Good High Good Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board

Good High Good Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board System 1

Good High Good Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board System 2

Good High Good Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board System 3

Good High Good Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board System 4

Good High Good Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 500 m²

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

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5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely：

① How about your company？

A world class manufacturer & supplier of fiber cement board，is one of the large-scale professional investment mineral production bases in China. Exported to markets in Asian, American, Middle East, African. OEM service available according to customer’s requirements.

②How to guarantee the quality of the products？

We have established the international advanced quality management system，every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test；We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

Q: I am going toceramic tile a commplete small brm do I have to drywall or can I just cement board T.Y.F.Y help?: If brm means Bedroom..... And it is going to be used just for that , I would put up greenboard ( a type of drywall used in bathrooms ) . Are you going to be doing the walls ,floor to ceiling ? And it also sounds like you are covering the ceiling too. ? Sounds kinda strange What are you going to use the room for?

Q: I would like to build 4 steps on a incline. It is above a retaining wall but will be a good foot away from the wall all on firm packed dirt. I have a couple questions. One side of the steps would be next to the garage wall.1. Can I pour cement up against the cinder wall?2. If so how would someone build steps form without any boards against the one side. So basically just have the one side and front plate.3. Or would you recommend having a board against the wall. Or pull it out after the form has set?: I would not build those steps directly against the cinder block wall. And here's my reasoning. If you attach those steps without support like rebar, if the house shifts it will shift and crack the steps too. If you use rebar the same thing might happen. I would leave at least a one inch space between the cinder block wall and build an independent form that is separate from the garage wall so it can float kinda like the 1/4 inch float you have when installing a wood floor. It gives it room to move. You can use ply for the form on the garage side and pull it out when the cement is cured enough for the form to be removed. Something to think about

Q: i am trying to build a slideboard (he kind that speed skateres and hockey players use) by gluing a piece of particle board to a sheet of tileboard.yesterday i applied a generous amount of contact cement and put the two together immediately to dry. today they are not even sort of stuck together. what is the most likely cause?could it be because i did this in my dingy and freezing cold basement?or are you not supposed to use contact cement on particle board and or tileboard?the instructions did call for plywood and linoleum.: the temp being so cold didnt help,and did you wait an hour before marrying the two pieces??if not,air has not had a chance to set the glue up for contact adhesion.

Q: in my new bath/shower i'm using hardibacker cement board. what should i use for the rest of the bathroom walls: Go ahead and finish the rest of the bathroom with hardibacker. You will never have a mold problem thats more than paint deep, or if you tile the walls, which you can now do cause you used hardibacker board mold will never get further than the grout. You made a good choice, any space thats prone to moisture calls for a cement type backing and hardibacker is so much easier to cut than the other products.

Q: Cement board to do the bathroom top off the skin, how to deal with: A long time and out, paint can be directly sprayed up, putty powder

Q: can plywood be used instead of cement backer- board for tile?: Im not for certain but i don't think it can be used instead of cement backer board. Plywood is very preamble and the grout may soak through? I would call a Lowe's or Home Depot and ask for the flooring dept. or lumber and ask them.

Q: I'm laying slate tile over linoleum that was installed about 6 months ago....the linoleum is in very good condition, very smooth with no rips or lifting. I've done some research and figured I could put down cement board and then lay the tile on that. The floor under the linoleum is cement. Is there a special drill/special screw necessary to attach the cement board to the cement foundation?: Here's how a tile contractor would do it. First off you need to look how the tile floor will finish to the other floorings it will tie into. Ideally you want the same level when finished. It is common though to have a slight offset (up to 1/4 is acceptible). So remove whatever you need to be 1 lower then the other floor, before you install 1/2 hardibacker and the tile. What you listed above is a waste of time and money. You don't need plywood and hardibacker. You use one or the other. The industry has gotten away from tile directly on plywood, so don't consider that. Use the hardibacker. My guess is when you remove the vinyl and hardwood, you will be about 1 down. Screw the subfloor down then attach the hardibacker with 1 5/8 screws and lay the tile. If it is within the tolerance I noted above (1/4), you can buy a transition strip to apply at the change from tile to existing flooring. If your floor is up and down, do this, use a level as a straight edge on the floor, marking the high and low spots. The high spots need to be feathered out and the low spots need to be filled in. You should do this before you install the hardibacker. You can listen to a kid that worked with his dad or a listen to guesses from people that tiled a floor or two. You can even listen to a woman on here that claims to have been a remodel contractor, master electrician, building inspector and everything else she claims to have been, or you just take free advice from a guy that does tile floors. Your call.

Q: Bent cement board while installing onto floor...will it be ok?: well i hope youre not using actual thinset. Thinset is for wall tile :p You want mortar. and 1/4 backerboard would have been plenty, but too late now :p even if the board cracked...assuming you screwed it down well, and mortared underneath it, it's fine. No worries.

Q: how can you tell the difference between asbestos and cement board?: You have to have it tested. The difference could be as little as 2% asbestsos and they will appear the same.

Q: What kind of mortar do you use to tape joints in cement backer board?: thin set. the same mortar you use to set the tiles with.

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