Factory price 5 inch 40W auto lighting system led spot light

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 pc

Supply Capability:: 100000 pc/month

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Specifications

Factory price 5 inch 40W auto lighting system led spot light
1.Stainless steel bracket
2.high intensity LED
3.CE ROHS

1. Wide operating voltage range: it can apply to different types of vehicles .

2. Long life: more than ordinary advanced LED light bulbs, more than 30000 hours life .

3. Aluminum casing, shock-proof waterproof better.

4. Light perception: a softer light to prevent glare.

5. Waterproof and anti-corrosion: it can in the rain or harsh environments.

6. Lumen is 90-120LUMEN / W, much higher than ordinary halogen 20-30LUMEN / W.

7. One year limited warranty.

8. LED work lights are widely applied to enhance lighting, eg.Vessels,Bus,Off-road vehicles,Trucks,Fire Engines,Forklifts,Mining,Trains,Tanks,etc

Q: I have a store bought diagnostic machine that the guys who work in the shop and sold it to me said it really does work, which I tend to believe since them saying so could result in them losing money. Anyhow, I have a small emissions system leak, did the gas cap, reset the light, it cam back on. So, I am calling around to see who can fix it for the least amount of money. My local dealership said they would have to still run a diagnostics test running me $100 more dollars even though i can tell them what the problem is. They said their diagnostic will tell them precisely where the leak is, which sounds a little fishy to me, i don‘t think that machine would tell them that, wouldn‘t it be a visual or some other type of inspection other than the diagnostic machine. also, regardless of the diagnostics, how much should this run me so i know who is trying to steal from me and who is being more honest? This is not covered under my extended warrenty.: This is a generally easy question to answer. The leak could be anywhere in your exhaust system. From the exhaust headers on the front/side of the engine, all the way back to the muffler. Generally, though, these leaks tend to be around the O2 (oxygen) sensors. Most cars have 2. Some could have 1-3 of them. Go to an exhaust specialist and ask them if they could help you find the leak. Otherwise, if it is not the exhaust, it could be a vacuum leak in the engine bay. Most engines now have rubber hoses that are all over the engine that allow air to be pulled through various areas of the engine. If you can do it yourself, check all the hoses and see if you can find one that is detached. A good source of reference would be a Hanes auto manual which you can pick up from Auto Zone. Hope this helps! BB2

Q: My check engine light is flashing when i accelerate on my 1989 ford bronco. it doesn't flash with coasting or just idling. Only when i am accelterating. Auto Zone cant read it because it is a soft code. How do i find out why it is flashing?: maybe the software has just realised that you've got an american engine? Joke My car used to show the handbrake light as on whenever i was accelerating. Actually it was mostly when i was accelerating pretty hard that it lit up. That turned out to be a loose cable in the sensor switch. So it may be worth logically following as many electrical contacts to eliminate them, it can be quite a task unless you are lucky and stumble across fairly early on. Good luck and if you don't get lucky i'd send it in to get looked at professionally.

Q: I have a 2001 hyundai accent with 84,000 miles. It was running perfectly fine until I drove in the hurricane, about halfway to the store my check engine light came on any idea why? What should I do?: The check engine light actually has very little to do with the engine itself, it comes on when something in the emissions system isnt working properly. If you went through a bunch of standing water it most likely took out your exhaust o2 sensor. Not much to worry about but have an auto parts place do a scan for you.

Q: Engine light should i be concerned? 02 jetta gls 1.8t auto 50k?: yes if the engine light comes on and stays on there is most definitely a problem have it checked out asap before it damages other components it may be just a simple fix or it could be a very costly repair you have to weigh the options Ive had several cars that weren't worth spending the money to repair them you have to decide you may have to fix one problem to find another so don't be surprised if you have to replace one part right after another good luck

Q: Ok so today i go to work. Clock in, work, clock out. Sure enough when i walk out, what do i see. I see my lights are on and very dim. I know immediately what happened. So just to try. I try to start it. It doesnt make a noise. So i go inside and find my friend who just got off work as well. We try and jump it. It turns over as usual but it wont fire. Then my dad gets there and we get it to fire. Turns out i had to give the gas pedal a little pump. So it runs, but the engine light stays on. I figure its because my battery is super close to dead, completely dead. However, my jeep wont idle. If i let off the gas completely the rpms just go down until it dies. So that makes me think, maybe the engine light is on for something other than the battery. Before work it was fine, absolutely nothing wrong. I got it home, after it dying once on the way home. So whats wrong. Is it the battery. Or is it something thats gonna cost me an arm and leg to fix? I certainly hope not. Thanks.: You said the engine light stays on. If this light is the Battery Light or Charging light, then your Alternator is faulty and needs repair. Probably your Alternator was on its last leg and then given the job of working hard to charge a flat battery, it pushed it over the edge and is now faulty.

Q: hii have a dodge charger 2008. engine 3.5 v6the problem is i have the check engine light keeps coming and going,when its on it goes off after restarting the car for 5 or 6 times.i have changed the engine oil and the air filter and still have the same problem.any suggestions ?: If you take the car to any Dodge dealer, they'll read your computer and tell you *exactly what is causing the check engine light. More than likely one of the two *oxygen sensors need changing or the *mass air flow sensor needs to be cleaned.

Q: just replaced the mass air sensor and i cant get the check engine light off. any suggestions?: cold air intakes are the same type of junk that the mini super chargers were/fakes and junk will do nothing for your car because the car has an electric computer controlling the engine/that limits timing/fuel injection/trans shifts and all types of power out put//i have seen claims of 50 to 100 hp for this bunch of sewer pipes and never any real proof/the only real thing is a guy with a super laptop and a computer program and go for it/if they gave 100 hp they would be on every car on the planet/cost me a lot of money to get about 35 hp/and i never had one/they come on supercharged cars for obvious reasons

Q: I had it diagnosed at a local auto parts store and the printout said the system is too lean. Is there a way to adjust it or a way to program the computer without taking it to the dealer? Also it idles VERY rough. What can I do?: You cant adjust it or the computer. You can take to a professional shop or a dealer. It will cost some money for the proper diagnostics. Today computer systems are to complex to diagnois without a scan tool and a code reader from a parts store just doesnot give anyone enough information to pin point the problem. It could be a O2 Sensor or the catalytic converter but is something to do with the fuel and exhaust system

Q: 2003 Toyota Avalon XLS.The battery was installed in Aug 2013 (before I owned the car) according to the label on it. The battery itself and the connections look good with no rust on the terminals or the wire, however, I did clip and put a new, better end on the negative cause it was slightly questionable. (Still the lights flickered after that). Went to Advance Auto and had them run a battery/charge test. (all the tests were run off the battery) Results:Good batteryVoltage: 13.01VMeasured 539 ccaRated for 575 ccaTemp: 66FCharging SystemNo Load: 14.09VLoaded: 14.11V36mV RippleStill, the lights flicker. Alternator issue? I‘m about to install a 300w amp too.Hmmm. If its the alternator I‘ll obviously just replace it but would like to leave that as a last resort.: Measure between the negative battery post and the chassis. I bet you have a missing engine to chassis ground. It could also be a bad alternator. They often test good because they get intermittent. Battery and alternator tests in shops are overrated.

Q: I have seen some comments about unplugging the battery, but I am not sure how to proceed.: Best thing to do is take it to the dealer. its a safety issue, even if you unplug the battery, the problem is not fixed.

Send your message to us

*Email

*TEL

*Quantity

*Unit