CDB5 Series Modular Lsolating Switch

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Q: I recently started using a component cable to hook up my slim Playstation 2 to the TV and noticed that if I clicked the pull cord to change the setting on the ceiling fan the picture on the TV would go black for a split second.This does not happen with a regular AV cable.What would cause this?: What you describe is unusual, but not unheard of. It's called EMI (ElectroMagnetic Interference), or alternatively, depending on the frequency involved, RFI (Radio Frequency Interference). First, if your ceiling fan had a short circuit, it would blow the fuse or circuit breaker (if not, you do have real trouble), but, regardless, it would not operate. So your fan does NOT have a short circuit, and you are not about to burn down your house - relax. See here for all the interesting details about the sorts of things, man-made and natural, that can cause weird things to happen with electricity:

Q: I'm doing some wiring and I do not quite understand the difference between AC12v and DC12v. I need an item to run on DC12v, Can I simply clip the wires on my object that needs DC12v and connect the appropriate ends to the appropriate battery terminals?Please do not answer (12v) ^^ Thanks!: AC 12 v probably does not exist. ac is household power source. DC 12v is car battery output, you can take power for a limited period from your car battery. depending on the amperage needed (drain on power) and condition of battery you can expect an hour for a colour t.v. to 12hrs for a radio or medium torch. at this point you will need to recharge, it is important not to completely flatten the battery, unlike ni-cads this is harmful to car batteries, you will get better results from a proper leisure battery, as used in caravans/motor homes

Q: I was plugging in my USB TV adapter with cable tv and it shorted out instantly. Visible sparks. It did not damage any components in fact the tv adapter still works, however it did blow a fuse after a long enough connection. Is there anything in particular that I should look for that would cause this problem?: Theres too much power going into the fuse. Try plugging it in to a different fuse to see if it blows that one also.

Q: I hope u can help me on this one ! :)I hocked up my pc to 230 volt while power supply set on 115 !! It made a loud bang when i turned it on and flashing a lot !Maybe it was a fuse (i hope so) If it was a fuse where is that fuse ?Or Did my pc just burned of ? what should i do ?: I'd take it to a repair shop to have it diagnosedmost likely the damage is limited to the power supply (which will definitely need to be replaced), but the possibility remains that the motherboard and other components sustained damage also. And, no, there is no fuse to replace.

Q: I have a 14ft V-bottom Lund fishing boat. Use it for fishing and whatnot. It is a pretty basic boat, no previous wiring. Here is the setup I am thinking of doing.Batteries will be up front under one of my seats. I am going to parallel two 12Vs together, and then run 4 awg wire to the back of the boat. The positive side will have a 20amp fuse. I am going to run these into two ground bars, one for the positive side and one for the negative side. All my components i wanna run will then hook up to these ground bars as well. I have a trolling motor, navigation lights, and going to put a CD player in it as well. And maybe a cigarette lighter. Do i need to be worried about anything or will this work fine? Should have more fuses or run a fuse panel instead of the ground bars? Any help would be great. The wiring is expensive, and i dont want to ruin it somehow. Thanks.: Slicing off the insulation is a bad idea as it will likely cause corrosion problems later on. The best and easiest way I have found is to go to an auto parts store or Walmart or somewhere like that and get some 'Scotch Lock' connectors that you insert the wire from your trailer connector and simply squeeze onto the existing wire on your vehicle. It pierces the wire of your vehicle but leaves only a small nick in the wire and does not damage it. You can hook up the wiring very quickly and easily this way and if you ever remove the wiring it is easy to simply tape up the small nick in the wire so as not to cause corrosion at a later time. Good luck.

Q: I have a 2000 Ranger I turned it off and it would not start again I have power to head and dome lights, replaced the 50 blade fuse position number 5 in the power management box and it worked for 1 to 2 sec then burnt out again. is it the starter relay, the ignition switch, the starter or something else. anyone have this problem? how did you fix it? any help would be greatly appreciated: a three or a 5 amp fuse would be positive, as long as your heater works once you slot the plug there is not any would desire to purchase a clean one. If the heater is going defective it particularly is going to easily blow the fuse, yet there is not any reason it is going to.

Q: I am unable to locate the fuse that feeds the components mounted on the rear hatch (including the wiper, door lock, and keyless entry receiver). The service manual has no designated fuse. I would appreciate any help in solving this issue. Thanks.: in side of fuse cover should show full lay out of same look on inside of cover plate

Q: Every morning when I get up, the battery is low. The battery is tested, good. Alternator is tested, and good. Something is shorting causing battery to slowly drain, and I'm about to start pulling fuses over night to get it narrowed down to single circuit if possible.: You test at the fuses with a multie meter or cheap test light, just remove each fuse and test across,one at a time,the one that is drawing small amount of power will show up, you dont disconnect anything before testing, and remember all doors should be closed before testing and ingnition key off. i had a short on one car i owned and it was the cygarette lighter,i just cut that wire at that fuse,as i never ever used it,and i never ever tryed to findout the cause. battery was fine from then on.

Q: I hooked up a tachometer on my bike and I accedentaly grounded a live wire and nothing would turn on. (headlight, guages, ignition and the bike is basically dead. I found a fuse under a component that is wired directly from the battery that was blown. I replaced it and it turned on my fuse box (Thats what my tach is wired to) is there another fuse I don't know about?: I'm thining you still have a bare wire grounding out somewhere, hard to find to :(

Q: I have a 1992 ford f150 and it keeps blowing the fuse that controls the interior lights, the radio, the gauge lights, and the speedometer. Now don't say the speedometer hooks in with a cable because it doesn't. It's a clip of wires that plug into it. Anyway I have taken apart the entire dashboard and tested for grounds and everything is getting ground and I even found where it grounds on the body. Sometimes the fuse pops as soon as u put it in and sometimes it takes ten minutes. I looked at all the wires and nothing seems to be broken or chafed or crossed. It will pop even when the radio and gauge cluster is unplugged and I have wiring diagrams and the wires run through the light switch and even of that's unplugged the fuse pops. I am getting fed up with this thing. Been tryin to figure it out for an entire day and got nowhere. Help is very much appreciated: My first thought would be that you don't have a high enough rated fuse plugged in. I know they're color-coded AND stamped with the amp ratingbut are you sure it's the right one? Have you gone up a size to see if that helps? If you have a short, going from a 10- to 15-amp fuse, for instance, won't really run the risk of damage—it'll still blow. If you're confident about the rating or going up a notch doesn't help, you might have to disconnect everything on that circuit and plug the components in one-at-a-time until you find what blows the fuse. Once you have a suspect, pop in a new fuse and plug in just that one thing. If it blows again with nothing else on, you know where your problem is. Good luck!

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