High Performance WCB Safety Valve For Steam Service

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Application:
A pressure relief valve (PRV) is a safety device that relieves overpressure in a vessel or system. When the pressure of vessel or system increased beyond the specified design pressure or maximum allowable working pressure, PRV will be opened automaticly to relief the overpressure for proteding the vessel or system. The PRV will be closed if the pressure reached specified design pressure so that to ensure the normal operation and protect the vessel or system.

Our Pressure Relief Valve has been designed and manuractured according to following Standard:

♦ ISO 4123-1 Safety Devices for Portection Against Excessve Pressure
♦ API STD 526 Flanged Steel Pressure Relief Valves
♦ API STD 527 Seat Tightness of Pressure Relief Valves

♦ ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code Section VIII Division 1, Rules for Construction of Pressure Vessels

Peformance:
♦ Type: Conventional, Bellows

♦ Size:1" D 2"- 8" T 10"
♦ Class:150lb~2500lb
♦ Temperature:-268~+538°C

♦ Fluid: Gas, Steam, and Liquid
♦ Material: Carbon steel, Stainless steel, Alloy steel
♦ The allowable tolerance of the set pressure: ≤±3%
♦ Overpressure: ≤10%(gas)/≤20%(liquid)
♦ Blowdown: ≤10%(gas)/≤20%(liquid)

♦ Tightness: conforms to API STD 527

Features:

♦The solid nozzle is screwed into the body, which makes the maintenance easy.
♦ The shape of the disc holder has been designed to enhance the effect of the fluid thrust for an instant lift of the disc.
♦ Blowdown control is provided with adjustable nuzzle ring only.
♦ The adequate terials and clearance between disc holder and guide , spindle and adjusting screw assures disc to lift successfully.

♦ The surface of both the disc and the nozzle seat are deposited with Stellite. Excellent flatness and surface finish of the seating surfaces by precision machining and lapping assure pressure relief valve to have high degree of seat tightness and long using life.

♦ The bellows of balanced bellows pressure relief valves can not only avoid and effect of variable back pressure in the system , but also protect spring and other trim components from corrosive media.

♦ Materials are chosen carefully , and the manufacture of the spring and the bellows has strict technological process. Each of them is tested and checked strictly.

Q: Chev 350 in marine use. Made horiffic exhaust noise, especially with increasing throttle. Cam seems fine still, but the rocker on #5 exhaust was somewhat off to the side but still touching the side of the valve stem...but stem bent. What would cause this and is this the cause of the loud combustion sound (like a spark plug out of it's hole?: do a compression check on #5 cyl. also do a cylinder leakage test. You can do this by taking the schraeder valve out of the end of the hose for the compression gauge. then apply compressed air into the cylinder with the piston at TCD. If the exhaust valve is bent and not sealing the air will escape out the exhaust. Sounds like maybe the valve stem to valve guide clearance is too tight and the valve hung open in the guide and smacked the piston. Also with the compressed air in the cylinder you can remove the valve spring and rotate the valve and slide it up and down in the guide to check for binding in the valve guide. Either way it kind of sounds like you'll have to pull the head to replace the bent valve.

Q: my dad's friend died, and dad had been keeping some valves of his. now we've been left with about 400 valves and i'm going to sell them.my main question is what are they used for? i need to write a description for ebay but have no idea what they're for! anyone know?also, how much should i sell them for? on the box it says 11 shillings, which i worked out as ?1.32, but how much should i sell them for on ebay? there's prices on ebay that are about 50p to ?1.50 for most of them, but some are about ?7 but have no bids at all. how much should i start the bidding at?also, if you could give me any other information that i should put in the description, i would really appretiate it :)they are mainly 'Mullard' valves (the company name) but some are 'MAZDA'thanks! :D: sound like the needle and seat in the carb is caught open and your new gasoline pump with solid tension is flooding your carb. take carb aside sparkling all passages with carb air purifier and then blow out all holes and passages with compressed air could restore subject.

Q: Between these two Blow off valves around the same price, what would be the best choice for a pt cruiser.: The Mopar Performance blow off valve is really going to be your best bet if the two are roughly the same price. The reason I say that is because the Mopar unit is designed to fit onto that car, therefore it is engineered to release excess pressure at a safe level for that engine. The Greddy unit is also going to typically require modification to make it fit and function properly. Unfortunately, what they don't tell you about universal units is the reason they are universal is because they don't fit anything until you make them to fit, you just have enough material and hardware to get creative with it. If you are looking to extensively modify your engine, then it may benefit you to go with the universal unit and just wait until you have your piping cut exactly the way you want it, this may give you better location or clearance using the aftermarket unit, but otherwise like I said, I would go with the factory performance BOV. If you have any further questions about your cruiser, please feel free to email me, I have had a cruiser for a couple of years now and have also done lots of customizing to cruisers for friends.

Q: i have a 1970 chevy sb 350 and i need to set the valve lash what is the proper method and where do i start? everything is stock!: Just read this again last light. The motor should be hot an normalized before you start. With one valve cover off clean the cylinder head of all old cork gasket residue lay a new gasket on the head and screw the valve cover bolts through the gasket into the head a few threads. There are companies who sell neat little clips that slide on the push-rod end of the rocker arm to reduce the leakage of oil from the push-rods through the ends of the rocker arms. We're going to hear all sorts of whining and disagreement here but Chevrolet hydraulic valve lifters must be adjusted with the engine running. It's written in a factory overhaul book. The oil pressure from the oil pump has to adequately pump-up the hydraulic valve lifters so you can get proper adjustment. Using 3/8 a deep well socket and a long extension, loosen counter clockwise the center rocker-arm nut slowly till you hear the rocker arm clatter. There's two trains of thought how and why the center not should be adjusted. GM says to *very slowly turn the center nut till the clatter disappears. Slowely continue turning the center nut 3/4 more turn clockwise. William Tyler Grumpy Jenkins (Chevrolet race engine builder) always said to turn the center nut to stop the clatter plus 1/8 of a turn more. He did this so the plungers inside the lifters were extended nearly all the way out. This was done to reduce hydraulic lifter pump-up and valve float at high RPM. For the detractors who don't think this is correct, pull the valve covers off a 265, 283, 327 or a 350 with hydraulic lifters after the engine has been off for 30 minutes. You will see every rocker arm is holding the valves in the closed position. It's impossible to adjust the valves with the engine off.

Q: i have a leak on the front of that valve cover and the oil is going down to the headers,,how can i fix the problem.?how do i install da gasket do i need any special things??thanx for tha help: its okorder /

Q: Last year an echo revealed severe aortic valve regurgitation with low ef of 37 but ecg was normal. i am 36 yrs old. I have noticed that i often have chest pain when i lie on my left (especially after a heavy drinking or if my bp is high) but the pain subsides when i lie on my right or back. Is it possible that my aortic valve only leaks when i lie on my left side, if so, can I continue living a normal life without needing valve replacement surgery if avoid lieing on my left side. or i'm i fooling myself, is the heart damage progressing silently?: Hello, You don't tell us *why* your doctors think, you developed this problem with your aortic valve in the first place? Has there been any infection of the valve with germs, (bacterial endocarditis)? Did you have Rheumatic Fever as a child? Were you born, with stenosis or regurgitation of your aortic valve? Do you have abnormally early, clogging-up of your artery-linings with cholesterol?

Q: overrun clutch solenoid valve dtc definitions code P1760: Description The overrun clutch solenoid valve is activated by the TCM in response to signals sent from the park/neutral position (PNP) switch, overdrive control switch, vehicle speed and throttle position Will then be controlled. TCM TERMINALS AND REFERENCE VALUE ON BOARD DIAGNOSIS LOGIC Diagnostic trouble code O/R CLTCH SOL/CIRC with CONSULT-II or P1760 without CONSULT-II is detected when TCM detects an improper voltage drop when it tries to operate the solenoid valve. POSSIBLE CAUSE Check the following items. Harness or connectors (The solenoid circuit is open or shorted.) Overrun clutch solenoid valve DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) CONFIRMATION PROCEDURE CAUTION: Always drive vehicle at a safe speed. NOTE: If DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE CONFIRMATION PROCEDURE has been previously conducted, always turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 5 seconds before conducting the next test. TESTING CONDITION: Always drive vehicle on a level road to improve accuracy of test. After the repair, perform the following procedure to confirm the malfunction is eliminated. WITH CONSULT-II Turn ignition switch ON and select DATA MONITOR mode for `ENGINE with CONSULT-II. Start engine. Accelerate vehicle to a speed of more than 10 km/h (6 MPH) with D position (O/D ON). Release accelerator pedal completely with D position (O/D OFF). WITH GST Follow the procedure With CONSULT-II. WIRING DIAGRAM - AT - ORVCSV Diagnostic Procedure 1: CHECK VALVE RESISTANCE 2: CHECK VALVE OPERATION 3: CHECK POWER SOURCE CIRCUIT 4: CHECK DTC 5: CHECK TCM INSPECTION This isn't something you want to do in your driveway. Take it to a decent mechanic and they should have it knocked out in about an hour or less, if it's the same one I'm thinking of.

Q: I got a french horn, but don't know if I can just use the valve oil I use for my trumpet. please help, thnx in advance :D: Yes and no. Most pro repair shops use a heavier oil on the bearings and your valve oil on the inside of the valve. Confused? On both ends of the valve are the real friction points, the bearings. One can be seen under the valve cap. Take the cap off and push the valve, the little post you see moving in the middle is the bearing. The other one is on the underside. It comes out of the valve body and has the string post screwed on it. The only point to oil the bottom bearing is that little crack you see where it comes out of the valve body. You put a drop of sewing machine oil on those 2 bearing spots, 3 in 1 oil also works. Then pull a valve slide and put a few drops of valve oil down into the valve. That is how it is done. BTW, there is no difference between valve oil and rotor oil most of the time.

Q: my mid eighties GM full size car with a 305 just started to have a problem...it runs fine at idle.....runs rough/sluggish at speed......when I take my foot off the gas there is a fast rattle in the engine.........and sometimes the engine likes to idle fast.....I replaced the catalytic converter last year ...........so now I am thinking of changing the egr valve....there is no service engine soon light on and this car is a mid eighties so no obd 2 system on this car......any other ideas? thanks: EGR valve got sooty,and rusty and dirty and then they dont work right. They either dont open or they get stuck open and cause the car to run lousey. If the valve has been i the car since the 80's it is probably about time to either clean it or change it. do you have haynes or chilton manual for the car? they explain alot.

Q: like my Acura has a 16v 4clyinder engine , and i dont know what valves does , the more vavles the faster?: the more valves, the more complicated the engine, but yes, more power. a regular 4cyl engine has 8 valves, or 8V. 1 intake valve, 1 exhaust valve. (4x2=8) in a 16v engine, it can be 2 intake valves, 2 exhaust valves 4x(2x2)=16 there are engines with up to 32 valves, those are usually in the 8cyl engines. as a valve opens, it allows air into the combustion chamber, after the burn, the exhaust valve opens to let the burnt fuel out and thru the tailpipe. the faster the air can excape, the faster new air can enter. so more valves, more power. problem is, if they bend or break, very expensive to repair.

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