• Non-asbestos Waterproof Fireproof Fiber Cement Board System 1
  • Non-asbestos Waterproof Fireproof Fiber Cement Board System 2
Non-asbestos Waterproof Fireproof Fiber Cement Board

Non-asbestos Waterproof Fireproof Fiber Cement Board

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
400 pc
Supply Capability:
500000 pc/month

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Specification

Thickness:
4mm,6mm,7mm,8mm,9mm,10mm,12mm,etc,5mm
Wildth:
1220x2440mm
Fonction:
Fireproof Board Ceiling,Soundproof Ceiling,Normal Ceiling,Heat Insulation Ceiling,Moisture-Proof Ceiling,Mould-Proof Ceiling,Waterproof Ceiling
Color:
Gray
Application:
Office,Hotel,Household,Dust Free Room,Public
Certification:
SGS
Shape:
Rectangle
Material:
Cement

Product Description
Fiber cement board is a new architechural and industrial board with cement, quartz, matural and selected minerals as main materials. The board was made through high temperature and high precessure maintenance and other special treatments. It is the first choice for lasting building materials in some developed countries as well as being increasingly applied in more countries.

 

Specifications
1220x2440x4-20mm, Max width: 1220mm, Max length: 3000mm
Other optional specification available
Optional sanding finishing on the surface

 

Advantages
1. 100% Asbestos Free
2. Fire Resistance
3. Earthquake Resistance
4. High Strength and Good Stability
5. Inorganic Material and Anti Fungus
6. Good Heat and Sound Insulation
7. Durability and Long Service Life

 

Typical Applications
Commercial mansion, Industrial building, Hotel, Hospital, Theater, Station, Factory, Warehouse, etc.

 

FAQ
1. Is OEM available?
Re: Yes, OEM service is available.
2. Are you factory?
Re: Yes. we are the largest factory in China.
3. Can we get sample?
Re: Yes, sample is free for our customer.
4. How many days for production
Re: usually 2 weeks after receiving of downpayment

 

Picture

Non-asbestos Waterproof Fireproof Fiber Cement Board

Q: the cement boards are ahold by 1 nails
Hardyboard is a composite/concrete siding that may work. If your boards are only slightly damaged you may be able to patch them with concrete patch then repaint. A lot cheaper than replacing.
Q: I have Hardibacker cement board down for ten years. Just removed the ceramic tile and mortar from it for a new tile job. Do I need to retape the joints or should they be stable at this point. The cement board was screwed into postion.
its a waste of time to tape the joints. once the substrate is combed with cement its bonded together taped or not.
Q: Multilayer residential buildings used by the cement board to bear the pressure
Prefabricated perforated plates (typically houses built before the 1990s), with a thickness of 12cm, are designed using a standard atlas that can withstand live loads of 150 kg / m2 - 250 kg / m2, Is set according to the specification requirements;
Q: Can fiber cement board be used as an external wall?
Fiber cement board as long as a physical performance is also the reason for the selection of many chemical raw materials manufacturers, A-class fire-retardant, especially in the event of fire will produce harmful substances in the northern winter insulation material is very necessary, in some Large-scale warehouses or logistics where the sound insulation is very important, but we Shima building materials production of pressurized fiber cement board in full compliance with these conditions, large-scale logistics warehouse in Meishan, Chengdu are using the cement board As the external walls, the wall of the wall is the use of light steel keel in the calcium silicate board, this environmentally friendly materials together to form a real green building
Q: How to do the effect of water
Wood, cement, and mineralized sawdust, with some water and fire resistance. The surface of the irregular lines, which is the most unique material .Compared by the designer's esteem, but the price is high in the 150 / level or so, but compared with other materials is still very unique, of course, can also be used Other cement board to replace, in general, the difference is still great.
Q: I am installing a new tub and enclosure. I have exposed everything down to the studs and plumbing. I have heard that when installing backer board in a shower the best material to use nowadays is cement backer board (like Durock) since they are more resistant to mold than green board. Anyways, what is the correct process for installing cement backer board in a shower? Do I just screw the boards right into the studs, or do I have to first put down another thin barrier sheet (like some waterproof material), then the cement backer board, then another waterproof sealant, then I can install the enclosure? I just want to do this right the first time and not leave any steps out of the process. I would hate to develop another moisture leak and then find out that my barrier did not hold up well. Thanks and take care, I appreciate any help.
I normally install green board to the studs tape the seams and the corners and then install the wonder board over the green board. This gives a float look and a full one inch barrier. it also brings the wonder board out far enough so I can drop over the lip edge. I space the wonder board 1/8 to 1/4 from bottom I silicone seal the bottom edge to the tub/shower pan I silicone seal the outside edge to the wall and the bottom edge to the floor. I run a thin bead from the bottom of both corners maybe 12 inches up. I use proper screws ( rock on ) and plenty of them. then tile I would never use an enclosure as the wear with time and look cheap. the seams are problematic and tend to leak over time and might be the source of your problem good luck
Q: I need side and rear clearance for a 15 year old wood stove. The 2x4 walls are covered with cement board and ceramic tiles. Behind that is a foundation wall.
That information should be on the stove, on a little plate on the back, and it should also be available from the stove manufacturer. Every stove is a bit different. You can also check with your local building inspector or a woodstove installation guy to find out what the local regulations say. I hope you're not planning to install this stove without a permit. That will void your insurance if there's ever a fire.
Q: i glued a piece of regular printer paper to a piece of matboard as part of an art project. since i applied rubber cement to both the paper and the board, it bonded quite strongly. the problem is that now i have to remove the paper with the least amount of damage to the matboard. the paper is white and the board is black. its been over a week since i glued the two together. HELP!! i need this for school and it has to look good...any suggestions??im going to throw the paper away, so that can be damaged in the process. no problem.
Try pulling the paper off...and use your hand to ball up the rubber cement
Q: Want to do their own cement board, but made out of the color on the white, how can make the cement board color made dark gray
In cement and asbestos cement, carbon blacks are often used as black or gray colorants, which are often used in roofing materials, cement construction materials, asbestos cement boards and highway concrete roads. For the application of carbon black in the cement and the requirements of the same paper, it is best to add a certain amount of wetting agent. Carbon black for cement also has a role is the cement crushing accelerator, which can shorten the cement crushing time, and can also be its size thinning, to promote the flow of dry powder. In addition, in the anti-static coating can be carbon black and fiber in an appropriate proportion of mixed into the concrete, so that the concrete is conductive.
Q: Ok, here's the situation:I have a covered porch on our house, and I need to replace its floor. Facts of concern: * It is a covered porch. There are four columns between the floor and roof, but I don't know whether they are actually supporting the roof. * It is currently floored with 1/2 plywood, which is rotting. No standing water involved; the texture prevents proper drainage and led to rot. * Under the porch is a basement room complete with wiring and such. We had planned to use oak tongue-in-groove, but have been warned away from it. Now we’re not sure what to use – we just know we don’t want to use plywood.Our questions:1. If I assume those beams are supporting the roof, I’ll need a jack. But what jack? Where do I rent one?2. I thought about using a thin plywood layer under some cement board, but what could I put on top, other than tile?3. Anybody have any other ideas for flooring? Where to get TIG cedar in Cleveland?Thanks!
layer of sealed tarpaper [roofing tar in overlapped joints] + layer of pressure treated plywood on top fpr strength. i have old chipboard with sealed tarpaper over it + outdoor rug on my deck for 15 years. rug keeps wearing out only

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