Non-rising Stem Resilient Seated Gate ValveDN40

Non-rising Stem Resilient Seated Gate ValveDN40

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Type:	Non-Rising Stem
Material:	Body: Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Wedge: Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Encapsulated with EPDM Seat: EPDM / NBR Shaft: SS410 Stem Nut: Brass O-ring: EPDM, NBR Wedge Nut: Brass / Bronze Hand Wheel: Ductile Iron
Operator:	Hand Wheel / Bevel Gearing / Square head / Electric actuator
Face to Face:	BS5163: 1986, DIN 3202 F4-F5, JIS B2002, ANSI B16.10
Flange:	BS4504, DIN 2532, JIS B2212, ANSI B16.10/ANSI B16.50
Working Pressure:	16 Bar(200 PSI)
Design and Manufacturer Standard :	BS5163, DIN 3352, JIS B2043
Test Standard:	API 598 BS6755 DIN 3230 JIS B2003
Application:	Water works, Sewage, Public facilties, Building industry, Petroleum, Chemical, Steel, Metallurgy, Paper Making Industry, Foods, Beverage, HVAC

Q: I have a question over my car. When a valve cover gasket(s) has a leak, will it still leak even after car has been off for a few days. It has also been starting to smoke after it has been on for 5 minutes. I don't move it. Thanks.: You can buy Valve gasket sealer for a quick fix.

Q: I just installed a iac valve on my 2001 blazer but didnt go through the reset steps. Do i have to unistall and do the steps or go from here with the reset. Truck stalls out now and surges... Or could i just hava a defective part.: The okorder /

Q: my EGR valve has gone on my Vauxhall Vectra 2.0 DI LS, 1998, 5 DOOR HATCHBACK, so i am getting a new one next week, what i want to know is, is it an easy job to replace them if so how do i do it? or is it better just to let a garage do the job?: The EGR on this model is indeed vacuum operated. The diaphragm rarely fails to be fair but that particular engine suffers with vacuum leaks. This is something that needs checking first. Also, before buying one, try sucking on the little vacuum connection going into the unit first. You should feel resistance as the plunger is sucked up against spring pressure. If no resistance is met, the diaphragm is gone and it needs replacing. If you can feel the plunger lifting, there is nothing wrong with it. You can remove it to make it easier. Push the plunger in by hand and put your finger over the vacuum connection; the plunger should stay where it is until you take your finger off. (It's hidden under the plastic cover on the top of the engine (3 Torx bolts) and is easy to access.) The EGR valve unfortunately comes with the inlet manifold (expensive) which would mean removing injector pipes etc. if you fit it all. It is, however, very easy to replace if you just remove the 2 bolts holding it into the inlet manifold. They are female Torx but an 8mm 6 point socket will work too. Any other questions on this job, just ask or email.

Q: It seems like the shutoff (stop) valve for the toilet is preventing my toilet tank from filling up for flushing. When I shut the valve, and open again, the water flows into the supply tube that flows into the tank for a few minutes. Afterward, the flow of water stops BEFORE filling the tank as if it lost pressure of water flow.I repeat the above (closing and opening valve) and does the same thing. (There is also no sign of leak...)What can I do? I'm hoping I don't have to call the plumber.: Definitely the tank float valve needs adjusting. Take the tank cover off and look at the water level, should be up pretty high and just below the venting tube. If it's not you need to adjust the valve. One quick and easy way is to bend the rod that is located between the float and the valve. Bend rod down so that the float sits lower in the tank. This should increase the amount of water in the tank. Some valves have a screw to adjust the water level. If this is the case you'll have to screw in one direction to see what the effect is (more or less water in the tank) then make the adjustment you need in the appropriate direction (screw in or out). Not a big deal, you can do it.

Q: Hi. im wondering what reed valves do and can they put on a 4-stroke engine or not???Thanks for your help.Dune.buggy5: Reed valves were popular when you could get a street two-stroke bike. They allowed air to flow only one-way. I think Yamaha even had a nifty rotary valve thing that squeezed the air that the piston sucked so it would flow a bit faster into the combustion chamber. With a four-stroke, I don't think there's any advantage to complicating the air flow with a reed. That's what cams and valves do. You need to burn more fuel to get more power. There are several ways to do this. You can do this with more RPMs, more fuel/air mixture, or a larger displacement. But that's about power, not necessarily a reed valve.

Q: Would it be cheaper to get a toyota Valve body U140/240 repaired or would it be easier to swap it out... by the way the transmission valve body would cost $780: LOL okorder DETROIT MICHIGAN! $780, my SORE LEFT FOOT!

Q: Hi there - We have an old house with galvanized steel pipes. Our main water shut off valve leaks -- the leak is from the packing nut. A plumber came out yesterday and tightened it, and it now barely leaks at all, maybe one drip every 24-48 hours (which it probably has been doing for the 6 years we have lived here, we just didn't know when we bought the place). Rather than replacing the whole valve (which, apparently, has a high liklihood of breaking the pipes in the foundation, requiring jackhammering and whatnot), we are thinking of installing a new shut off valve higher up on the pipe, where I guess it's less likely to break. If we go for the second valve, is there a way to close up that old valve (hydraulic cement, tape, solder, etc.), so it doesn't leak at all? The tiny leak is coming from the stem of the handle - can we remove the handle and cap it off or something? (And thanks to those of you who answered my husband's question about the pipes yesterday!): There is a very simple fix to your problem. Get some teflon tape, turn off the valve, back off the packing nut all the way, twirl the tape into a thread (about 4 to 5), wrap it around the stem, reinstall the nut and snug it up. Done! While there is special graphite packing for this purpose, it is usually hard to find and works no better than the tape. You can apply a small amount of vasaline to the stem before you put on the tape to make the valve operate more easily. Only tighten the nut enough to keep it from dripping or it may become hard to open and close. You can easily add a second valve by removing the pipe above the old one and installing a piece of copper with a valve inline. Some will say you need to worry about electrolysis if you screw an adapter into the existing galvanized but I am sure you will replace the old pipe before that is an issue 20 years from now. Good Luck!

Q: Ok, so I was just wondering, do you have to have a turbo to get blow-off valves? Also, do you have to have a manual? And are there any other requirements?: A blow off valve releases the excess pressure from your forced induction system when you close the throttle plate. It prevents turbo surge. If you install one on your naturally aspirated vehicle, all it will do is get you laughed at. As for the manual, READ IT! Blow off valves have nothing to do with the transmission, so automatic or manual, makes no difference. Word of advise: Don't work on or modify your car. You'll make it slower at the very least.

Q: Can a clogged EGR regulator valve cause my car to stall out and die when it's idling at red lights?If I give it a little has it wakes the car up and keeps it from dying.One mechanic told me it was clogged up and that it can cause that issue. My boss says there's no way that's the problem... I say we've fixed cleaned or replaced just about everything else...Is this true or is the mechanic just trying to pocket a bit more $$??: Egr Regulator

Q: like they say on 4 strokes you gotta go get valve jobs, and they cost bout 300 they say? well what does the mechanic do? can it be done at home and your just adjusting them?: A okorder /

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