Teflon Wire UL1591

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT or LC

Min Order Qty:: 1000 Meters m

Supply Capability:: 300 Kilometers per Month negotiable m/month

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*Rated temperature: -100~+200°C; -100~+250°C.

*Rated voltage: 300 volts, 600volts

*Conductor: Solid or stranded, silver plated copper or tinned copper conductor

*Size: 10 ~ 30 AWG..

*Insulation: PFA or FEP, with optional color schemes such as transparent, white, black, red, blue, grey, yellow, green, brown, orange, yellow-*green and red-white etc.

*Resistant to acids, alkalis, oils, flame retardant, fire resistance, and low smoke, no halogen.

Applications:

Widely applied in Electronic instrument & device, electrical appliance, lighting equipments, leads for transformer & electrical motor, air-conditioner,microwave oven, electric products, electric heater, oven, electric factory, various motors and so on.

Q: I love squirrels, but they nibble at everything, which includes the electrical wires. I don?t want to cause them any harm but is there a way to make them go away? I tried to make it difficult to climb up the house but they are experts at it: I think the danger is to the squirrels and not the electrical wires. You will have to set one or more traps and haul the rats with bushy tails away to a nearby park or someone on the other side of town you dislike, and release them so they can't find their way back.

Q: Does anyone know what the voltage means on electrical wire sheathing? Some 14AWG wires show 600V and others are 800V.I have a burnt wire that shows 1000V.They are all 14AWG, stranded, copper wire. I just don't know what the voltage rating means. Does the wire support up to that many volts or does the sheath resist heat better the higher the number is?: The voltage shown is the maximum that the insulation can handle. Different types and thicknesses can handle different voltages before failing. Wires are burnt by current, not voltage.

Q: Hi everyone.We moved in a new house (not an appartment). The basement is finished. I am not usually be down there yet, so I can say it is not in use. I turned the separately partial heater down to 50 F degrees. The basement has some problem, the electric down there seems not steady. When I turn the neon lights on, it keeps blinking for the first 30 seconds. When I touch the switchers, it shocks me a little bit.For addition, my house is like 1600 square feet, 2 bed rooms, 1.5 baths. I keep the central air heater (pretty new, 2009) at 78 F degrees, and the electric bill first month came at $288 saying I used 2606 kWh for 20 days. I doubt that my basement's electrical wiring set-up is broken somewhere, so the electric leaks or wastes somehow.Questions are: Is it the first bill $288 for my house size weird? How do I test if my electrical wire set-up is not wasting my money?Thanks everyone.: Do you have any electric heaters? The electricity is not leaking. If you have an electical leak, it is not the same as a water leak. An electrical leak will not increase your electicial bill noticeably. It will trip a breaker, blow a fuse, or cause a fire. You keep the basement at 50 degrees. this is likely the reason your neon (fluorescent lights) flicker before coming on. Fluorescent bulbs often will flicker or glow when the are cold and/or damp. If your house is noew the electrical boxes should be proerly grounded. As for the electrical shocks, they could be static electricity discharging to the grounded electrical boxes. If you are not sure, hire a reputable qualified electrician to check this out. If your house is new; keep any bills and present them to the builder only if there a fault was found in the wiring.

Q: I have an unfinished basement with a drywall ceiling. I will be running 12/2 electrical wire about 25 feet across the basement to the breaker box. Can I run the electrical wire on the outside of the drywall and staple it in place? I don't feel like fishing the wire through the ceiling.: It's not that much work to fish it through. Really, it's not. And then it will be done the right way. Outside the drywall and stapled up isn't legal by me and probably isn't near you either.

Q: Hi,I have 5 earth wires in a blue plastic electrical box. My understanding is that to be to code I have to twist the 5 wires together, put a wirenut on and then do individual pigtails to each of the three switches. I have the biggest wirenut I can find, a wiregard 18-8 AWG 19-006 #6 red .I can't get all the wires in there what is the other option? I can't be the only one needing to deal with this problem? This will be inspected.: Use a larger wirenut. WT54 blue will do it.

Q: electrical house wiring questions : what do we call (whats the technical name) to the wire use in electrical house wiring connect to the switches (buttons) ? one is the hot wire (live wire) the other one is . ?what does happen if we connect a hot (live) wire with neutral wire ?what does happen if we connect a hot (live) wire with earth wire ?what does happen if we connect a hot (live) wire with another hot (live) wire ?what do we call (whats the technical name) to the wire use in electrical house wiring connect to the switches (buttons) ? one is the hot wire (live wire) the other one is . ?what does happen if we connect a hot (live) wire with a half-wire ?: The support strand for the electrical feed is not the neutral, it usually does not provide a ground path, it is isolated at the house. Neutral is provided by grounding the electrical panel at your house, in some areas, this is done by connecting the electrical panel to the water pipe coming into the house, or it may be through ground rods driven into the ground (now they also used ground plates). If the water table in your area has lowered, then that is why the ground/neutral did not seem to work as well. If the ground is very dry, then there should be an array of them to give any protection. I would check the code because the panel should be grounded with a wire that is larger than a number 6. If your panel is not grounded that is a serious problem and needs to be fixed immediately. The neutral and the third wire ground are connected together at the panel to the ground wire. Breakers will not trip unless the problem is in your house, a problem outside will not cause your breakers to trip, and it is current that causes the breakers to trip, not voltage or heat. I think that possibly what happened is that the shorting of the leads to your house, then the removal of the short caused a surge in the voltage, and that was too much for the transformers. If the electrical company fixed the support wire and you described your problem, I would be very concerned that they did not verify the status of your ground, I would get a qualified electrician to check things out and give you a report. To protect your PC, I would make sure that the grounding of the outlet is very good, and to be doubly sure, I would use a GFI receptacle and a surge protecting power bar.

Q: I want to know, which type and size of wire we use for different household appliances in a home ?for e.g: if we want to connect a full size refrigerator/deep freezer/air-conditioner then which type and size of electrical wire we use ?if we have an electrical switch board that has 6 switches and 2 sockets then what type size of wire should be used so that there would be good connection and to avoid burning or heating of the wire and hence the appliance ?thanks a lot for your co-operation: House wiring must conform to wiring codes. Some places require the work be done by or at least signed off by a licensed electrician. Unless you follow your local codes you run the risk of fire, or even death in wiring near water. What's more, you will not be covered by insurance and you will be held personally responsible. There are too many opportunities for wrong answers on the internet. Please consult a licensed electrician.

Q: There is a thing that can measure the location of the wire inside the wall, what is this instrument called? What is its working principle? Thank you in detail: Are common, can not find the words you go to sell the computer market to buy a can

Q: I live in a rental townhome with three other houses connected. I believe they were built in the 50's if that matters. These are breakers with copper wiring and I noticed the other day just how crazy our electrical is run. First we only have four 15 amp breakers, one of them dedicated to our washer and entire kitchen including our fridge and microwave, and the window receptacle we would plug our window ac in to! The dryer has a dedicated 50 amp but the entire house runs off of those four 15 amp breakers. We recently bought a second fridge and i wanted to plug it in next to our washer but now that i know what is all running off that line i dont know what to do. I know this couldn't meet code in a home but is there some loophole rental units get away with doing this!? Would it be safe to plug my second fridge into that line?: Because it was good enough at the time it was built, pretty much. Meanwhile, relatively few need a second 'fridge even now, so that was not anticipated back then. Where I live (single family home neighborhood), the second is more often an old one in the garage, for a man-cave beer cooler, and are silly-expensive to run. One good fridge beats two old ones, everytime.

Q: Four air-conditioning, two electric water heaters at the same time need to use the number of square wires more: 27KW * 1.5A / KW = 40.5A (per phase current) 36KW * 1.5A / KW = 54A (each phase current) 10 square line maximum withstand current 40A, switch to 3 * 16 +2 * 10 cable, With M1-63A / . contactor replaced by CJX2-. with two 10 square lines and parallel line, 25-ping line of safe current in the 80 or so, with two small, water heater lead or replaced It, if only temporary can also be used for a long time or for a washing machine and the energy of the energy-saving lamps add up to 200 watts, can be ignored.

We always insist on honesty, good credit, high quality and professionalism, that is why our products are selling well and we establish long-time cooperation with our customers in many countries. Our products have occupied a big share in the cable and wire market in the local. Obviously, we are always expanding new markets in many other countries by establishing new branch offices.

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location	Henan,China
Year Established	1997
Annual Output Value
Main Markets	North America South America Eastern Europe Southeast Asia Africa Oceania Mid East Eastern Asia Western Europe
Company Certifications	CCC；ISO9001-2008；SGS

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name
Range
Reference
Validity Period

3. Manufacturer Capability

a) Trade Capacity
Nearest Port
Export Percentage	81% - 90%
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b) Factory Information
Factory Size:	50,000-100,000 square meters
No. of Production Lines	Above 10
Contract Manufacturing	OEM Service Offered
Product Price Range