A2XS FL 2Y / 2XS FL 2Y, 76 / 132 kV High Voltage Cables
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- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 500 m
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 m/month
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Specifications
1 The highest rated voltage is 500kV
2 The maximum section can reach 2500 mm2
3 IEC, ASTM, DIN, BS standard
4 Response within 12 hours
5 Factory direct sale
Application
The electric cable is applied to transmit and distribute power in power transmission and distribution system of 35kV~500kV. It is widely adopted in the fields including power, construction, mines, metallurgy, petrochemical industry and communication in complete replace of oil immersed paper insulated power cable.
Cable Properties
Special features which we can offer for HV cables:
* Watertight construction (both radial and longitudinal).
* Lead sheath available for options.
* Resistant to heavy vibration.
* Available in long delivery lengths to reduce number of joints.
* Corrosion-free screen area.
* Copper or aluminum conductor up to 2500mm².
* Metallic sheath and radial moisture barrier made of copper wire or tape.
* Different options for outer PE jackets (LDPE, MDPE & HDPE).
* Strippable insulation screen.
* Metallic screen made of multiple layers of copper tapes or a combination of copper wires and tapes to increase the earth fault current carrying capacity.
* Increased armour conductivity by insertion of hard drawn copper wires in armour.
Standards
The cable is manufactured according to IEC 60840, VDE 0276, AS/NZS 1429.2, . It is suitable to be installed in the power line with rated voltage from 30kV to 500kV for power transmission.
The maximum rated temperature
The maximum operating temperature of conductor shall exceed 90℃when the cable is used for long not period. The temperature of conductor shall not exceed 250℃ at short circuit for 5 seconds.
No. of core and sectional area(mm2) :
1 Core 150-1600 240-1600 400-2500 500-2500 800-2500 \
The main types of high voltage cables are YJV cable, VV cable, YJLV cable, VLV cable.
YJV cable full name crosslinked PE insulated PVC sheathed power cable (copper core)
PVC insulated PVC sheathed power cable (copper core), VV
YJLV cable full name cross linked polyethylene insulated and PVC sheathed power cable with aluminum core
VLV cable full name PVC insulated PVC sheathed aluminum core power cable
Due to the copper conductor excellent conductive performance, more and more engineering with copper core power cable used as the main power supply system, and application of the aluminum core power cable is less, especially in the high power system, the choice of the more copper core cable.
Part from the inside to the outside of the high-voltage cable comprises a conductor, insulation, inner protective layer, filling material (armoured), external insulation. Of course, armoring high-voltage cable is mainly used for underground, can resist the compression of high intensity on the ground and prevent damage to the other forces.
1KV and below for low voltage cables; 1KV~10KV for medium voltage cables; 10KV~35KV for high voltage cables; 35~220KV for extra high voltage cables;
Special high-voltage cable is along with the continuous development of the cable technology and the emergence of a power cable and extra high voltage cable general as the central link in a large transmission system, belonging to the high technology content of a high voltage cable, mainly used for long-distance power transmission.
- Q: I pulled, A RUNNING 1974 454 HEI from a 1974!I want to start it on my engine stand so I can get a compression check.Please FILL in the blank or change whatever is wrong, w/this outline,Run a hot wire from the battery to the starter and a ground to the block. DONE! Then run a second wire from the power on your cap to the battery. (I take this to mean the Bat + term. on the cap) Then use a wire from the s on the starter to the hot on the starter (THIS IS WHERE I HAVE MY START TRIGGER WIRED IN.) and it will crank over and fire up.I have 12 vdc at the BAT+ but still no spark, WHAT AM I DOING WRONG.??????????THANKS FOR THE HELP.The coil in the cap is good and I have gas.
- Why would you want a running engine to perform a compression test? Just crank the engine for this test. Now for the hook up, your cranking circuit sounds fine, heavy gauge wire from battery +p to starter motor solenoid +p. Heavy neg -N cable to engine block ground or engine stand. By appling 12v to the S terminal on solenoid energizes the starter and spins the engine. If the solenoid at the starter has anI terminal this is a 12 volt ignition bypass, providing a full 12 volts to the ignition coil for cold start, 12 volts will be provided as long as the keyswitch is engaged. If you do not have this terminal connected you will not have a secondary ignition circuit, which causes no-start. If the solenoid does not have an I terminal disregard the above, as the system utilized 12 v fulltime. Now for the ignition system, pretty basic set up, ensure 12v at the coil terminal under cap, the ign. control module will cycle the ignition coil based on the input from the reluctor and trigger wheel at the distributor, ensure the distributor shaft rotates and is not stripped or broken, ensure 12volt at ignition coil input, the negative to trigger the circuit originates at the trigger wheel, ensure all eight teeth are present and wiring is good, it has a permanent magnet built in check it, all else check outs have the ignition control module (also under cap) tested for serviceability. Some car have a delay 12volts to the ignition via the oil pressure switch, to prevent engine use and damage in event of oil deprivation. no oil no power to the ignition, thats why you have the ign.bypass circuit during startup no oil pressure is presenthope this helps.good luck
- Q: how many wires are allowed in a standard outlet box (i believe 3x2 1/2 deep). what do you do if you need more wires than are allowed?how many wires are allowed if i gang 2 boxes?i live in ontario, canada. thanks
- In the US by the NEC, it depends on the size of the wires. 14 ga it is 2 cubic inches per conductor. 12 ga it is 2.25, and 10 is 2.5 cubic inches per conductor. Your box is 3 cubic inches if you measured it right so you can only put 1 14 wire in it. Since you seem unsure of what you are trying to do with box fill, call a qualified professional electrician to do the work.
- Q: Hey guys,After diagnosing my car I found that my push to start was acting up. I went inside and found that the power wire had poor conductivity. Denying the car it's power. I released the wire and saw that it was completely black flaking off. That was the only issue though, everything else was in perfect condition. What kind of wire should I replace this with, is there wires that can support more of a charge? Or was it just wear and tear?As for now I just cut the wire in half and re stripped it, using the good part of the wire. Temporary fix until I purchase a better wire.Thanks
- all electrical wires are power wires. For an authoritative answer, we'd need to know which one you mean, and which make model it's on. However, to generalize, I'd be wondering why the wire was in that condition, fixing whatever it was, then replacing the wire with one with a slightly greater cross-sectional area (gauge).
- Q: Do the wires offer some sort of heating for them?
- As it gets colder, heating units require more and more energy as people use them more. As the current is increased, the wires heat up even more than they normally do. Standing on them offers the birds a free source of heat.
- Q: I noticed when somebody uses the microwave my tv starts to make REALLY loud zap noises and a staticy bar rolls down the screen. The tv does it on its own sometimes and I thought I saw the hallway lights flicker a bit when it happened.If I flip on the bedroom light the tv does the same thing again or if I unplug something from an outlet on the other side of the room. I don't know why EXACTLY, I only know its wiring if you can explain further please do. Also, if an electrical fire happens what should I do? Obviously no water because duh but do I cover it in baking soda? I saw that a lot on different websites. I do not own the correct fire extinguisher so what else would I use? Thanks for any answers!
- The first thing I'd suspect are the outlets and light switches. A lot of electrical contractors install outlets and switches that are cheap and quick to wire. The wires are just stabbed into the back where a small springy finger provides the contact. Over time those fingers lose tension and make a poor contact leading to arcing and noise and dimming lights when heavy loads come on line. All of them had side screw connections which can be used to cure the problem with the rear stab-in connections. If those aren't the problem then I'd look at the circuit breakers and the wiring itself. Breakers deteriorate as they age and sooner or later need replacing. Some older houses were also wired with aluminum wiring which is a BIG problem especially if it doesn't have outlets which were designated for aluminum. As to fires. Go to Home Depot or Lowes or your local hardware store and buy a dry powder exringuisher and have the local fire department guys show you how to properly use it. The extinguishers are inexpensive and are a life saver for kitchen or electrical fires. There's just no way you can throw enough baking soda to do any good on an electrical fire.
- Q: What is the price of cable 3 * 2.5 + 1?
- Cross-sectional area * length * density = mass such as: 1 m YJV-1KV-3 * 90 cable 3 * 90 * 1 * 0.0089 = 2.403KG
- Q: If I take 5 wires, all with their own insulating sheath, twist the wires on both ends, will this work as if all the wires were in one single sheath? Will the conductivity combine as if it's one wire in one sheath? Note I'm taking about a 1000 foot line one way.
- You will loose some resistance in the run, but you gain capacitive reactance so the wires heat and then you have a fire. For large gauge wire like 1/0 and up it is not the same issue Just run larger wire.
- Q: Can two wires be connected directly like wires?
- It is best not to connect, if it is connected, you can use the network module, the two lines connected, just like from the wall of the network panel to connect the same network cable. Do not exceed 100M.
- Q: I recently came across a big spool of rubber/plastic insulated electrical wiring. I cut into the metal with my knife and saw that it had an orange tint to it. I was excited because I thought it was copper but after I burned it and took it to a scrap yard the guy there stuck a magnet to it and said it wasn't copper. because it stuck to the magnet. So it's been about two months now and there's orange rust on it like Iron. but I know what steel wire looks like. This has that distinct copper orange in it but it's magnetic. Help me. I'm so angry and confused.
- its probably worth more than its weight in metal, question is, can you sell it anywhere other than scrapyard, if its heating element as suggested then perhaps you can, find an ohmmeter and measure end to end, it should have significant resistance if its an heating element. but if you burned insulation off the entire spool then you probably made it worthless, even scrapyard might pay you very little if its some unknown alloy
- Q: My home is 2.5 square aluminum, I would like to ask the maximum load of electricity a few kilowatts, thank you!
- ZR-YJV22-0.6 / 1kV-3x185 + PE95 for three-phase three-wire cable, three 185 square plus one protection line 95 square. ZR-YJV22-0.6 / 1kV-3x185 + 95 for three-phase four-wire cable, three 185 square plus one neutral 95 square.
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A2XS FL 2Y / 2XS FL 2Y, 76 / 132 kV High Voltage Cables
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 500 m
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 m/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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