• 0.6/1kv low smoke  zero halogen flame retardant photovoltaic  cable System 1
  • 0.6/1kv low smoke  zero halogen flame retardant photovoltaic  cable System 2
0.6/1kv low smoke  zero halogen flame retardant photovoltaic  cable

0.6/1kv low smoke zero halogen flame retardant photovoltaic cable

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m
Supply Capability:
100000 m/month

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0.6/1kv low smoke  zero halogen flame retardant photovoltaic  cable

 

Photovoltaic Cable

 

Introduction of product

 

Our company produces Photovoltaic Cable which is used in advanced radiation cross-linking technology and used low smoke zero halogen flame retardant material produced wires. It has advantages of high temperature resistant, anti oxygen pumping, uv resistance, resistance to water vapor, antimicrobial, short cutting ability, long service life, wear-resisting, oil, anti-corrosion, high tensile resistance, etc.

 

Executive standard

 

The product is according to the standard of TüV 2PfG 1169/08.07.

 

Application

 

The product is suitable for use in extreme weather conditions, indoors and outdoors solar photovoltaic system circuit connection.

 

Operating characteristics

 

U0/U

 

U0/U  0.6/1kV

Operating temperature

 

Max. operating temperature of conductor: 120, Operating ambient temperature: -40℃~90.

 

Type name

 

Type

Name

PV1F

Low smoke zero halogen radiation XLPO insulation low smoke zero halogen radiation XLPO sheath pv cable

 

 

Specification of cable

 

Type

Nom. Cross-Section /mm2

NO.of cores

PV1-F

1.5

1

PV1-F

2.5

1

PV1-F

4

1

PV1-F

6

1

PV1-F

10

1

PV1-F

16

1

PV1-F

25

1

PV1-F

35

1

 

 1.sheath 

2.Conductor

3.Insulation

 

 

 

Structure data of cable

 

Nom. Cross-Section of conductor/mm2

Conductor structure/piece/mm

Conductor diameter/mm

Product diameter/mm

Max direct resistance

(20Ω/km

Referencen weight kg/km

1.5

30/0.25

1.58

5.08

13.7

33.4

2.5

50/0.25

2.04

5.54

8.21

46.2

4

56/0.30

2.59

6.19

5.09

65.8

6

84/0.30

3.4

7.00

3.39

92.4

10

84/0.40

4.5

8.90

1.95

157.4

16

126/0.40

5.55

10.35

1.24

225.8

25

196/0.40

6.92

11.92

0.795

329.4

35

276/0.40

8.7

13.9

0.565

445.1

 

 

Q: What is the difference between the power BV line and the power YJV cable?
According to the provisions of GB-. pipes with a diameter of 15 mm can wear 3 BV-2.5 or 2 BV-4; and so on, 20 mm pipe, 3 * 4 or 4 * 2.5; 25 mm pipe, * 6 mm or 5 * 4; 32 mm tubing, wear 3 * 10 or 5 * 6; 40 mm tubing, wear 4 * 16 or 5 * 10; 50 mm tubing, wear 4 * 25 or 5 * 16 The The combination of the above, generally can be applied to all the current distribution lines of the way. As for the 35 square millimeters above the wire, the general use of cable laying, do not use PVC pipe, you can see the environment as a result of the application or wear pipe protection.
Q: im upgrading amps from 200 to 1000 and i was wondering if the cables will restrict the current at all? right now i have a 225 watt cord set
The first consideration is how much power can your speakers handle without self destructing? My opinion is that few can productively handle more than a couple of hundred, and that would be for very brief peaks. The average listening level in a domestic situation is on the order of a few watts - 10 or less. If you really have speakers that can handle that amount of power, and you want to deliver it efficiently, then you need to keep the 2-way resistance of the wires from the amps to the speakers at less than 10% of the speaker impedance. So for 4 ohm speakers (worst case) you want the line resistance to be below 0.4 ohms. For a 50 ft (100 ft 2-way) cable run, that suggests 16 AWG minimum wire gauge for each speaker. Your existing RCA cables should be OK assuming they only carry low level signals. If your present power service and grounding are on a 15 or 20 Amp branch circuit (US) , and no other heavy appliance loads (refrigerator, washer, airconditioner) are on that branch, then it is OK for the new amps.
Q: I have digital cable through Cox. The receiver is plugged in, and the electricity is fine, but it won't turn on! Please help! I don't want to pay for repairs!
If your not getting any power to the box no little green lite or humming noise coming from the box then its dead. your just going to need to get the box replaced you should be able to just bring your box in and trade it out to avoid a service call charge.
Q: I'm only asking this on here out of interest, this is not homework. I want to know how to calculate exact distances between to poles connected at the top by a cable. The length or height of the objects are not important to me, but if you must use an example please do so. So I want to know what formulas to use, what variables in those formulas mean, and how the slope of the cable will affect the distance. For example, if two poles have a distance between them of 0, and the cable extends 100, it would not mean that the drop of the cable (called a catenary?) would be 50, (it's misleading because you would think that since the distance between the two poles is 0, the cable would drop 50 and rise 50. But this is not taking into account the slope it has to take at the bottom of the catenary. It must lose some drop (perhaps to 48 or 49) in order to bend and rise back up...I want this out of my head, it's bugging me that I can't figure it out.
So you want the length along the cable? I honestly don't know how to compute the arc length of a catenary, but I'm sure that the power company knows how to do it because they need to know how much cable it will take to string up a whole line of poles. Your example doesn't work only because you impose a physically impossible constraint (zero distance between the poles - the poles have no thickness) and then try to impose physical reality (the cable can't bend instantaneously) on the problem. In the physically unrealizable problem, yes the cable does drop 50 ft because it is infinitely bendable. You're dealing with hyperbolic sines and cosines. Good luck
Q: This is in terms of military property acocuntability.
Like so many answers: it depends. A power cable for a desk top computer is usually expendable. A power cable running from a generator to a junction box is not. or property book will tell you what it is.
Q: I have recently purchased a SAPPHIRE 100228L Radeon HD 3850 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 AGP 4X/8X HDCP Ready Video Card.
should have come with a power cable. sometimes these are hidden in a compartment inside the box. take all the inner cardboard out. It would be pretty unusual for one of these cards to ship without the cable.
Q: It isn't the standard power cable, it ALMOST looks like a power cable for a playstation, except it has round on both sides and not just one...Can I JUST buy the plug for it? I lost it when we moved and I need it to make Xmas Cards HAHA
Check okorder they may have part and express shipping Merry Christmas
Q: It's a 250GB Western Digital Caviar drive, sold with an iMac back in early 2007... I want to see if I can recover some files from it, but I have no idea where to start.
Hard Drive cable: similar to a dock, but they are just a cable. Simply plug into an open USB or FireWire port, and plug the other end into the hard drive. They have the same issue as a dock though - no protection for the hard drive itself: it just sits exposed on your desk. (I can't find a link for this one in the couple seconds I checked. Sorry) Things to remember with all those options: * Make sure your choice supports your OS: most options work with both Windows and OS X, but some are only one or the other. * Know what interface your hard drive uses. Is it ATA? SATA? IDE? Make sure you buy the product with the right plug for your HDD. * Look at reviews. Especially if you go with a dock: there are lots of cheap ones that have crappy reviews. Do a little research before you buy. Personally, I prefer the case. They work great and you can always switch the hard drive out whenever you want. I just replaced 3 of my 250GB drives with 1TB and it took me all of 5 minutes! Enjoy! PS - I use NewEgg.Com for most of my HDD needs. They have awesome prices and sweet return policies in case something doesn't work when you get it (although that's never happend to me - knock on wood).
Q: My PC shuts down by itself and even if i push the power button, it won't start again. I have to unplug the power cable and plug it again and then push the power button to start again.... it will work for 30mins-1 hour, and then it will crush again.
Either major problem (maybe power supply) or infection - Get it looked at by technician if no infections found by Malwarebytes and SUPERANTIspyware -
Q: I am using a Peavey Windsor half-stack that I've had for a little over a year now. It's 300 watts, 120 VAC (whatever that means), and 60 Hz. I lost the power-cable so I bought a new one, but I wanted to make sure there's no risk in using it. I'm pretty sure it's safe but I'd hate to overpower it if that's possible.
It means that it has 300 watts of power . Thats a lot of power. 120VAC means that you connect it to a regular wall plug. If you can connect it to the amp and the wall socket , you got yourself an amp.

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