• End Suction Diesel Engine Driven Fire Fighting  Pump System 1
  • End Suction Diesel Engine Driven Fire Fighting  Pump System 2
  • End Suction Diesel Engine Driven Fire Fighting  Pump System 3
End Suction Diesel Engine Driven Fire Fighting  Pump

End Suction Diesel Engine Driven Fire Fighting Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
10000 set/month

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                       End Suction Diesel Engine Driven Fire Fighting Pump

1.Structure of End Suction Diesel Engine Driven Fire Fighting Pump Description

The diesel driven fire-fighting pump group can be formed with electric motor pumps and jockey pumps as an automatic fire-fighting water supply system (see tabel1). For more details, please see our document "Diesel Engine Control System". The system also can be connected to the fire-fighting center.

Being the auto-control unit, a separate diesel engine auto-control panel (programmable) carries out the system’s automatic start, run, auto-switch (the electric motor pump unit is switched to the diesel engine pump or the diesel engine pump unit to another diesel pump unit), auto-protection (warning and stop protection for the diesel engine’s over-speed, lower oil pressure, high water temperature, three-time start failures, low voltage of accumulator warning etc.) and also can be connected to user’s fire-fighting center or the fire auto-warning device with the purpose of remote monitoring.

 

2.Main Features of  End Suction Diesel Engine Driven Fire Fighting Pump

• Automatic Control

• Manual water adding and water self-priming

•Convenient installation and maintenance

Customized design is available, OEM and ODM are welcomed.

3.  End Suction Diesel Engine Driven Fire Fighting Pump Images

  End Suction Diesel Engine Driven Fire Fighting  Pump

4. End Suction Diesel Engine Driven Fire Fighting Pump Specification

 

Ambient temperature

+5°c~+40°c

Pump diameter

350-1600mm

Flow range

1~200L/s

Pressure range

0.2~2.25MPa

Motor power range

1.5~200kW

Inlet/outlet Diameter

DN50~DN200mm

 

5.FAQ

What is the applications

The Electrical Driven Vertical Fire Fighting Pump is used for water suppply for fire fighting application.

How to guarantee the quality of the products

We have established the international advanced quality management systemevery link from raw material to final product we have strict quality testWe resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance. Normally, We have 1 year warranty.

How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. It related to the state and detailed requirement of customers.

 

Q: Looking for a pro's advice here. My Corolla has developed a strange noise over the past few cold weeks (Highs of 10 degrees max, well below zero at night). The sound would best be described as a cricket-type rythmic chirp noticable during acceleration. I don't believe it's a belt because it comes and goes though it has steadily gotten louder. I vaguely remember this sound being related to a bad water pump I had a few years ago. Do you think this could be the same thing? Three years for a water pump? And do water pumps tend to go out more frequently in the cold weather? Thanks!!!
You can do a prelimary check on the water pump. The water pump on this vehicle is not internally driven so the pulley is exposed outside the timing cover. Grab hold of the pulley and try to push it back and forth. There should not be any noticeable play. If there is, the pump is bad. Could it go out in three years? Sure it can especially if the pump previously installed was remanufactured and not brand new. If still in doubt, remove the water pump belt and start the engine. If the noise is still there, then the pump is not the problem. I live on a tropical island, so I can't help with the weather question, but I believe if you use the right type of antifreeze in the right mix ratio there should be no additional wear on the pump in cold weather. The thermostat should keep the engine at normal operating temperature regardless of the outside temperature (except for while it's warming up initially). Good luck!!
Q: Here is the deal...*Van over heats*Blows Cold quot;heatquot;*Added coolant and water (nothing happened)*Started van, felt the hoses (no h2o flowing thru)I really think my water pump is out, but I am not sure. Does this sound like my water pump. If so, I plan on changing it myself, how do i find step by step instructions to do so.... I have never done it before, but I cant afford to take it to a mechanic! Thanks for your help!
make sure thermostat is working properly and cooling system is bled properly to remove all air. If this doesnt work I would suspect head gaskets as Nissan engines in Villagers are known to blow head gaskets if ran hot for extended periods
Q: I have a Goulds JPlus water pump inside my home. Last night, my wife and I heard it going on and off repeatedly when we went to bed. I have two shallow wells hooked up to it, so I switched wells even though I didn't believe the one I was on was dry (it was supplying H2O fine).Still no luck, so I turned it off at the breaker and shut off the valve between the tank and pressure switch. Today, the pump pressure gets to between 50 and 60, then goes off. It then loses pressure v ery quickly (approx 10-20 seconds) and goes back on when the pump switch hits the lower threshold. It sounds like the water is running back through the pump and out of the house when it goes off unless I turn the shut off valve I spoke of earlier. I changed the pressure switch and no difference.I can, however, turn it on and shower, flush, etc. I just then have to go down and turn the pump back off.Any help would be greatly appreciated!
If there is space try to hit the head of the bolt with a hammer, the shock from the hammer blow will help you to loosen the bolt. Failing that the next thing to try is an allen key socket, with this you can use a long strong arm to apply extra torque to the bolt. Be carefully not to open up the head of the bolt as this can be a major pain. If you still cannot get it out then if the water pump is to be replaced try to get an angle grinder on the bolt to cut its head off. Once the head is off and the pump is out you can use a stud extractor of a good vice grip to remove the stub of bolt left over.
Q: I'm only 18 and don't know much about cars, but my car was overheating so me and my boyfriend brought it to a mechanic.They told me it needs a new timing belt and water pump and that alone would be like 1450.. From my research that sounds like bullshit. By the way I drive a 2000 neon, is it THAT hard to work on, or am I being ripped off?
Your water pump is shot, it's not pumping water through out your engine to cool it off. Usually timing belt has to be taken off or loosed to get to the water pump. In that case why not replace the belt along with the water pump. Let's discuss the break down of the labor and parts. 2000 neon timing belt - $50 2000 neon water pump - $80 2000 neon timing bolt package and misc gasket seals - $20 3 hour job to replace the timing belt $50 per hour x 3 = $150 for labor. So you should actually end up paying $300 at most for the job and that's what I usually pay a Joe mechanic down the street at his back yard garage. The $1150 is the profit cut so your getting screwed. Cheer up, when I was little older than you I paid $4000 for timing belt and water pump for my NSX at the dealer.
Q: Please specify the reason, the more detailed the better, the head is the pump 1N fluid on the work done, when the flow rate increases, the shaft power increases, but it does not necessarily have to do with the head of the relationship
When the power increases to a certain extent, can not be increased, so when the flow increases, the head can only be reduced
Q: i heard a water pump should not be able to move.is that correct? It is a 1995 RM250. there is no clogging in the pipes coming from the radiators with 2 fingers require force to move them but with the 1 finger it requires no force to move a couple Centimeters.
The water pump is turned by the primary gear on the crankshaft. When you were turning the water pump - the crankshaft was moving the piston up down in the cylinder. The couple of centimeters of movement is just the play between the gears - that's normal.
Q: I have a 2000 A4 1.8 T with 91 k miles on it. I went to the dealer for my oil service. I told them that I hear a quot;clinkingnoise when I start the car and that it goes away after the car runs for 5 minutes. I told them to check this also. They diagnosed and said that the water pump has gone bad and needs to be replaced. Since it was close to 105 K miles, I might as well change the timing belt. Total charges for both is 1250. And they also see that Cam Seals starting to leak oil. Since I was doing the timing belt, I might as well change them too. Additional cost to do them is 950. So the total for all three comes down to 2200. I bought the car at 90 K and checked it at Firestone and they said it was cool. They noticed an oil leak but said it was not anything major that needs to be taken care of right away. Do you think the dealer is taking me for a ride here? I just drove 500 miles and would things go this bad all of a sudden? Or should I make the replacements? Please advise.
these prices are correct for dealership quote. you will get a cheaper price with independent shop. your timing belt should be changed anytime after 75k miles. the timing belt and belt tensioner will break and you do not want to have replace the cyl. head, it's alot more money. the dealership lied about your water pump. that year the water pump runs off the drive belts not the timing belt. you can replace the water pump and not even touch your timing belt. your cam adjuster seal probably not leaking. what happens is the valve cover leaks oil on to the cam adjuster and is commonly mis-diagnosed. try just changing the valve cover gasket, clean up your excess oil and reinspect the seals on the back of your cylinder head after 500 miles. good luck.
Q: I just bought a 1997 Honda Civic, done about 85k. There is no record of the timing belt having ever been changed so I want to get this done as a priority. My usual mechanic can't do it for a month due to other commitments so I have been ringing round for quotes, and generally these have all been to change the belt quot;plus the kit- which makes sense, change the lot while you are in there.Surprisingly, the cheapest quote I have had was from my local Honda dealer, however, they have said this is for the belt only as they don't change the tensioner/water pump on this model. Are they full of it? I'm not sure whether to take this as expertise from the car's manufacturer or total BS from some chancer trying to make money from us having to come back when other things go wrong!
Dealers are notorious for just replacing exactly what needs replacing. They will replace the belt, then six months later the water pump will go out, or the tensioner will start making noise, and neither will be covered under warranty of the original repair. Change all wearing items when you change the belt, and you won't have any problems in that area for years.
Q: My 1998 Dodge Dakota V6 heater only gets warm, I have replaced the thermostat. I have back flushed the heater core. The heater hose coming from near the thermostat gets hot, but the hose coming from the heater core going to the water pump only gets warm. The large hose coming from the thermostat is hot near the engine, but is only warm near the radiator. Is the water pump bad? If I open the radiator cap there is no signs of circulation. How do I check the water pump?Thanks,Gene
Have you checked the valve that shuts off the coolant when the heater is not required? It, or the pipes/ hoses to it, may be blocked, or the valve inoperative. I'd bet the coolant is not being allowed to circulate through the core by something. Backflushing doesn't guarantee the core isn't gunked up, either.
Q: I would like to make a simple electric pump that can pump water. I would like to know how it works. I would be most thankful if you can provide me a link of an animated video on how motor works.
Electric motors do NOT pump water, they need to be coupled to a pump to do that. What is a hand driven motor? The word motor implies electric driven. Perhaps you mean hand operated pump?

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