• Electric Booster Water Pump High Pressure System 1
  • Electric Booster Water Pump High Pressure System 2
  • Electric Booster Water Pump High Pressure System 3
Electric Booster Water Pump High Pressure

Electric Booster Water Pump High Pressure

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Product description:

CDLF vertical multistage stainless steel centrifugal pump, processed from the world advanced technology , takes the advantages of outstanding design of hydraulic model, high efficiency and sound energy conservation. The inside impeller, casing and other main components are all stainless steel punched. The flow channel is fairly smooth. The bearing shell and sleeve are made of hard alloy to achieve excellent service life and to avoid secondary pollution.Shaft seal uses wearing resistant mechanical seal to enable sound leak-tightness.

 

Application:

CDL/CDLF pump are multi-functional products. 

It can be used to convey various medium from tap water to industrial liquid at different temperature and with different flow rate and pressure. 

CDLF type is applicable to convey non-corrosive liquid, while CDLF is suitable for slightly corrosive liquid.

Water supply: Water filter and transport in Waterworks, boosting of main pipeline, boosting in high-rise buildings.
Industrial boosting: Process flow water system, cleaning system, highpressure washing system, fire fighting system.

Industrial liquid conveying: Cooling and air-conditioning, system ,boiler water supply and condensing system, 

machine-associated purpose, acids and alkali.
Water treatment: Ultrafiltration system, reverse osmosis system, distillation system, separator, swimming pool.
Irrigation: Farmland irrigation, spray irrigation, dripping irrigation.

 

Technical Data:

Flow rate: up to 32 m³/h

Head: up to 196 m

Speed: max 2900 rpm

Temperature: max 120 °C

Casing pressure: up to 4.8MPa

Shaft seal: mechanical sealing

Material: nodular iron, stainless steel, duplex

 

Q: My 2005 Lexus IS300 is close to 90K miles and I believe the timing belt/water pump should be replaced. I have priced this with several dealers and mechanics and at this time I can't afford close to $1000 to have this done. However, I see there are kits that can be purchased for about $400.Can a DIY'er with above average mechanical experience replace the belt nd pump relatively easily?
This Site Might Help You. RE: Is it very difficult for a DIY'er to replace the timing belt/water pump on a 2005 Lexus IS300? My 2005 Lexus IS300 is close to 90K miles and I believe the timing belt/water pump should be replaced. I have priced this with several dealers and mechanics and at this time I can't afford close to $1000 to have this done. However, I see there are kits that can be purchased for about $400. Can...
Q: The water is being put in because it was overheating. We changed the thermostat and everything and it got better, but about a month later it started overheating again and now it is leaking water bad from underneath the car. Whatever is leaking is covered by a shield thing. Im not sure what it is, and I dont want to replace it before I know if thats really what it is. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
If the leak is on the passenger side of the car (near the tire) then it is most likely your water pump. It is driven by the serpentine belt that drives most of the visible components on the passenger side of the engine. (power steering, A/C, Alternator etc) To check it, you need to look UNDER the water pump, it has a weep hole. If this small (1/8) hole is wet, or shows signs of having been leaking (like discoloration or rust) then your waterpump seals or bearings are going. The unit must be replaced. This should also fix your over heating problems. If the leak is near the back-center of the engine, then it may be a frost plug (also called a freeze plug) these are designed to pop if the enging coolant freezes to prevent damage to the engine block, they can also be opened if the engine over heats. Be careful when replacing this plug, if you drive it INTO the engine, you will have to dismantle the engine to get it out again. On the plus side, you can get rubber plugs that are easy to install and quite inexpensive. I'd place the water pump as the most likely problem.
Q: My deep water pump buzzes when it pumps or something it just happen this morning so whats wrong with it
If it's not pumping water then something is definitely wrong. It may be clogged, if it's buzzing. It could also be that the well is running dry, although this is EXTREMELY rare. If you think you're up to it, open the well head and yank that bad boy to the surface and check it out. This is a long and messy process, and usually best left to the professionals. But really, it's not that hard to replace a deep well pump. just clip the water line, replace with new clamps on the top of the new pump, connect and seal the wiring, and put a few cholorine tabs in the hole, to re-sanitize it after opening, and you're good to go. don't forget to turn off the breaker first HA HA!
Q: antifreeze leaking from the water pump. antifreeze wont stay in car, car overheating. 96 chevy cavalier. 2.4
When the bearings go out it damages the seal, which allows coolant to leak from the weep hole. Change the pump ASAP. You don't want the fan going thru the radiator.
Q: The pump assembly and the pump are not a thing
The pump assembly and the pump are the same, just name different, as all the car parts are called assembly, the pump is the same, called water pump assembly. Also, the pump half assembly is the water pump head.A pump is a machine that transports liquids or pumps liquids. It will be the prime mover of the mechanical energy or other external energy transfer to the liquid, the liquid energy increase, mainly used to transport liquids including water, oil, alkali liquid, emulsion, suspension emulsion and liquid metal, but also transport liquid, gas mixtures and liquids containing suspended solids. Pump performance of technical parameters are flow, suction, lift, shaft power, water power, efficiency, etc.; according to the different principles of work can be divided into volume pumps, vane pumps and other types. Displacement pump is to use its studio volume changes to transfer energy; vane pump is to use the rotating blade and water interaction to transfer energy, there are centrifugal pumps, axial flow pumps and mixed flow pumps and other types.
Q: Okay, I'm setting up an NFT hydroponic garden and am now looking for the water pump. I would like some suggestions for one that will give a steady stream at a good rate for the plants. But, it must have a minimum lift of 5ft to reach the first level.I would prefer one with a flow rate adjustment but if you could at least make a suggestion to the GPH it should pump for the right flow after a 5 ft climb I could search more in that range for one I like.Thank you!
I think you may want to look at the small pond pumps and just about any nursery or home supply store or landscaping store. they may have the specs on hand, or see if they can demo one for you. some places have a display pond set up already. You also might try a small swimming pool pump and put a voltage regulator in the line and adjust the pump speed that way. maybe rig a sewing machine pedal in the line and use a C clamp for an adjuster. I love rigging thing. It may not work with a gfi plug.
Q: i dont think that the water pump is out. i have a 88 evinrude outboard and the other day i noticed that the water was barley trickling out the hose. then it just stopped coming out the hose. it still comes out of the exhaust just fine. the motor is not get hot. is it ok if it still comes out the exhaust/ i will attemp to run a wire up in the hose to see if it is clogged later today. what do yous think
i use air pressure, but a piece of wire usually works.you may try to back flush it with a water hose.
Q: I have a 1998 ford taurus. It started to over heat so i turned on the heater full blast and it didn't get hot. so i put antifreeze in it and i turned it on and it seemed ok but it started to over heat again and the tank for the antifreeze looked like the cap was going to pop off. I was just down the road from my house so i thought if i drove slow i could make it home and it turned on ok but when i put it in drive it stalled. Does this mean its the water pump??????
Hmm it has somthing to do with all your fluids if antifreeze cap looks like that but it would be best to get it looked at I may be wrong
Q: I got my oil changed yesterday and took like a 3 hour drive and back home and had no issues.. today I was at my work visiting and I noticed smoke coming from the engine [sort of more of steam] and a lot of smoke coming from the exhaust. The light on the gauge inside the car for the engine temp isn't working but all the other ones are. A mechanic told me it was a bad water pump, but I just want some more opinions. Or if the oil change could of effected that.. My engine coolant wasn't that low but a greenish liquid was really leaking from underneath the car.
*shakes magic ball* I think its the heater control valve.
Q: How do I check my well water pumping system to see if there is a leak? I have terrible rusty water.
the only way to check it is to have a well pump service pull the pump and check the verticle lines. they tend to rust out. you can have them replaced by pvc lines now. when our pump went out we had all of the lines replaced because several of the galvanized lines had pin holes in them

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches

Related keywords