• Electric Booster Water Pump High Pressure System 1
  • Electric Booster Water Pump High Pressure System 2
  • Electric Booster Water Pump High Pressure System 3
Electric Booster Water Pump High Pressure

Electric Booster Water Pump High Pressure

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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Product description:

CDLF vertical multistage stainless steel centrifugal pump, processed from the world advanced technology , takes the advantages of outstanding design of hydraulic model, high efficiency and sound energy conservation. The inside impeller, casing and other main components are all stainless steel punched. The flow channel is fairly smooth. The bearing shell and sleeve are made of hard alloy to achieve excellent service life and to avoid secondary pollution.Shaft seal uses wearing resistant mechanical seal to enable sound leak-tightness.

 

Application:

CDL/CDLF pump are multi-functional products. 

It can be used to convey various medium from tap water to industrial liquid at different temperature and with different flow rate and pressure. 

CDLF type is applicable to convey non-corrosive liquid, while CDLF is suitable for slightly corrosive liquid.

Water supply: Water filter and transport in Waterworks, boosting of main pipeline, boosting in high-rise buildings.
Industrial boosting: Process flow water system, cleaning system, highpressure washing system, fire fighting system.

Industrial liquid conveying: Cooling and air-conditioning, system ,boiler water supply and condensing system, 

machine-associated purpose, acids and alkali.
Water treatment: Ultrafiltration system, reverse osmosis system, distillation system, separator, swimming pool.
Irrigation: Farmland irrigation, spray irrigation, dripping irrigation.

 

Technical Data:

Flow rate: up to 32 m³/h

Head: up to 196 m

Speed: max 2900 rpm

Temperature: max 120 °C

Casing pressure: up to 4.8MPa

Shaft seal: mechanical sealing

Material: nodular iron, stainless steel, duplex

 

Q: I do pump sales ~ only to enter the line soon ~ often asked how many levels of motor? I can't recognize myself! So ask for advice here
Look at the speed, see the modelFor example, the actual 1430r/min synchronous speed is 1500 rpm, the speed formula: speed = time (60 seconds) * frequency (50HZ) divided by the number of pole pairs one pole of 2 pole, which can be calculated 3000 83019 1500=2 on pole or 4 pole motor.See model is more straightforward: for example motor model is Y 132 M- 4Y, three-phase asynchronous motor, the three-phase asynchronous motor product name: YR for winding type asynchronous motor; YB explosion-proof induction motor; YQ high starting torque of asynchronous motor. ?132, a high center (mm)M code, frame length4, the number of polesFrom the motor nameplate marked, you can see that the motor is 2, model FW12-2, speed 2840
Q: The water is being put in because it was overheating. We changed the thermostat and everything and it got better, but about a month later it started overheating again and now it is leaking water bad from underneath the car. Whatever is leaking is covered by a shield thing. Im not sure what it is, and I dont want to replace it before I know if thats really what it is. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
If the leak is on the passenger side of the car (near the tire) then it is most likely your water pump. It is driven by the serpentine belt that drives most of the visible components on the passenger side of the engine. (power steering, A/C, Alternator etc) To check it, you need to look UNDER the water pump, it has a weep hole. If this small (1/8) hole is wet, or shows signs of having been leaking (like discoloration or rust) then your waterpump seals or bearings are going. The unit must be replaced. This should also fix your over heating problems. If the leak is near the back-center of the engine, then it may be a frost plug (also called a freeze plug) these are designed to pop if the enging coolant freezes to prevent damage to the engine block, they can also be opened if the engine over heats. Be careful when replacing this plug, if you drive it INTO the engine, you will have to dismantle the engine to get it out again. On the plus side, you can get rubber plugs that are easy to install and quite inexpensive. I'd place the water pump as the most likely problem.
Q: Weap seal is starting to leak and getting some noise from the water pump. These cars are not as easy as a 1969 Camaro to change the water pump. Can you please give me some guidance? Thx in advance.
The water pump is interior the middle of the front of engine and is pushed via the timing belt. There are brackets and covers, plus cooling followers and so on, to eliminate earlier attending to the pump. no longer a undesirable interest, and way much less annoying than doing the two head gaskets on that ingredient.
Q: Where is the water pump located on a 1993 mitsubishi eclipse with a 1.8 motor
Your water pump would be located on the right hand side of the motor. It has the fan belt running on the pulley in front of it the top water hose is connected to it. I hope this has helped you out.
Q: I'm just wondering where I should buy my new water pump for my 2.2 cavalier? Auto zone, carquest, checker? Does it matter which one?Thanks
You can buy your new water pump via Powamac, they are exceptional in services. They provide you pump which satisfy your needs completely.
Q: I have a water leak, and not from the radiator. It is on the side of the motor where the timing belt is. Could it be the water pump? or possibly freeze plugs? If so where are these?
On your car the timing belt drives the water pump. At the same time check the tension er. and replace the belt. its a big job. you drop the front engine mount on most models.
Q: I will be replacing my timing belt soon. The dealer is suggesting that I also replace the water pump. Is that really necessary? When do water pumps normally go out?
The labor involved in replacing a timing belt will normally cover the installation of a water pump as well. The reason the dealer is recommending the water pump replacement at this time is that the labor involved in changing the timing belt makes it much more cost effective for you to do it at this time. Even though your water pump is working great right now, if you need to replace it in the future, the labor cost will be enormous and close to the cost of replacing your timing belt alone.
Q: How do you measure and analyse the pump characteristics and efficiency?
An automotive water pump consists of a steel shaft with an impeller (like a steamboat paddle wheel) on one end and a pulley flange on the other. The shaft spins on bearings located in a cast iron or aluminum housing. The housing has internal passages to allow the water to enter the impeller cavity and exit, often to a tube like structure (part of the housing casting) to which one of the rubber radiator hoses attaches. How it works is simple. Water present in the impeller cavity is confined and pushed to the outlet by the rotating vanes of the impeller. The rotation of the pump is usually driven by a belt powered by a pulley on the engine which turns a second pulley mounted to the pumps pulley flange. The characteristics might include things like, is the pump self priming or is it self lubricating? In an automotive system the answer to both questions is yes. To evaluate a pumps efficiency you would want to set up a test rig where you attach the pumps outlet to a long hose and use it to fill a calibrated container (one gallon, five gallons etc). Then with a stopwatch you can either time how long it takes to fill a gallon container or you can measure the volume of water pumped in a minute. Either way you will get useful information you can use to evaluate the pumps efficiency. You should repeat the above test at different engine RPM's to discover if the pump has peak efficiency (or lack of efficiency) at a particular RPM or range of RPM's. Finally, if you do this experiment for real be sure you add water as fast as you pump it out so you don't over heat the engine and damage it. Have fun.
Q: My Ram is leaking collant bad but it doesnt seem to be coming from the water pump it seems like it is coming from directly below the water pump. What part is this and is it even possible for this part to be leaking coolant?
pump bad or a hose above pump leaking 90% of time pump bad get a flashlight to see more or get a better look have it put on a lift at a shop but most likey water pump gone
Q: How do I check my well water pumping system to see if there is a leak? I have terrible rusty water.
the only way to check it is to have a well pump service pull the pump and check the verticle lines. they tend to rust out. you can have them replaced by pvc lines now. when our pump went out we had all of the lines replaced because several of the galvanized lines had pin holes in them

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