DCI Gate Valve for Drinking Water System
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1000 set
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 set/month
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1. Structure of Gate Valve Description：
1. Selected materials, in line with domestic and international standards, high overall quality of the material.
2. In line with the requirements of domestic and foreign advanced standards, reliable sealing, excellent performance, attractive appearance.
3. Sealing pair advanced and reasonable, gate and seat sealing surface with different hardness Stellite (Stellite) cobalt-based alloy cladding made, reliable sealing, high hardness, wear resistance, high temperature, corrosion good anti-abrasion performance, long life.
4. Stem quenched and nitride surface treatment, has good corrosion resistance, scratch resistance and abrasion resistance.
5. The use of flexible wedge gate structure, medium and large caliber set thrust bearings, friction force is small, and with a striking manually open and close with ease.
2. Main Features of the Gate Valve:
1)Full port design
2)OS&Y Outside screw and yoke .
3)BB. Bolted Bonnet .
4)Flexible wedge, Fully guided
5)Choice of solid or split wedge .
6)Renewable seat rings
7)Forged T-head stem
8)Rising stem and non-rising handwheel
Working medium: water, non-corrosive liquid, saturated vapor (≤ 0.6MPa)
Operating temperature: -20 °C ≤ t ≤ 135 °C
Stem: non-rising stem
Body material:Brass/Stainless Steel
Connection:flanged
3. Images of the Gate Valve:
4. Specification of the Gate Valve:
1) Product information: the gate valves supplied are mainly used for adjusting water, steam, oil, gas, and natural gas in chemical industries
2) Standards: AWWA, DIN3352 F4/F5, BS5163, BS5150
3) Connection type: flanged type, push-on type, mechanical joint type, plain ends type
4) Material:
a) Body : Ductile Iron GGG500-7
b) Wedge : D/I , core fully vulcanized with NBR or EPDM rubber
c) Wedge Nut : Brass
d) Stem : Stainless steel , BS970 431S29 or DIN17440x20Cr13
e) Gasket : NBR
f) Bonnet : GGG500-7
g) O ring : NBR
h) Washer : Carbon steel or Stainless steel .
5.Connection Ends:
1)Socket Welded Dimension:ANSI B16.11,JB/T1751
2)Screw Ends Dimension:ANSI B1.20,JB/T7306
3)Butt Welded:ANSI B16.25
4)Flanged Ends:ANSI B16.5,JB79
5.FAQ
1. Can I get free samples?
A: Yes,we can provide you the free sample, but you need to bear their own delivery costs.
2. Can I request to change the form of packaging and transportation?
A:Yes, We can change the form of the packaging and transportation according to your request, but you have to bear their own costs incurred during this period and the spreads.
3. Can I request to advance the shipment?
A: It should be depends on whether there is sufficient inventory in our warehouse.
4. Can I have my own Logo on the product?
A: Yes, you can send us your drawing and we can make your logo, but you have to bear
their own the cost.
5. Can you produce the products according to my own drawings?
A:Yes,we can produce the products according to your drawings that will be most satisfy you.
- Q:Its a 1981 Monte Carlo SS with a GM 350 crate motor. There is oil all over the heads valve covers. It isn't my car, but I was thinking of buying it..Thank you.
- If my reasoning is correct.. the answer is all to obvious.. the oil spot saturation is caused by none other than Loki, god of mischief and mayhem. If you could kindly point me in the direction of my half-brother I would be more than happy to hit him with my big dumb hammer. -THOR
- Q:I opened the OPD valve on the BBQ propane tank and propane spray out, I have heard that propane should come out only when it is hooked. Is there something wrong with the propane tank?
- Even if you open the hand valve, there is a pin that will slide into place and close the opening to not let propane come out when the tank is not hooked up to anything....this is a safety feature, if your tank is spewing gas without being hooked up, it will still function....it's just a little less safe. I would say tighten the hand valve after each use to be sure there wont be any accidents later. best case scenario, replace the tank.
- Q:My AC leaks and mechanic says it is shrader valve. Is it expensive?
- A Schrader valve is a simple push valve used to keep pressure inside a container or system, while making it easy to add more pressure when required. The valve stems on your car's tires are Schrader valves. The PARTS to replace a valve are fairly cheap, but labor and materials to repair an AC system may run the bill up.
- Q:I had to replace the seat washers/stems etc in order for the constant drips from the kitchen faucet to stop. It did; but when i went under the sink to turn the water valves back on, the hot water valve felt as something inside it went smooth??? i can turn the hot water valve left and right but nothing is happening. No hot water at all from the kitchen faucet..Also there's low water pressure from the cold water that only came about when I tried to turn the hot water back on from the valve underneath the sink
- pull off the handle and try and turn it with channel locks or pliers, and remove the aerator screen and clean it. its very common for them to get plugged up after you turn off the shutoff valves and reopen.
- Q:okay i have a 1990 plymouth laser. it runs very and the compression is good but it smokes. im thinking valve seals? Also i need to know the tool to remove the seals. Thanx
- spring compressor is only special tool you need, can borrow one at autozone for free (you pay a deposit but get it back) but one question, does it smoke when you start it up then quit after a while? that is valve seals. If it smokes after warm up and when you accellerate its probably the wiper rings in the engine.
- Q:Ok so I have a Honda Civic 97 lx and what happened was that when I did an oil change the next day the car started over heating, the car only had pure water and no coolant, the over heating part happened during noon when I was driving on the freeway the next day and not the night I made the oil change... After that I decided to put 50/50 coolant but the car still over heats, a friend told me that I probably needed to do a coolant system bleed, I try to do it but I couldn't find the bleeding valve or bleed screw... can anyone pls tell me where that valve or screw is located, I discovered a sort of valve that is covered by a black rubber cap , its next to the engine I don't know if that's what I'm looking for.....
- coolant system bleeding valve
- Q:I have several stations in my automatic lawn sprinkler system. Each station has a valve that contains: 1. Manual Shutoff, 2. Flow Control Knob, 3. Solonid, 4. Anti-Siphon valve. Any way my question is this, Why does water continue to flow even when the manual shutoff is turned off and the flow control is also turned off?
- the guy above me got to it before i did. sounds like either a diaprham has just gone out, or the solenoid plunger is stuck, or there is a rock or something inside the valve, not closing it all the way. like trying to close a door with your foot in it. it will not close all the way. A word of advice would be to go ahead and replace the anti-siphon valves with regular inline valves. anti-siphon valves are pretty much junk any type. As far as diagnosing the problem now, 1. check your timer's programming and make sure that its not sending out power to this zone all of the time. ( this would make the timer bad). 2. carefully open the valve up ( with the water turned off of course), and inspect the diaprham. if it has any tears or ripps in it, get a new diaphram, if not, then flush the lines out with the valve open to see if any debris is in the line( rocks pipe pieces, etc.) and clean it out. 3. take out the solenoid and make sure the plunger in it is not sticking. ( if so replace the solenoid). 4. if all else fails just simply cut out and replace the entire valve and plumb in a new one properly. personally i would use either Hunter PGV valves, Rainbird DVF 100 valves, or Irritrol 205 series valves. all are inline models. antisiphon valves tend to fail. i work on sprinkler systems full time for 95 $ per hour of labor for our company. hope this can help you out John A
- Q:My pressure reducing valve has gone bad. This looks like a pretty simple change. My question is do i loosen the union nut first (after draining water line), then loosen the whole valve??? Then reverse to install??? Any info would be great....
- some reducing valves are adjustable. if this one has a locknut witha screw on good thats probable the explanation for loss of psi. via turning the screw in you advance the psi. if it has no screw examine the score on it. you like 60-a hundred psi variety. if nonetheless no answer do away with the valve and see if sturdy rigidity comes out of the meter. its a fashion of removal and a splash attempt. it particularly is the meter. you may troubleshoot its one or the different.
- Q:It is burning oil, so that means oil is getting into the combustion chambers....but im not exactly sure which piece has gone bad? or for that matter what the valve guides are in the first place. Could the lifters have gone bad too? Can someone tell me what piece is most likely the cause for the oil leak into the chambers and then a price of how much it would cost to have it fixed. When i start the car it blows a puff and then settles down and then when im at a stop light and push the accelerator it blows a puff and then more or less settles down...sometimes it keeps going for a while. My mechanic put an additive in the oil called stop the smoke or something, and i know that that causes the seals to expand...and it has helped. So. I need someone to give me an overall diagnosis and price range. My mechanic is reluctant to have me do the work, im guessing cause its expensive...but i would rather pay 1000 dollars then buy a new car.
- yes we would love to help, except you gave us zero information, in order to even begin to guess whats going on, you need to explain a whole bunch of information if you want any help, like what year make model of car, engine mileage on engine, and any other things that have been done to a coar that you know of. If you have a chevy 350 it was pretty normal to get a puff of smoke out if it when it was cold, this was from worn valve stem seals, and sometimes the design of the seal was a problem, like the umbrella seal for late 80s early 90s, even new some got a few drips of oil and blow a puff of smoke, you say its smoking out the tail pipe, ok when only when cold? or all the time , or under acceleration? when, that is the first clue we need to know ok?
- Q:I have a 1989 Jeep Cherokee with 218,700 miles on it and my engine has thick oily gunk on it, possibly from a leaky valve cover gasket, should I change the gasket? I have been told that this is normal and not to worry about, but from the amount of this gunk, I find it hard to believe this is normal. The top of the valve cover has a light covering of gunk, but on the sides and towards the bottom of the engine. it gets very thick and at some places you can't even make out whats suppose there. Does a leaky valve cover gasket mean that there is another problem going on?Can leaving the oily gunk on the engine cause any problems?Any info would be greatly appreciated.
- Not to be mean but you can't work on what you can't see! Take the Jeep to a wand type car wash with a bag of quarters. Lift the hood and spend some time with high pressure soap and clean the entire engine and under-hood compartment. Don't bother covering anything. Leaking valve covers don't mean anything is wrong, it just makes a nasty mess. Remove valve cover/s and scrape old gasket material of the head/s and cover/s. The best valve covers in the world won't seal until the valve cover/s are completely flat. *This is an age old problem with stamped steel covers. If you want to get extra slick, chase down some aluminum cover/s. There stiffer and less apt to leak when you snug them back down. I'll let you in on a racers secret to make them seal. Buy a tube of Dow Corning or Permetex clear RTV silicone sealer. Scrape down the valve cover gasket surface till it's clean. Wipe the gasket surface down with CRC Brake Clean. Run a bead of the clear RTV on the valve cover and let it set-up for at least five minutes. Lay a Fel-Pro - Blue Stripe valve cover gasket on the valve cover. Seat it with your thumbs. Scrape-down the cylinder head where the gasket goes till it's perfectly clean. Clean the gasket seating surface on the cylinder head with C5RC Brake Clean. Lay a small bead of the RTV on the outside of the gasket which will meat the cylinder-head. Carefully set the cover on the head and gently alternately tighten them. It's OK to drive the vehicle as soon as you're done!
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DCI Gate Valve for Drinking Water System
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1000 set
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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