Good High Good Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board

Good High Good Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board System 1

Good High Good Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board System 2

Good High Good Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board System 3

Good High Good Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board System 4

Good High Good Quality White Color Fiber Cement Board

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 500 m²

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

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5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely：

① How about your company？

A world class manufacturer & supplier of fiber cement board，is one of the large-scale professional investment mineral production bases in China. Exported to markets in Asian, American, Middle East, African. OEM service available according to customer’s requirements.

②How to guarantee the quality of the products？

We have established the international advanced quality management system，every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test；We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

Q: This building was previously a school building, with cement block walls..I need to know if I need backer board, or do I just need to fill in the low spots to make the wall flat and level? Also, what kind of thinset do I need for clear glass mosaics?: whats your intention? just a decorative backsplash and/or accent? as long as the masonry is in sound condition (i.e: joints are solid and there isn't any efflorescence, or deterioration of the block face), and take proper steps to clean the substrate thoroughly (remove any oil/paint). if you had the intentions of making a shower enclosure, i would recommend making further preparations. depending on your choice of tile colour (light vs. dark), i would select the co-ordinating thin-set pigment, and possibly a scratch coat if choosing a lighter colour. when applying the thin-set with your trowel, avoid using the notched edge. otherwise, its possible that you may be able to see the notching through the glass tiles.

Q: Will the cement board on the decoration be used to blow it directly?: Wall putty method: (1) the current putty are basically finished products, watered into a paste can be used directly. (2) with a scraper directly to the wall scraping like putty can. (3) If the wall is not smooth like the first plaster leveling, and then putty putty. (4) putty is usually horizontal scraping 2 to 3 times, every time between the need to dry through (summer and autumn without the need for interval of 24 hours, rain and wet weather need to extend the interval), scraping the next putty to use fine sandpaper on the front Put on the putty to polish, and then sweep away the dust.

Q: I have a 5x20 room off my basement which sits under my front porch. All four walls of the room are cement block all the way up to the ceiling which is the cement slab from the porch above. There is a wood ceiling in the room that has gotten wet from leaks above. Is it safe to remove the wood joists and plywood in that room, fix the leaks and replace it? This doesn't support any weight from the slab above, does it? I assume that it was probably used as the bottom of the form when the slab was poured. Also, when I replace the ceiling, can I attach the ledger board using concrete sleeve anchors? Can these be fastened into the block wall? I'm not sure if they are hollow or have been filled with gravel or concrete. I plan on using the ledger board to fasten joist hanger to and frame back up my ceiling for insulation and wiring. The current ledger is attached with masonry nails. Any thoughts?: Your ceiling may very well be no more than the bottom forms for the slab, but you really need to make sure. Attempting to seal the concrete slab from the underside isn't advisable. Concrete draws moisture, so you will always have a seepage problem after you're finished. I'd suggest sealing the slab on the surface and make sure it quit weeping before proceeding with the remainder of your project. Not all concrete blocks are filled. To secure your ledger board I'd suggest using a lag bolt with a lead spread type toggle. Drill into the block and insert to lead, which will hold the lag bolt. Hope this has been some help. Good Luck

Q: This would be around the bathtub area. Not sure whether to use the same cement board tape and mortar at the ceiling line or to switch to regular wallboard joint compound. Which is correct? Thanks!: If your tiling the ceiling you can use thin set to tape that corner joint. If you were not tiling the ceiling it d be different. Any questions you can email me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q: We are using quality 3/4 plywood as the base - can we glue the tiles directly to this wood or does there need to be something between the wood and the glue/mortar?: You can use two layers of 3/4 going cross grain to the bottom but there still is the possibility that the wood will swell and move if you don t glue and screw it together well. Its better to use a 1/2 cement board. And still use thin set between the 2 layers and nail ( galvanized roofing nails) or screw it well. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q: I'm pulling up the linoleum and replacing it with ceramic tile, 12x12. it's a small bathroom, on the 2nd floor.Under the linoleum is wood. Do i need to lie down cement board before I put the mortar mix down? Or will it be fine to put tiles on the mortar mix on the wood?: Cement Board Floor

Q: the durock cement board is 1/2 inch and the drywall is 5/8 of an inch...So the shower wall is about an 1/8 of an inch recessed intothe wall. What can I do to fix the situation without redoing anymore walls. If I butt up the bullnose tile against the drywall about half of the tile's thickness sticks out...actually looks ok. I don't know if i should try to make a gradient from the drywall to the tile. There are also some gap between the two types of boards.....fill it with mortar?: Yes you float it and float it back a bit on the durock. Use the same thinset mortar that you use for the tile. Never use a mastic as some hackers may suggest.Mastic is a water soluble product and will fail in a wet area such as a shower. What I do if the area permits is to put a pc of painters tape on the edge of the dry wall. Leave room for cement board tape. Then float the ares and pull off the painters tape and run the SBN over the durock tape edge and onto the dry wall just a bit to cover all and make a clean transition. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q: Just put cement type 1 portland,over hardie board about 3/8 of an in. how long do i have to wait to stain it?: i would give it a week, it should set pretty quick...

Q: Is it okay to install ceramic tile on greenboard, or is cement board necessary?: if within 2 ft of water area, ex: tub lip, shower head, then use cement board.......if above the 2 ft then the green board is fine to work with....... lic. gen. contractor

Q: I have a cement back porch/patio approx 5'x22' that I've decided to tile.I know...tile outside...touchy subject, except I got 20 inch tiles at a steal. Problem is, while doing a mock layout, I noticed that many areas on the surface are unlevel (the tile rocks). It difficult to identify every single unlevel spot so I can't patch. Any recommendations on leveling the whole thing? Someone mentioned use wonder board (thin cement board) as an overlay, but I believe you'll still have weak spots beneath.Anyone have a suggestion?: how uneven is the slab. You can put a pretty thick layer of thinset adhesive and cover up some of the unevenness. If you put down a 1/2 inch of thinset around the bad spots will it stop the tile from rocking? the whole slab doesn't need to be even, but each tile needs to be even with the ones surrounding it

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