High Performance Safety Valve For Steam Service

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Specifications

High Performance Safety Valve For Steam Service
1. High Performance
2. Competitive Price
3. Prompt Delivery.

High Performance Safety Valve For Steam Service

Product Information:

Manufactured according to ASME SECTION I
Size: 1 1/2" -- 6"
Pressure: 300LB -- 2500LB
Temperature: ±520°c

Product Feature:

The back pressure adjusting system utilizes the flowing steam to build and adjust back pressure, to ensure that lowdown is not more than 4% of set pressure.
Nozzle is welded with body, to make connection stable when it's serviced in the condition of high temperature and high pressure.
Connection of inlet and outlet is flange type, to make installation and maintenance easy.
Perfect guide design provides well alignment, to ensure that the operation of valve is agile and stable.
The selected materials are of high performance, which can be used in high temperature condition.
The nozzle and disc is faced with satellite, and lapped precisely.
Spring is produced through excellent technology, and tested under simulative service condition.

Q: what is the reason for a 30 degree angle valve cut ? should i have this done on a Street performer 351 windsor with stock street heads and a mild cam?: it all depends on what kind of performance you want out of your engine. the more angle cuts on the valve makes a tighter seat on the head, which seals the valve better. The tighter the seal (more cuts on the valve) you don't lose fuel to blowbye through the valve seat. If the seat is real tight, the gas burns more complete which increases performance and HORSEPOWER~ But remember, that HORSEPOWER COSTS MONEY! Is this kind of modification worth its cost? On a mild street 351 small block, this would be money not necessary. Add a NOS system instead, maybe headers and a crossover pipe, beef up the trans and rearend. Use your money in better places. If you have extra money. this valve cutting won't hurt it. It will improve its performance because a tighter seal doesn't allow blowbye through the valve. You can even go with 5 angle valve cuts if you want an even tighter seal. I believe in Cheaters points - - NOS. When used properly, you'll enjoy the extra HP it will give you instead!

Q: i just replaced the head gaskets on my 1991 Acura Legend and When i put the timing belt on somehow it slipped and came loose I than tried to start it(not knowing it came loose) and it cranked hard and strong but no start. I just retimed the engine and put new timing belt set on it and when i started it the car blows grayish blackish smoke from the exhaust and has a really crazy idle. Could the valves be bent: Misfiring at low engine speeds. Usually, this would happen if you have had a leaking exhaust manifold gasket for a while which would actually cause the valve to get burned from high temperature. An actual BENT VALVE is easily spotted if you remove the valve cover to the suspect area and relieve the stress on the valve stem when the engine is at TDC on this cylinder. If there is too much play , or lash, between the cam and the valve stem, then the valve is not closing and is therefore, BENT!!

Q: I am replacing the Camshaft, lifters, and timing chain on a SBC 350. The motor is still in the car and I have the valve covers and manifold removed (and other components). The camshaft break-in procedure recommends removing the inner valve springs and running engine at 2000-2500 rpm for 20-30 minutes. MY QUESTION: I have the valve spring compressor tool to remove the springs. HOW do I prevent the valve from falling into the cylinder when I remove the spring? Can I conduct the break in without removing the inner valve springs?: I have worked on many a V8 Chevy engine-350 305. I have done too many camshafts and lifters BUT i have NEVER,EVER heard that. If you remove the valve springs and attempt to run the engine, yes, your pistons will swallow up those valves.No doubt. No support, there part of the piston head. No I would say that after installing the cam lifters,etc you loosen up all the adjustable valves and let the engine start ( If It won't start and seems to chug-chug you have them too loose. So, in an orderly fashion loosen each and ever one maybe 2 clicks when the engine does start let run in this ragged fashion until ALL the valves are seated (You will know by the engine starting to get smooth) Then you tighten each one ( No order is necessary) Let the engine run for a good 25 to 30 minutes. The only problem here is the oil dripping or squirting onto the exhaust manifold.( This WILL start a fire) So, stay on top of It and flush them down every now and then. I used to, after I got the thing running in a orderly fashion, I put the valve covers back on loosely. Finger tight. Still watch It,though. But no, do NOT remove those inner valve springs.

Q: i need to know the setting of the valve and a little advice on the up and down of the valves: Intake and exhaust valves have different clearances.Which one?To check the clearance- the cam must be in the proper position.Then you take a feeler gauge and measure the distance-you have to do this to each valve before you can remove the cam to make an adjustment.Under the cam lobe-on top of the valve there is a can that rides up against the cam lobe.Between the inside of the can and the top of the valve there is a little round pocket that has a shim that looks like a watch battery.These shims come in different sizes--replacing them with a different size is how you make the adjustment.This is not anything that I would try to do without a manual--things can go bad real quick in the adjustment stage.Not a job for a 1'st timer but you can learn if you watch someone doing it.

Q: When using seafoam through the PCV valve. Which side contains the vacuum? From the crank case of intake manifold? The brake booster line is very difficult to access and on their site it says I can apply seafoam through the pcv valve.: The PCV valve scavenges OIL VAPORS from the crankcase tthe VALVE COVER. Remove it and you will FEEL the vacuum when you put your thumb over it. It will POP the small pellet inside it. Foolow up with GUMOUT srpay and use BOTH to clean the THROTTLE BODY and the IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE, the IAC is resonsible for mixing AIR with injecte4d fuel. A dirty IAC will RUIN mileage and clog up the converter. GOOD LUCK!!!

Q: How much will it cost to fix 5 broken gas valves out of 6 from my truck it's a Chevy s10 99'I live in North Carolina: ...Gas Valves???....WTF....

Q: A question about a hot water radiator bleed valve. I read the advise on previous questions and bleed all my radiators except one where the bleed valve broke off when I tried to turn it with the key. My question is that on the other side of the radiator near the floor there is a black knob that turns which I assume should shut off the radiator. If my assumption is correct then I should be able to shut this off and then remove the bleeding valve and replace it without bleeding the system.. Does this sound right? Thanks,.JOE B: You may be able to do this but there are usually two pipes going to the radiator and they may be tied in with a radiator on another floor. Be prepared for some water to come streaming out and do this when there is no hot water in the system. If you have the new valve ready to go with pipe dope or Teflon tape on it you will not get too much water coming out and it will not be under much pressure if you remember to shut off the water supply going to the automatic filler valve at the furnace. Plastic sheets and towels or rags should be in place just in case to catch the water and don't panic or it will take you longer to get the new valve started in the hole. A helper with a thumb to go over the hole to stop the water flow and give you time to do what you need to do may be required so have one of those handy as well.

Q: Hello,I've not found a perfect fit using a solenoid valve for gravity fed irrigation system. Primarily because it requires a constant drain on the battery while the valve is open. Is there a motorized valve to fit the bill? One that momentarily requires electricity to open and close the valve at 12v DC or less to work in gravity fed system?: should not be any issue finding on your plumbing features. do only not forget approximately to deactivate and cap the line coming from the front. it is basic to apply that line with the two between the valves finding on the place you chop back and cap it.

Q: I have a 4 diameter column of water 10' tall (filled with water). I need to find a flush valve unit to fit into the bottom of it so that it will flush all of the water out of the column in 1 flush. Essentially this will act as a large toilet but it is for a design project at school. My concerns are that the flapper will close before the water is completely flushed out of the column. Is there any way I can make the flapper stay open thus flushing all the water in column out without holding the chain connecting the float to the flapper valve?: Flapper valves are all about weight and pivot points and center of gravity. The air bubble inside the plug acts like a ping pong ball initially, holding the flapper open. When the water gets down to the level of the flapper, it tends to close too soon as you point out. But you can attach a smal plastic cup to the back of the flapper that fills with water and holds the flapper open when the water level is very low. You put a small hole in the bottom of the cup so that the water in the cup slowly drains out and finally the cg shifts and the flapper closes.

Q: 1994 Chevy K1500 P/U 5.7 liter 350 4X4 5 speed. When the truck is under a hard pull the valves start knocking, the knock sensor adjust the timing and the check engine light comes on. The code for the light is not detecting knock sensor. I have changed the pcv valve (which was suggested) and no change. This has went on for about 5 years. Doesn't matter the grade of fuel I use. Routine maintance and tune ups have been done to this truck. The converter was taken off 7 years ago because it was clogged. The truck runs rich after the timing adjust. The light resets itself when it is turned off. ( the code is saved): hi, a common misconseption on this noise is the valves are banging or knocking, the noise ur hearing is actually caused by preigntion detonation, in other words, the fire is starting in the hole b4 it is supposed to, the plug has to be the one to start the fire, if there is excessive carbon build up on the piston and or valves it can devolop a hot spot and actually start the power stroke prematurally, what i would recommend is getting some type of induction service and injector clean, and i am not talking about running a can of stuff thru the gas tank, that stuff works but not good enough, try to find a shop in your area that sells BG products and get a induction service, if u cant find BG find something similiar, there product is very good. that truck and computer was designed to run on 87 octane, another thing that might be causing the knockin is the mass air flow sensor, i would take it to someone and have them look at it.

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