A2XS FL 2Y / 2XS FL 2Y, 76 / 132 kV High Voltage Cables
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 500 m
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 m/month
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Specifications
1 The highest rated voltage is 500kV
2 The maximum section can reach 2500 mm2
3 IEC, ASTM, DIN, BS standard
4 Response within 12 hours
5 Factory direct sale
Application
The electric cable is applied to transmit and distribute power in power transmission and distribution system of 35kV~500kV. It is widely adopted in the fields including power, construction, mines, metallurgy, petrochemical industry and communication in complete replace of oil immersed paper insulated power cable.
Cable Properties
Special features which we can offer for HV cables:
* Watertight construction (both radial and longitudinal).
* Lead sheath available for options.
* Resistant to heavy vibration.
* Available in long delivery lengths to reduce number of joints.
* Corrosion-free screen area.
* Copper or aluminum conductor up to 2500mm².
* Metallic sheath and radial moisture barrier made of copper wire or tape.
* Different options for outer PE jackets (LDPE, MDPE & HDPE).
* Strippable insulation screen.
* Metallic screen made of multiple layers of copper tapes or a combination of copper wires and tapes to increase the earth fault current carrying capacity.
* Increased armour conductivity by insertion of hard drawn copper wires in armour.
Standards
The cable is manufactured according to IEC 60840, VDE 0276, AS/NZS 1429.2, . It is suitable to be installed in the power line with rated voltage from 30kV to 500kV for power transmission.
The maximum rated temperature
The maximum operating temperature of conductor shall exceed 90℃when the cable is used for long not period. The temperature of conductor shall not exceed 250℃ at short circuit for 5 seconds.
No. of core and sectional area(mm2) :
1 Core 150-1600 240-1600 400-2500 500-2500 800-2500 \
The main types of high voltage cables are YJV cable, VV cable, YJLV cable, VLV cable.
YJV cable full name crosslinked PE insulated PVC sheathed power cable (copper core)
PVC insulated PVC sheathed power cable (copper core), VV
YJLV cable full name cross linked polyethylene insulated and PVC sheathed power cable with aluminum core
VLV cable full name PVC insulated PVC sheathed aluminum core power cable
Due to the copper conductor excellent conductive performance, more and more engineering with copper core power cable used as the main power supply system, and application of the aluminum core power cable is less, especially in the high power system, the choice of the more copper core cable.
Part from the inside to the outside of the high-voltage cable comprises a conductor, insulation, inner protective layer, filling material (armoured), external insulation. Of course, armoring high-voltage cable is mainly used for underground, can resist the compression of high intensity on the ground and prevent damage to the other forces.
1KV and below for low voltage cables; 1KV~10KV for medium voltage cables; 10KV~35KV for high voltage cables; 35~220KV for extra high voltage cables;
Special high-voltage cable is along with the continuous development of the cable technology and the emergence of a power cable and extra high voltage cable general as the central link in a large transmission system, belonging to the high technology content of a high voltage cable, mainly used for long-distance power transmission.
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- You better do not change! The Because the line if the wrong will really burn the motherboard or USB device! The Is it not a 5m USB extension cord? You can buy one! The Or with two 3-meter pick up! It can be! The Too long a USB cable will affect the signal transmission! I suggest you do not exceed 5 meters (5 meters has been very metamorphosis)! The hope this helps! The The
- Q: Hello We have been running a room heater and humidifier from a bedroom wall electrical outlet for the last 4-5 months with no issue.2 days ago we noticed a burning/melting plastic smell when we ran the appliances for 10-15 mins. I checked the wall outlet after removing its cover and visually looks OK i.e. no blackening. I have not removed the actual sockets. Also, the appliances themselves seem to be OK i.e. no smell from them.Could the issue be in the wiring inside a wall? How to determine this? The smell seems to starts when we use this particular outlet only.If problem is not in outlet, then will the wall need to be broken into to determine the source of the problem? Is there a more sophisticated solution?What could have caused this sudden issue? A rodent? Water leakage thru the siding? Other ideas?Note that the circuit breakers have not tripped during this time to indicate overload etc.Thanks in advance for your opinions.Homeowner_ne
- Sounds like the outlet has a loose connection, causing arcing and overheating of the insulation on the wire. Check out the outlet or hire someone to do so before you use it again. If it is getting hot enough to make the insulation burn you have a potential fire hazard. Bert
- Q: What are the meanings of the English symbols on the chart?
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- Q: HelloRecently I installed 100W Bulbs in my home and noticed that the light fixtures became extremely hot and within 10 minutes they had started melting the insulation. So i looked at the wire and found that it was 18 Gauge and found that through all fixtures of the home some of them with at least 20 feet of wiring is this up to code? I also noticed that many sockets would not allow a laptop to charge or even a cell phone what could be the cause of this? I'm in ontario canada.
- I believe that Ontario codes requires that NMD90 14 gauge wire be used.
- Q: I have an old house (built in 1962) and after testing all of my outlets, have confirmed that none of them are grounded. The house is made of brick, so it would be extremely expensive to run new circuits through the house. I really only need 1 or 2 outlets to be grounded so that I can protect my expensive equipment from damage. So what I wanted to know is if I could buy a spool of 10 gauge solid copper core insulated grounding wire, drill a hole through the brick behind the outlet, connect to the outlet and run the other end of the wire around the outside of the house to the main box. Would that be safe? Would it hold up to power spikes?
- 1962 is not that old. You will likely have circuit breakers rather than fuses. Your service entrance must be grounded (or the utility would not have provided service). (1) Your branch circuits should be supplied by BX (armored cable, either AWG#14 or AWG#12) the cable armor is the ground path back to the fuse or breaker panel. If your house is wired with ROMEX (amateur work) the ROMEX (plastic covered cable) it should have three conductors: black, white, and green. Green is the ground conductor. (2) Many Service Entrances (fuse, or circuit breaker distribution panels) are grounded to water mains. However, many water meters are installed with Dresser Couplings (Rubber insulated compression fittings) which are non-conductive. The ground connection must be made on the street side of the water meter (if you use a public water supply). It's more likely that you have a poor ground path than no ground path. Ground rods driven into the earth are helpful but generally poor.
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- When used as a voice system termination, it should all be dubbed 5 pairs of connection blocks, so that 100 pairs / 5 pairs = 20 That is to say to do the voice system, only 20 pairs of 5 pairs of the connection block can be 100 pairs of 110 patch panels all play full That is, 100 pairs of patch panels can be terminated 100 voice points Note: CommScope indoor large number of cables generally 25 pairs, 50 pairs, 100 pairs of these three When used as a data system termination, it should be equipped with 20 pairs of 4 pairs of connection blocks, and 4 pairs of 5 pairs of connection blocks In this case, 20 * 4 pairs + 4 * 5 pairs = 100 pairs, and the total number of connected blocks 24 That is, every 100 pairs of 110 patch panels can be terminated 24 data points In summary, when it is used for different systems of transmission, the connection block configuration is also different And its configuration is more flexible, including but not limited to the above two
- Q: I have a 4-bulb light fixture in the bathroom that stopped working today. The other set of lights and fan still work. Things I have tried so far:1. I tried replacing the bulbs and it still does not work.2. I have reset the GFCI switch.3. I have reset the bathroom circuit breaker as well.I opened up the light switch (the panel has two switches for two sets of lights) and can't tell if anything is wrong. I also looked at the light fixture (it's open from above) and noticed that it has two wires going in from the wall, a brown and black wire. I also wanted to test that line if possible. If the line is working, then I guess the light fixture is bad. But how do I test the line?
- The best way to test is with a meter. Lacking that you can take the wires off the switch and short them together to see if the light turns on (this is what the switch does when you turn it on. There is probably a bare ground wire attached to the switch, don't short it to either of the other two wires on the switch. You can buy a meter at hardware stores for very little money to test the lines though and I would suggest that.
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- KVV Control Cable: Hard Conductor, Class 1 and Category 2 Conductor Voltage 450 / 750vRVV Flexible Cable: Soft Conductor, Category 5 and Category 6 Conductor Voltage 300 / 500V
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- you did the right thing. you made it up to cold. with the 18 gauge wire they could have a fire over heating it. never use 18 for garge door opener.
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A2XS FL 2Y / 2XS FL 2Y, 76 / 132 kV High Voltage Cables
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 500 m
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 m/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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