• Ductile Iron Gate Valve Non-Rising Stem of DIN3352 F5 System 1
  • Ductile Iron Gate Valve Non-Rising Stem of DIN3352 F5 System 2
  • Ductile Iron Gate Valve Non-Rising Stem of DIN3352 F5 System 3
  • Ductile Iron Gate Valve Non-Rising Stem of DIN3352 F5 System 4
Ductile Iron Gate Valve Non-Rising Stem of DIN3352 F5

Ductile Iron Gate Valve Non-Rising Stem of DIN3352 F5

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 unit
Supply Capability:
100000 unit/month

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Non-rising resilient seated gate valves solve the problem in general gate valves such as leakage, rusting etc. and saves installation space. It is used widely in tap water industry, sewage treatment, shipping construction, petroleum, chemicals, food, pharmacy, textile, electric power, metallurgy and energy system's pipeline to adjust and shut off fluids.

l  Replaceable O-ring

l  Low torque operation

l  Rubber encapsulated wedge

l  Clockwise closing direction

l  Fusion bonded epoxy coated inside and outside

 

Specification

Body materials: Ductile Iron

Design standard: DIN3352 F5

Design pressure: PN10/PN16/PN25

Size: DN80mm-DN2000

Connect type: Flanged gate valve

Seal type: Resilient seated gate valve, EPDM+ Ductile Iron

Coating:

Fusion bonded epoxy coated both on the interior as well as the exterior surfaces of the valve, flange surfaces are also fully epoxy coated, blue color.

 

Application

Potable water, neutral liquids, irrigation, heating and chilled water, fire systems etc, in either above ground or buried service applications and requires minimal maintenance

 

Feature

This Ductile Iron Resilient Seated Gate Valve is fully compliant to DIN3352 F4. We have light weight type, heavy weight type and even middle weight type for your reference, and these three options design construction of ductile iron will offer a robust and durable extended life performance.

 

1-   Bolted bonnet, full bore: used for larger valves and higher pressure applications.

2-   Stem sealed with O-rings: realize zero leakage, could be replace under full pressure.

3-   Rubber encapsulated wedge: excellent elastic memory, ensure sealing effect.

4-   Blue fusion boned epoxy coated inside and outside: suitable for portable water.

5-   Working pressure from -1 to +16 and working temperature from -10 to +80°C

 

Durable

This valve is suitable for use in a wide range of applications including potable water, neutral liquids, irrigation, heating and chilled water, fire systems etc, in either above ground or buried service applications and requires minimal maintenance. This Resilient Seated Gate Valves have a rated working pressure of 16 Bar. The valves seal 100% leak tight. The waterway is clear, unobstructed and free from pockets. Resilient seated gate valves are fusion bonded epoxy coated both on the interior as well as the exterior surfaces of the valve, flange surfaces are also fully epoxy coated.

 

Advantage

1-   OEM Factory : Professional manufacturer, clients from whole world.

2-   High Quality, Competitive Price: Custom is accepted.

3-   Complete Service: Long service Life, Fast delivery, Multilingual services.

4-   Certificates: ISO9001, CE, NSF, TS, WRAS.

5-   Low MOQ: Ready for providing the sample and producing some small orders.

 

FAQ

Q: Are you manufacturer of trading company? Which kind of valves do you supply?

A: We are a professional manufacturer of butterfly valves, check valve, non-return valves, gate valves, Y-strainer and so on.

 

Q: Will you do inspection before shipment? Whether Third Party Inspection is available?

A: We have a professional engineer team, so we can offer you the most professional technical support. All valves are tested twice before and after hammer pin to ensure its perfect sealing property and to make sure every valve is ok before ex-factory. TPI is ok but the clients should bear all fees.

 

Q: What kind of package do you use for these valves?

A: Valves from DN80-DN1400 will be packed in wooden boxes, but valves above DN1400 will be in wooden pallets. If you need wooden boxes for above DN1400, the price may be more expensive.

Ductile Iron Gate Valve Non-Rising Stem of DIN3352 F5

Ductile Iron Gate Valve Non-Rising Stem of DIN3352 F5


Q: I have my head off now I need to change my valves how do I do it?
It can be different from car to car, look up tutorial's on google and youtube for your specific car
Q: Someone explained on chevy that valve guide clearance can limit lift.
Picture your valve stem running down through the valve guide port. The valve guild has a two fold function. 1. to seal the oil from getting down into the valve. 2. To align the valve and keep it straight. If your valve guide is worn you will get a puff of blue smoke each time you start the engine. The valve clearance is the amount of distance the valve stem can move from side to side and that also also it to move in the lifter too which will take it over limit. If you install the incorrect valve guides, ie too small, they will not allow the valve stem to move as easily.
Q: I believe my EGR valve is bad. I am having symptoms of a bad one. If I unplugged it and took my car for a drive would the symptoms improve, if in fact it is a bad EGR valve?
dont unplug it... itll throw up a fault on the computer... ive got a volvo v70, my EGR valve is playing up... so, i just crimped the rubber hose... it runs perfectly..
Q: Im trying to make an apparatus that would allow you to breathe in from one tube and exhale through another is their a valve that does this. I originally thought that a one way valve might work however I cannot find one that works with suction.
Position two backflow preventers in oposite directions on your supply and exhaust line. connect them to a Tee fitting. the third end of the tee is where you will breathe
Q: I started out playing trombone in middle school, then switched to euphonium as my main instrument. (I still play trombone for marching and jazz band, but I'm a little better at euphonium.) That being said, should I get rotary valve trombone or the one with axial flow? I only have a student trombone right now... And I have a professional Besson euphonium.
Rotary Valve Trombone
Q: Hi there - We have an old house with galvanized steel pipes. Our main water shut off valve leaks -- the leak is from the packing nut. A plumber came out yesterday and tightened it, and it now barely leaks at all, maybe one drip every 24-48 hours (which it probably has been doing for the 6 years we have lived here, we just didn't know when we bought the place). Rather than replacing the whole valve (which, apparently, has a high liklihood of breaking the pipes in the foundation, requiring jackhammering and whatnot), we are thinking of installing a new shut off valve higher up on the pipe, where I guess it's less likely to break. If we go for the second valve, is there a way to close up that old valve (hydraulic cement, tape, solder, etc.), so it doesn't leak at all? The tiny leak is coming from the stem of the handle - can we remove the handle and cap it off or something? (And thanks to those of you who answered my husband's question about the pipes yesterday!)
There is a very simple fix to your problem. Get some teflon tape, turn off the valve, back off the packing nut all the way, twirl the tape into a thread (about 4 to 5), wrap it around the stem, reinstall the nut and snug it up. Done! While there is special graphite packing for this purpose, it is usually hard to find and works no better than the tape. You can apply a small amount of vasaline to the stem before you put on the tape to make the valve operate more easily. Only tighten the nut enough to keep it from dripping or it may become hard to open and close. You can easily add a second valve by removing the pipe above the old one and installing a piece of copper with a valve inline. Some will say you need to worry about electrolysis if you screw an adapter into the existing galvanized but I am sure you will replace the old pipe before that is an issue 20 years from now. Good Luck!
Q: It has been known that although tissue valves have lower rates of thrombotic episodescompared with mechanical valves, they are difficult to procure, and their longevity has not yet been proven. Is this true as of 2007? Thanks for answering.
It is not true that tissue valves are difficult to procure--they are widely available from several manufacturers worldwide. Traditional wisdom has long held that tissue valves are for the elderly, but with the use of third generation tissue valves, which are treated to prevent calcification, in the hands of a top surgeon in a high-volume center, the choice is not so cut-and-dried anymore. Many top surgeons believe the newer tissue (porcine or bovine pericardial) valves will last twenty-five years or more (although, admittedly, they have not been studied long enough to prove this). Many top surgeons recommend the tissue valves in all but the mitral position for their patients in their 40's or even younger, believing that the risks of life-long anticoagulation therapy (which is required if one has a mechanical valve) can be greater than the risks involved in a second open heart surgery for valve replacement for some patients. What it comes down to is that valve choice is a highly individual matter--what may be the right choice for one patient of any given age may not be the right choice for another person of the same age. The following links are invaluable for making this very important decision. Do remember, whatever valve is chosen, the surgery will prolong life for the needy recipient. Whatever the choice, the patient should make it and never look back!
Q: I have an 07 mazda 3, I-4 with 16 Valve. Anyone know what 16 valve means?
There are several things that could be wrong with the valve. It could be bent or the valve head broken off. It is no big deal to pull off the valve cover and take a look. The problem should be obvious. It is possible that if the valve head broke off or if the valve is stuck open because a broken spring or other reason, that the piston have be damaged or perforated by the valve. This will require a major overhaul.
Q: i have a leaky tp valve on my hot water boiler. The valve is rated at 30 psi and 155,000 btu. I can't find one with that btu rating. will a higher rating work?
You can absolutely use one with a higher btu rating., but not with a higher pressure rating. Just be aware that this valve has a much lower blowoff point than a typical hot water heater tp valve, so be very sure of the PRESSURE rating on the new valve. (should be 30 psi, just like the old one) You may want to check to be sure that your expansion tank isn't water logged, and that your boiler pressure isn't too high.(shouldn't be much more than 15psi or so, unless you have a multi story house). Expansion tank or water feeder pressure regulating valve may be having issues,....sometimes there's a reason why the tp valves leak. Hope this helps
Q: I have pressure steady at 13psi --- water temp is normal range but the external emergency run valve has been dripping since i turned the boiler on this year? Expansion take was empty, so I forced water through and then drained it and reopened the valve.....I am stuck and getting concerned. Anyone have a suggestion?Would really apprecite it?Additional info:Boiler is a Gas Powered unit by MASTER from the 80's.....
The TP valve will naturally wear out over time, if it has never popped open the washer inside of it has hardened, when you opened it it didn't seat properly when it closed back up, causing the drip. This is not an unusual or dangerous condition, the TP valve will usually wear out before the boiler does, it can be quickly and easily replaced. The valve will still function with a leak, but this reduces the efficiency of the boiler. DO NOT, under any conditions, DO NOT plug the leak by plugging the opening on the valve, this creates the potential for a very dangerous condition, let it drip until it can be replaced.

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