• Single Core PVC Insulated Flexible Cable 300 /500V System 1
  • Single Core PVC Insulated Flexible Cable 300 /500V System 2
  • Single Core PVC Insulated Flexible Cable 300 /500V System 3
  • Single Core PVC Insulated Flexible Cable 300 /500V System 4
Single Core PVC Insulated Flexible Cable 300 /500V

Single Core PVC Insulated Flexible Cable 300 /500V

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
1000 m
Supply Capability:
100000 m/month

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1. Product Description

PVC insulated wire have good quality and the lowest price. If you buy our product, we can be sure that you cannot be regretted. Used in electric meter and electrical equipment and automatic device and so on.

Specific Property for Using

1. The long-time permissible working temperature of cable conductive core is not more than 70C.

2. During short circuit (max permanent time is not more than 5 seconds), the max temperature of cable conductor is not more than 165.

3. The difference level of laying cable is not restricted. When laying the cable, ambient temperature is not lower than 0.

2. Product Characteristic

4. They have good chemical stability, and properties of acid resistance, alkali resistance, salt resistance, oil resistance, solvent resistance and flame resistance. 
5. Light weight, good bending property and easy installation and maintenance. Technical Requirement

6. Type: BV, BLV, BVR, BVV, BLVV, BVVB and more

3. Product Specification

Type

H05V-K, H07V-K

Voltage  Rate

300/500V, 450/750V

Range of Nominal cross section:

0.50 mm2 ~ 120 mm2

Application

Flexible wiring, for switch control, instrumentation panels and for internal connection.

Standard

IEC 60227, BS6500, VDE0281, GB/T 5023, JB/T8734

Constructions

Conductor: Class 5 fine annealed copper wires

Insulation: PVC

Core color: Brown, Grey, Black, Blue, Green/Yellow or others on request

Max. Operating Temperature

70℃, can be 90℃,105℃ as per requirement

4. Reference Picture

Single Core PVC Insulated Flexible Cable 300 /500V

Single Core PVC Insulated Flexible Cable 300 /500V

Single Core PVC Insulated Flexible Cable 300 /500V 

Q: All the DIY info shows how to change a light fixture. What do you do with the wiring if you want to remove a chandelier, but not replace it with another?I want to make sure the wires in the ceiling are not capable of starting a fire. This is in the first floor of a two-story.
TURN CIRCUIT OFF.GET A LADDER,SCREW DRIVERS,WIRE NUTS,ELECTRICAL TAPE,COVER PLATE FOR THE HOLE OR YOU CANREFILL HOLE.UNSCREW CHANDELIER, USING SNIPS CUT WIRES,PUT WIRE NUTS OR EACH INDIVIDUAL WIRE,THEN TAPE EACH SEPERATE BUT TOGETHER SO IF NEEDED AGAIN.OR GO TO THE WALL SWITCH.UNSCREW PLATE,TAPE WIRES SEPERATE THEN BIND TOGETHER,IF YOU ARE GOING TO REPLACE CHANDELIER WITH ANOTHER LIGHT INSTALL LIGHT ON CHANDELIER END
Q: I was sitting in my living room, when I heard a loud POP. A couple minutes later, I went to the refrigerator and seen that it wasn't working (no power). I checked the fuse box, and there is a fuse blown. I tried to reset it, but it just makes a loud pop noise, and flips. It will not reset. There is nothing plugged into those outlets other than the refrigerator and our water dispenser machine. These same two things have been plugged in for years, without any issues. Is this most likely a short somewhere in the wiring?
If the fuse in the fuse box is blown it is telling you that something along the line is shorting out and dangerous. I would remove the mains fuse and then check the wiring and plug for any damage. Check the fridge where the wiring enters for fraying or any damp. If you cant find an obvious fault get an electrician and on no account put a higher mains fuse in !!
Q: Hi, My house has a wire for a light sticking out of the wall on the outside of the house. Problem is that there is no electrical box, so I have nothing to mount my light too. The outside is wood. Does anyone have any suggestions, that will work, and is safe? Thanks for your timepb4sc
install a water tight box. then install light on box. tools drill,screwdriver,screws,drill bit
Q: Hello, we have several plugs that have no ground wire. The electrical wire for most of those plus seem to be running through the ceiling (not accessible that I know of). There is a basement and it looks like the plugs that have been grounded are connected to a cold-water pipe. We would like to tap in a junction box in the basement, and run a new wire (that includes ground) to a non-grounded receptacle by drilling a hole through the floor. Then, run the wire externally on the wall, drill another hole right below the receptacle cover to insert the wire inside and make the connection.Is the external wire against code? Does it have to be hidden inside a wall?
No you can't run it exposed Thats what is called exposed to physical damage and has to be protected, and for the fella saying it may be BXHAHA! The outer jacket of BX IS NOT a Ground!! Back when BX was used they used 2 prong outlets, Hence NO GROUND! If you don't know Electrical work, Call an Electrician and don't give recommendations that you are clueless about!
Q: anything in particular to worry about? besides killing myself. I bought the plug w/ the 3 loose wires sticking out as well as the new hot water line and elbow to replace the current copper line. the middle one looks like the green (ground) but i can't tell which one is the black or white one, they all have metal tips. Also, do i have to have the little plastic tops to twist the wires together? or electrical tape sufficient?
a dish washer needs to b e hard wired if you do not know what this means get a electrician.
Q: I have an old house (built in 1962) and after testing all of my outlets, have confirmed that none of them are grounded. The house is made of brick, so it would be extremely expensive to run new circuits through the house. I really only need 1 or 2 outlets to be grounded so that I can protect my expensive equipment from damage. So what I wanted to know is if I could buy a spool of 10 gauge solid copper core insulated grounding wire, drill a hole through the brick behind the outlet, connect to the outlet and run the other end of the wire around the outside of the house to the main box. Would that be safe? Would it hold up to power spikes?
1962 is not that old. You will likely have circuit breakers rather than fuses. Your service entrance must be grounded (or the utility would not have provided service). (1) Your branch circuits should be supplied by BX (armored cable, either AWG#14 or AWG#12) the cable armor is the ground path back to the fuse or breaker panel. If your house is wired with ROMEX (amateur work) the ROMEX (plastic covered cable) it should have three conductors: black, white, and green. Green is the ground conductor. (2) Many Service Entrances (fuse, or circuit breaker distribution panels) are grounded to water mains. However, many water meters are installed with Dresser Couplings (Rubber insulated compression fittings) which are non-conductive. The ground connection must be made on the street side of the water meter (if you use a public water supply). It's more likely that you have a poor ground path than no ground path. Ground rods driven into the earth are helpful but generally poor.
Q: How to use a multimeter to measure the power line barrier
The general digital set-top boxes are connected through the video TV you find the TV behind the video interface yellow is the image of white and red voice must not plug the wrong set-top box the same and then you stare to change the mouth to clear the glass with the remote control video It's up
Q: I want to replace a switch (not 3 way) with a switch that also has a plug on it. Does it wire the same? If you could check out my other question
From your question It is clear to me you need to hire an Electrician to do this job for you. Hey these guys have got to earn a living too! Consider the safety factor for you and your Family. A good Electrician is worth his weight in Gold!!
Q: Basically I've got 1 ceiling light in the hallway but I want two. How do I split the 3 wires from the Original light to get them to connect to the 2nd light. I have the relevant wire just no idea how to split
Without training and experience, with someone who actually knows how to do this stuff, you cannot safely and properly do what you're asking. There are literally dozens of different things you need to know, including what the existing wires are connected to, whether they were done properly, how to make sure the circuit is dead (assuming you don't want to find out the hard way), what size and type of wire you need, how to cut and strip the wires properly, how to install and fasten the new wiring in place, what kind of box and clamps you need, what size wire nuts, how much wire to leave sticking out, not to mention whether you need a permit and inspection for your work and whether your fire insurance will actually still cover you if something goes wrong
Q: How to use the omnipotent amount of electricity leakage of the wire How to check whether the wire leakage
Do not specifically do maintenance, will be miserable, with the point of doing the hardware or software sales can also do things such as Internet cafes system maintenance and wiring and the like, start the fund is not very high, only the accessories as long as the common model accessories There are on the line, maintenance test tools also can not spend much money.

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