Wafer Type API Butterfly Valve With Locking Device

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

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Quick Details

Standard or Nonstandard: Standard
Structure: Butterfly
Pressure: Medium Pressure
Power: Manual
Material: CI,DI,WCB,SS,ALB,etc.
Temperature of Media: Medium Temperature
Media: water, oil, gas, etc.
Port Size: DN50-1200
Place of Origin: Tianjin, China (Mainland)
Model Number: D7A1X-10/16ZB1

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	Standard export packaging(plywooden case) or as per clients' requirements.
Delivery Detail:	within10-30 days after receipt of L/C or 30% deposit

Specifications

Wafer Butterfly Valve With Locking Device
1.2"~48"
2.150/200PSI
3.MSS SP-67, API609, EN593
4.material:CI,DI,SS,WCB,ALB,etc.

Wafer Type Butterfly Valve

DN50-DN1200(2"~48")

PN1.0/1.6MPa(150/200PSI)

Different design standards

Actuator (power): handle, wormgear pneumatic, electric etc.

Features:

1.Small in size and light in weight. Easy installation and maintenance. It can be mounted wherever needed.

2.Simple and compact construction, quick 90 degree on-off operation.

3.Flow curve tending to straight line. Excellent regulation performance.

4.Long service life. Standing the test of thousands opening/closing operation.

5.Wide selection of materials, applicable for various media.

Standard:

Design standard	Face to face	End flange	Test & inspection
MSS SP-67 API609 EN593	API609 ISO5752 series 20 BS5155	DIN PN10/16/25 ANSI B 16.1 BS4504 ISO PN10/16 JIS B 2212/2213 BS 10 table D BS 10 table E	API 598

Design standard

Face to face

End flange

Test & inspection

MSS SP-67

API609

EN593

API609

ISO5752 series 20

BS5155

DIN PN10/16/25

ANSI B 16.1

BS4504

ISO PN10/16

JIS B 2212/2213

BS 10 table D

BS 10 table E

API 598

Performance:

PN(MPa)	DN(mm)	Testing Pressure (MPa)	Applicable Temp. °C	Applicable Medium
Shell	Sealing
1.0/1.6	DN50 ~ DN1000	1.5	1.1	-45~ 150	Fresh water, Sewage, Sea water, Air, Vapor, Food, Medicine, Oils, Acids, Alkalis, etc.

PN(MPa)

DN(mm)

Testing Pressure

(MPa)

Applicable Temp. °C

Applicable Medium

Shell

Sealing

1.0/1.6

DN50 ~ DN1000

1.5

1.1

-45~ 150

Fresh water, Sewage, Sea water, Air, Vapor, Food, Medicine, Oils, Acids,

Alkalis, etc.

Material List:

Part Name	Material
Body	CI/DI/WCB/SS
Disc	DI/ALB/WCB/MONEL/CF8/CF8M
Stem	SS416/SS304/SS316/WCB
Seat	EPDM/BUNA/NBR/NR/PTFE/HYPALON/VITON/NEOPRENE

Q: I have my head off now I need to change my valves how do I do it?: The valves may not just slide right out. The keeper sometimes form a bit of a ridge on the valve.You need to remove that little ridge first if they don't just slide out. After they are out the guides may need work to achieve proper fit and centering of the valves. The valve seats may also need to be ground. Most of the time it is easiest to take the head to a machine shop for the valve work.

Q: What is the functional difference between the following:1. Blow Off Valve2. Dump Valve3. Bypass Valve4. Diverter Valve: My Dive save gave me the prospect to aim on the I3 interior the pool. Any sturdy dive save could. that's high priced kit which you will have for an prolonged time. It needs to in good condition authentic and paintings for you. besides, cooperative dive shops benefit a lot greater in a satisfied customer than they lose by applying letting you are trying on the BCD. I for you may t walk right into a dive save with out popping out with greater kit. LOL

Q: i was thinkin i needed rings cause my car was smokin like hell and had a bad compression test on one cylinder. anyways i got the head off and my valves are caked with black **** all down one side and the others are completely white. i dont know if when the car turns off if they're supposed to seal but four of them were about a quarter inch off the head. before i tested everything i was smokin like hell and barely runnin and you could hear a knockin sound in the exhaust at the rear of the car. could the head be the problem or still sound like rings??: have the head checked for level milling it may be warped if it has ever overheated..

Q: The shutoff valve for the hot water under my bathroom sink has a very tiny leak. It is coming from where the turn knob meets the valve.So long as the valve is either all the way open or all the way closed, all I get is a single drop every couple seconds. But if it is anywhere in-between, it is a pretty steady drip.What's the simple/quick fix for this? Replacing the entire shutoff valve is probably not an option because it is an apartment complex.: In this case, the terms simple and quick do not apply. What's happening is the valve packing gland is leaking. That's the seal around the valve handle that keeps the valve from doing what it's doing now. The valve needs to be replaced--period! It is actually the simplest and quickest fix for the problem. Of course the water will need to be shut off while it's being replaced. The good news is that a competent plumber can do it in fifteen minutes unless he runs into problems. Then, it can take up to 3/4 hour. Your landlord needs to address this issue.

Q: The check engine warning light came on in my car, i went to pump gas and try to start but it wouldn't start. I went to the dealership to let them check up, and they said the problem was the purge valve, it leaked. What is a purge valve and what does it do? Is it common for purge valve to go bad?: i would guess on avg 100K miles. But hey, my girlfriend has a 2006 altima and the starter went bust. My 98 acura still has it's original starter (honda uses great oem parts). things go depending on driving conditions and what we in the auto parts stores call flukes. Like a 2007 pontiac that needs a new ignition coil. That's why aftermarket companies continue to make parts for cars. no one wants to go to the dealer.

Q: One of the zone control valves in my heating system does not appear to be working. The thermostat is calling for heat, but no water is flowing. If the other thermostats call for heat, the valves seem to open as the pipes above the valve get hot from the water flowing through. The one that appears busted gets luke warm at best. All 4 valves in the system are fed from the same pipe, and the failed valve is the third in the series of 4 along the pipe (and #4 flows fine) so it doesn't appear to be something in the feeder pipe.Is there anything I can do to try and fix the existing valve, can I replace the valve myself? Would replacing the valve top of the valve (the green/gold portion) possible fix the issue (maybe a problem with the operation of the piston? Is there anything I ahve to do before removing the valve top aside from removing power to the valve?: By your description it sounds like you have a Taco zone valve, if so, you can twist the top, (head) and it disconnects from the valve body, you could swap it with one of the others to prove good or bad before you buy one, there not cheap.

Q: Does anybody know what the valve lash specs are on a 1986 chevy sprint 1.0L carbureted?: if you cant see clearly, just right click it and choose save as so you can enlarge it. this will be important. now... Rear of vehicle side = Intake valves Font of vehicle = exhaust valves Rotate crankshaft clockwise and align the timing notch on the pu;;ey to 0 on the timing tab. Remove the distributor cap and ensure the rotor is at 3 oclock This position indicates the is at compression stroke. TDC #1 cylinder. Using feeler gauge between rocker and valve syem, check intake and exhaust valve clearance on cylinder #1. After adjustment tighten the locknut to 11 to 13 ft pounds torque.

Q: I just got my trumpet today.And its playing fine.Now its not playing.When i play im blowing air into it but its not going through.Its like im trying to blow air through solid meatel.and everytime in blow into it.The slide with the ring on it (sorry i just got the trumpet,im not really sure what the parts are) it keeps falling off.Its like its waay too loose.Help please: instead of the standard cheapo trumpet grease, try a more generic brass instrument oil. also make sure you aren't tightening the valve screw cap too tightly. it's not a good idea just keep tapping it. also, unwanted moisture can create a seal that will sometimes inhibit the valve from popping back up. get it dried out as much as you can. also, don't use too much of anything - the oil, the grease, etc - excess will keep it from popping out too.

Q: My third valve is always sticking, despite the fact that I oil them thoroughly every other day. It scrapes the sides of the case when I take it out/put it in, it's almost as if the valve is too big for it. Often times it will stick and I'll have to unscrew it and physically pull it out for it to be functional again.I've inspected it, and the inside looks just like the others which are fine. I've tried washing it, oiling it, and putting a trace amount of vaseline on it. What is the problem?: Have you tried cleaning the valve casing (what the valve moves in)? If not, you can use a clean cloth that won't leave fibers in there, or a valve casing brush (couple dollars at the music store) to clean the inside. Many times dirt builds up at the bottom of the valve casing where it's supposed to and the valve eventually gets stuck in it. Also, like the poster above said, the plastic/metal guide could be getting caught. You can use slide grease to lubricate the slot in the top part of the valve (not the casing) where the guide moves. Just don't get any on the piston part of the valve. If all else fails, it is possible that the valve was not honed correctly at the factory and a professional will need to fix it.

Q: Could I get some possible remedies for Mitral Valve Prolapse pain? I currently am off beta blockers, and I need to cope with the mild, moderate to severe chest pain I experience. Female, average weight for my height, nonsmoker, maybe one alcoholic drink a week, exercise at least 3.5 hours a week. What do others with mitral valve prolapse do that helps?: I also have mvp..diagnosed 15 years ago. I've been taking magnesium for over a year now and notice a big difference in the amount and duration of my mvp episodes. Also drinking plenty of water helps a lot. Good Luck

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