Brake Pads for for Toyota Hiace (04465-35050)

Brake Pads for for Toyota Hiace (04465-35050)

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Basic Info.

Model NO.:WVA29125

Certification:TS16949

Type:Brake Pads

Material:Semi-Metal

Position:Rear

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Packing:Box, Carton, Pallet

Standard:TS16949, ISO

Origin:Qingdao

HS Code:87083010

Production Capacity:10000sets/ Per Month

Product Description

Fh12 Fh16 FM9 FM12 Fl6 Brake Pads WVA29125 for Volvo
1). Material: Semimetal, ceramics, asbestos free
2). Delivery time: 15-25 days
3). Stable coefficient friction
4). Less noise, no dust
5). Pass ISO and TS16949 certificate
6). Small wear rate and dual wear
7). Good performance of heat
8). MOQ: 100 sets
9). Packing: Box+carton+pallet

Brake Pads for for Toyota Hiace (04465-35050)

Q: to do with motor bike pre-learner course the word starts with s-----e 5 letters in between: What kind of car is it? If it's a chev venture or Montana. It's a whole differnt way to fix it. E-mail me if you want

Q: Motorcycles: The 03 levers will not work on an 09. The piovt pins are different diameter and if the 09 has a clutch safety switch, the 03 clutch lever doesn't have the actuating tab. The pins were changed in 04 on the new rubber-mount engine/chassis and I can't remember what year they started using the clutch safety switch. You will need to get levers made to fit an 09.

Q: I‘m only 5 with short legs. I also have a fused left wrist so it doesn‘t bend. I‘ve always wanted to learn to ride a motorcycle. My family either has dirt bikes or Harley‘s but I have an old bicycle with the brakes on the pedals. Should I just not even think about it at this point with all my injuriesgt;: I've been riding motorcycles since 1998. Lately I've been looking into motorcycles with sidecars. I saw one at a motorcycle convention in Houston called a Ural. It's relatively cheap, especially for one with a sidecar (from $9,000-$11,000). Because it's a 3-wheeler, it's a lot easier to ride when it comes to getting over the fear of not having your feet on the ground (it doesn't fall over at a complete stop), and you'll definitely not need to put down your feet and damage your knees. I did find, though, that it's a lot different of a ride than a regular 2-wheel motorcycle (I felt like I was learning how to ride all over again). The shifting is the same (except with a reverse lever catch, which works independently from the regular shifter, so you'll still learn how to shift). The problem is in the physics of riding with a big hunk of metal dragging on your right side. You're also not leaning into turns, and the right turns will make you really nervous (the sidecar starts picking up off the ground). It probably rides more like an atv than a motorcycle. Also, there's a Ukranian company called Dnepr which makes the same kind of motorcycles, but haven't had as much Quality Control as the Urals have had. They're also about 1/2 the price (I've gotten $5500 quotes for a fully assembled and shipped unit). Problem is, as a beginner, you're probably less prone to want to WORK on the motorcycle, so I'd suggest the Ural. The motorcycle/sidecar unit will help you keep from stretching out your knees and blowing them out. They turn heads, too! Otherwise, try a light cruiser, like a Honda Shadow. They sit lower (so you can put your feet down comfortably). Stay away from sport bikes, not only because they sit higher, but also because some of your body weight will lie directly on your wrists. Hope that helped!

Q: ive been told that u can stop instantly by holing the clutch and brakes w/o downshifting, so when u just drive and slow down without stopping why do ppl still downshift? also if u stop for emergencies u hol the clutch and brakes, they say if u dont the engine will stall, what exactly does that mean?: Yes, if you engage the clutch you can (without shifting down through the gears) ride your brakes and bring the bike to a stop, then shift down to first and take off. However, downshifting (shifting down, releasing the clutch) is a useful tool also called Engine Braking, it's a good way to slow the bike in addition to brakes. It makes the brakes last longer by using the slowing power of the engine that would normally be going to waste, and so long as you rev-match the engine it won't cause any harm. If you JUST slam on the brakes (but do not engage the clutch) then when you come to a stop the bike will sputter and die, however if you pull in both the clutch and the brakes the engine will not stall.

Q: My motorcycle (a 1998 Kawasaki Ninja 250R EX250-F is running rich after it was laid down at a low speed (tire tucked under heavy braking on gravel, less than 3 mph.) The Kill switch was hit relatively quickly and the bike was picked up within 5 minutes and started. Afterward I lost interest in riding and left it for a few hours. Then I took it out for a ride (about 15 miles) and the entire time (particularly at lights) I smelled gas from the exhaust.The choke appears working properly (the linked slide is actuating within what appears to be its full range) and the bike is idling slightly high (just under 2k rpm.)There are no other problems of note. It took about a minute and a half to start at partial throttle to start (probably flooded the carbs.)I am not an expert by any means and was unable to find the answer online. There have been no idle or rich condition problems prior to the bike being laid on its right side.: There should be some screws on the carb that are used to adjust the amount of fuel that's allowed into the carb through the fuel needles. I don't know the layout of your carb specifically so I cant tell you which screw exactly (usually the larger screw on the upper side of the carb, always a flathead type)but either way their should be two adjustment screws and they both serve essentially the same function. Start the bike and let it warm up and do some adjustment, the tighter the screw, the less fuel that can enter the carb. Adjust untill it's running stoich again. You also might want to try talking the screws (also called needles) out of the carb and check for damage that may have occurred in the fall. Make sure all o rings in the assembly are intact. Hopefully this helps, feel lucky it's not running lean which can lead to detonation and the end of your motor.

Q: When you brake on a motorcycle, do you need to shift down simultaneously while coming to a stop?: It's not essential but it's safe practice to be in the correct gear when you stop; in an emergency situation you should be able to instantly move off without being caught desperately kicking the pedal trying to find 1st.

Q: is it the same principle as a scooter with a semi-automatic transmission. In other words is it shifted electronically or manually as you would with a traditional clutch ?: James is right on with the description of the transmission. Two speed, left foot shift, shift as you wish, no clutch. If I remember correctly, the right lever was the front brake - as normal. The left lever (normally the clutch) was the parking brake, locking the front wheel. It was purposely set up to need two hands to avoid accidentally setting the brake.

Q: only when riding slow,the rear brakes squeak along with the rotation speed of the tire.there is plenty of pad left.how can i stop it and what is causing it? the squeak goes away when i apply the brakes.: My question is, has it always done this? Or just started? If it has come on gradually over a period of time, yes it could be crud on the pads. If so, one thing you can do is remove the pads, lay a piece or sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the pads until the finish looks clean or new. If it still does it, you might take the pads off and with a file, chamfer the edges, especially the leading edge of the pad (the side pointing to the rear of the bike). Sometimes this will help reduce the pad vibration.

Q: Disc brake and drum brake principle: Are the use of friction to produce resistance to brake. The best example of a brakes is the front brake system of the motorcycle, which has a fixed brake pad and a brake pad (connected to the brake); the car brake is made of a brake drum and an arc brake mounted on it Produce friction

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