• Good Hight Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board System 1
  • Good Hight Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board System 2
  • Good Hight Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board System 3
  • Good Hight Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board System 4
  • Good Hight Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board System 5
  • Good Hight Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board System 6
Good Hight Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board

Good Hight Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
400 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Specification

Thickness:
4mm,5mm,6mm,7mm,8mm,8.5mm,9mm,9.5mm,10mm,11mm,12mm,4.5mm
Wildth:
10cm,20cm,25cm,30cm,50cm,60cm
Fonction:
Fireproof Board Ceiling,Soundproof Ceiling,Normal Ceiling,Integrated Ceiling,Heat Insulation Ceiling,Moisture-Proof Ceiling,Mould-Proof Ceiling,Smoke-Proof Ceiling,Waterproof Ceiling
Color:
Milky
Application:
Office,Hotel,Household,Dust Free Room,Public
Shape:
Square
Material:
metal

 Specifications 

 

2440*1220*4-20mm

2400*1200*4-20mm

3050*1220*5-18mm

 

Main mechanical preformance indexes 

 

Description

100% Non-asbestos 

Raw Materials

Cement,Quartz Sand,Paper Pulp,etc.

Standard Size

1220mm×2440mm or 1200mm×2400mm

Max Width

1220mm

Max Length

3000mm

Thickness

4-20mm

Density

1.30-1.50g/cm3

Color

Light yellow or Grey

Water Content

≤10

Water Absorption

≤40

Fire Resistance

Incombustibility A Class(GB8624-A)

Thermal Conductivity

Average≤0.20W/MK

Bending Strength

Transverse≥11.0N/mm3 Vertical≥8.5N/mm3

Radioactivity

Conforming to GB6566-2001 A Class

Certification

SGS,CE,ISO

Packing

Wooden pallet

Trade Terms

FOB SHAGNHAI port, CNF, CIF

Payment

T/T

Lead time

7 to 10 days after the order is confirmed.

 

Good Hight Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board 

Recommended applications

 

1. Interior and exterior wall 

2. Furred ceiling 

3. Insulation materials, floor

4. Sound-adsorbing wall

5. Sound-adsorbing suspended ceiling

6. Road barrier

5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you sincerely

① How about your company

A world class manufacturer & supplier of fiber cement boardis one of the large-scale professional investment mineral production bases in China. Exported to markets in Asian, American, Middle East, African. OEM service available according to customer’s requirements.

②How to guarantee the quality of the products

We have established the international advanced quality management systemevery link from raw material to final product we have strict quality testWe resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

③How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within one week days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The pecific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly two weeks working days can be served.


Q: Is it required to waterproof a basement shower when it sits directly on the cement floor? Can we use cement board on the curb or is it required to use mortor and build it that way?? Can be lay the floor tile directly to the cement floor? Any suggestions will be great?? Thanks
My dad is an architect, and when he designed the showers for his assisted living facility, he didn't use a shower pan. He put tile on the walls (you can get drywall made for bathrooms), and sloped the tile floor slightly, so that when the water splashes on the floor, it runs back into the shower. That way, there's less chance that the residents will trip getting out.
Q: I had to make some necessary repairs behind the wonderboard and I ended up making 6x6 inches holes through the cement board. I have repair sheetrock in the past but this cement board looks difficult to repair. I have googled online on how to do the repairs but I could not find much. Thank you in advance for all who will answer.
Patching Cement Board
Q: I am making a custom kitchen island and I planned to tile the top of it. The top of the island is going to be made of thick plywood for strength and I was told by the man at the hardwood store where I bought all the supplies that I needed to place cement board down on the plywood before I placed the tile down. I had bought a trim to go around the table top, hoping that it would be flush with the tile once the time went into place, however using the cement board makes the trim flush with the cement board and after the tile is installed, it would be about 5 mm taller than the trim. Do I really need to use the cement board? Would it be a bad idea to place the tile and mortar directly on the plywood?
Use a slightly thinner plywood and glue it to the backer board. You will have adeqaute strength from the laminate and superior water protection from your backer board... The thicker plywood will find some use... it always does. If there is still any concern about table strength, redesign/ add to the table skirt (kind of like joists for a table top). why make it OK when you can make it great with a small amount of additional effort?
Q: I'm making designs for a house I want to build. Initially I wanted to build the house out of primarily concrete, however because of where the house is going to be going, it's not really plausible to get that amount of concrete out there to pour at once (it would be extremely difficult to get a truck out there).So my next consideration would be to build an otherwise traditional frame and instead of using drywall on the inside, I would use cement boards to panel the walls, and go for a clean, future-industrial look. I was also intending on doing something similar to the exterior.However, cement boards obviously weigh significantly more than typical drywall panels, and my main concern is whether or not a regular wood frame would be able to hold that amount of weight. So would that pose a significant issue to the extent that I should also consider using steel for the entire frame, or at least as a support system, or should wood be able to hold up just fine?
Plaster in the (3) layers they used to install on homes years ago is just as heavy as cement board-if not heavier. No worry about wood being able to support the cement board. As far as your house of concrete - you need to do some serious pricing of materials and labor for all aspects of your dream home. First of all you need to price lots or land, then cost of site work such as driveway, Tap fees for water,sewer, or you may need septic system if rural area. If you choose a building method that is off the wall - you should be prepared to pay $200-$300 or more per square foot.
Q: Its all gonna get covered with mortar anyway when I put the tile on, right? So.... Is it NECESSARY to mortar the joints before hand or not?
You want to make it as water tight as possible, so yes, it is necessary.
Q: how do those karate guys break cement and wood pieces by jsut like one hit, why doesnt it hurtthem or break there hands and feet?dont gimme a BS answer,im lookin for an actual reasonable explanation
The big answer is technique. And of course conditioning. If you don't have the proper technique you might end up to hurt yourself even though you are conditioned. For instance, when you condition your fist to be able to punch you work on your two big knuckles (it's where you punch) but if you don't have the right technique you might end up to punch in a circular manner that will result by punching with your little finger knuckle. At that point if you hit hard you might get a boxer fracture. Also why people don't get hurt? First: Conditioning. That way you first kill the small nerves that creates pain and then your bone gets thicker in answer of the trauma you are causing it, it's a defense mechanism. Second: simple law of physic ACTION REACTION If you go through your board or your brick the energy that you created by breaking the board is mostly lost in the air outside the board. So there is not much energy coming back to your fist. However, if you hit really hard and you don't go through, well... You get it all back... It's how I hurt my fist. But again I didn't have the proper technique... I was a bit too close so my energy wasn't at its full potential. Just a small trick in order to have maximum potential energy you should focus your power about a inch (if it's hand technique) behind the last board and about 2 inches if it's a foot technique
Q: Replacing the cement board is not realistic, I don't know of anything that may be more flexible and not deteriorate so quickly.
100% Silicone Caulk - White.
Q: how do i install stone veneer over cement board?
What kind of stone? Interior or exterior? If interior, what room? Is the stone rough or has it been cut to tiles? Pretty broad question. Please provide more details.
Q: I can jump atleast 4 or 5 inches on a rug,grass, mud, sand. but i cant on cement when i ollie on cement my board like slips away after i pop and on everything else it doesnt. help?
that's rather helpful to benefit the grip on your board. If no longer that then perchance your shoes are the issue. If no longer the two of those merely regulate the way your foot is on the board, and prepare prepare prepare
Q: I currently have a cheap ceramic tile on my bathroom floor. It is set on cement board. I would like to replace it with a slate-like porcelain tile. Can I simply remove the ceramic tile or do I have to also tear out the cement board and replace it? How big of a project is this? I previously installed porcelain tile on a plywood floor over cement board and am wondering if the demolition creates a bigger problem.
You could lay over what is there if the ceramic isn't slick or shiny on top. Getting off the old may not be as hard as one would think. Then again it may be a bear, I'd smack one with a hammer and just see how hard it would be to get out. This would not create such a height gain in the long run. If it is a nightmare then I'd cement the broken tile you took outs spot and go over top what is there if possible. Getting the old cement board completely out I believe would be a chore but I may be wrong.

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