• Nicrosil-Nisil (Type N) thermocouple A quality System 1
Nicrosil-Nisil (Type N) thermocouple A quality

Nicrosil-Nisil (Type N) thermocouple A quality

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Shanghai
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Min Order Qty:
100000 m
Supply Capability:
1000000 m/month

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1. WHY CHOOSE WISDOM NICR HIGH QUALITY THERMOCOUPLE ALLOYS? 

All our raw material is made from prime material, not recycle material. We have more than 25 years experience in manufacturing thermocouple alloys. 

In the market, not all the Thermocouple alloys are with standard chemical composition and stable EMF. Professional and reliable is the soul of our business. 

2. DESCRIPTION OF THERMOCOUPLE ALLOYS: 

A thermocouple is a temperature measuring device consisting of two conductors of dissimilar metals or alloys that are connected only at the ends. When the ends are at different temperatures a small voltage is produced in the wire that can be related directly to the temperature difference between the ends. If the temperature at one end is known, the temperature at the other end can be determined. 

Thermocouple wire or extension grade wire is recommended to be used to connect thermocouples to the sensing or control instrumentation. The conditions of measurement determine the type of thermocouple wire and insulation to be used. Temperature range, environment, insulation requirements, response, and service life should be considered. 

3. WISDOM THERMOCOUPLE ALLOYS CHARACTERISTICS: 

1)Manufactured according to international quality. System (ISO9001) IEC584-1 IEC584-2 standard 

2)Stable EMF and long-life span 

3)Mill test certificate will be provided after production 

4)Size range wire: . 0.05-10mm ribbons: 0.05-0.2*2-6mm strips: 0.05-5*5-250mm 

5)Good packing methods to keep goods no damage during delivery 

6)Customized lable, packing, OEM service 

7)24 hours after-sale service 

4. MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF WISDOM THERMOCOUPLE ALLOYS 

TYPE J (Iron vs Constantan) is used in vacuum, oxidizing, inert or reducing atmospheres. Iron element oxidizes rapidly at temperatures exceeding 538'C, and therefore heavier gauge wire is recommended for longer life at these temperatures. 

TYPE K (CHROMEL vs ALUMEL ) is used in oxidizing, inert or dry reducing atmospheres. Exposure to vacuum limited to short time periods. Must be protected from sulfurous and marginally oxidizing atmospheres. Reliable and accurate at high temperatures. 

TYPE T (Copper vs Constantan) is used or service in oxidizing, inert or reducing atmospheres or in vacuum. It is highly resistant to corrosion from atmospheric moisture and condensation and exhibits high stability at low temperatures. It is the only type with limits of error guaranteed for cryogenic temperatures. 

TYPE E (CHROMEL vs Constantan) may be used in oxidizing, inert or dry reducing atmospheres, or for short periods of time under vacuum. Must be protected from sulfurous and marginally oxidizingatmospheres. Produces the highest EMF per degree o any standardized thermocouple. 
Type N thermocouple (Ni Cr Si-Ni Si Mg) is the latest base metal thermocouple, developed to improve the drawbacks that type K thermocouple has. The main chemical composition of positive leg Nicrosil(NP) is Ni: Cr: Si≈ 84.4: 14.2: 1.4; Negative leg Nisil (NN) is Ni: Si: Mg≈ 95.5: 4.4: 0.1. Type N thermocouple also be used in the similar atmospheres that type K works, and the operating temperature range is -200~1300 ° C.

Q: I love squirrels, but they nibble at everything, which includes the electrical wires. I don?t want to cause them any harm but is there a way to make them go away? I tried to make it difficult to climb up the house but they are experts at it
You better get at it. Winter is coming and they are looking for suitable lodgings. Board up the entrance if you can find it. Otherwise they will breed in your attic and then they are like homing pidgeons. They will stay. They are tree rats.
Q: I need this for homework :(
Copper is a very good conductor of electricity plus it is more abundant as compared to other metals which can conduct electricity as well.
Q: 1. i was trying to replace a light switch. the electrical wires seem to be stuck once they are inserted inside of the light switch. i tried very hard to pull them out, but they don't move at all. oh, yes, i was using the rocker switch instead of the standard switch. i had no problem of pulling the wire out of the standard switch.are those rocker switches designed like that? 2. also, during the process, the insulating plastic tube covering the electrical wire got torn a little bit. should i be worried? or should i wrap it with those black insulating tape?thanks.
Stick a screwdriver into the release holes and push the screwdriver when pulling on the wire. If this does not work just cut the wires and restrip.
Q: I'm 16 now, but 5 years ago I started doing electrical work at home without anyone's supervision. I changed a few outlets and switches with new ones, and wired some new outlets in the basement where there weren't any. I did this while my parents went out bowling for the evening. If your son did that, how would you feel about that? I wired everything according to code, and turned off the right breaker while working on things.
I don't think most 11-year-olds would be able to do this safely. Where did you learn how to do these things by that young age? How did your parents not notice your work?
Q: First off, I apologize for my ignorance; I'm new at this. Does electrical wire (12 gauge for example), come as a single wire? For example, if I'm installing a 20A outlet 40 feet away from the breaker, do I need 40 or 80 feet of 12 gauge wire?It is my understanding that each outlet needs a (+) and (-) wire, as well as a grounding wire. Is this correct?Thanks for your help!
You would normally hire a professional to do a job you don't know how to do, read a book about it, watch how it's done, ask a few questions and then try a simple job under supervision of someone with more experience. A 20A receptacle would normally need a cable marked 12/2 with ground, type NM (if allowed non-metallic) or type AC (armored). You would need enough to get from the closest existing branch circuit to the location of the new outlet, including going around corners and up inside or down inside walls, ceilings and floors, to hide most of your wiring. Yes, a receptacle would need to be connected to a hot, a neutral and a grounding conductor, for proper installation under most US electrical codes, although there are exceptions.
Q: going to roll out attic insulation between the ceiling joists. what do I do when I come across wires that go through the joists? Can I roll the insulation over the wires or should I cut it and leave the wire exposed and start the roll again on the other side of the wire?
There are some people that shouldn't give advise if they don't know what they are talking about. Please, please don't ever cover an electrical wire with insulation. Jim W is right on! Heat will destroy electrical wire. The NEC's acceptable method of workmanship manner is to (actually) take the time and PULL the insulation under the wire.
Q: 1/0 AWG. RADAFLEX ^ to 90C, 1580 strand count, 32 AWG wires. Knukonceptz ^ to 105C 5145 strand count 36 AWG wire Not a huge difference in C but a huge difference in strand count I was just curious to as how strand count and size effects current flow?
very little or no difference in conductance. Strand count primarily effects flexibility. A lead wire for a welder flopping around on a shop floor doesn't need to have the flexibility of a large cable being routed through the firewall of a car. Don't let anyone try to BS you with skin effect and why you need high strand count using very fine wires. Skin effect is only an issue in very high frequency AC transmission.
Q: I have an old farm house with 3 out buildings. The main house has electrical service. One out building has a circuit panel that then feeds to an out building and a barn. The out building with a circuit panel used to have separate electrical service but does not any longer. I would like to run a feeder line from the main house to the outbuilding circuit panel which would then provide power to the barn and additional out building. the distance between the two circuit panels is approximately 120'. there is a standard indoor line that runs most of the way. Can these two boxes be tied together at all? With the standard 12/2 line that is in place? What I would be running off this line is basically lights in the barn and 2-3 computers plus a space heater in the outbuilding.Any ideas?
8, either 2 or 3 depending on how you plan to wire it, not 12, should be used on a 40 amp like that. 120' shouldn't be an issue for what you are proposing.
Q: I want to install 110W bulbs instead of 55W bulbs on my 2003 subaru legacy so i can see better at night. the stock bulbs are not bright enough. will i melt the wiring with the extra current?
Hotter headlights might damage the housing due to the heat as you're doubling the output. The current and wiring should not be an issue, however. Anything brighter than OEM is illegal and might earn you a ticket from local law enforcement . Parts on a car are designed to work safely. So the reason you have 55W bulbs are so as not to blind other drivers. This is something few people consider when buying auto accessories. Make sure that the headlights are aimed properly, so the proper amount of light is on the road. Brighter headlights will not solve this problem. Driving lights might be a better alternative, but make sure that they are low beams and aimed to the road and not the trees. Hella makes a good set.
Q: I had a home inspection and the inspector pointed out a couple of instances where electrical wiring is in contact with some gas pipes and should be corrected. Why is this a problem?
Gas and electricity make a big boom when they mix. Wire and pipes move a little bit all the time this causes the pipe to wear through the insulation when that happens it go boom.

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