water or liquids similar to water, achieving wide application on plants, mines, city water supplies, air-conditioning coolers, firefighting system and irrigation. Pumps of the same model have different performance levels basing on different diameter after impeller trimming. Overall the whole series, there are only four sizes of shaft and five of bearing housing. As long as their bearing housings are of the same size, different pumps can interchange chief parts such as shaft, shaft sleeve, shaft seal, impeller nut, etc.
End Suction Centrifugal Pump is also very easy to be installed and maintained. Back pull-out design, driven through flexible coupling, so that pump casing and motor can remain in position while other spare parts are removed.
2.Main Features of Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump
• very easy to be installed and maintained
•Back pull-out design
•Driven through flexible coupling
•Customized design is available, OEM and ODM are welcomed.
•Horizontally and vertically installation as different pipeline system
3.Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump Specification
Material | Cast iron |
Pump diameter | 350-1600mm |
Flow range | 1~200L/s |
Pressure range | 0.2~2.25MPa |
Motor power range | 1.5~200kW |
Inlet/outlet Diameter | DN50~DN200mm |
Casing | Cast Iron Standard, Ductile Iron, Stainless Steel Optional |
Impeller | Bronze Standard ,Cast Iron, Stainless Steel Optional |
Shaft | ASTM420Standard,ASTM304,ASTM316,ASTM1045 Optional |
Shaft Seal | Mechnical Seal, Gland Pakcing Optional |
Flow rate | 2-1100m3/h |
Head | 2-152m |
Speed | 1450 or 2900(50hz),1750 or 3500(60hz) |
Working Pressure | 1.6PMa or 2.0PMa |
4.Picture of Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump
5.FAQ
① What is your product range?
Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage
pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe
water pump, boiler water pump, etc.
② Are you a manufacturer?
Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.
③ What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?
Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.
- Q: About 3 weeks ago our water stopped. We replaced the switch at the pump and it was fine. Today when I was running water, it stopped again. I went and flipped the breaker on it, but it still didn't come on. About 20 minutes later, it started working again. Have you ever had this happen or do you know what the problem could be?
- Sounds like its overheating. There is a fuse that will automatically shut off if it gets to hot.
- Q: My fiance's 2002 Cougar is overheating and we can't seem to diagnose the problem. As soon as she touches the gas pedal, the meter shoots to quot;Hquot;, but when we sit at a red light, it returns to center. I tried googling a few things and I've gotten a few things about the water pump, but I know next to nothing about cars. Where is it so I can look at it and feel dumb about STILL not being able to do anything? =D
- Leave the water pump alone! It sounds to me like your gauge is malfunctioning. Every so often an electrical gauge will fail and give strange readings. It could either be the sensor that reads your coolant temp or the gauge body itself. Your car cannot go from overheating to fine while stationary at a red light. Take it to a shop (that specializes in electrical, they're out there) and tell them the temp gauge is acting wacky. If you INSIST to know the location of your water pump...should be on the passenger side of the car mounted to the engine. It's either driven by an accessory belt or the timing belt, I can't remember at the moment. Here's a trick also. Water pumps are designed to leak when they fail. See if you can find coolant spilling out of anywhere a few ounces at a time. Good luck!
- Q: Hey all--I just paid $900 at the Volkswagen dealership to get my timing belt, water pump, rollers, and air pump replaced. Is that a good deal? Also, how does the timing belt replacement relate to performance? I noticed my car was a little faster than before (maybe it's because I was driving another car for 2 days).
- It makes your car not die. It prevents damage to the engine if you either overheat it because your water pump's died, or damage to the valves and lifters if the timing belt breaks. This is exactly the peventive maintenance the car needs to continue providing reliable transportation for you. I've heard some horror stories from people who have neglected to do this maintenance. They often need a whole new engine, or if they're lucky, just a new head for their engine. $4000 later they're fine. So yeah, $900 was a bargain.
- Q: I replaced the water pump on my 1997 acura cl 3.0 v6 vtec. I set the timing how alldata said to. (Lined up marks on timing drive pulley and both cam pulleys) and put it all back together. Now when I start it the motor runs rough for about 45 seconds then it smooths out but won't rev past 3000 rpm. What are some possibilites it could be?
- reset the ecu, by disconnecting the battery cables off the battery for 30 mins and then reconnect them and see what happens
- Q: Not sure of the year model but think it is a 1991 to 1995 Jayco 2500FS bumper pull trailer. I bought it to put on a deer lease. One of the previous owners had taken out the water tank which I plan on replacing. I can't find the water pump to see if I need to replace it as well. Also, if you know about how the pump knows when to kick on i.e. pressure switch, push button or what. I know I could take it to have repairs done but enjoy the diy thing. I am in the process of finding out the exact year model as well. Thanks!
- having had many travel trailers the water pump is usually in a cabinet or under a bed or couch with a lot of plastic water lines near where you screw the water hose into the side of the trailer. and they are usually a preset psi from the factory so that is usually nothing to have to worry about and most have an on off switch located in the traier by the kitchen sink.And if the hot water heater is no good look into a tankless water heater it will save you money in the long run but initially you have to have a vent installed up through the roof away from a roof air vent. Another suggestion everytime you move a travel trailer they get the crap pounded out of them and someone needs to go up on the roof with a ladder and/or a plank that goes across the width so there is no weight standing on a roof to make dents or pop seams. Use some plastic stuff like plasticote available at wal mart after you move the trailer and set it up go up and make sure to double coat any of the seams that need it. I crank the heat up inside the trailer and do a double coat the heat rising will put a skin on the plasticote in a few hours instead of 12 or more. and the double coat gets any cracks missed the first time around. After that check it once a year if the trailer stays there.
- Q: 1998 jeep cherokee water pump
- Chuck has an excellent step by step write-up on doing the job yourself. Is that your question, how do I change my w/p? If not then please edit to help us help you. (I sound like Jerry McGuire) On Chucks write up I just never wait for the RTV to set up at all just put it on and snug down the bolts.
- Q: I think my water pump is leaking and I want to replace it, but I can't figure out how to get the pulleys off. There is a large nut on the shaft that the pulleys are on, and I can't figure out how to remove it, or if the nut is attached to the shaft, and the entire shaft is supposed to come out, or how it's set up. Please help. Pictures would be great if possible. Thanks!
- With the belts ON - take a big wrench ( 12 crescent or ) and place it on the large nut holding the fan on. Carefully smack it counter clockwise, (lefty loosey) until it comes loose, The threads for it are on the pulley. remove the 4 or 5 bolts holding the pulley, ( a vice grip on the large threads will hold the pulley to help remove the pulley bolts. Remove the water pump. Clean the gasket mating area GOOD - when you think you have it clean - clean it again - You do NOT want to find it leaking when you are finished. Some prefer RTV silicone sealant -- I prefer permatex #2 non-hardening. Tighten all the bolts only slightly before the two final torque's are completed - do not forget to tighten in proper sequence similar to installing a wheel, (bolt 1 - 3 - 2 - 4), so as not to cause undue stress on one side or part of the new pump.
- Q: What is a 1 inch water pump?
- The outlet is 1 inches (25MM) of the water pump
- Q: What is the reason for the overload of the water pump indicator?
- In this case, first check the frequency of the pump in the acceleration and deceleration time, to see how many seconds, 7.5KW10 seconds or so, 11KW 10 to 15 seconds, to see whether the peak water supply, low voltage and so on! Hope to be of some help to you!
- Q: when i drove my truck after about 15 minutes i was parked and let my truck idle afetr about a minute of idling my truck stalled and when i turned it back of it was squeeking and made some noises for about ten seconds and then stopped. I noticed that the pully on my fan coming from the water pump was wobbling. my tempuratue was still normal what could cause this i am suspecting taht the bearings in my water pump went?
- Ram Water Pump
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Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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