• API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 125 mm System 1
  • API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 125 mm System 2
  • API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 125 mm System 3
API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 125 mm

API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 125 mm

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve 150 Class

The features of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve

Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.

Body and Bonnet Connection of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:

The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.

Body-To-Bonnet Joint of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:                                                                                                         

Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.

Seat of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:

For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check="" valves="" and="" welded="" on="" seat="" can="" be="" also="" optional="" if="" being="" requested="" by="" the="" customer.welded="" is="" used="" for="" nps="">12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.

Parameter of Cast Steel Check Valve:

Standard Criteria

 ASME/ANSI/API customize 

Pressure Rating

 150 Class  300   Class  600 Class  900 Class  1500   Class  2500 Class customize 

Valve Size

 50 mm  65   mm  80 mm  100 mm  125 mm  150   mm  200 mm  250 mm 300 mm  350   mm  400 mm  450 mm  500 mm  600   mm  650 mm  700 mm 750 mm

 2 inch  2.5   inch  3 inch  4 inch  5 inch  6   inch  8 inch  10 inch  12 inch 14   inch  16 inch  18 inch  20 inch  24   inch  26 inch  28 inch  30   inch customize 

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Butt Welding  Flange   RF  Flange RTJ customize 

1-Body Material

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M customize 

2-Seat ring

 A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  A105+13Cr  Tool   Steel+A105 customize 

3-Disc

 Tool Steel+A216 WCB  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8  A216   WCB+13Cr customize 

4-Arm

 A351-CF8  A216   WCB  A351-CF8M customize 

5-Nut

 A194   8M  A194-8  A194 2H customize 

6-Arm pin

 A182-F6a  A182-F316  A182-F304 customize   

7-Yoke

 A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  A216   WCB customize 

8-Bonnet nut

 A194   8M  A194-8  A194 2H customize 

9-Bonnet bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B8M  A193-B7 customize   

10-Bolt

 A193-B7  A193-B8  A193-B8M customize   

11-Gasket

 graphite+304  graphite+316 customize   

12-Bonnet

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8 customize 

13-Eye bolt

 A181 customize 

Design Standard

 API 6D  BS   1868 customize 

Connection Standard

 API 605  ASME B   16.25-2007  ASME B 16.47A  ASME B 16.47B  ASME   B 16.5  MSS SP-44 customize 

Test Standard

 API 598  API   6D customize 

Face to Face

 ASME B 16.10 customize   

Pressure-temperature ratings

 ASME B   16.34-2004 customize 

Wall thickness dimension

 API 600  BS 1868

 

FAQ of Cast Steel Check Valve:

Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?

The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.

Q2:Which certification do your products pass?

  Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001ISO 14001API 6AAPI 6DTS CEAPI607/6FA/BS6755.


Q:I am having a leaky valve is that normal? the doctor said that it is normal what do i do?
Many of us have leaky valves that do not require treatment...only when it becomes more leaky will it cause problems and you would benefit from treatment. Its pretty common to have a slightly leaky valve I had one and so do my 3 sons who are 13, 16, 18.
Q:where on the motor is the valves location
The idle air control valve can be found under the throttle body. In order to get to it: 1. Disconnect negative battery cable. 2. Remove air intake from throttle body. 3. Disconnect throttle body cable. 4. Disconnect sensor connectors from IAC valve, and throttle position sensor. 5. Remove 4 bolts from throttle body using 10mm socket wrench. 6. Take throttle body, turn bottom side up, remove 4 mounting screws from IAC Once you do that you have removed the IAC. Reverse the steps to put it back on starting at number 6 and working your way back to number one How do you replace an air idle control valve? Replacing an idle control valve can be a daunting task. For your specific application, we recommend to ask in our car forum for advice. Here we will describe the basic process for replacing your idle control valve. Please note that for different cars and trucks the process will not be the same. Steps to replace your idle control valve You will want to begin by first gaining access to the idle control valve. In order to do this you will need to remove the air filter assembly, along with the air mass sensor and the air mass meter boot. Once you remove this whole assembly, you should have easy access to the throttle body. Remove the four bolts that secure the throttle body to the intake manifold. Usually on the bottom of the throttle body, on fuel injected cars, there is a idle control valve. To remove the old valve, simply unscrew or unbolt it. Bolt on the new valve, and reinstall everything. Make sure you replace your throttle body gasket at this time.
Q:I Have a 2001 Honda Accord 3.0 V6. Would a clogged EGR valve cause it to run rough and have problems starting up when it is warm? It also runs hot. I have replaced the thermostat and the cooling fan relay? What could cause all of this? PLEASE HELP!
Honda Accord Egr Valve
Q:my valve cap is leaking slowing how do i fix it what part do i need
valve cap? like on the tire? shouldn't leak...replace valve stem
Q:I have a Ford Explorer 4x4 2004 model.The check engine light soon has been on for two to three weeks, I finally got it checked and they said i need my ERG valve cleaned. They quoted it for around 50 bucks, which is fine. However, i dont get paid until a week from now. Will it be alright until then?What are the effects of a dirty/faulty ERG valve if not taken care of??There are not sputtering or anything abnormal that i can tell..Thanks.
It will be ok to drive.It recirculates exhaust gases to help reduce emissions.Typical signs of a malfunctioning egr valve are hesitation during acceleration,rough idling,and hard starting.These can also be signs of a bad evp sensor too,which is the electrical sensor that attaches to the egr valve.The egr valve is easy to clean if you wanna do it yourself and save some cash.Remove it from its mounted location,use carb cleaner to spray inside the valve to remove the carbon buildup.You should push the pintle valve in and out so you can get cleaner to the inside passages.Be careful because you don#x27;t wanna accidentally get cleaner on the diaphragm of the valve.You can also use a small wire brush or even an old toothbrush to scrape away crusty carbon buildup.Replace the gasket if it tears during removal because a torn gasket will cause a vacuum leak.You can drive the car until you get it cleaned though,without being worried that its gonna tear something up.
Q:How do you take out a valve stem?
no, the cap for the valve stem is designed to keep dirt out not hold air in ! there is a special tool that removes the valve stem, and some manufacturers have cleverly placed it on the top of the stem cap(so you would remove the cap ,turn it upside down and the metal tool will fit into the valve and unscrew the stem.), otherwise you can get one at the tire dealer or SEARS ,It's about the size of a pencil
Q:Movers messed up the valve so hose won't screw in w/o leaking
Buy a new valve at an appliance parts outlet. Make sure it's the right one. Many times they will come with instructions. Unplug the unit. Shut off the water and remove the hoses. Remove the back panel to access the valve. Remove the old broke valve and replace it with the new one. Replace the panel. Attach the hoses and turn on the water. Check for leaks. Plug in the unit and give it a test. Try all the temperature settings. Congratulations. You are now a professional..
Q:Hi, I have Orbit valve for a section of my yard. The pressure is really low when I turn it on with my remote. When I turn it on manually at the valve, the water pressure is much higher.
Its possible the valve stem is corroded with stuff not letting it actuate properly open. Turn water off and unscrew the valve then actuate it electrically while watching for a full stroke. Make sure flow control is all the way open when inspecting valves stroke. Remember where you had it set when done or readjust. Also check the solenoid for corrosion and clean linkages. I would clean and coat with petroleum jelly. My guess is valve seat is gummed up so lube the stem and work it manually till it slides open and closed easy then test with the solenoid. Good luck!
Q:Chev 350 in marine use. Made horiffic exhaust noise, especially with increasing throttle. Cam seems fine still, but the rocker on #5 exhaust was somewhat off to the side but still touching the side of the valve stem...but stem bent. What would cause this and is this the cause of the loud combustion sound (like a spark plug out of it's hole?
You have several problems here! First of all lets dispense with the marine part, -- which is mostly cooling system conversion! A bent valve -- probably reason for popping, - it is most likely bent inside from striking (being struck) by piston with some possible small piece of metal between top and valve, -- this could be a simple as a piece of broken piston ring, or maybe a screw or nut that has fallen down in intake system some time,- and just now sucked into combustion chamber! Clearance between piston and head not really large when piston all the way up! In order to repair, you need to remove the head and have valve taken out, -- which will probaly require new valve guide replacement! As for rocker arm, it may or may not be involved in actual origional problem! I would have head all checked over to make sure that it is ok,-- as foreign objects inside engine can ruin head also! Now if this is a high time engine, It might be a good idea to pull other head off also, as you have to remove stuff on top and intake manifold to get other one off again, -- (if it has problems later)! The loud noises may have been piston still banging on valve, -or exhaust gasses popping out when ingniton occoured because of valve not seating, -- you could also have bent intake valve, just not as bad, -- and gas popping back out through intake system also!
Q:i have a yamaha trumpet. i got it brand new and it is 3 years old. I recently did drop it and i have a tiny dent on the last turn to the bell. after that they started sticking . There are no dents on the valves or casing surrounding them. i brought them to Quinlan and fabish and showed them the sticking they replaced the valves spring padding and the such. They also did an ultrasound cleaning i think it is called . they are still sticking. Please any think that you can suggest i showed my band teacher who suggested going to Quinlan and fabish. Then my trumpet teacher who said i need to oil more after the cleaning please help
Check that you are not putting sideways pressure on your valves when you press them downwards. Even on a good horn this sideways pressure can cause friction between the piston and the valve casing. Avoid this by arching your fingers a little, depressing with your finger's tips, and avoid the pinkie finger ring entirely. Tying your pinkie up in that only restricts your 3rd. finger's freedom of straight downward movement. Over- lubricating the valves can be as bad as too little oil. Do the whole warm bath treatment that you would normally do to clean it, add 3 drops to each valve, work horn for a few minutes, wipe valves with very old (washed heaps of times) t-shirt: then finally 2 drops again. If this doesn't work, get a trumpet specialist teacher to take it home for this treatment.(You might not be bathing it right). Failing that, check my web site's repair section. Good Luck!

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