• Submersible Sewage Pump 50Hp, Discharge Sewage Pump, Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump System 1
  • Submersible Sewage Pump 50Hp, Discharge Sewage Pump, Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump System 2
  • Submersible Sewage Pump 50Hp, Discharge Sewage Pump, Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump System 3
  • Submersible Sewage Pump 50Hp, Discharge Sewage Pump, Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump System 4
Submersible Sewage Pump 50Hp, Discharge Sewage Pump, Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump

Submersible Sewage Pump 50Hp, Discharge Sewage Pump, Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Specification

Item:
Submersible Sewage Pump 50Hp, Discharge Sewage Pump, Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump
Material:
Cast Iron ;Stainless Steel
Power:
Electric
Theory:
Centrifugal Pump
Exporting countries:
Ameircan,Japan,Australian etc
Application:
Sewage Pump

Submersible Sewage Pump 50Hp, Discharge Sewage Pump, Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump


Company Introduce

My company has more than 40 years history, is the China general machinery pump industry association member units.

My company has organized product research and development team, experienced high, intermediate technical staff.

Complete production and processing, inspection, testing (pump performance test platform), and other equipment, to ensure that product quality is stable and reliable.

Over the department, provincial, municipal and industry product quality supervision and inspection (smoke), only one is qualified to go through.Timely quality perfect after-sales service in place, favored by the majority of new and old customers rely on and praise.

My company has successfully passed the national industrial products production license, ISO9001 quality system review replacement work.

Relevant product standards (enterprise), metrology, standardization management system, etc.,

 have been acceptance by the superior department in charge of the inspection.Related to product development, production management, sales and aftersales service, are performed according to the system management standard.


Application

This series pump is widely used for sewage treatment of city construction discharge for architecture projects, hotel, mine, pond, dyeing and printing, paper making and textile industries.

It is the ideal tool for transportation of sludge, slurry, living sewage, feces and stale wastes, solid grains fiber, paper chips, sandy soil etc.



Model Description


100 WQ 50-30-3
100: Drain aperture (mm)
WQ: Submersible sewage pump
50: Capacity (m3/hr)
30: Head (m)
3: Power (kW)

Operations Conditions


1. The medium temperature should not be over 60oC, the density 1200Kg/m3, and the pH value within 5-9.
2. During running, the pump must not be lower than the permitted lowest liquid level.
3. Rated voltage 380 V, rated frequency 50 Hz. The motor can run successfully, only under the condition the deviations of both rated voltage and frequency are not over ± 5%.
4. The maximum diameter of the solid grain going through the pump has not to be larger than 50% of that of the pump outlet.



Submersible Sewage Pump 50Hp, Discharge Sewage Pump, Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump



Submersible Sewage Pump 50Hp, Discharge Sewage Pump, Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump

Submersible Sewage Pump 50Hp, Discharge Sewage Pump, Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump




Submersible Sewage Pump 50Hp, Discharge Sewage Pump, Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump


Submersible Sewage Pump 50Hp, Discharge Sewage Pump, Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump

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Submersible Sewage Pump 50Hp, Discharge Sewage Pump, Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump

Submersible Sewage Pump 50Hp, Discharge Sewage Pump, Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump



 


 Trading market

Submersible Sewage Pump 50Hp, Discharge Sewage Pump, Float Switch Submersible Sewage Pump

Transportation

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Q: I would like to ask the river for about 70 degrees on the steep slope pumping 170 meters, flat 40 meters into the pool, what should I choose water pump? How many heads? How to choose the water pump model? Thank you
70 degrees or so on the steep slope pumping 170 meters, vertical height of about 100m, you can choose the lift 120-150m of multi-stage pumps, nominal diameter 1 inches, 2 or 1 inches and a half can be.The power consumption of about 1520kW.
Q: Can I put in fluid and drive to the Service Station or should I have it towed? The fluid flows out as fast as I put it in. Thanks!
If your water pump is blown you should have it towed to a mechanic that you prefer to do the work, because it will need replaced. Don't drive it there because the belt that runs the water pump also runs the pumps that allow your brakes and steering to operate. I just had this happen to me and did exactly that.
Q: We're doing some droplet impact experiments and are creating the flow of water to our droplet generators by elevating our source of water. Unfortunately as the water depletes the pressure changes. We need to siphon off the water from our lower basin where the water collects and pump it back up to the source (around 6-8 feet up). What kind of pump do I need for this?
I presume you can’t use city water! Droplets probably mean very small water flow. You can try local used merchandise store. Often they have waterpik systems for a few $ They are piston type pump that means the output will be pulsating instead of continuous. Another option is a windshield washer pump. These are gear type, so provide a continuous flow. You would need a variable power supply to control the pump speed, therefore the flow. Good luck Hope this answers your question
Q: The truck has 89k on it and i'm having the timing belt done this week; would it be wise to get the pump changed since it's in the same area, even though it's not leaking; for preventitive maintenance purposes, or is there life left in the pump? I don't want to take it back soon after if the pump does go out
as a mechanic, I always OFFER the customer the option. The water pump can last a long time however, as you've probably been told, it is driven off the timing belt. Therefore, if, say six months from now the pump developes a leak, its like doing the whole job over. Now, the tech won't know for sure there isn't a small weepage at the pump seal until the parts are exposed. There is a vent hole or weep hole as some call it and it will get crusty stuff on it or coolant traces from it if the seal is beginning to leak. I have personally seen a few that have gone bad by the 90K service. You'd have to be awfully optimistic to think it's gonna last another 90K. Lastly though, the part going on should be a new pump, not a rebuilt. Quality is important. The only other item you have to look forward to failing, if it hasnt already is the starter contacts. A good shop familiar with this issue will replace the two contacts in the starter instead of gouging you for a reman unit. Hope that helps. Make sure they use the correct coolant formula for your vehicle. PS: those are awsome engines. a HUGE improvement over the 3.0 litre motor.
Q: ok so i have a crack in my radiator a small crack but anyways yesterday it caused my car to over heat. i normally keep coolant in the car but it just got low and over heated pretty bad. so today the car is making a really loud annoying noise. coolant is also draining out of the bottom of the engine when the car is on. at a pretty good pace. it is coming out like right under the belt area so my friend said it is probably the water pump baring and he said it could have gotten damaged when it over heated. so i think these symptoms def point to the water pump. anyways i called a mechanic and he said that he had to change the belt to and he said he had to charge me $385. what you guys think. does he need to change the pump and the belt or just the pump? and is $385 a rip off or is that the going rate? thank you all for your knowledgeand information
Read the above PLUS realize that you MUST use ONLY genuine Toyote coolant in your car. Other coolants will cause further deterioration of your cooling components. I have seen Toyota cylinder heads that look like Swiss cheese from using the green stuff. Also, make sure that your mechanic uses only genuine Toyota replacement parts, and NOT rebuilt pump. Replace the tensioner and idler pulleys now, as well. The price is a rip off if cheaper parts are being used. If these are all factory parts, then this price is GREAT!!
Q: I keep having to add water to. Doesn't do anything when it's sitting up. But after you drive it straight for about 25 minutes. Time to add some more water. I figure it's the water pump. It's not leaking anywhere so it has to be a failing water pump. Oil still looks good, no smoking. AC and heater blows fine. Just runs hot after a while. I need another opinion. Its the 4 cylinder also. And yes it does be steaming. Tired of having to add water everyday.
The water pump seal will go bad if it isn't already because you are adding plain water to the cooling system! Antifreeze has a rust inhibitor and a lubricant in it and if you don't have the correct strength mix the inside of the block rusts and then the heater core and the radiator get plugged up resulting in hundreds of dollars in repairs. The water pump if leaking will drip on the passenger side from under the timing belt cover if you let the motor idle for 5 to 10 minutes. Look for the drips on the inside of the RF tire. If the water pump is leaking the timing belt will jump and bend all the valves.
Q: How many pumps does a 50 meter water head use?
Deep well submersible pump head = dynamic water level to pipe outlet height + outlet pressure + hydraulic loss along courseTherefore, it is necessary to provide the dynamic water level of the well, the required flow rate, the pipe diameter, and the vertical height of the wellhead to the highest point, so as to estimate the pump head.
Q: The pump works and water goes to the house from the reserve tanks but there can be long delays before it cuts in after mains pressure is lost. After it stops the pressure gauge falls back slowly to zero. Pressure vessel is a sphere has a valve on top. Any suggestions ?
The guage is probably broken, but that is mostly for reference for setting your start/stop switch. Now, first off I'd check your bladder tank. A bad bladder tank will still give you some pressure but causes the pump to run almost constantly. To test that, there is a bicycle looking air valve sticking out of the bladder tank. Push a key or something in it as if you were to let air out of a tire. If any water comes out, your bladder is bad and has to be replaced. If you have an older style deep well, like a well house where the pump is accessible, check the switch, (little black box attached to the pump). There are two screws that can be turned. One sets the pressure the pump will turn off at and the other adjusts the minimum pressure you want for the water to turn back on and fill your tank. A lot of people go 20/40, I run mine at 30/50. Much more than that and you can run into problems, especially if you have cpvc pipes. They will weaken at the elbows and 60 psi of water can eventually make pin hole leaks. This is from personal experience. You will need a working gauge to set this. If the bladder is not your problem, email me and I'll give you more details on how to set your pump if you need it. Or, you can buy preset switches at your local hardware for $20 and just swap it out. In that case, do not mess with the adjustment screws.
Q: I have gotten oil in my coolant, and coolant in my oil..It might be the head gasket, no doubt, but many people said (online forums) that my bike, has issues with the seal that is separating oil pump from water pump. They go bad, and when they do, the oil mixes with coolant and vise versa. Now, I am seeking from professional help, on how to take out both of the pumps, without messing up timing, and also without messing up anything else. I have removed the entire exhaust system, dropped the oil pan, and i can see the oil/water pump pretty good. What i do not know is how to remove it properly. Any help is help, I have searched and searched on google and forums on how to perform this task, but couldnt find any specific help on how to remove the pump. Thank you!!!!!
Take pictures make notes if you don't have a manual.
Q: My car is overheating and i don't know why just trying to rule out as many options as possible.Things it is most likely not: blown gasket/cracked head, both replaced 2 years ago and no tell tale signs I will be doing a block test soon, thermostat replaced it and put the old one in hot water and it opened, hoses replaced with new one two years ago, no leaks pressure test a few days ago. Things yet to be ruled out The radiator being clogged or not allowing good airflow, water pump impeller failure.
if you have no fan activity, it will get hot at low speeds and at a stop position.

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