Good High High Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board

Good High High Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board System 1

Good High High Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board System 2

Good High High Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board System 3

Good High High Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board System 4

Good High High Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 600 m²

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

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5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely：

① How about your company？

A world class manufacturer & supplier of fiber cement board，is one of the large-scale professional investment mineral production bases in China. Exported to markets in Asian, American, Middle East, African. OEM service available according to customer’s requirements.

Q: What do you use under the tiles, and do you still use grout as well?: Normally you install tiles over a concrete slab using modified thinset for exterior use. Regards, Dale

Q: I am building a balcony. We were going to do tile, but may do a waterproof product instead. There is currently cement board glued (not screwed) to the torch down. Screws were not used because we don't want to have an area where water can seep in. Now I am worried about the glue failing and the cement boards lifting (same issue with tile come to think of it). Is the glue enough to hold down the cement board so I won't have problems in the future?: If your to do ceramic tile then yes you need to screw and glue: it down. This glue isnt really to hold it down like most people think, its part of the support base for ceramic. You still must nail or screw it down in the require amount in the field ( 8 on center and seams a minimum of 4/6 apart.) If you live in a climate that gets cold enough for freezing , the I recommend you don t use a ceramic or porcelain tile ( frost proof or not) Using a cement board isn t the proper way to do an exposed balcony , even to rain. You need to treat it as a shower flooring and use a drain , liner , and s special cement to form a slight slope to the drain from all direction. It is possible ( Ive never done it yet) to properly do a cement board and water proof the top . The water proofing will have to be flashed up the sides to make a water proof flooring and still incorporate a draining system. If you have any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q: I have 3/4 hardwood in the living and dining rooms and was wanting to avoid any step transitions. Any suggestions or opinions would be appreciated.: You might run the risk of breakage due to a high traffic area...I would check the thickness of the tile you wish to install first...then decided on whether or not 1/4 cement board will be a)strong enough and b)the right thickness. I would visit my tile expert before purchase with all designs and measurements in hand first.

Q: Asbestos cement board product features: Thermal insulation: low thermal conductivity, a good thermal insulation properties, high product density, good noise.

Q: Will the cement board on the decoration be used to blow it directly?: If the wall can be placed directly putty putty, putty on the general scraping three times; if the wall is not flat on the first use of plaster gypsum leveling, and then scraping putty.

Q: Would you recommend putting crazy glue in the draft boards locks, or cement?: When was there ever a non-military draft? I prefer crazy glue because it sounds more fun that cement.

Q: Performance of fiber cement pressure plate: Safe and harmless: non-toxic, non-radioactive, in line with national "building materials radioactive protection standards"

Q: I am seeking to set porcelain tile on top of the hardibacker board once it is secured. If I have to remove the Barmaill plywood, does anyone have any suggestions on how to do this with ease? I assume its glued as well as screwed down.: Make sure the plywood is waterproofed by applying a couple of coats of matte polyurethane to it....let it dry completely. Thin set contains water, and you do not want the plywood delaminating. Once the surface is preped, and the plywood is very solid...no flex allowed!, apply thin set and set backer board into it. I usually use drywall screws and screw it down all over the place to make sure the board is in perfect contact with the thinset and backer board. USE Latex fortified thin set or Epoxy thin set...will adhere very well to the sealed ply. NOw, you are ready to set tile...Have a ball. Good luck.

Q: I have Joint Compound and cement board tape, How do i fix a 6 inch hole in drywall? Anything else I Need?: first of all you dont need cement board ( hardie board) all you need is an adhesive backed drywall tape and joint compound. the cement board is way too heavy. It will look funny too once you apply the joint compound. cement board is used for ceramic tile installation on plywood subflooring. * the perfect patch, no mater how big, is to 1) get a piece of 1X (One by) (however long the hole you need to patch) plus three inches longer 2) place the 1X horizontally across the hole and screw with sheetrock screws on either side of the hole to secure the wood to the back of the existing sheetrock. 3) apply a scrap piece of sheetrock cut to fit almost perfectly over the hole 4) screw the new dry wall to the wood behind it. 5) tape, bed, sand the rough uniformly, texture and paint. you can buy the wall texture at the Home Depot ( it comes in rolls like wallpaper. Put the texture on after you sand off the excess compound but before you paint. Be sure to countersink the screws but not all the way through the sheetrock, then mud the holes. Good luck

Q: I want to cut off a lip of about 1/8 by 1/2 to accomodate the upper lip of a tub. I plan to do this with several passes of an abrasive wheel in a circular saw set to 1/8. My question is will I be able to machine the board like this or will I get a crumbling mess? the Hardiback is 1/2.: Hardibaker peels like an onion in layers. We use it half thick often and we just cut it to size and then using a razor knife pushed in between the layers and pull them apart like opening a peanut butter sandwich. This may help you. If you run that saw on the line where you need the lip to start on the board then use your knife to split the layers and peel them down to the cut you made. This may be an easier solution then eating away the excess material a little at a time. Good Luck.

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