• CQ(CQF) Magnetic Drive Pump System 1
CQ(CQF) Magnetic Drive Pump

CQ(CQF) Magnetic Drive Pump

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Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
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Supply Capability:
200 unit/month

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CQ(CQF) Magnetic Drive Pump

Product Introduction
   CQF (CQ)magnetic drive pumps (magnetic pump for short) are new products to apply the working principle of  permanent magnetism coupling into the centrifugal pump, characterized by reasonable design, advanced process, full seal, zero leakage and corrosion resistance.Their performance can reach the advanced level of foreign like product.
   The megnetic pump adopts the static seal instead of the dynamic seal so that its flow-through parts are in a state of complete seal, thus thoroughly solving the unavoidable shortcoming of running, bubbling and dropping of the mechanical seal of other pump types. It is made of such materials as engineering plastics,corundum ceramic and stainless steel with corrosion resistance and high strengh, so it has a strong resistance to corrosion and can free the transported medium from being polluted.
    The magnetic pump is characterized by compact structure, attractive appearance, small volume, low noise, reliable operation and being easy for use and maintence. It can be widely applied in such fields as chemical engeering ,pharmarcy, petroleum, electroplating,food,developing and printing of film and photo,scientific institutions and defense industry for drawing rare acid, alkali and oil liquids,poisonous liquid and volatileliquid as well as serving as a fitting for water circulating equipment and filter, especially for drawing the leaky, inflammable and explosive liquid. It′ll be ideal for the explosion-proof motor to work with this pump.
Type Designation:
32 CQ (F)(B) -15
32 -  Inlet diameter(mm)
CQ -  magnetic drive pump
F – for plastic
B - for stainless steel
15 -  lift head(m)
Range of Application :
Widely applicable for chemical, pharmacy,petroleum,electroplanting,scientific research institutions and etc. to handle precious,toxic and volatile liquids,matched to cycle water equipment and filter to handle leaky,inflammable and explosive liquids.
Technology Parameters:
Flow:0.9-60m3/h;
Head:3-50m;
Rotary Speed:2900r/min;
Power:0.10-15kw;
Temperature Range:-20-100℃(stainless steel);
         0-60 (plastic)


Q:I Have a 1982 Suzuki DT8 Outboard motor, i rebuilt the water pup, new impeller, wear plate, all that. This is the first time iv run it in a barrel, it wont pump water now. But here is the thing, when i take the inspection cover off(the little round cover that lets you acces the shift linkage), and i run the motor, it will pump water. i noticed that wile i have that cover off all the exhaust comes out that hole and not out the bottom, is the exhaust getting sucked in the pump and stopping it from circulating water?
Suzuki Dt8 Outboard
Q:I own a Camaro 1995 V6 3.4L automatic, it was diagnosed that the water pump was leaking and I was going to take it in on Saturday 3/1/08. But this morning I drove it and it seem that the car is losing power the RPM goes all up to 4-5 thousand to make a speed change. The car seems to stall like if it gets stuck the RPM goes up and eventually the next speed kicks in. I will be taking the car in tomorrow 2/27/08 to see whats wrong but I was hoping maybe someone knows whats wrong so that I can have an idea before someone tries to take advantage of me. I do know that the car started leaking water/coolant more than before after that little drive in the morning.The car is very well kept oil change is always on time .I always make sure that the water and the oil is level. transmission fluids are clean. I do know that the EGR Valve needs to be replaced. (hope this info helps)thank you
You may have got it hot and blown a head gasket. That would take away the power as it got hotter.
Q:can't get the pulleys to line up I know I have a mid 70's 400 and the water pump is later than 1969 but I can't find a pulley that works every one is about a half inch off I bought a aftermarket set of underdrive pulley's from march performance and still the same problem the water pump is a half inch off there was no long or short water pump right they are all the same lenght right??? The only difference I know of is that pre 1968 the pumps have a 8 bolt design and after they have a 11 bolt design is that right???
Actually there was two main pumps for the older ones,, one was called a short shaft,,and one was called a long shaft,,the long shaft was the most popular,and it all depends on whether your car had power steering,,and air conditioning on it,,all the ones that used the long shaft usually had air,,and power steering on them also,,also some of them had a smog pump on them,,this was the main reason they used the long shaft,,most of the smog pumps got taken off and discarded down through the years,,but you still had to use the pump that had the long shaft,,this is the problem your having,,i own a repair shop in Tennessee,,and have been redoing some old cars in the past few years i to have run across the same problem you are having,,you can have a long shaft ordered for you ,,and it will work fine,,i had to use the long shaft on the one i was redoing hope this helps some.
Q:guys i have a mini-water pump.....i wanna pump kerosene instead of water,to make a mini stove,on my own..my doubt is ...if the water pump is used to pump kerosene,will the kerosene ignite inside the pump itself or will cause any problem..i just want the pump to pump kerosene....will it ignite inside of the pump,because the pump runs on electricity....can u clear my doubt
Is the motor of the pump built-in so that the pumped fluid flows through the motor also? If the answer to the question is yes then do not use the pump for pumping kerosene. However, if the pumped liquid does not come in contact with motor then you can use the pump for pumping kerosene. But ensure that the pump shaft seal is of mechanical type (so that kerosene does not leak from the shaft sealing area) with parts (specially any rubber parts) compatible with hydrocarbons (use viton rubber parts instead of EPDM)
Q:My car randomly decided to dump fluids the other day. Now, the engine overheats after 5 minutes of driving it and the check engine light comes on. I put more coolant in it and noticed it began to drip underneath the car. I'm hoping it's a leak but being my car is 10 years old and I've never replaced either the water pump or the head gasket I figure it's about due time unfortunately. About how much would this cost me to have done at the garage?
The waterpump should run you around !$150 or less at most garages, -- about $45 maybe- if you do it yourself! The headgasket will probably cost you around 3-5 hundred depending on how much labor charge is! As it is possible that the head is warped and may need re-surcfaced to make it flat again --- and of course cost is going to depend on how much damage was done, -determined by how hot it got before you shut it down! The head gasket etc. shouldn't run much more htan $125-150 Now if it runs ok,-- and doesn't overheat when the radiator is full of water, -- even after warming up and driving on road for a few ninutes, -- (if leak fairly small - it will take some time to get down low enough to cause heat buildup)! I'd say 5 miles on highway would prove it is not warped head!! -- Just keep eye on temp and shut down if it starts getting close to overheat--- to avoid increasing damage, - if head gasket out! In yard, you can get pretty good idea, by just filling up raidator, and leaving cap off with engine running-- after it has idled for a few minutes, (and you have topped it up a couple times to make sure it is full of water, -- if gasket leaking it will blow continueous bubbles, -- after the thermostat opens, a little water will rise and run over (expansion of water) ). -- ****However it should not contionue blowing any continueaous bubbles--- (continued large quantities of bubbles indicates compression being blown into water jacket from bad headgsket!) ...A small bubble now and then is negligeable, as a bubble or two may still be trapped from when water level was down! You will know when thermostat opens, as there will be moving water obvious through filler neck of radiator, and the upper hose will become hot going into radiator! It is also possible that you may see oil on water if headgasket leaking, as well as water in oil-- which would be sort fo fuzzy yellowish looking junk on dipstick, and oil fill cap!
Q:I am going to replace the timing belt , tesioner and idler bearing on my 2000 daewoo leganza. I noticed some of the kits have water pumps too. It is likely to break like the timing belt?
Well the logic is that since you only need to replace the timing belt every 60,000 miles, then you might as well change the water pump, should it fail in between you would end up having to do nearly the same job all over again. always change the water pump if it is driven by the timing belt. That is purely a rule of the trade.
Q:Domestic pump does not use water, or turn, I do not know why?
Your home should be the pipeline booster pump, a pressure switch outlet of the pump, if no water will switch off, open the water tap water pump will work ~ ~ should be the pressure spring on this switch is broken, with 4 years of spring rust, not the original so good toughness. Another reason is that when the water pressure is not enough, the pump will work, but this can be ruled out.
Q:someone told me my water pump may be going out and it sounds like their is a loose barron inside of it, so how much is it and and if i was to have someone else to fix it how much will it cost me
This should be a V6 engine correct. if looking at front of engine,toward the belt , the water pump is located behind pulley appox. 5 inches on the side toward radiator. highest pulley on right side of engine. Replacement can be performed easily without many special tools.. First loosens each of the pulley bolts on pump. Then release tension on belt and route away from pulley. Remove remaining pulley bolts and pulley , Water pump has 5 bolts holding it to cover assembly, Mark-index the way pump installs and remove. Clean all gasket material. Install new pump and gasket, refill system and to open air blled on cooler pipe near water pump to allow air to escape.
Q:Hey I need to pump water from a river and use be able to use it through a hose and also make the hose have pressure. I was thinking pump the water into a barrel and into a hose or something from there? Anyone know anything about if this would work? What would I need? thanks
buy a submersible water pump. they are the best and longest runing with high pressure. also they are portable and u can take out any time. they are applicable in sea , rivers, very deep pumping etc. but remember to wrap it with a light and silky cloth to prevent the sand going in to it before use in sea and rivers. u dont need a barrel or tank. As they re not heating,they can work continuously even for a years.u can operate from a distance, much pressure than any centrigugal pump. hope it heps. good luck.........
Q:Is it accurate to say that it should begin at 2, not at 0?
0 degrees water turns into a mixture of ice water. Do you think the water pump will work properly?

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