• Single Core PVC Insulated Flexible Cable 300 /500V System 1
  • Single Core PVC Insulated Flexible Cable 300 /500V System 2
  • Single Core PVC Insulated Flexible Cable 300 /500V System 3
  • Single Core PVC Insulated Flexible Cable 300 /500V System 4
Single Core PVC Insulated Flexible Cable 300 /500V

Single Core PVC Insulated Flexible Cable 300 /500V

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
1000 m
Supply Capability:
100000 m/month

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1. Product Description

PVC insulated wire have good quality and the lowest price. If you buy our product, we can be sure that you cannot be regretted. Used in electric meter and electrical equipment and automatic device and so on.

Specific Property for Using

1. The long-time permissible working temperature of cable conductive core is not more than 70C.

2. During short circuit (max permanent time is not more than 5 seconds), the max temperature of cable conductor is not more than 165.

3. The difference level of laying cable is not restricted. When laying the cable, ambient temperature is not lower than 0.

2. Product Characteristic

4. They have good chemical stability, and properties of acid resistance, alkali resistance, salt resistance, oil resistance, solvent resistance and flame resistance. 
5. Light weight, good bending property and easy installation and maintenance. Technical Requirement

6. Type: BV, BLV, BVR, BVV, BLVV, BVVB and more

3. Product Specification

Type

H05V-K, H07V-K

Voltage  Rate

300/500V, 450/750V

Range of Nominal cross section:

0.50 mm2 ~ 120 mm2

Application

Flexible wiring, for switch control, instrumentation panels and for internal connection.

Standard

IEC 60227, BS6500, VDE0281, GB/T 5023, JB/T8734

Constructions

Conductor: Class 5 fine annealed copper wires

Insulation: PVC

Core color: Brown, Grey, Black, Blue, Green/Yellow or others on request

Max. Operating Temperature

70℃, can be 90℃,105℃ as per requirement

4. Reference Picture

Single Core PVC Insulated Flexible Cable 300 /500V

Single Core PVC Insulated Flexible Cable 300 /500V

Single Core PVC Insulated Flexible Cable 300 /500V 

Q: And should you use electrical tape at the base of your wire nuts?
If I nick a wire while stripping it, I will use tape to repair it. I bundle certain wires together using electrical tape. I mark large gauge wires as you mentioned, and I threaten to use it on my jabbering apprentices. Using it at the base of a wire nut is the mark of a non professional wire person. Same with wrapping it around a switch or receptacle. No real electrician does that. No need to. And it irritates the next real electrician who works on it. black red blue brown orange yellow white and green and little sticky numbers
Q: 75 flat cable, copper and aluminum, each can withstand much current
With yellow wax tube is not bad, but not standardized. In fact, the turning device into the PVC pipe need to turn the place, and then fold the PVC at any angle or any angle, then turn out the turn, PVC pipe on the turn, so do not need to use elbow, when the cable Also very smooth and convenient. You can try, hope to help you.
Q: I need to drill into the doorframe which is pre fabricated pressed metal and I don't want to drill into the electrical wires . Is there any chance I could drill into them .
no wires in a frame,, but go to walmart and get one of the less than $10 circuit testers and run it along the area you want to drill,, it will beep if there is any wires there!!
Q: RVV2 * 1.0 is a wire or a cable
This model is soft wire, double core. The cross section is 1mm2. The conductor is copper, the insulation sheath is PVC material.
Q: Whether the wire tube is connected to the electrical bridge can be connected to the bottom of the bridge
(7000-yuan), according to the product design of the mold, for welding power lines and hardware (plug), but also to understand the injection of the equipment, Of the soldering iron production process: 1
Q: Adventure Island game in the Qi Nepal's Lloyd research mission where to play the wire bag where to play?
Apple's mobile phone software BUG, try this method, so good to go after the sale! 1) to open the device 2) into the system 3) insert the data line 4) see the "This cable or accessories have not yet been certified, it may not work with this iPad reliable" tips, do not point anything including buttons, direct pull Out of data lines. 5) insert the data line, you will see the prompt, then close the warning message.
Q: I am installing a new light switch on the inside of an exterior wall in my walkout basement. Because of the floor joists and finished ceiling, the only way I can figure to get the wiring to that location is by punching it through to the outside and running it along the wall and over to the location of the switch. This run will be about 30ft long and go around one corner. My question is: Can I do this with bare UF (outdoor romex) wire? Or will the wire need to be installed in a conduit?
Wires above ground should be in a conduit to protect them from abrasion. Grey romex is okay for underground without a conduit, as long as it's buried at least 18 in the soil.
Q: Background: I have a 12/3 wire coming up from the circuit panel in the basement to the attic that was wired when the house was built (~1971). The two live wires are connected to separate 20 amp circuit breakers in the panel box. Each of the live wires are connected to separate load (1 is connected to an attic fan and 1 is connected to an AC air handler) - I think the attic fan draws about 6-7 amps and the air handler draws about 14 amps, and both are connected to the white wire in the 12/3 BX.Q: Is this ok? Specifically, if the sum of electricity from the 2 load wires is greater than 20 amps, is it ok for the white wire going back to the circuit panel, e.g. will that get dangerously hot/is it against code? (This is in NY State)
if okorder
Q: A friend of mine had his kitchen remodeled and the wiring for the cabinets is visible in the back of the cabinets. It is also stapled to the side and the back of the cabinet and runs to the bottom corner to the recessed lights. I told him electrical wiring should not be stapled and not visible. I have never opened a cabinet with exposed wiring. Not only that but the molding is not secured to the external cabinet. The doors on the front also have a 1/4 or so gap when closed. I said the doors need to be flush, almost touching. Not a gap like Dave Lettermans teeth.
Sounds like shoddy workmanship to me.
Q: I have a baby monitoring system camera that isn't wireless and I want to make it wireless. It comes with a wire that plugs into an a/c adapter that goes into the wall. The a/c adapter has an input of 120ac and an output of 12dc. I also have a battery holder that holds 8 AA batteries and has two wires coming out of it. I want to cut the wire going to the a/c adapter and hook it up to the wire going to the battery holder. Will this work and how do I hook up the wires?
The easy answer would be to solder a DC connector identical to the one on the output end of the AC adapter to the two wires coming off the battery holder (red to center pin, black to ring). Here's the not so easy part: What is the current (amperage) required by the camera? The voltage of 8 AA batteries may equal 12VDC, but they probably won't be able to handle the amount of current the camera needs to work. Larger 12VDC batteries might work, but make it less portable, and the operating time might still be limited. Maybe a 12VDC battery from a power back up unit? Is the power cable the only think keeping his camera from being wireless? How does it transmit its signal?

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