• Single Stage Horizontal Centrifugal Pump ISW Series System 1
  • Single Stage Horizontal Centrifugal Pump ISW Series System 2
  • Single Stage Horizontal Centrifugal Pump ISW Series System 3
Single Stage Horizontal Centrifugal Pump ISW Series

Single Stage Horizontal Centrifugal Pump ISW Series

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
300 unit/month

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Performance of Single Stage Horizontal Centrifugal Pump ISW Series

Flow Range:1.1-1200m3/h

Head Range:2.8-162m

Power Range:0.37-250KW

Temperature:-20ºC-240ºC

Material:Cast Iron,Stainless Steel

Work Pressure:≤1.6MPa

Introduction of Single Stage Horizontal Centrifugal Pump ISW Series
ISW series single stage single suction horizontal centrifugal pump is a high-efficient ,energy-saving product successfully designed by means of adopting the property data of IS model centrifugal pump and strictly in accordance with ISO2858 world standard and the latest national standard JB/T53058-93 and an ideal product to replace IS horizontal pump, DL model pump and other ordinary pumps. 

Features of Single Stage Horizontal Centrifugal Pump ISW Series
1. Impeller mounted directly on the long axis of the motor, pump and motor bearing arrangement is reasonable, pump operation can effectively balance the radial and axial loads, thus ensuring the smooth operation of the pump, small vibration and low noise. 
2. Mechanical shaft seal, use of imported titanium alloy seal ring, medium and high temperature mechanical seal with carbide materials, anti-wearing no leakage. 
3. Easy installation and maintenance, no need to open pipeline system, the rotation parts of the pump can be pulled out by removing the screws on the pump. 
4. According to the needs of flow and head, the pump can be used in series or parallel operation mode. 

Working Conditions of Single Stage Horizontal Centrifugal Pump ISW Series
1. Suction pressure ≤1.0MPa, the maximum pump system working pressure≤1.6MPa, the pump hydrostatic test pressure ≤2.5MPa. 
2. Ambient temperature <40 ºC, relative humidity≤40%. 
3. Content of solid particles in the medium per unit volume does not exceed 0.1%, particle size <0.2mm. 

Usage of Single Stage Horizontal Centrifugal Pump ISW Series
1. ISW type centrifugal pump for conveying water or other liquids that physical and chemical properties similar to water, like industrial and urban water supply and drainage, high-rise building pressurized water, garden irrigation, fire boost, long-distance transport , HVAC refrigeration cycle, bathroom and heating equipment for pressurized water circulation, temperature <80 ºC. 
2. ISWR type hot water pump is used in metallurgy, chemical industry, textile, wood processing, paper and restaurants, bathrooms, hotels and other high-temperature hot water boiler loop pressurized transport and urban housing heating circulating pump, temperature below 120 ºC. 
3. ISWH type chemical pump for conveying liquids without solid particles, corrosive, viscosity similar to water, which is used in petroleum, chemical, metallurgical, power, paper, food sectors such as pharmaceuticals and synthetic fibers , temperature is -20 ºC ~ 120 ºC. 
4. ISWY type explosion-proof pumps for the transport of gasoline, kerosene, diesel and other petroleum products, medium temperature of -20 ºC ~ + 120 ºC. 
5. ISWHY type stainless steel explosion-proof chemical centrifugal pump for conveying flammable and explosive chemical liquids. 
6. The above model pump with low-speed motor, suitable for occasions that require low noise, and air conditioning water circulation, etc.

Q: I have a 1986 Camaro and it is overheating. Thermostat was changed and fan is working. When it over heats it doesnt loose any coolant. Hoses are hot. I dont see any white smoke. No milky oil. Car runs good except sluggished going up hills. Dont see any leaks. I have notice that a water pump I replaced 2 years ago is all rusted on the outside. Could that be a bad pump? Why would a water pump rust on the outside?
Water pumps have no protection so over time they rust, as do other underhood parts. NEVER replace any part 'till you KNOW the problem. You need to visit a RADIATOR SHOP and have your radiator looked at. Water pumps don't cause overheating, radiators do.
Q: I need a water pump for a 1930 Chrysler Roadster and have no idea where to get one. Any suggestions?
No personal experience, but it is a start, try below linkage. I just Googled 1930 Chrysler Roadster
Q: I have replaced the presure switch on my water pump but it switches on and off when it is building up presure instead on staying on until it gets to right presure.Any ideas of what is causing this?
your tank is waterlogged turn the power off to the pump and drain the tank of water completely and turn the pump back on this should do the trick Ive had it happen to me and it worked
Q: replaced one themostat, disconected lower unit twice look at the water pump everything looks fine but when lower unit was reconnected water pump would not work. not sure if asembled it wrong or forgot to d somthing. can someone help.
im guessing the impeller (in a count of a pair days off) went undesirable, that's unlikely, not probable all that unlikely. how previous replaced into it? are you interior the habit of cranking the motor without water attached? the two holes are exhaust alleviation ports -- their functionality is to alleviate stress to facilitate beginning, which might somewhat be made complicated by means of backpressure on the underwater exhaust. various the water comes out down by means of the decrease unit, even though that's common to work out water popping out those ports.
Q: I tried using my water line with a pressure tank and pressure switch but without a pressure tank I observed that when he pressure reaches 30 psi the motor pump switches off automatically and when we open the faucets to use water the pressure switch turns on again the motor pump.
A pressure tank acts to mellow out the surges inherent in the action of the pump. Without a pressure tank, the service life of the pump is diminished. Think of using a garden hose at full volume at the end of 50 feet of 1 pipe. That works out to 17 pounds of water moving at a high speed. When flow stops the 17 pounds of water has a tremendous amount of energy that has to go somewhere. It is better if that force goes into an air cushion at the top of pressure tank rather than into the vanes of the pump.
Q: Fire hydrant and fire pump adapter difference
The most simple argument is outside fire hydrant water pump adapter, irrigation from.More outdoor fire hydrant, both sides of the road can be seen at any time, that is, red like a villain, there is a hat on the head. Pump adapter is not that hat.
Q: 1997 Caravelle 1900BR3.0L HO Volvo PentaSX Cobra OutdriveI have a small leak coming from my raw water pump, it is not a continuous stream just a drop every now and then. The best I can tell it is coming from between the shaft and water pump housing. Is there just a small o-ring there? How can this be fixed?We're going to the lake for Memorial Day Weekend. Will I be alright with the small drip for over the weekend? Then I'll fix it when I can get the parts.
Usual answer is to look for the flats of the gland on the shaft on tighten up with a spanner,as this will compress the packing a bit more. A small drip is not very bad but you are right to check.
Q: I have 1 92 cadillac sedan deville and I am takin a 12 hour road trip tomorrow and I want to know if my water pump is goin bad or is it the fuel pump? Please help driving by myself and don't wanna get stranded anywhere. thank you in advance
There are 2 key indications that you have a bad water pump. #1 and most obvious is your engine should overheat. This wont take long since the water pump is what circulates the coolant to keep your engine cool so within a couple of minutes of starting the car you should see your temp needle go way up. #2 is a little tricky because if your leaking coolant/antifreeze it can be because of a bad waterpump or a cracked hose or even a cracked or damaged radiator. Your best bet if your overheating is to have a pressure test done that will inspect for any leaks in your cooling system. If that turns out ok then the waterpump is the culprit. Be ware though in many models a water pump although a simple part and fix can be extremely expensive due to where it is place and how difficult it is to get to. Most manufacturers placed the waterpump in an area that requires you to take many components apart in order to reach it and often it is wise to replace your timing belt while your at it to avoid future expenses because that is also where your timing belt is so I would strongly advise anyone who is replacing their water pump to replace their timing belt as well.
Q: I have a '97 Chevy S-10 2.2 with 208K miles. Today on the way to work the heat cut out suddenly.I have had an issue with my engine where the temp will go up and down while on the highway but maxes out at like 215. Today after the heat cut out it was getting up near the redline before going back down to 150.I made sure the coolant was good before coming home but on the way home it was doing the same thing. I changed the thermostat but it's still doing the same thing.When I rev the engine I can see the upper radiator hose collapsing so it seems like there's a clog somewhere but I don't know how to find it. I guess it could be the water pump but then what is causing the suction on the upper radiator hose?Anyone have any ideas?
doesnt sound like water pump you may have lost a heater core thats what it sounds like to me its getting vacuum and temp is jumping but you dont have heat sounds like it to me check that next but as with the other selection check if your thermostat is in wrong
Q: I've never had overheating problems before, (although the heating itself never worked great) but today the gauge suddenly spiked while driving at about 50mph. I pulled over and steam was coming off the engine and the cooland tank was bubbling. The coolant was low, but not empty. I put some water in the coolant tank, let the engine cool and drove to a gas station where I got some coolant which I mixed with the water in the coolant tank. That didn't seem to help any. Even after letting the engine cool completely, it spikes after less than five minutes of driving. The radiator and both top and bottom hoses are equally hot. When I tried to start the engine with the radiator cap off, cooland shoots up out the top. The fans are working propely and there is no debris on the front of the radiator. So I'm sort of at a loss. Also, I've had some trouble starting since the problem.
Hi so your issue is most likely the radiator cap as well over time the spring in the lid of the cap which retains pressure becomes weak over time.

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