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We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely：

Q: I would like to build 4 steps on a incline. It is above a retaining wall but will be a good foot away from the wall all on firm packed dirt. I have a couple questions. One side of the steps would be next to the garage wall.1. Can I pour cement up against the cinder wall?2. If so how would someone build steps form without any boards against the one side. So basically just have the one side and front plate.3. Or would you recommend having a board against the wall. Or pull it out after the form has set?: I would not build those steps directly against the cinder block wall. And here's my reasoning. If you attach those steps without support like rebar, if the house shifts it will shift and crack the steps too. If you use rebar the same thing might happen. I would leave at least a one inch space between the cinder block wall and build an independent form that is separate from the garage wall so it can float kinda like the 1/4 inch float you have when installing a wood floor. It gives it room to move. You can use ply for the form on the garage side and pull it out when the cement is cured enough for the form to be removed. Something to think about

Q: i am going to be installing tile in my bathroom as a tub surround.i am wondering what backer board is needed. if i am using a membrane such as kerdi, is drywall a good enough backer or do i need cement board. if i need cement board, do i need the membrane? what products do you suggest for best installation. i will also be doing a walk in shower. are there any differences to be aware of compared to the tub surround shower style.: Tile doesn't flex. Drywall does. You need a hard surface to lay tile, or the grout joints will crack, water will get in, and your tile will promptly fall off. Real tile backer board (the kind that's made out of fiber re-enforced cement) is the only decent solution for installing tile over a wood frame. Hardibacker or any other modern garbage designed to make something seemingly easier, just turns into a nasty headache a year later. Also be sure to use real thin-set mortar, and real grout. That adhesive grout is just acrylic caulking with some sand added, tiles will fall off if they get wet.

Q: I am making a custom kitchen island and I planned to tile the top of it. The top of the island is going to be made of thick plywood for strength and I was told by the man at the hardwood store where I bought all the supplies that I needed to place cement board down on the plywood before I placed the tile down. I had bought a trim to go around the table top, hoping that it would be flush with the tile once the time went into place, however using the cement board makes the trim flush with the cement board and after the tile is installed, it would be about 5 mm taller than the trim. Do I really need to use the cement board? Would it be a bad idea to place the tile and mortar directly on the plywood?: Use a slightly thinner plywood and glue it to the backer board. You will have adeqaute strength from the laminate and superior water protection from your backer board... The thicker plywood will find some use... it always does. If there is still any concern about table strength, redesign/ add to the table skirt (kind of like joists for a table top). why make it OK when you can make it great with a small amount of additional effort?

Q: could someone please recommend (a) thin set, manufacturer, brand, this is a bathroom application. perhaps a Lowe's or home depot product.: Custom Building products, sold at Home Depot is what I ve used for years.. You can use the white or grey, just that the grey is just a bit cheaper too. For porcelains you ll want the Flexbond line in the Custom thin set. It s the one recommended for porcelains. Also in the past I ve used H B Fuller s Tec lines of thin sets. love that line, it mixes to a nice creamy consistancy. But its not as available to the public and more expensive. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q: Factory roof directly painted on the cement board directly spray the white again: Do not require a full cover, and so spray the paint does not stick and then spray. Several spray can be completely covered.

Q: Span 3 meters of the prefabricated plate can withstand much pressure: The prefabricated board is the floor used in the early building. Prefabricated board, is the project to use the module or plate. Because it is processed in the factory after forming directly to the construction site for installation, so called prefabricated panels. Production of prefabricated panels, the first with a wooden nail made of hollow model, hollow part of the model in the cloth after the steel filled with hollow parts, and so dry after knocking to the board, the rest is the prefabricated plate. Prefabricated panels are useful in construction, such as cement boards covered by ditches on the road; cement boards on the roof are made of prefabricated panels.

Q: A clerk told there there is a special hole saw for ceeeeeement board--but I never saw the same clerk again. I need to make five 2'' holes.: You should use a carbide abrasive hole saw for any cement board. Trying to use a standard bi-metal hole saw will only work once, maybe twice. As a plumber, I have to drill through cement board all the time. IMO it's worth it to go to Lowes or Depot to get the right hole saw for the job.

Q: Performance of fiber cement pressure plate: Machinable and secondary decoration performance: can be free to cut, drilling, engraving, paste.

Q: I have a porch that is currently covered in green turf carpet. I'd like to rip off the turf, clean the cement and mortar on small stone pavers. I will be placing the stones not only on the top, but the sides, and tread and risers of the stairs as well. Can I mortar directly onto the cement or should I use backer-board? If a backer-board is needed, how do I connect the backer-board onto the concrete? Will I need special screws?: No backer needed. I've seen professionals rock right over brick and concrete.

Q: Cement fiberboard dry hanging practice?: There are two types of cement fiberboard dry hanging: 1, automatic screw directly fixed on the steel structure 2, fiber cement board slot, dry hanging

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Description	100% Non-asbestos
Raw Materials	Cement,Quartz Sand,Paper Pulp,etc.
Standard Size	1220mm×2440mm or 1200mm×2400mm
Max Width	1220mm
Max Length	3000mm
Thickness	4-20mm
Density	1.30-1.50g/cm3
Color	Light yellow or Grey
Water Content	≤10
Water Absorption	≤40
Fire Resistance	Incombustibility A Class(GB8624-A)
Thermal Conductivity	Average≤0.20W/MK
Bending Strength	Transverse≥11.0N/mm3 Vertical≥8.5N/mm3
Radioactivity	Conforming to GB6566-2001 A Class
Certification	SGS,CE,ISO
Packing	Wooden pallet
Trade Terms	FOB SHAGNHAI port, CNF, CIF
Payment	T/T
Lead time	7 to 10 days after the order is confirmed.