• Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump With Reasonable Price System 1
  • Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump With Reasonable Price System 2
  • Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump With Reasonable Price System 3
  • Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump With Reasonable Price System 4
Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump With Reasonable Price

Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump With Reasonable Price

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Specification

Item:
Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump With Reasonable Price
Material:
Cast Iron ;Stainless Steel
Power:
Electric
Theory:
Centrifugal Pump
Exporting countries:
Ameircan,Japan,Australian etc
Application:
Sewage Pump

Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump With Reasonable Price


Company Introduce

My company has more than 40 years history, is the China general machinery pump industry association member units.

My company has organized product research and development team, experienced high, intermediate technical staff.

Complete production and processing, inspection, testing (pump performance test platform), and other equipment, to ensure that product quality is stable and reliable.

Over the department, provincial, municipal and industry product quality supervision and inspection (smoke), only one is qualified to go through.Timely quality perfect after-sales service in place, favored by the majority of new and old customers rely on and praise.

My company has successfully passed the national industrial products production license, ISO9001 quality system review replacement work.

Relevant product standards (enterprise), metrology, standardization management system, etc.,

 have been acceptance by the superior department in charge of the inspection.Related to product development, production management, sales and aftersales service, are performed according to the system management standard.


Application

This series pump is widely used for sewage treatment of city construction discharge for architecture projects, hotel, mine, pond, dyeing and printing, paper making and textile industries.

It is the ideal tool for transportation of sludge, slurry, living sewage, feces and stale wastes, solid grains fiber, paper chips, sandy soil etc.



Model Description


100 WQ 50-30-3
100: Drain aperture (mm)
WQ: Submersible sewage pump
50: Capacity (m3/hr)
30: Head (m)
3: Power (kW)

Operations Conditions


1. The medium temperature should not be over 60oC, the density 1200Kg/m3, and the pH value within 5-9.
2. During running, the pump must not be lower than the permitted lowest liquid level.
3. Rated voltage 380 V, rated frequency 50 Hz. The motor can run successfully, only under the condition the deviations of both rated voltage and frequency are not over ± 5%.
4. The maximum diameter of the solid grain going through the pump has not to be larger than 50% of that of the pump outlet.



Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump With Reasonable Price



Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump With Reasonable Price

Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump With Reasonable Price




Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump With Reasonable Price


Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump With Reasonable Price

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Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump With Reasonable Price

Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump With Reasonable Price



 


 Trading market

Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump With Reasonable Price

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Q: how do u know when u need to replace ur water pump or how do u know when its not working??? thanks
You'll know when your engine overheats especially when the temp gauge hits H. If you suspect it isn't working just get it replaced and save your engine damaging itself due to overheating.
Q: Pump impeller diameter plus assembly what changes? What's the effect on the motor?
Two item 1.5 kilowatt type self suction pump original impeller 14.7cm installed 15.5cm may be a problem.After the impeller increases, the flow, head, shaft power will increase (increase in volume see the following formula), the original 1.5KW motor may overload operation.The larger the diameter of the impeller, the greater the lift, the greater the flow rate, because the flow rate of water depends on the centrifugal force generated by the impeller rotation and the line speed on the tangent. The greater the diameter, the greater the centrifugal force and the linear speed. The relationship between the centrifugal pump water delivery and the vacuum degree is that the centrifugal pump is the centrifugal force principle to complete pumping. Without water, the time and space turn will burn out the equipment. Vacuum pumping or vacuum pumping two times.The vacuum of the inlet of the centrifugal pump is composed of three parts (the equation of the inlet of the pump and the level of the suction liquid).
Q: Here is the deal...*Van over heats*Blows Cold quot;heatquot;*Added coolant and water (nothing happened)*Started van, felt the hoses (no h2o flowing thru)I really think my water pump is out, but I am not sure. Does this sound like my water pump. If so, I plan on changing it myself, how do i find step by step instructions to do so.... I have never done it before, but I cant afford to take it to a mechanic! Thanks for your help!
If okorder look up the part there is a tab for instructions. otherwise when you pick up your pump by a repair manual they run about $17. Oh I live in Wisconsin if a case of beer works lol. Run the car with the radiator cap off and put your finger in the water. If water doesn't change temp it's your pump. if it gets alot warmer and overheats it's thermostat.
Q: What causes a water pump on a car to go bad????? and are they a pain to change by yourself?????
the corrosion is the main cause, corrosion is caused by using water coming by the faucet, that water came with some minerals and stuff and the engine at high temp activate those minerals and react causing that brown water (acid water) so the best way is adding a nice mixture of coolant and destilated water is the best but if you dont have that water at hand use some radiator coolant aditive, it will neutralize the effects of the regular water coming from the faucet making that will not make your water pump last forever but your whole system will last many more years
Q: I was vacuuming up water from my basement I assumed was from the rain, suddenly water started spraying out of a blue pump at the base of my furnace, don't know what the pump does or why its spraying but its making an awful mess.
Furnace Water Pump
Q: can i drive my car ,with a blown water pump, 5 miles to a service center?
fill radator with water leave radator cap lose keep eye on temp gadge dont over heat if gets hot pullover an let cool down for a 1/2 hour an finich run to severce station won herart any thing as long as you dont over heat an most car insurance will renburse tow have to pay first an mail bill ti insuranse company a nother opson
Q: Was I supposed to lube the water pump or what. I really don't know what it could be making the noise now. But it goes away after about 5-25 seconds of running, what could it be?
It is the belt slipping on the pully before the material warms up from friction to make it grip better. The squeeling sound is the pully and the belt slipping as the motor is warming up. It is nothing to be concerned about and it is definately NOT your water pump. If the sound bothers you, as it would me, then goto your local auto parts store and buy a cheap can of belt stop slip. It costs less then five bucks and it is a sticky substance like stickum or sapp in a spray can that will help your belt to better grip the pullies and it will stop your problem. What you want to do is this, wait until your car is cold and have someone start the car while you are standing over the motor ready to spray the can onto the belt. You will instantly hear the noise quit as soon as you squirt the can onto the moving belt. Once the engine starts and the belt is moving, just hold the spray down for 3 seconds and it will coat the underside of the belt and your problems will be over. You might want to try to spray an area that will allow the spray to coat the underside of the belt, i.e. the part that comes in contact with the pully. You only want to spray the belt while the engine is running and the belt is moving. That way your 3 second squirt will coat the entire underside of the belt as it moves under the spray can. Kinda like oiling a bicycle chain while moving the pedals and spinning the chain while holding the can in one place as opposed to oiling the chain while the chain is stationary and trying to cover the whole chain. It is impossible to reach all the places becuase some will be hidden behind other parts. That is why you want your motor running while you squirt the belt with the can of sticky belt stop squeel. It will stop squeeling immediately as soon as you spray it on the moving belt. The guy at Pep Boys or Advanced auto parts should know what you want.
Q: I was wondering how to replace the water pump in a 94 Plymouth Voyager. Its my moms van and she is scared that they are going to have to pull the motor to get to the water pump to replace it. I dont know so i am hoping one of yall wonderful people do. along with your answers can you give me an estimate of how much it will cost to fix? Please!!!
book time to change the water pump is an hour, which is a kinda right if ou know what your doing. if not a lot longer...you'll need a few specialty tools, for the tension-er, but if you don't have a lot of time and some mechanical knowledge, don't try it
Q: Ok, I took my '93 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0L in to get the serpentine belt replaced, as the old one had snapped. They told me that the water pump had locked up and that's what made the belt break. The thing is, I had to get the radiator and water pump replaced this past summer and I am wondering what might've made my water pump lock up since it is new. The Jeep has a lot of miles and I'm slowly having to fix a lot of things, so I'm trying to be sure that I don't fix the pump just to find another problem. Also, the repair place told me the water pump looks brand new, so I know that it was definitely replaced, but should I contact the place the fixed the pump and radiator and see if there's some sort of warranty on the pump?
I have a '93 Cherokee too. So I can answer any question you have about it. Water pump failure is caused be bad seal or bearings. Since it locked up, your bearings were the problem. Maybe the belt was too tight? At any rate, before you give all of your money away on any more probs, give me a ring, K. BTW, I changed my water pump out last month. It was an Autozone special w/lifetime warranty. Since it was a replacement, I didn't pay a dime. Contact me via email with any more Jeep probs and I'll walk you through it. Water pumps on '93 Cherokees are tightened throught the Power Steering pump mounting bracket, no tensioner. Replacements is considerably more than a simple belt swap. You must remove the clutch and elec fan to access the water pump bolts. I had to unbolt the A/C compressor and move it out of way. It took me about 4 hours to do the waterpump and thermostat. Not for the faint of heart. But if you are willing to save a few bucks and have access to a few tools, it's all pretty easy.
Q: How does a pump pump water?
Centrifugal pump is the use of centrifugal force to increase the pressure of water and make it flow of a pump. It is composed of pump shell, impeller, rotating shaft and so on. The motor drives the rotating shaft, the rotating shaft drives the impeller to rotate at a high speed in the pump casing, and the water in the pump is forced to rotate with the impeller to generate centrifugal force. The centrifugal force forces the liquid from the impeller periphery to throw, the high speed, the high pressure water flows through the pump shell outside the pump, the impeller center forms the low pressure, thus draws in the new water flow, forms the unceasing water current transportation function.

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