Fiber Cement Board Cement board, Fireproof Non-asbestos
- Ref Price:
-
$1.50 - 3.00
/ m²
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 300000 m²/month
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High Density and Strength fiber cement board is a high quality calcium silicate architectural board reinforced with selected cellulose fibres and fillers.
The raw materials of fiber cement board are cellulose fiber, silicate cement, quartz sand, water and some additives.
It is 100% free from asbestos, sepiolite, inorganic fibres or formaldehyde.
Product Applications:
Fiber cement board can be used in exterior wall cladding and facade of various high-class and high rise civil buildings especially in the modern luxurious buildings. Outstanding sound insulation of the system composed with Bysink external wall board can be used in indoor partition and suspended ceiling for the high demand in private request as sound insulation and such as five star hotel, bedroom, and public entertainment.
Product Advantages:
1)excellent fire-proof
2)excellent damp-proof
3)Durability and long service life
4)high strength
5)stable dimensions
6)good heat and sound insulation
7)non-asbestos
8)mould resistant
9)no deformation
Main Product Features:
100% asbestos free
Non-combustible:PSB GB8624 Grade A
Moisture resistant
Excellent impact resistance
Excellent sound insulation
High dimensional stability
Good surface finish
Easy to work,fix and decorate.
Product Specifications:
FAQ:
1. Which port do you choose for FOB ?
Answer: FOB Shanghai Port.
2. What's your delivery time of your products?
Answer: About 20 days after confirm the order.
3. What about the terms of payment?
Answer: 30%TT advanced payment, balance seven days before shipment.
Other terms of payments also can be negotiated.
4. What's your Minimum order quantity(MOQ) of your product?
Answer: Generally, MOQ is 1x20' container. Others can contact with me directly.
Images:
- Q: I would like to build 4 steps on a incline. It is above a retaining wall but will be a good foot away from the wall all on firm packed dirt. I have a couple questions. One side of the steps would be next to the garage wall.1. Can I pour cement up against the cinder wall?2. If so how would someone build steps form without any boards against the one side. So basically just have the one side and front plate.3. Or would you recommend having a board against the wall. Or pull it out after the form has set?
- have you thought of buying a precast fiberglass step, they go well with weather, they are strong and you can pain them if you like. Home Depot might have some
- Q: Why different buildings sound a lot worse?
- Because of the different buildings of the building extension and the internal structure of the different, resulting in different sound effects.
- Q: thinking of using Wedi Board to renovate a shower, this product is great for tile but saw a show room shower that used scratch coat cement, how hard is this to do compared to tiling?
- If you mean instead of tile, remember that unless you plan to paint it - concrete or cement is not waterproof. Think of a concrete pool - it requires periodic painting (maintenance). There are a lot of thin solid surface products out there if you do not want to look of tile. Tiling is not that hard as long as you prepare properly and take your time. There are alot of site with tiling guidelines out there - the important thing is to install/prepare the surface properly and seal the grout when you are done.
- Q: I want to put a small addition to the side of my concrete bungalow. it will be shed with lean to roof I want to construct this without having to put columns/post on the side of the house what I want to do is attach like a piece of 2x4 or 1x4 to the wall horizontally and have my rafter attached to it. the excisting concrete wall is made of 6 inch thick cinder blocksplease help
- Youve got the right idea, but your lumber selection is too small. If this is going to be room sized... that is, at least 10ft x 10ft, make the ledger board at least a 2x6, or 2x8. (I prefer the 2x8 myself). Use joist hangers to attach the lean-to rafters (also 2x6) to the ledger board. This is a lot stronger, and easier, than 'toe nailing' the rafters to the ledger. You will want to anchor the ledger board to the cement block wall, oversized 'mollies', or tapcons will work just fine... put a little construction adhesive on the back side of the 2x too. I like to use 6x6 posts, but if this addition isnt very large, 4x4's will work. Set them 2 feet into the ground with concete, minimal, to get below most frost lines. I like to run a top sill plate, with at least one 2x6 under it, attached to the posts, to support it. I make the sill plate wide enough to cover the post, and the sill ledger. Notch the rafter joists to match the angle on the sill plate. and again, use some form of joist hanger, or hurricane tie. (the hurricane ties work well at this end of the rafter joist. Next step depends on how you are going to roof the structure. If you are going to use sheetmetal roofing, then you will want to install some 1x material. I like to use 1x6, or 1x8 and split it on my table saw. (costs less than buying 1x3's). If you are going to shingle, then you need to sheathe it with 3/4 exterior grade plywood. If it is very large, use tongue and groove, or plywood clips. Cover with a good felt paper, install your drip edge, and apply shingles. (Run a row of shingles around the perimeter, and don't forget the flashing where the roof meets the wall) Have Fun (I'll add this here - If you are setting the posts on a concrete footer or slab, instead of in the ground, use a metal base. They can be found near the joist hangars, and such in any building supply store.)
- Q: How to do the basement of the cement board
- Base treatment: cast-in-place concrete wall, due to floor, materials, release agents and other reasons, the wall flatness is poor, often stomata, honeycomb, Ma, yin and yang angle and drums and other phenomena, Department of ticking flat, concave to fill the fill. For the prefabricated concrete floor, slab base, must be hand brush with a wire again, the surface of floating sand, pimple, dust and other debris removed clean. For the cement mortar paper layer of gray surface requirements of the surface layer of dry, solid clean (no floating oil) can be.
- Q: Its all gonna get covered with mortar anyway when I put the tile on, right? So.... Is it NECESSARY to mortar the joints before hand or not?
- If the top layer of plywood is treated then there is no reason whatsoever to apply water proofing. If it isn't treated then there is always a small risk that large amounts of mold could develop in the plywood, but it is a small risk. I would pull up the cement board and put roofing felt under it. Or if I didn't want to take the time for about 80 dollars I can pick up a spray on waterproofing layer to the cement board that most tile flooring stores should carry. Tile membranes are good product, but somewhat expensive to use. Grout is sealed to protect the integrity of the grout and no other reason. A small amount of floor movement and water will have a direct path past the grout.
- Q: I have a walk in closet with plywood pieces for a floor. Don't I need cement board installed before putting in wood flooring? Thanks for your help!!
- You dont need cement board . You would just install it over the plywood subfloor. Personally I would go down to Home Depot or similar store and look at their floring and talk to a salespersomn there. If you have not done this before you need to find professional help.
- Q: Hi All,Basically what I am trying to say is that I have a wooden board which will be placed vertically on the floor and would be a decoration.I want to have a coating of cement of some sort on it and make some patterns on it.I like to know if it is possible to lay a thin coating layer of cement or even tile bond glue to a wooden board, lets say a timber board.basically anything that can give me the concrete/cement look as rough as that.. uld be any kind of cement or tiling glue or such...Thanks
- u can. but it will be easy to crack. if u want to put tile on it, use glue instead. i think.. :) good luck
- Q: How to maintain cement board
- According to the difference between the season and the temperature, the cement is fully hardened, that is, the maintenance of the general principle is 28 days, but the actual project which has a greater access, the specific maintenance period should be based on structural type, cross-sectional size, concrete label, cement varieties Temperature, humidity, evaporation, curing technology and other conditions to determine the specific, but the general summer curing of ordinary concrete 15 days is sufficient to achieve the winter sometimes, such as concrete pavement sometimes poor conditions or even two months are difficult to achieve sufficient strength, but no matter What concrete what curing conditions, the first 7 days must ensure that the cover insulation moisturizing conservation, for the harsh conditions of conservation can be used to warm water or even pressure water conservation.
- Q: Standard cement prefabricated board load capacity is a square how many kilograms, thank you
- Casting is in the field of mold, bar reinforcement, watering concrete and other construction procedures to do. Compared to the prefabricated system is the overall shape, good integrity, for a pipe through, or irregular shape of the floor is still very suitable, but its processes, wet operations, the site of watering, the construction period longer The The cast-in-place slab is good and the seismic capacity is strong. Generally there will be no cracks, but thinner, if not do noise treatment, will be more noisy
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Fiber Cement Board Cement board, Fireproof Non-asbestos
- Ref Price:
-
$1.50 - 3.00
/ m²
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 300000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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