• China 0.6/1kv low smoke  zero halogen flame retardant pv cable System 1
  • China 0.6/1kv low smoke  zero halogen flame retardant pv cable System 2
China 0.6/1kv low smoke  zero halogen flame retardant pv cable

China 0.6/1kv low smoke zero halogen flame retardant pv cable

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 m
Supply Capability:
100000 m/month

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 Photovoltaic Cable

 

Introduction of product

 

Our company produces Photovoltaic Cable which is used in advanced radiation cross-linking technology and used low smoke zero halogen flame retardant material produced wires. It has advantages of high temperature resistant, anti oxygen pumping, uv resistance, resistance to water vapor, antimicrobial, short cutting ability, long service life, wear-resisting, oil, anti-corrosion, high tensile resistance, etc.

 

Executive standard

 

The product is according to the standard of TüV 2PfG 1169/08.07.

 

Application

 

The product is suitable for use in extreme weather conditions, indoors and outdoors solar photovoltaic system circuit connection.

 

Operating characteristics

 

U0/U

 

U0/U  0.6/1kV

Operating temperature

 

Max. operating temperature of conductor: 120, Operating ambient temperature: -40℃~90.

 

Type name

 

Type

Name

PV1F

Low smoke zero halogen radiation XLPO insulation low smoke zero halogen radiation XLPO sheath pv cable

 

 

Specification of cable

 

Type

Nom. Cross-Section /mm2

NO.of cores

PV1-F

1.5

1

PV1-F

2.5

1

PV1-F

4

1

PV1-F

6

1

PV1-F

10

1

PV1-F

16

1

PV1-F

25

1

PV1-F

35

1

 

 

 

Structure data of cable

 

Nom. Cross-Section of conductor/mm2

Conductor structure/piece/mm

Conductor diameter/mm

Product diameter/mm

Max direct resistance

(20Ω/km

Referencen weight kg/km

1.5

30/0.25

1.58

5.08

13.7

33.4

2.5

50/0.25

2.04

5.54

8.21

46.2

4

56/0.30

2.59

6.19

5.09

65.8

6

84/0.30

3.4

7.00

3.39

92.4

10

84/0.40

4.5

8.90

1.95

157.4

16

126/0.40

5.55

10.35

1.24

225.8

25

196/0.40

6.92

11.92

0.795

329.4

35

276/0.40

8.7

13.9

0.565

445.1

 

Q: The computer is a Hp compaq.So I took the connector out of the computer but left it in the power socket.When I tried to reinsert the connector I hit the metal back panel of the computer and it made contact so I was wondering what is the part(s) that is likely to be broken?I want to know it so I can replace the damaged parts.Thanks in advance of your help.
The power cable should have enough rubber/plasitc to stop contact with power supply directly unless you seen a spark I would try the a different cable. Is the power supply turned on? If it did spark and is turned on try swapping the power supply. Actually I missread, it touched the case itself so now you have to start swapping all parts starting with the power supply, then motherboard if that doesnt work. I hope you have some spare parks around. you could also take out the power supply and you will see a long 24-pin connector you can short the 1 green wire with a black one to see if the power supply turns on. The connector is a cable comming from the PSU not on the motherboard. And lastly each time you try to start the computer after swapping somthing only have the essentials to have it start. No CD drive extra HDD etc.
Q: Can I do the big 3 upgrade by only doing the 2 ground cables(battery to chassis and engine block to chassis) now and doing the power to the alternator at another time? Will this give me a little performance boost until I can get enough material?
Yes, that is fine. That is what i did in my car because it was a pain to get to the alt and i had a new one on the way. My voltage was dropping to around 13 volts before i upgraded the two grounds and after it never dropped much past 13.5. It is more of a problem to upgrade power cable and not the grounds, not to upgrade grounds and not power.
Q: the power cable for my macbook is frayed and today started to spark. its currently unplugged, because of the sparking. i am trying to figure out if the power cable is covered under warrantee. the macbook is still covered under warrantee until August 2011Thanks in advance
They do NOT fray like that without careless handling, which is NOT covered on warranty.
Q: I'm installing my car audio system in the morning. I have a 650w 4 channel amp for my four interior speakers and a class D monoblock amp for my sub.I have an 8awg wiring kit. If I split that to use it on both amps, it would end up at 16awg going to the amps. Is this thick enough for my setup?
1. We can't answer without knowing more about your amplifiers. 650w 4 channel doesn't tell us anything useful, because the power rating may be a peak number that's only good for marketing, and you didn't tell us anything about the monoblock amplifier at all. Give us brand and model numbers and we might be able to help. 2. If I split that to use it on both amps, it would end up at 16awg going to the amps ....no. That's now how it works. (I'm not sure how you envision splitting the wire to make two wires that are half the size; are you cutting it down the middle with a razor?) You can use a distribution block to connect both amplifiers to the same main power wire, but you don't have to go to a smaller wire out of the d-block: you can run 8-gauge wire from the battery to the distribution block, then more 8-gauge from the d-block to each amp. 3. Even if you did cut the 8-gauge wire in half, a wire half the size of 8-gauge isn't 16-gauge. It's 11-gauge. If you put six 16-gauge wires together, you'd get a wire that's a little smaller than 8-gauge. Please edit your question with the brand and model numbers of both amplifier, along with the estimated length of the wire run (ie, how many feet of wire do you need to go between the amps and the battery?) Then we can tell you what gauge wire you need. Edit: thanks for the update. Based on the information about your amplifiers, I don't think you should run both of them from the single 8-gauge wire. I'd switch to a 4-gauge dual amp kit, or you can buy a second 8-gauge kit and run each amp with its own power wire to the battery rather than sharing a single wire.
Q: I've got a 1994 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 1.8 and I can't find any place to put the amp cable through the firewall! Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ;).
It's simple really. If you have a drill will a power cord attached to it, simply drill a hole big enough for the power wire to fit thru. Try to do it about midway down the firwall as to not hit anything in your dash. Thats where I have done it before and have had no problems whatsoever out of it.
Q: I was watching a YouTube video awhile ago and this guy was reinstalling his cables to his amp. I heard him say that he ran the RCA one on the opposite side of the car so there won't be anymore humming? I currently have my power, RCA ,and rem wires running from front to back on the driver side. Should I re run the RCA one on the passenger side? Will my system sound better?
Don't run ur power cables and rca cables together cause the rca might pick up sounds from the alternator . . which will be like a humming sound in ur speakers. .
Q: I have a desktop PC that when turned on the fans works but it won't beep or display anything on screen. But after I unplug both motherboard power connectors and plug them back in, the PC stats working normally, why is that? Oh, and I tried disconnecting only the external power cable, no luck.
Just a guess, but maybe you had a loose connection to the motherboard. Unplugging, and then plugging the cables back in, just made a solid connection.
Q: How do I get it not to do that? Its really annoying. Whenever I remove the charger cable , the screen gets really dark. It seems like an actual function and not a defect, but is their a way to toggle it on and off?
normal, although you can chage some of the settings under control panel as well as using the function key and raise/lower the brightness
Q: I'm lost i cant find a hole in my ford c-max firewall to install my power cable for amp can someone help me as i am traveling this sat to France by car .
In most vehicles there are spare holes filled with rubber plugs. Pop one out with a screwdriver and make a hole in plug a little smaller than the size of the wire for a very tight fit. If it's a smaller size power wire, it can sometimes be run through the same grommet as the vehicles main harness. Be very careful not hurt the existing wire. I have seen people get careless and screw the harness up and it's not easy or cheap to fix. When doing this I usually use a stiff wire (a small diameter yet long screwdriver can work too) and slide it through the grommet. I then use electrical tape to secure the power wire to stiff wire and pull it through. Make sure your penetration point is still leak proof after doing this. You may need to use some silicone and or electrical tape to seal it up.
Q: I have a USB powered external hard drive. The cable that came with it has to plug-ins for the PC. I know the fat one provides power so I use that one. I would like to know what the other skinny one is for.I have seen other people plug both in when using it and it worked fine for them. I am using just the fat one and it works fine for me. I would just like to know the reason for having both on a cable.
to give the end user another alternative to connect the drive to the pc if there is no usb slot available or free

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