• WQ Series Sewage Vertical Centrifugal Pumps System 1
  • WQ Series Sewage Vertical Centrifugal Pumps System 2
  • WQ Series Sewage Vertical Centrifugal Pumps System 3
WQ Series Sewage Vertical Centrifugal Pumps

WQ Series Sewage Vertical Centrifugal Pumps

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Shanghai
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Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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1. Product Introduction 

WQ series submersible sewage pump is mainly used for municipal work, industrial building, hotels, hospitals, civil air defense, mines, etc. It can be widely used in transfer waste water, rainwater and living water etc. which contains solid grains and various long fibers CNBM WQ series sewage submersible pump have many advantages, such as, hi-efficiency, circumvolution proof, blockage free, auto-coupling, hi-reliability and auto-control, etc.

 

2. Technical Performance 

1). Discharge diameter: 50~600 mm

2)  Capacity: 10~8000m³/h

3)  Head: 5~60m

4)  Power: 1.5~315kw

5)  Diameter of pass solids: 20~145mm

 

3. Operation Condition 

1). Rated Voltage: 380V(660V), Frequency: 50Hz, 3-phase AC.

2). Temperature of medium under 40ºC.

3). PH value: 4~10.

4). Volume ratio of solid in medium below 2%.

5). Density of medium should be lower than 12000kg/m³.


4. Structure Characteristic of WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump

WQ series submersible sewage pump is equipped with status indicator and protection device to ensure for pump safe and reliable operating.

1). The unique cable airproof is adopted, avoid leakage of cable.

2).  Heat protector in stator assure of operating life of the motor.

3).  The pump adopts outer recycling cooling design with motor power more than 18.5kw, which can keep the pump operating safely under the lowest water level.

4).  A floating switch is installed at the bottom of motor chamber to protect the mechanical seal in the motor side.

5).  The oil-water probe is installed at the up end of the oil chamber between pump and motor that can protect the mechanical seal in the side. If leakage occurs, the system will signalize and start protection.

6).  Adopt perfect mechanical seal, the sealing material adopt tungsten carbide, silicon carbide and hard metal alloy, which can prevent the water from entering into the motor, and keep the operating reliable and safety.

7).  The auxiliary impeller can balance the pressure outside of the mechanical seal, prevent the water entering into the oil chamber and prolong the life of the motor.

8).  Unique impeller design, wide passage allow large solid and long fiber passing through freely, it features non-clog, convolve-proof and good passing ability.

9).  The changeable wearing ring is installed between the impeller and the volute to keep the optimum operation conditions. 


5. FAQ

1) How can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

2) Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

3) Do you have self-priming pumps?

Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.


 

WQ Series Sewage Vertical Centrifugal Pumps

WQ Series Sewage Vertical Centrifugal Pumps



Q:HelloMy question is about a 2000 Nissan AltimaThe coolant in my radiator seems to be emptying out very often. When I re-fill the radiator and start the car, coolant slowly starts dripping from below the a/c compressor. I do not know if its the a/c compressor that is leaking or some other part there. Is there a possibility that the compressor itself is leaking coolant or could it be the water pump? I checked the hoses that go in and out of the compressor and there seems to be no leak. All I can see is coolant from the bottom of the compressor dripping at a rate of, say 1 drop per 2 seconds.Thank you
water pump is bad
Q:I have a Stamas boat that I am in the middle of restoring. It has 2 chevy 350's, with borg warner (sp) tranny's, and v-drives. Anyway, it has standard water pumps to cool the engines, and it had 2 Sherwood pumps to circulate the water to cool the tranny's, and v-drives. First, I am using the boat in Lake Michigan only, the water is very cool year round since it is such a big body of fresh water. I was wondering if there was any recommendation on possibly using 2 electric pumps to circulate the water? If so, what would a good unit be? Second, the transmission coolers were brass, with a honey comb in the center for the ATS fluid to run through, and the water would run on the outside to cool the fluid. Is this a more effective way to cool the fluid than with those expensive brass fitting? Just checking before I spend a few hundred on them to see if a better way to cool my engine and tranny's, in all honestly though, I am more worried about effectiveness than cost.
You would be playing with fire to use electric pumps to cool the transmissions and v drives. I doubt they would put out the volume of cooling water needed to cool them and have enough extra volume just in case. Besides, the raw water pumps also would cool the engines and exhaust systems if they are raw water cooled or they would cool the anti freeze and exhaust and transmissions with heat exchangers and oil coolers. Those transmission coolers should be plumbed into the raw water system using the same water that flows through the engines. Not to mention the reliability of the electric pumps vs engine driven pumps.
Q:Car is ford taurus 98.The car had some problems including overheating as thermostat was bad so was was not working. i drove it 25 miles to garage (i had to stop once because too hot to let it cool), i brought it to Ford who replaced the thermostat. Now they tell me some bits of thermostat broke and they need to replace the waterpump and want $620 for it. The other repair were also extremely expensive and i want to bring it to another garage 1.3 miles away on flat road.-1- is it safe to drive 1.3 mile with no water pump or should iget it towed?-2- should i have to pay for the water pump or is it ford's fault if they did not remove the bits of broken thermostat before reconnecting new thermostat to hose ? Can i prove that the pump was working when i came in if i drove 25 miles with it ?Thanks for your help.
Ford people are boneheads for making you pay for something THEY broke. And what does the thermostat breaking have to do with the water pump? All they want to do is suck you in for every penny. All services are warrantied for X months/X miles. If they broke it, they are responsible for it. As for driving 1.3 miles without a coolant, I would not reccomend it unless you wanna cook eggs on your engine. Seriously though, You'll do more damage to the engine running without a coolant. Then you'll need new pistons, fry the oil in the engine and probably need a whole new engine. Have it towed, it's cheaper in the long run. Don't take it to Ford ever again. They're sufering and in the red, they need to make money some way, screwing people is the way to go.
Q:I have a 2001 chevy malibu and need to know how to check if the water pump needs replaced. The engine has been running much hotter than normal and is leaking coolant.
have a plumer come look at it every so often
Q:Water pump quot;leakingbut not dripping anything. how important?my 04 tacoma has a quot;leaking water pumpquot;. I just see some pink fluid around the seals, nothing is dripping. toyota dealer didnt make a big deal about it, just said i should get it done soon. heck they didnt even tell me, i just saw it on the receipt.other mechanics said the same thing. quot;whenever u want to do it we'll do it.is it not an hugely important mechanism or what? how long can i go without doing it? the first symptom would be the engine getting a little hotter? its been like that for 5-6 months.
there is an uncomplicated thank you to be sure what your pal believes and such. Ask your pal. Wicca is an unorganized faith, so as that on an identical time as there are some issues that are an identical between maximum Wiccans, there are sufficient variations that what you're able to desire to study online won't be what your pal believes. the ideal thank you to be sure precisely what they suspect is to easily ask them. in the event that they're your pal, they are going to be keen to describe.
Q:I've searched the net but cannot find exactly what I'm looking for and hoping someone out there can steer me in the right direction! Maybe I'm not looking in the right place....or do I have to fabricate my own? I'm up for the challenge!1) Trying to source a water pump that I'm going to power by HAND or a BICYCLE. 2) My choice of pump to give a continuous stream of water (very important) is a rotary (centrifugal) type or is there something else capable of a continuous output?3) This will NOT BE USED for potable water. SPECS:a) lightweight but durable, the smaller, the better. b) low RPM, high volume output and capable of producing/handling pressure. c) self-primingd) able to handle some small particulates in the water as I am using rain water. (from outside, NOT filtered, so the following may be present: bugs, dust, etc...) Thank you, in advance, for your help and would be nice to thank the individual(s) for a unique answer to my request at a later date so let me know you're preferred method of contact!
Those are widely used where hand or bicycle or animal power is common. It meets all your criteria except pressure. Depending on how much pressure you want/need a stand pipe or elevated tank might meet that requirement. If pressure is necessary, then go with a Double Acting Piston Pump and filter the suction. I recommend a Graded Sand Bed over the suction. I designed public water supply pumping stations drawing from rivers for years. Filtering the suction is no big deal.
Q:can stress from to much weight cause the engine to get hot and cause your water pump to leak out the weep hole? and what else causes it to leak?
There is a number of reasons for your water pump to leak. One could be its tear and wear due to years of used. Second is due to successive overheating. Weight cant cause water pump breakdown, as long as it does not overheats. To much pressure in the cooling system cause its breakdown. Hope this might help!
Q:In 2005, the water pump, export pressure in recent years decreased year by year, the running current is increasing, there are 4 pumps are like this. Professional personnel advice please!
See if the impeller problem is loose or something else. Impeller problems are generally
Q:water flow at faucet only when pump is running, but flow is slow
Most RV water pumps have a pressure switch. They shut off a few seconds after you initially turn them on because they have pressurized the line. Once you open a water valve (faucet/toilet) the pump will start running again. Low flow could be caused by the size of the pump, size of plumbing, or line blockage.
Q:Here are specifications for two water pump sets. I would like to know which one will have more vertical suction.Pump 1:1.5 hp, 98cc Engine, 4 - Strokes RPM 3600 (Engine RPM), Petrol Fuel, Fuel Consumption 700 ml/hour, Delivery (horizontal) 50m, Inlet / Outlet Port (Dia) 1.5x1.5 inches, Output Capacity 48000 Litres / Hour.Pump 2:3.3hp, 163 cc Engine, 4 - Strokes RPM 3600 (Engine RPM), Petrol Start amp; Kerosene Run, Fuel Consumption 700 ml/hour, Delivery (horizontal) 26m, Inlet / Outlet Port (Dia) 2x2 inches Output Capacity 36000 Litres / Hour.which one should I go for.
there is no way to tell from those numbers which one has more suction lift capacity. You would need the pump curves and see what the NPSHR is for each pump.

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