• API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 500 mm System 1
  • API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 500 mm System 2
  • API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 500 mm System 3
API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 500 mm

API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 500 mm

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve 150 Class

The features of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve

Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.

Body and Bonnet Connection of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:

The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.

Body-To-Bonnet Joint of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:                                                                                                         

Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.

Seat of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:

For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check="" valves="" and="" welded="" on="" seat="" can="" be="" also="" optional="" if="" being="" requested="" by="" the="" customer.welded="" is="" used="" for="" nps="">12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.

Parameter of Cast Steel Check Valve:

Standard Criteria

 ASME/ANSI/API customize 

Pressure Rating

 150 Class  300   Class  600 Class  900 Class  1500   Class  2500 Class customize 

Valve Size

 50 mm  65   mm  80 mm  100 mm  125 mm  150   mm  200 mm  250 mm 300 mm  350   mm  400 mm  450 mm  500 mm  600   mm  650 mm  700 mm 750 mm

 2 inch  2.5   inch  3 inch  4 inch  5 inch  6   inch  8 inch  10 inch  12 inch 14   inch  16 inch  18 inch  20 inch  24   inch  26 inch  28 inch  30   inch customize 

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Butt Welding  Flange   RF  Flange RTJ customize 

1-Body Material

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M customize 

2-Seat ring

 A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  A105+13Cr  Tool   Steel+A105 customize 

3-Disc

 Tool Steel+A216 WCB  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8  A216   WCB+13Cr customize 

4-Arm

 A351-CF8  A216   WCB  A351-CF8M customize 

5-Nut

 A194   8M  A194-8  A194 2H customize 

6-Arm pin

 A182-F6a  A182-F316  A182-F304 customize   

7-Yoke

 A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  A216   WCB customize 

8-Bonnet nut

 A194   8M  A194-8  A194 2H customize 

9-Bonnet bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B8M  A193-B7 customize   

10-Bolt

 A193-B7  A193-B8  A193-B8M customize   

11-Gasket

 graphite+304  graphite+316 customize   

12-Bonnet

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8 customize 

13-Eye bolt

 A181 customize 

Design Standard

 API 6D  BS   1868 customize 

Connection Standard

 API 605  ASME B   16.25-2007  ASME B 16.47A  ASME B 16.47B  ASME   B 16.5  MSS SP-44 customize 

Test Standard

 API 598  API   6D customize 

Face to Face

 ASME B 16.10 customize   

Pressure-temperature ratings

 ASME B   16.34-2004 customize 

Wall thickness dimension

 API 600  BS 1868

 

FAQ of Cast Steel Check Valve:

Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?

The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.

Q2:Which certification do your products pass?

  Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001ISO 14001API 6AAPI 6DTS CEAPI607/6FA/BS6755.


Q: when there is fire in the building, the solenoid valve is activated but what happen inside the cylinder actally?
If the pressure in any one zone is different than the other zones it could be one of two reasons; either the pressure is high (usually due to one or more sprinkler heads not poping up), or its low (usually due to a leak in the pipes). Something that could cause low pressure in all the zones are an obstruction in the water line above the valves (unlikely), or a hole in the line above the valve (the water would be filling the valve box and causing damage to the lawn wherever it is located), or leaks in all the lines (again would be easy to identify from the excess water in the ground at the source of the leak). Lastly the valve itself could potentially be faulty. The solenoid inside the valve holds the valve open when electricity is applied across it. If the wires to it are damaged; if the solenoid is bad; or if the valve has any rust or dirt inside that could cause a lower than normal amount of water flow.
Q: Serious answers only please. I have a 1995 Ford F-250 XL 5.8L 351 c.i. engine. My check engine light comes on periodically when I drive. When I bought the truck a year ago the gas mileage wasn't too bad, about 9-10 mpg. I've only put about 3,000 miles on it this past year, and now the needle drops just driving it across town. I work at a Chevy dealership, and I've worked at another Chevy dealer as well as a Ford. I've always done my own work on my cars and am currently restoring a 1967 Mustang, so I have decent knowledge under the hood. I scanned the truck and it has a stored code for EGR valve voltage too high (stuck open). How bad could this be hurting my gas mileage? It's $160 for the valve and sensor even after my discount, and being a college student that's a lotta $ to pay. I'm selling the truck and need it running perfect when I do. Please, serious answers only, and help is greatly appreciated!
Get out your jumper leads and backprobe the egr solinoid. ok. 1st thing......attempt to kill the motor at idle using the egr solinoid. apply ground to the proper wire(not red) and see if the egr valve operates, killing the motor idle. if it does operate, but doesn't kill the motor......you have some cleaning to do. if it operates, and kills the motor.......the valve and solinoid are ok. (the solinoid should also vent the egr valve vacuum when de-energized) Now.....for the tricky part. AFTERMARKET EVP SENSORS SELDOM READ CORRECTLY. 1. Turn the key on and check the voltages at the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Position (EVP) Sensor. The Brown/White (BN/W) should be 5v, the Grey/Red (GY/R) is ground and must read 0.1v or less at all times. The Brown/Green (BN/GN) is the signal and MUST read 0.40v to 0.45v. If it does not, the vertical position of the sensor must be changed BY ANY MEANS NESSESARY. a NEW valve will sit higher than an old one......but sometimes not. There are things you can try to lengthen the shaft to increase the voltage reading, such as heat shrink tubing. This EVP issue is an annoying one (even for experienced mechanics), but has little effect on gas milage, unless it is TRULY stuck open. If it were stuck open.....the truck would be running very rough at idle or die.
Q: the valve stem?
In tubeless tyres the valve is fitted to the wheel rim itself, so you can remove the valve and replace it with a new one in order to re-use the wheel. Tyres or wheels that have an inner tube fitted don't have the valve on the wheel itself it is connected to the inner tube, and can be easily removed you just put a new inner tube in. If you just want to take the valve out and use that, you would be better off buying a new one because they are not expensive. If you have no choice then you will only be able to re-use a valve from a tubeless tyre as the other type has the vale permanently attached the inner tube. To remove the valve from a wheel rim you need to first take the tyre off (usually with the help of a machine, as they can be quite tough) and then push the valve out off the hole from the back as there is a lip and is difficult to do it from the other way then just refit the tyre.
Q: My 97 Tahoe has a leaking A/C pressure valve. I went to charge the system yesterday, and when I finished I took the hoses from the charging gauges off. The pressure side valve leaked. I pressed it down with a small screwdriver yet still couldn't get it to seat. I looks like it might have a damaged seal around the valve.Can I replace the valve? And if so, how. Or do I have to replace the entire hose assemble as they connect to the compressor?Thanks
you can replace the valve--but when you take the old one out so will all the gas. If it just leaks a little the air tight cover cap should suffice to avoid this proceedure.
Q: i have a leak on the front of that valve cover and the oil is going down to the headers,,how can i fix the problem.?how do i install da gasket do i need any special things??thanx for tha help
its okorder /
Q: Where is the Canister vent shut valve located on a 2003 honda crv
The canister vent shut valve is located in the evap canister. Rarely do we have issues with these. Usually we have issues with the 2 way valve or the bypass valve. Based on the age of the vehicle, the dealer would recommend replacement of these 2 valves as well as the canister. The reason for this is over time, when you fill the vehicle with gas, you try to top off the tank. The fuel winds up being pushed into the evap valves and the canister. This liquid gas causes the sensor to read wrong which results in this code.
Q: What are the requirements for valve automation?
Valves are commonly available for both liquid and gas. You would begin by determining operating pressure, volume, nature of fluid, and temperature of fluid. The electrical requirements are as simple as supplying power to a solenoid. Mechanically, automatic valves are sophisticated. Begin by researching the water supply valves for a domestic washing machine.
Q: Where can I get a trigger valve like a one you use on a propane tank.
Don't okorder /
Q: so, im a day away from getting a 2002 748 and im super excited, iv always wanted a ducati, and i cant wait to have one of my own. i understand that ducks have a reputation of breaking and im prepared for it. I also understand the valves need to be adjusted every 50-100 feet :P all kidding aside i know every 6k miles they need to be adjusted. i dont know however how much it costs to have the valves adjusted. im sure it varys from shop to shop but a ball park quote would be really helpful just so its not a kick in the gut when i take it in for the first time. thanks
Well first, you need to get them inspected, and they'll only adjust the valves if it's needed, even at 6k mile intervals, if your valves are still in spec or very close without lobe drag, they probably won't be changed, so check your bill and ask your tech directly if they were changed, some less reputable dealers may try to pull a fast one on you. If you actually needed ALL 16 shims changed, you're easily talking $1000 in labor, esp. on the 748/916 style heads, which have access ports on the heads instead of being able to remove the whole top of the heads like the newer DESMOQUATTRO heads, and are a PITA to work on because of it. The bad thing is that until recently (and they still need improvement) Ducati's quality control is lower than other manufacturers, meaning very inconsistent performance reliability, just from variances in manufacturing. If you get a GOOD tech to do the bike right in the first place though, not just valves but all-important TPS resetting, cam timing/belt tension, and balanced CO's in your exhaust, you will have a lot less headaches with your Duc.
Q: Does the heater control valve anything to do with the A/C ?My heater control valve needs replacing, as it leaks when I put my truck's heat on. No heat, no leak. I have to periodically re-add Prestone every once in awhile after using the heat . I've checked the valve and it only leaks when I have my heat on, if I don't use my heat, I don't lose fluid. But now I'm wondering if I use my truck's A/C, does the heater control valve have anything to do with the radiator fluid, or just the freon? Thanks in advanceCar Mechanic in training
the control valve when its turned off keeps water from circulating thru the heater core.. so the hot water doesnt counteract the coolness coming off the evaporater in the ac box under your dash that is the only place those two systems interact.. it sounds like your valve is working fine aside from the leak although i myself would replace it since by winter you may forget that it leaks and on a long drive end up overheating the truck the valve usually runs about 30$ and isn;t difficult to change its worth fixing

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