• Fiber Cement Board 1220*2440mm Fiber Cement Board 1220*2440mm System 1
  • Fiber Cement Board 1220*2440mm Fiber Cement Board 1220*2440mm System 2
  • Fiber Cement Board 1220*2440mm Fiber Cement Board 1220*2440mm System 3
Fiber Cement Board 1220*2440mm Fiber Cement Board 1220*2440mm

Fiber Cement Board 1220*2440mm Fiber Cement Board 1220*2440mm

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
3000 pc
Supply Capability:
10000 pc/month

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The tile is made by high-density fiberglass with compound decoration wool

on the surface and fiberglass wool on the back .The edges are painted. With the

characteristics of square in edges    and angle,it will be parallel to suspension system after installation.

 

Product Applications:

 

The titles are manufactured from high density dry felf resin bonded fiberglass wool, with fine texture painted glass tissue facer,plain tissue backer and sealed and painted edges.square edge titles will be paralled to suspension system after installation. 

 

Product Advantages:

 

1)Incombustibility/Non-flammability: Consmos Calcium silicate board is non-flammable and conforms to the national grade A standard (GB8624 Grade A) with excellent fire resistance property. In case of fire, the board will not burn and not give off toxic smoke. 

 

 

 


(2)Thermal/heat insulation: Owing to low heat conductivity, the product has good performances on keeping warm and heat insulation. 

 


(3)Water-proofing and moistureproof: The product is allowed to long-term exposure to moist environment but still very stable. The board still keeps intact after being soaked in water for one month, the phenomenon of swelling and out of shape will not happen. It has good adjusting mechanics like woods. Even it is used on wash house. 

 


(4)Endurance/durability: Consmos Calcium silicate board provides good insulation against bugs, fungus and corrosion. It can last for a long time and will not corrode. 

 


(5)Noise-proofing: Consmos Calcium silicate board provides good insulation against noise. 

 


(6)High-Strength and Light weight: The board is light weight, in this case, it can decrease weight of building greatly. At the same time, the material is high-stength and not easy to be damaged. 

 


(7)Easiness to installation: The construction process does not require complicated tools but just the ones used in regular wood construction. Our board can be fixed on light steel frame with self-attachable screws or a glue gun to nail the bolts into the wooden frame. 

 


(8)Environmental protection: Consmos Calcium silicate board is 100% free of asbestos fiber and will not cause any harm to human body or the environment.

 

Main Product Features:

 

Material: Torrefaction Compounded high density fiberglass wool

Face: Special painting laminated with decorative fiberglass tissue

Color: white, black and others to order

Fire-resistant: class A, non combustible

NRC: 0.9-1.0, excellent sound absorption

Thermal-resistant: >0.4 (m2k/w)

Humidity: Dimensionally stable with RH up to 95% at  40c, no sagging, wrapping, or delaminating

Moisture rete:<1% (JC/T670-2005)

Enviromental impact: Tiles and packing are fully recyclable

Product Specifications:

Fiberglass Felt Ceiling Attractive Acoustics

FAQ:

1)Q:Are you a factory or trading company?

A: We are a factory.

2)Q: I am interested in the products but I do not have experience

   A: Tell us your budget and target market and we will give you professional advice of exact kinds and quantity.

 

3)Q: How can I get some samples?

A: We are honored to offer you samples.

4)Q:How does your factory do regarding quality control?

A: Quality is priority, we always attach great importance to quality controlling from every worker to

the very end.

 

Images:

Q: Hi I was thinking of bonding Hardiflex Fiber Cement Board to a Wood Chipboard, I want to know if it is possible to bond this two things using D3 Wood Glue?Will They be bonded with same strength as wood to wood?Thanks!
um I suppose you can find a good glue to bond it together. My question is why? Chipboard isn't resistant to water, the cement board is ... what are you trying to do? maybe there are better ideas.
Q: How to put tiles on the cement board
In the partition on the tile is generally the most common is: first need to paste the tiles with a grid (0.5X0.5) with 30 straight row nail fixed, so after a thin layer of cement on its bottom (select Thinner because when you have finished the wall after the finished tile thickness of about 4CM, if your bottom is too thick; in the passage of time there will be cracks, which is the overall wall in the wall caused by the top of the pull. So it is thin) and so on when it can quickly paste through the dry.
Q: i am trying to build a slideboard (he kind that speed skateres and hockey players use) by gluing a piece of particle board to a sheet of tileboard.yesterday i applied a generous amount of contact cement and put the two together immediately to dry. today they are not even sort of stuck together. what is the most likely cause?could it be because i did this in my dingy and freezing cold basement?or are you not supposed to use contact cement on particle board and or tileboard?the instructions did call for plywood and linoleum.
Contact adhesive should be applied to both surfaces and then allowed to set for about 20 - 30 minutes (until almost touch-dry) BEFORE bringing the surfaces together. BEWARE! Once the surfaces touch they will bond instantly, with no scope for repositioning. Leave the existing cement until thoroughly dry, then re-apply as per my instructions.
Q: I have an existing hardwood floor that I want to tile over (it's not in good condition). Can I put cement board then tile directly onto the hardwoods or do I need plywood on the hardwoods then cement board then tile? I don't want the floors to be 2 thick in addition to the hardwoods.
Nailing could be problematic. Nailing hardwood is done at an angle and the hardness of the cement board may cause the nails to deflect. Try it and see if it works.
Q: Composite foam cement board fire board grade and fire resistance limit?
Composite foam cement board fire board fire rating: Fire rating Class A: Class A is a noncombustible material, Class A fire resistance rating is very high, and the price is quite expensive.
Q: Do you know that light through the cement? What is the material and how to do it?
Transparent cement is a widely used with a new light transmission properties of building materials, is composed of fiber and fine grinding cement compounds. The cement is made up of thousands of optical fibers parallel to each other on both sides of the cement block. The proportion of fibers is very low (4%) throughout the cement block. In addition, because the fiber size is very small, so become a cement structure of a collection of components, cement block surface or uniform cement. Transparent cement can be used to build construction installations to build prefabricated blocks and cement boards. As the fiber size is small, so as a new ingredient mixed with the cement together to form a collection. Therefore, the final not only in the cement is mixed with two components of glass fiber only, but in the internal structure and the surface can achieve a balanced effect of new building materials. In theory, the light-permeable cement block can be built with a few meters of thickness of the wall, because the fiber in principle, within 20 meters will not lose any light information. The fiber does not affect the high capacity of the cement, so in these cement blocks can build any load of the building structure. The light-permeable cement block can be produced in a different size, and a heat-insulating layer can be added thereto.
Q: Cement fiberboard dry hanging practice?
Clean up the structure of the surface → the structure of the vertical line → large angle hanging two vertical steel wire → structural drilling and insert the expansion bolt → angle steel fixture → fixed vertical steel pipe → connecting the horizontal angle steel → connecting the horizontal aluminum keel → adjust and fixed → dry Hanging fiber cement pressure plate (aluminum back sheet on the back of the board installed in advance) → horizontal vertical adjustment → surface cleaning (column part of the panel seal sealant)
Q: I want to cut off a lip of about 1/8 by 1/2 to accomodate the upper lip of a tub. I plan to do this with several passes of an abrasive wheel in a circular saw set to 1/8. My question is will I be able to machine the board like this or will I get a crumbling mess? the Hardiback is 1/2.
Hardibaker peels like an onion in layers. We use it half thick often and we just cut it to size and then using a razor knife pushed in between the layers and pull them apart like opening a peanut butter sandwich. This may help you. If you run that saw on the line where you need the lip to start on the board then use your knife to split the layers and peel them down to the cut you made. This may be an easier solution then eating away the excess material a little at a time. Good Luck.
Q: Our (rented) townhouse has a very bleak cement block basement. Right now the blocks are painted white and cream (and not in a pretty pattern) and the floor is painted dark gray. We want to use the basement as a fitness room and a crafting area for scrapbooking. The lighting is also terrible. What are some ways we can brighten up the space and make it more hospitable without doing any permanent construction (remember we are renting) or spending a lot of money?
Craig's List will have inexpensive items (albeit used) for decorating. As for light construction work: The most important issue is waterproofing. Use Super ThoroCoat to seal and color the walls. For the floor, use oops paint from home depot. A 5 gallon bucket of an off color should do the trick, and it is normally marked down from $125 to $15. Yes, that is $110 off the normal price. Our local store ALWAYS has one or two garage or concrete floor 5 gallon buckets in the oops area that someone didn't pick up or didn't particularly like the color of. (Remember the most important rules in painting a concrete floor: Clean the floor first, make sure it is dry, apply paint and WAIT 48 hours before walking on it and three more days before putting furniture down on it.) Then, area rugs are cheap enough on Craig's list as well as Ikea furniture. They are BOTH available in good condition on Craig's list with little time wasted looking and great prices. Your landlord will appreciate your use of ThoroCoat or ThoroSeal on the walls and concrete paint on the floor. You will have done the right thing and have made it moisture resistant and waterproof too. FYI, our townhouse basement is done with these sealants. It worked well at keeping dust sealed in as well as taking away the dampness associated with normal basements.
Q: I've taken up old linoleum tile, chip board, and two other layers of linoleum to get down to an oak floor in my bathroom. This has a felt-like paper uniformly adhered to it that must have been the backing for the first linoleum layer. I'm going to put down Hardi-backer, then tile. Do I have to take up the old tile backing material before I put down the hardibacker? It's very difficult to remove. Thanks!
I've done it. And The kind of screws you need are not so specialized. Simple drywall screws. About 5 to 8 bucks for a box depending on their length. Now since you say you have no intention of pulling up the old vinyl flooring, and that the subflooring is plywood, I would seriously reconsider. If you are doing it this way out of sheer laziness, then dont do it at all. Also, why are you using cement backerboard for a floor? This is normally used in areas that will constantly be wet, such as a shower wall, steam room, etc. For the floor, and take it from me as I have done this before, and have worked with pros doing this as well. Rip out the vinyl flooring. Its extra work, but hey, do it right the first time not half... well you get the picture. Then once you have that done, you are left with the bare subfloor, typically Plywood or Particle board. Check to see if it is level first, if this is a new house, check to see if it is level anyways. Now, lay down over lapping layers of roofing paper. They should be overlapped by 4 inches. Nail them in place, dont glue or screw it down. Now that you have a good surface to start with, you can now begin your prep work for laying down your tile. Ok, so now you are probably asking, well, why not just leave the vinyl tile under it all, whats the difference. Well, right now, you may not think that it is, but later on you will. The thickness of that tile, plus the cement backerboard, or roofing paper will not transition decently into your adjacent rooms, and it will not look good. And yes, it will make a big difference. If you have any questions on how to go about laying the tile down, any tips, etc... feel free to ask.

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