High Performance WCB Pressure Relief Valve

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Application:
A pressure relief valve (PRV) is a safety device that relieves overpressure in a vessel or system. When the pressure of vessel or system increased beyond the specified design pressure or maximum allowable working pressure, PRV will be opened automaticly to relief the overpressure for proteding the vessel or system. The PRV will be closed if the pressure reached specified design pressure so that to ensure the normal operation and protect the vessel or system.

Our Pressure Relief Valve has been designed and manuractured according to following Standard:

♦ ISO 4123-1 Safety Devices for Portection Against Excessve Pressure
♦ API STD 526 Flanged Steel Pressure Relief Valves
♦ API STD 527 Seat Tightness of Pressure Relief Valves

♦ ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code Section VIII Division 1, Rules for Construction of Pressure Vessels

Peformance:
♦ Type: Conventional, Bellows

♦ Size:1" D 2"- 8" T 10"
♦ Class:150lb~2500lb
♦ Temperature:-268~+538°C

♦ Fluid: Gas, Steam, and Liquid
♦ Material: Carbon steel, Stainless steel, Alloy steel
♦ The allowable tolerance of the set pressure: ≤±3%
♦ Overpressure: ≤10%(gas)/≤20%(liquid)
♦ Blowdown: ≤10%(gas)/≤20%(liquid)

♦ Tightness: conforms to API STD 527

Features:

♦The solid nozzle is screwed into the body, which makes the maintenance easy.
♦ The shape of the disc holder has been designed to enhance the effect of the fluid thrust for an instant lift of the disc.
♦ Blowdown control is provided with adjustable nuzzle ring only.
♦ The adequate terials and clearance between disc holder and guide , spindle and adjusting screw assures disc to lift successfully.

♦ The surface of both the disc and the nozzle seat are deposited with Stellite. Excellent flatness and surface finish of the seating surfaces by precision machining and lapping assure pressure relief valve to have high degree of seat tightness and long using life.

♦ The bellows of balanced bellows pressure relief valves can not only avoid and effect of variable back pressure in the system , but also protect spring and other trim components from corrosive media.

♦ Materials are chosen carefully , and the manufacture of the spring and the bellows has strict technological process. Each of them is tested and checked strictly.

Q:when heater heats water there is a small leak thru the releif valve. need answrers to possible reasons for malfuntion. leak is not continous.: Have you tried opening the valve for a couple seconds? Sometimes that will clean out the crud causing the valve to leak.

Q:need a different pump for? Is this some improvement on the old valve?: There are schrader valves which are bigger diameter and are used also for automotive tires. They have a spring-loaded center pin that gets pushed down and opened when a inflating head is used. The spring is what keeps the air in the tube. The presta valve is the skinnier one. It does not rely on a spring to keep the valve close. The air pressure inside the tube keeps the valve closed. Generally, less expensive bikes use schraders while better bikes use prestas. All decent pumps have pump heads that accomodate both types. Either it is done by manually reversing the inside of the head assembly to change between presta and schrader or the head automatically adjusts or you use the appropriate one when the head has holes for both.

Q:I've been playing french horn in school for about five years, and I'm not exceptional by any means! But I love the instrument. Our school district bought a french horn a few years ago when we didn't have enough french horns for players. The almost new Holton has great tone. But unfortunately it fell into ignorant hands and has been neglected for two years. I just received the instrument and cleaned it up and got it back up to snuff, except for the valves. I can't get them to run smoothly!! They act all gummed up. I've put oil in the top and bottom of the valve, and I've dropped a couple drops in the tubes down onto the valves, but they're still gummed up! Do I need to use more oil?? Or what? Any suggestions?: Sounds like your oiling correctly but you need to get the dried oil out, that's the gum your feeling. One way is to have the school send it to the repair shop, its not your horn so don't spend any money on it. Another way is to flush them out with a thin valve oil. Where can you buy a quart of valve oil? Walmart and Kmart has it but not labeled as valve oil. Look for Lantern oil , the stuff used in oil lamps, it is very cheap and many of the valve oils are made of the same stuff. Take out all the crooks on the instrument and flood the valve with the lamp oil, this should flush out the gum. After you have dumped the lamp oil re-oil the way you have been. (Lamp oil is not dangerous, it burns if you hold a match to it but that is about it, you can also use charcoal lighter)

Q:My son was born with bicuspid aortic valve which has developed a leak. He is now on enalipril 2x per day to decrease the afterflow and buy some time before he has to have surgery, but the doctor has discussed our options and we basically have to choose when it comes down to it, whether we go with a valve repair, or valve replacement and if we do replacement we can do mechanical or donated valve or The Ross procedure. And he will probably be under 5 yrs old when this needs done, (he's 2 now) so I would like to keep him off of coumadin (blood thinner) so he can play sports in school if he would like. But I also want to do what is the best for him long term. Any advice would be helpful. thanks: OK I HAVE A 4 YEAR OLD THAT HAS AEROTIC STENOSIS WHICH MEANS THAT AT THE AGE OF TEN HE WILL HAVE TO HAVE A VALVE TRANSPLANT. THE OPTIONS RIGHT NOW ARE A PIG VALVE, WHICH LASTS AS LONG AS A PIG WOULD LIVE, OR A SYNTHETIC VALVE WHICH CAN CAUSE CLOTTING. BUT I WATCHED A DOCUTMENTARY ON A HEALTH SHOW ABOUT A MONTH AGO, AND DOCTORS HAVE INVENTED A WAY TO GROW A HEART VALVE USING CELLS FROM YOUR KIDS HEART. NOW IT WONT BE APPROVED FOR ANOTHER 10 YEARS BUT I JUST THOUGHT I WOULD LET YOU KNOW THAT IT HAS ALLREADY BEEN TESTED AND WAS SUCESSFULL, IF I HEAR ANYTHING ELSE I WILL TRY TO FIND YOUR EMAIL AND LET YOU KNOW. IM PLANNING ON DOING THE PIG VALVE UNTILL THE MEDICAL BOARD APPROVES THE REAL VALVES, THAN I WILL HAVE THAT DONE TO MY SON, SO I WILL NEVER HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT IT AGAIN. GOOD LUCK, I KINDA KNOW WHAT YOUR GOING THROUGH. keep in touch with me, and let me know.

Q:Just wanted to know what the significance of the number of valves is?I know that theres valves for intake and exhaust if i'm correct.if there is four i'm guessing its 1 for air and 1 for fuel if its fuel injected. and 2 for exhaust?are there bikes with 3 valves or more than 4 valves and why?and a basic carburated 2 stroke just has an intake from the carb side and then an exhaust.please give me more info and let me know if i'm correct or not.: 3 valves: 2 intake, 1 exhaust (Honda CM400/450, for example) 4 valves: 2 intake, 2 exhaust (very common) 5 valves: 3 intake, 2 exhaust (some Yamaha sport-bikes) 8 valves; 4 intake, 4 exhaust (Honda NR bikes only) Multiple valves allow much greater flow at partial valve openings, when flow is dependent on total valve circumference, rather than total valve area; Multiple valves each weigh less, allowing a higher rev ceiling without valve float;

Q:why can't i just use solenoid valves hooked to a small bank of relays(using relay logic to control operation) connected to thermostats to control a multi zone boiler system? it would work, but can i do it, why must i use expensive zone valves?: Its just an educated guess but I would say it would cause system shock if a valve just snapped shut as against closing gently. Assuming the system was shutting down as a zone valve shuts the control switch opens and turns off the plant whilst the valve is still partly open. With a solenoid unless you fit a timer to pre shut off the plant then shut off the solenoid you would probably cause some plant damage. Also by the time you have wired all that lot up you may as well do the job with a zone valve.

Q:How do I adjust valves on a CAT C15 On-highway diesel engine?specifics:435-550 hp 2100 rpm1550-1850 lb-ft 1200 rpm Peak Torqu: You have to remove VVA. Its a general tune-up #1cyl at TDC adjust: Intake valve: 1, 2, 4 Exhaust valve: 1, 3, 5 Injectors: 6, 3, 5 #6cyl at TDC adjust: Intake valve: 6, 3, 5 Exhaust valve: 6, 2, 4 Injectors: 1, 2, 4 You gotta use a feeler gauge for the valves and a pin tool (looks like an alen wrench)...(I don't remember the specs, so you'll have to fine those yourself) For injectors your need a special tool (timing pin) to adjust the height (there is also a spec for that) You'll need a pin tool for the valves and injectors plus wrenches to tighten the nut after the adjustment. Valves: loosen up the nut, put the feeler gauge between the rocker arm and the valve, turn the alen wrench till the rocker arm reaches the feeler gauge...make sure the feeler gauge is kinda loose between them but tight...then tighten the nut (there is a torque spec) Injectors: loosen up the nut, set the timing pin on top of the injector, turn the ajustment screw w/ alen wrench till timing pin reaches a lil notch, then tighten the nut till it's tight (also need a torque spec) Afterwards you'll need to adjust VVA... I'm giving you somewhat of a general idea. If you are attempting to do this, you should get a manual.

Q:It started leaking slowly so I opened the release valve for about 20 secs than closed it back to see if that would help, but now it leaks even more. So I had to shut off the water that's coming into the water heater and know I can't use the hot water in my house. Can someone help me please!!!!: Same thing happened to me.. The valve is probably older and needs replaced. Most likely dirt/sediment has reached the valve sea when you opened the valve. Solution: Replace Valve You will need: Pipe wrench teflon tape and a valve from the hardware store The valve is threaded into the tank. Turn water off to the tank and drain a few inches such that the valve is not submerged. Use the pipe wrench to remove the old valve. Replace with new valve (using teflon tape on the threads). Fixed!

Q:I have mitral valve prolapse. Just recently Ive been getting chest pains more often * few times a day* and the panic and anxiety have gotten worse. I had a pain last night that lasted about 10 minutes and it was very uncomfortable.I know mitral valve prolapse is a condition that usually not a threat. But can it get worse over time with some people?My doctor already knows I have it but should I go back to have more tests done?Im kinda scared because my symptoms are getting to be more than what they were.Any advice?: Mitral valve prolapse associated with severe mitral regurgitation can be treated with repair or surgical replacement of the mitral valve. Repair of the mitral valve is always preferable to replacement and should be performed by surgeons that are skilled in the procedure. Current ACC/AHA guidelines suggest that early repair of mitral valve, performed in centers of surgical excellence, should be considered even in patients without symptoms of heart failure. Symptomatic patients, those with evidence of diminished left ventricular function or left ventricular dilatation need urgent attention.

Q:i have been told that a bad EGR valve (exhaust gas recirculation valve) could cause a car to buck or hesitate in mid range speed at low rpms, thats what my car is doing. i work at autozone and i used our code reader and there was a code that stated EGR flow malfunction anyone else have this problem ever? please help me! i dont wanna spend the $120 if i dont need to!: There is a device called the transducer that connects to the EGR system via vac lines that doe's have a electronic plug on it that could show up under codes as if the EGR valve is faulty but isn't.If the EGR valve has a electronic plug on it then it could be that it's faulty. Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way I ran into that same problem and it was the transducer.Keep in mind that at the big do it yourself auto wreckers you should be able to find several of either of those parts.

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