• Fiber Cement Board Cement board,   Fireproof Non-asbestos System 1
  • Fiber Cement Board Cement board,   Fireproof Non-asbestos System 2
  • Fiber Cement Board Cement board,   Fireproof Non-asbestos System 3
Fiber Cement Board Cement board,   Fireproof Non-asbestos

Fiber Cement Board Cement board, Fireproof Non-asbestos

Ref Price:
$1.50 - 3.00 / m² get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
300000 m²/month

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High Density and Strength fiber cement board is a high quality calcium silicate architectural board reinforced with selected cellulose fibres and fillers.

The raw materials of fiber cement board are cellulose fiber, silicate cement, quartz sand, water and some additives. 

 It is 100% free from asbestos, sepiolite, inorganic fibres or formaldehyde.

Product Applications:

 The purpose of Cladboard is for climate-resistance, waterproof, wind loading resistance, UV proof and exterior wall leak protecting, and good thermal insulation. It can be used in exterior wall cladding and facade of various high-class and high rise civil buildings.

 

 

Cladboard especially for exterior wall cladding or facade in city high rise building or the building located in the seaside because of it high strength of wind load, impact and bending.

 

Product Advantages:

1)excellent fire-proof

2)excellent damp-proof

3)Durability and long service life

4)high strength

5)stable dimensions

6)good heat and sound insulation

7)non-asbestos

8)mould resistant

9)no deformation

Main Product Features:

 

1) Elegance and excellent decoration
2) Easy installation and convenient maintenance
3) Best Surface processed with PVC Lamination
4) Heat insulation, thermal insulation, moisture proof, mould proof, sound absorption and noise reduction

5) Incombustibility / Fireproof
6) No dust / no pollution

7) Stucturally strong

8) Over 15 years no transmutation

 

Product Specifications:

 

Fiber Cement Board Cement board,   Fireproof Non-asbestos

 

FAQ:

1. Q:What is the different and most important point from other supplier? 

A:We guarantee No asbestos if it has asbestos density will be more than 1.4g/cm3 what's more 

3.2mm*3000*1220mm can be produced by us other suppliers can not do this size 

2. Q:What are the advantages of your board?

A: outstanding light weight ,heat insulation, waterproof, fireproof, sound insulation, fast construction.

3. Q: Is the board fire resistant? 

A: Yes, fire resistant 4 h , in the heat of 1000℃.actually it is noncombustible Class A1.

4. Q: Do you have any certificate to help us get government's approval?

A:China testing report and our laboratory' s testing by ourselves as your supporting document. 

Because building standards are different in different countries, most of our customers buy the boards for testing and get approval by themselves.

5. Q: If we need samples for customer approval, will it be possible? 

A: Of course we can.

6. Q:How to guarantee the quality? 

A:Laboratory, integral testing process from raw materials to finished product until loading containers will be done by our factory.

 

Images:

 

 Fiber Cement Board Cement board,   Fireproof Non-asbestos

Fiber Cement Board Cement board,   Fireproof Non-asbestos

Fiber Cement Board Cement board,   Fireproof Non-asbestos

Fiber Cement Board Cement board,   Fireproof Non-asbestos

Fiber Cement Board Cement board,   Fireproof Non-asbestos

 

 

Q: I'm putting in a new tub surround this weekend (gutting the bathroom wall and starting from scratch). After I put cement board on the studs and install the tub surround, there will be a space about foot high between the surround and the ceiling. The cement board will be exposed. Can I paint the cement board so it matches the colors of the bathroom? Do I need to buy special paint or something? Obviously, I've never done this sort of thing before and I appreciate any advice I can get.
i put green board in in 97 and painted it twice. its still good. Green board is 6 foot to 9 feet above standup shower.
Q: Cement board to do the bathroom top off the skin, how to deal with
Cement board is not suitable for ceiling materials, it is easy to crack, a thorough way is to remove, re-integrated ceiling or waterproof gypsum board ceiling.
Q: I have a small bathroom approximately 4'x8' and I laid down and screwed in cement backer board. However, in my attention to detail I neglected to put down thin-set mortar underneath prior to screwing and taping down the board. I tried to pull the cement board up but I cant get under the tape that I mortared down to get to the screws. Am I in trouble here or can I go ahead and skip that and continue to tile? Please help...
OK... You didn't specify whether you're doing a floor tile job or a wall tile job. If doing a floor tile job, here is the procedure: You can (but don't have to) apply thin set directly to the plywood and then lay and screw down the cement backer board onto the wet thinset. If your floors are pretty firm already, you don't even need to put the thin set on the plywood. Just screw the cement backer board onto the plywood. The thinset makers tell you to put thinset between the plywood and the backer board just to sell more product. It's an unnecessary step if your floors are already pretty stiff. Make sure you screw the backer board down and hit the floor joists underneath with the screws. Screws only going into the plywood is not sufficient. All screws must enter the joists, so get those marked before you start. Use thinset with a notched trowel on top of the backer board to lay the tile into.
Q: Tile seems to be an expensive options. Want a finished look for less than tile
the guide from Ideas 4 Landscaping. This 1 stop database of more than 7000 higher resolution photos and strategies was developed by Helen Whitfield, a landscaping extraordinaire, educator, with more than 20 many years expertise designing AWARD-WINNING landscapes and getting featured in several magazines and publications, she envisions this collection as a layout package suitable for beginners
Q: how do I lay cement board on a concrete floor with out screws?
If the concrete floor is smooth, you can place the tiles on the concrete. The thinset will do the job. If the concrete is rough, try concrete refinisher. It's easy to use and will give a smooth surface. Hardi backer or cement board should be screwed to the floor. Use a masonry bit to drill the holes. Be sure to tape the seams and then proceed with your tile. Using a high speed drill will drill the holes quickly and easily. I do this for a living.
Q: Unfortinatly i already have the tile but i was hoping i could use self leveling cement then atattch the tile to it. is this even a posabilityor should i use hardyback board and if i do how can i atattch it to the cement
just use the self leveler, let it set and install the tile right on to the floor, no hardybacker needed....( use the right mastic ) lic. gen. contractor
Q: I came into many buckets of GAF TOPCOAT liquid which says it can be sprayed onto a roof or rolled on. I've only found one other idea for the walls in my wet room/shower area which is flexcement that is waterproof. Is it a good idea to try this or not. Really don't want to mess it up after putting much money into the walls as is. Here is the site that describes the product.
Since you ve gotten this product at no cost ( by the way you describe it), and I looked at the web site, I d say yes it is ok to use. I ve always used a specific waterproofing called Red Guard.And I know water proofing isn t cheap. Since this is a brush or spray on type of coating, it will be thin enough to get a nice smooth layer for tile. I would check and make sure its ok for vertical walls application. But I strongly suggest using the strongest latex modified thin set there is. This is what I need to bond to the Red Guard I use. Another suggest and I have to do this too, is to tape all areas with thin set and cement board tape and let dry. Getting all areas. Good time to think about a recessed shelf for shampoos and soaps. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: What are the risks if we do not install cement board first, if any?
Not putting an additional subflooring is almost a guaranteed failure. ATC and TCA are tile code guide lines that state that a minimum of 1 1/4 subflooring is needed to do tile. There are other circumstances ( like deflection) that come into play , but properly prepped subflooring is the best bet against failure. It doesnt need to be a cement board ( and there is a proper installation method) .There are other ways , depending or your exact situation that can be used to properly do tile. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: What is the best thing to do with the top floor of the house?
When dealing with nodes that have been repeatedly leaked for years, you need to be deeper and wider. Fill more dense to be more times, you can ensure that after treatment no longer cracked again. Extra large gushing water plugging. You can apply for plugging partner at the same time, you can adjust to 2-5 seconds quick condensate plugging.
Q: Our (rented) townhouse has a very bleak cement block basement. Right now the blocks are painted white and cream (and not in a pretty pattern) and the floor is painted dark gray. We want to use the basement as a fitness room and a crafting area for scrapbooking. The lighting is also terrible. What are some ways we can brighten up the space and make it more hospitable without doing any permanent construction (remember we are renting) or spending a lot of money?
get some cheap floresent light fixture at lowes or home depot get lots of them get some heat lamps and some potting mix and large pots and start your own basement marijuanna farm and rake in the dough then with the money by your dream home

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