• GDL Series Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • GDL Series Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • GDL Series Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump System 3
GDL Series Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump

GDL Series Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
500 unit/month

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Overview of GDL Series Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump

This pump is the newest pump type, have the advantage of energy-saving, small volumne, easy installation, stable performance, etc. Pump casing is made of 1Cr18Ni9Ti high-quality stainless steel, shaft seals use wear-resisting mechanical seal, no leakage and long service life. With hydraulic balance solve axial force, consequently pump runs smoothly, with low noise, can be installed in any horizontal pipeline. Fully meet high-rise building, deep well water supply and drainage and fire fighting needs, is the best pump type used for cold or normal medium, liquids that physical and chemical properties similar to water.

Features of GDL Series Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump

1, installation, maintenance convenient: pipeline installation, inlet and outlet could be like valve installed in the pipeline as any location and any direction.
2, the appearance is beautiful: stainless steel casing and pipeline structure, beautiful appearance.
3, less operation, maintenance fees: adopt reliable mechanical seal, low failure rate.
4, low cost: adopting high speed motor, light weight, small size.
5, low noise: unique hydraulic parts design, good flow performance, maximum reduce the flow noise.

Usage of GDL Series Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump 
Mainly used in high-rise buildings life, fire control, heating and air-conditioning systems, suctioning large stores, hotels, office buildings and high-rise buildings, industrial and mining enterprises, municipal engineering water supply and drainage, fire sprinkler system feedwater and boiler feed, chemical process make-up water and so on.

FAQ

Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?

A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?

A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

Q: Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

A: It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.

Q: If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?

A: You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.

 

GDL Series Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump

Q: okay i just put a new camshaft in my truck and before my water pump seemed to work but it leaked a little bit but my truck never got hot well i drove it a little bit after puting in the new camshaft and the top radiator hose and heater hose was warm but the bottom radiator hose was cold so i think my water pump went out but not to sure thanks to any answers
I would check the thermostat. But you don't check it like the first answer indicates. Pull the thermostat out. Look at it if it is open it is bad. If it is closed put it in a pot of boiling water. If it does not move it is bad. This may seam like allot to go through but if it is not the thermostat your only out the cost of a new gasket. And you know for sure. If there is nothing wrong with the thermostat , than you aren't getting circulation. A few causes would be: Cooling system clogged water pump bad internal leak or external leak. If you have a leak the system can't build pressure.It will take a long time to warm up and or it will make you think it is over heating but it will only be a leak. It will also run hot. NEVER OPEN A RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT. YOU WILL BE GOING TO THE HOSPITAL TO HAVE YOUR BURNS TREATED!!!
Q: how do i take water pump off took all hoses and bolts i think off dont know whats holdin it on how many bolt hold it on i know the seal can hold it on ther but it wont budge even when i use block of wood and tap with hammer
If you haven't figured it out already, it's best to remove the plastic shield around the fan first. Then remove the declutching fan from the water-pump. If you skip this step, when the water-pump does come loose the fan blades will blast right into the radiator. There are only four bolts holding the water-pump to the engine block. When the declutching fan is off you can use a dead-blow hammer on-top of the water-pump drive spindle with the other hand underneath the water-pump snout to prevent from hitting the radiator core. If your not riding around by now it's because you'r having trouble figuring out where all the crap is in Roberts Rules Of Order.
Q: I have a Goulds JPlus water pump inside my home. Last night, my wife and I heard it going on and off repeatedly when we went to bed. I have two shallow wells hooked up to it, so I switched wells even though I didn't believe the one I was on was dry (it was supplying H2O fine).Still no luck, so I turned it off at the breaker and shut off the valve between the tank and pressure switch. Today, the pump pressure gets to between 50 and 60, then goes off. It then loses pressure v ery quickly (approx 10-20 seconds) and goes back on when the pump switch hits the lower threshold. It sounds like the water is running back through the pump and out of the house when it goes off unless I turn the shut off valve I spoke of earlier. I changed the pressure switch and no difference.I can, however, turn it on and shower, flush, etc. I just then have to go down and turn the pump back off.Any help would be greatly appreciated!
If there is space try to hit the head of the bolt with a hammer, the shock from the hammer blow will help you to loosen the bolt. Failing that the next thing to try is an allen key socket, with this you can use a long strong arm to apply extra torque to the bolt. Be carefully not to open up the head of the bolt as this can be a major pain. If you still cannot get it out then if the water pump is to be replaced try to get an angle grinder on the bolt to cut its head off. Once the head is off and the pump is out you can use a stud extractor of a good vice grip to remove the stub of bolt left over.
Q: Why should the water inlet of water pump be fitted with reducer?
Increasing the pipe diameter can reduce the resistance loss along the path and reduce the suction vacuum of the pump! Before the inlet of the pump is a big diameter, when you reach the suction port, and the pump inlet diameter to be consistent, so the use of reducer joints!
Q: motor overheats but no leak. water just boils in resorvoir. is it hard to do it on my own?
ummm please make sure you have proper coolant and not just water in your rad
Q: What will the water pump reversal situation?
Reversal will also water out, but the amount of water is small, belong to "pressure water" effect, as if a basin of water, we do not shoot outward and down, the water will be out of the basin.
Q: I have a 1997 Honda Civic DX and i recently took it in to have its timing belt and water pump replaced. Since then, I have noticed a change in the cars performance. I have lost both gas mileage and power since i took my car in. The maintenance supposedly took the dealer twelve hours to complete which seemed a little odd to me. Do you think this is linked? I just remember getting a lot more miles to a tank of gas, and my car was about the same speed as a friend of mine's who now smokes me. Thank You.
ITS MOST LIKELY NOT TIMED CORRECTLY, MAYBE OFF BY ONE OR TWO TEETH. IF THIS REPAIR WAS DONE RECENTLY I WOULD TAKE IT BACK AND TELL THEM THAT THE VEHICLE HAS A LACK OF POWER CONCERN EVER SINCE THEY DID THE REPAIR. THEY SHOULD NOT CHARGE YOU MORE UNLESS THEY FIND THAT IT HAS THIS CONCERN BECAUSE OF ANOTHER PROBLEM. HONDA'S ARE KNOWN FOR DECEIVING TIMING MARKS.
Q: how to replace water pump in a 96 F150?
1. drain coolant 2. remove engine fan and clutch assembly 3. remove radiator hose connection at water pump 4. remove water pump 5. clean water pump to engine mating surfaces 6. install water pump with water pump gasket 7. rest of installationin reverse order of removal
Q: should replace timing belt & water pump on a newly purchased used vehicle..if no records of last x changed?
CHECK the color of the COOLANT! genuine TOYOTA factory coolant is RED< and not GREEN or ORANGE or any other color! You can REMOVE the TIMING BELT COVER and check it for yourself! I can ASSURE YOU that in this cars PAST, the WATER PUMP and TIMING BELT were Chane or you would NOT BE DRIVING IT! There is NO timing belt or pump that can LIVE TO 160k miles! CHANCES are that this belt and pump were changed at 90-100k miles, and you are NOW DUE for another CHANGE flush and fill of the RED FACTORY COOLANT! The repair kit for a LEXUS or TOYOTA 3.0 liter engine, is about $140 including a brand new GENUINE AISIN PUMP from JAPAN! USE ROCK AUTO for these kit prices and parts! UNFORTUNATELY to do this job right requires a few SPECIAL TOYOTA TOOLS as well! The LEXUS RX300 needs a few panels removed as well! the 4 RUNNER should be EASIER to access! MOSt dealership want nearly $750 for a COOLING SYSTEM change, and a NEW WATER PUMP and TIMING BELT KIT installed! Both TOYOTA and LEXUS charge the EXACT SAME PRICE in the Detroit area!
Q: I am leaking antifreeze, but only when the car is sitting after it has been running for a while, and its quite frustrating..it's coming around where the hoses are, I just got the thermostat/thermostat housing replaced, and also the heater hose and it seems to be coming from the same general area AS those...My car doesn't leak all the time it seems, so I'm not sure what this could mean. It has not over heated, my ac isn't also working at all.I have taken it back to the mechanic two times in the last 2 days and they cannot determine it's having a leak or not..which is quite ridiculous!! It seems to them that they think I'm crazy or something, I just don't like to see antifreeze underneath my car, I mean who does? Does this sound like a water pump? Where exactly is the waterpump located?
i think this might be work on how to check if the water pump is in bad condition, first run your car for about 20 min or 30 min until it became hot. then look at your water pump while your engine is still running. if you noticed that there's a steam rolling off then it needs to be change or replace. or if you see that there's a leak. what you need to do is to look at it while the engine is running. then you will know if it is in bad condition.

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