HDN-F series Emergency Inverted Power Supply

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Scope of Application

This product is suitable in computer and communication systeem，It is a ideal equipment to provide ac power supply for these place where is out of electricity usually as hospital，shop，family and so on。

Main Advantage

Stable output waveform，fast changeover；it can changfe into inverted power supply automatically after the normal power supply is interrupted； full automatic recharge，can connected with battery to
prolong the emergency service time。

Main Technical Parameter

Overall Size & Weight(For reference only)

Q: I have a 1996 Ford Contour sedan. The tail lights, and the dash lights have gone out. The head lights, high beams, turn signals, break lights, everything else is working fine. The last time this happened, I replaced the headlight switch and that fixed it. But this time, I replaced the headlight switch again, and it still doesn't work. I checked all the fuses in the box under the steering wheel, and all of them are fine. Any guesses as to what else could be causing the problem?: See Ford Contour Recall # 8779. If you have NO blown fuses, your problem is almost certainly the light switch.

Q: I recently blew a 25a fuse in a mini fridge which was soldered in. I currently don't have a 25a fuse to replace it with so what would happen if I used a 30a fuse instead?: It is never a good idea to replace the fuse with one that is higher rated. The fridge was designed to handle up to 25A and anything over that will do damage. You could melt wires and start a fire, or on a lesser note do damage to other parts in the fridge. Since this is a solder in fuse, then I would take the time to get the correct size fuse and solder that one in. You may do it and get away with it, but then again you may not. Is it really worth it? Get someone out and see why the fuse blew to begin with. Finally, if you do decide to replace the fuse with the 30A and that one blows, do not put another fuse in the device either get it fixed or get a new one.

Q: Does anyone have a picture layout of the fuse box on a beretta z26 and which components they power. I got the repair manual and it doesn't have it in there. The fuse box cover is gone so its not there. I look on the internet and still find nothing about what fuses go to what components. I believe a have a short in something that is causing charging problems. But i can not find any where the fuse layout or diagram for this f****** car anywhere! I had a problem with this a few months ago and tested the alternator and it's good. It was a fuse problem then. This time ive tested the alternator by the manual instructions and it tested good. Everything points to a short somewhere. But still no charging and no clue what to try next.: Go to a wrecking yard and get a fuse box cover. You can also test your system yourself for a short or parasitic draw. First, shut off all the car's lights and accessories then close all the doors. With the battery in the car, first remove the negative battery terminal. Now, using a multimeter set to the DC volts scale put one probe on the negative terminal of the battery and the other probe to ground. Read the meter. If you read more than about a quarter of a volt, you have a draw somewhere. Troubleshoot the draw by having someone remove fuses one at a time until you see the meter voltage drop. When you see the voltage drop, you’ve found the circuit in which you have a power drain. Thoroughly examine that circuit, area by area, until you locate the reason for the voltage drop. Isolate and repair the problem. If this doesn't fix the problem, take extra care for a few days and see that all the lights are off before you walk away from the car for the evening. It could be something so simple as a door that hasn't closed fully, causing an interior light to remain on overnight or maybe a bad switch on an under hood or trunk light. Any of those are more than enough to do the job. I've done it myself, more than once. Usually, a full battery charge will take care of it. Even a jump start and running the car for an hour or so should build your battery up enough to get you going again as long as your alternator is doing its job.

Q: Hi everyone, i hope you can help me out but i have a 92 grand am with a OHC quad 4 engine, 179407mi. I am trying to start it up and the engine turns good but not cracking up, Put new spark plugs and reconnect the ignition components back up, except there is a red wire tip clamp that needs to be connected back up, (WHICH IT WAS ALREADY OFF BEFORE TAKING COVER TOP OFF) i look and look and look for find where is goes and cant, also when you turn the key to the ON position i don't hear the fuel pump hums like it usually does, I ran outta gas a few times and wonder did the fuel pump shut off? or going bad? or just a relay/fuse? which i hoping that it is a relay/fuse, so please anyone can you tell where i can find the fuse/relay? and what does it looks like? and any more tips i need to know?: Sounds like the fuel pump fuse.try looking under the dash or on the side of the dash when you open the door.if it isn't there it will be under the hood.I would reccomend you go to your local autozone and purchase a $15 book on your car!! not only will it help you find those pesky relays and fuses.but it will also have a wiring diagram to show you where that disconnected wire goes.but don't fret if you can't find that because sometimes car manufacturers use wiring harnesses for different cars and option packages and that wire may not be used for your vehicle.although given it's location my guess isthat it goes somewhere.Buy a book if you are going to be doing your own work on the car.it is a invaluable investment!!!!!!!!!

Q: i recently got my battery replaced because it wasnt holding charge. when it came out of the shop, the clock, power mirrors, and floodlights arent running. everything else seems fine, and i checked the fuses, all are intact. There were no problems with those 3 components before the battery was replaced. Any Ideas to fix this? thanks: Did you check the fuse block in the engine compartment. There may be a fuse or relay there that is bad. There may be a spare relay in the box. If this fails, I would go back to the shop and explain it to them. They may have disconnected something and didn't get it hooked back up. Hope this helps and good luck

Q: I have a 1973 vw beetle. My indicators don't work, as well as my fuel gauge and alt and oil lights. The alt or the oil lights don't come even when you turn the ignition. The headlights work so it's not a fuse. Hazard lights still work and show up on the dash. Can you please tell me what it is: Don't discount the fuse idea until you have checked them all, the headlights work off a different circuit. Since you have lost so many functions, check the earth wire between each of the components/lamps. The Beetle uses a brown wire as earth and it is connected to several components before terminating on the bodywork. Is the flasher relay working correctly? they are cheap to replace but new ones look completly different to the original so take a note of which wire goes to each (numbered) connector. This unit too is earthed by means of the clip which fixes it to the body. Please don't attempt to run the car without knowing that the oil pressure light is working The engine will destroy itself in seconds without oil pressure.

Q: I have an 85 Mustang 5.0 convertible. one day, the stereo stopped working. At the same time, the fuse for the gas door, courtesy lamp and key warning buzzer blew (one fuse). If i try to put a fuse in, it just blows. Does anyone have an idea of where the short could possibly be? or can a component on that circuit fail and cause a short?: If the an aftermarket radio was installed, the wiring may of been done using just electircal tape, as some fly-by-night people do. Over time the wires may become loose, and hit a ground. Take the radio out and look to see.

Q: Hey everyone.I have a modest stereo set-up in my car and I am suddenly having problems with a fuse blowing. I have an Alpine head unit, Kenwood amp, and a single 10 Alpine sub. I have had this set up in this car for about a year and a half, and had the same set up in another car for three years before that and never had any problems. Now for the past week, the fuse in the wire running from my battery to my amp keeps blowing. When I replace it, it is good for about 30 seconds, and then it blows. Any advice on where to start troubleshooting?: most likley when the bass hits its hardest or deepest its to much for your amp so it blows your fuse try turning your bass booster down or the bass alltogether.

Q: I have a problem. I have an outlet that has a computer with a 500w psu, stereo, printer, two monitors, and a external hdd. The problem is that the outlet fuse keeps blowing and I cant figure out why. Im pretty sure im not exceeding the maximum power usage and I have already replaced the outlet. Im worried that one of my components may be shorting and leaking current but I dont know how to check. I do know however that it has nothing to do with the electrical infrastructure of my house because my father is using the exact same outlet now for his computer and hes not experieced the outlet blow yet.How can i find out which component is cause the problem?: unplug each component one at a time, switch the component to another outlet (use an ext. chord if needed). Run the remaining components as normal for a few days or until it normally blows. If it doesn't blow, try a different component and so on.

Q: I have the pyle dryver chopper series 15''inch subs claiming 4000 each speaker (yea right) not a very good brand but it was what i could afford well my fuzes in my amp blew each being 35 and since its so hard to find a fuze thats 35 i did 40 and 30 to equal 70 total well now my fuzes keep blowin and my speakers dont work i changed my wire from 6g to 0 g and replaced the fuze near the battery from 60A to 250A and checked my wires my grounds ok. im thinking my amps fried or blown or something do i just need a better amp? if so any suggestions? im new to sound systems: 1 rule with fuses.you NEVER insert a fuse with a different fuse rating then what its supposed to handlethis can fry certain components in your car, like your amp. most likely frying your amp is the case, get a better amp that can actually handle the 4000w (or 2000w RMS) at the given impedence.

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