Rated voltage 500V multi-core shielded computer cables

Rated voltage 500V multi-core shielded computer cables

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 m

Supply Capability:: 100000 m/month

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Type	Description	Laying conditions
DJYVP	Computer cutter-type polyethylene insulated PVC sheathed copper strip wrapping shielded cable	Fixed laying
DJYVP20	Computer cutter-type polyethylene insulated PVC sheathed copper strip wrapping shielded steel belt armor cable	Fixed laying

Type	Description	Laying conditions
DJYVP	Computer cutter-type polyethylene insulated PVC sheathed copper strip wrapping shielded cable	Fixed laying
DJYVP20	Computer cutter-type polyethylene insulated PVC sheathed copper strip wrapping shielded steel belt armor cable	Fixed laying

Type	Description	Laying conditions
DJYVP	Computer cutter-type polyethylene insulated PVC sheathed copper strip wrapping shielded cable	Fixed laying
DJYVP20	Computer cutter-type polyethylene insulated PVC sheathed copper strip wrapping shielded steel belt armor cable	Fixed laying

Type and Specification		Nominal cross-section	Structure number / diameter of conductive wire core	Insulation thickness	Shielded copper skin thickness	Sheath thickness	Outer diameter of the cable	cable insulation resistance	cable insulation resistance	Cable delivery length
Type and Specification		mm2	n/mm	mm	mm	mm	mm	Ω/km	MΩ/k.m	m
DJYVP DJYVP20	4 cores					1.6	≤168
	6 cores	0.8	1.01	0.70	0.10	1.6	≤21.5	≤18.4	≥500		≥50
	16 cores					2.0	≤25.5
	18 cores					2.0	≤27.5
	four cores					1.6	≤20.5
	6 cores					1.6	≤25.5
	16 cores	0.8	1.01	0.70	1.0	2.0	≤29.5	≤18.4	≥500		≥50
	18 cores					2.0	≤31.3

Q: I have a power adapter that goes to a mixer (Denon DN-MC6000) and reads: INPUT 100-240V ~ 50/60Hz 1.5A, OUTPUT: 12V - 3A. Now I know this is the right adapter but I don't know if I have the right cable that goes from the adapter to the wall. I have one that says 6A 250V~ but I dunno if its the right one. I have a few others but can someone tell me what will be the right one so I don't blow up my mixer :P thanks: This type of power cable can be plugged into any household power between 100 and 240 volts. So, any plug that fits into the wall plug is the right one. In the US and Canada the voltage is 110-120 volts. In the rest of the world 240 volts are used The plug and wire you mention is for the rest of the world. Now look at the adapter where you plug the cable into. Do they fit together? If yes go for it. If not keep looking.

Q: I have lost the power cable which came with my computer's PSU and after looking online for a while the online shops seem to sell the power cables with little information about whether or not they will function with different PSUs so I am guessing it doesn't matter which one I buy.: minimum watt PSU could desire to be ok given which you do no longer plan on including any peripherals as nicely the basics (a million no longer elementary tension and a million optical tension) and that video card... yet once you have 2 no longer elementary drives or connect a super variety of extra desirable USB units that leech ability out of your device, then you definately will want to have somewhat extra desirable overhead just to be risk-free. 500W or extra useful could desire to be lots. Get one with a minimum of two 12V rails and you may desire to be advantageous.

Q: ...suction cup mount?There is a port on the side of the device that the vehicle power cable fits into, but the manual says the vehicle power cable is designed to plug into the suction cup mount. What happens if I plug the vehicle power cable directly into the gps unit? Does the unit operate, but not charge? Does it not operate at all? Does it operate and charge? Before trying it, I'd like to know so I don't harm the device.: According to the Nuvi 370 instruction manual - this unit appears to be designed to receive power only through the suction cup mount. In other words - the vehicle power adapter connects to the suction cup mount, and when you attach the device to the mount - it receives the power it needs to operate. Looking at the photo in the owner's manual and the identified ports and controls - the device does not appear to have a direct connect power/charge port to which the vehicle power cable can directly connected. If your device does in fact have a charge/power port on its side that the vehicle power cable can directly connect to, then you should be able to make that connection without any problem. It should operate and charge your device just fine. Note: Your unit has a USB port for connecting the device to a computer for updates and for charging (via the USB port). If you want to charge the device without using the suction cup mount (and therefore the vehicle power cable to which it connects), you have the option of buying a vehicle USB power converter/adapter that plugs into your vehicle's 12V power outlet. Then you would simply connect a USB cable from the USB power adapter to your device to charge it. Update: Reading the instructions in the owner's manual a little more closely - it would appear that you can certainly plug in the AC power adapter directly to the unit, although they are not really clear about it. (The manual could have been written a little more clearly in my opinion.) So again, I will reiterate that if the vehicle power adapter connector will mate directly to the device - then it will power and charge the device without having to use the suction cup mount, if that is your desire. BTW, congrats on your new Garmin 370 GPS unit. Really nice!

Q: I have a usb powered cup warmer. It has a car adaptor. I would like to know if its possible to use it to charge my cellphone in the car, instead of buying a car adaptor.: The max power you can draw from a USB port is 2.5W (500 mA at 5V)

Q: Looks like a SATA power cable was pulled out of the hard drive without the button being pressed in and has broken tiny bits of the plastic above the Hard Drive connector that used to prevent the SATA cable from slipping out. Any suggestions on what I can do?: Tape or a new hard drive.

Q: Hello, I am looking to purchase a single power connector for 5 hard drives. I have a modular 1200W power supply, and all i can find on website is these single power connecters that do not even look like they will connect to my power supply. My computer came with power connectors for 4 hard drives in single cables. I do not want to waste another Power supply slot for just 1 more hard drive. Can anybody tell me how to search for this? Thank you.: I do not want to waste another Power supply slot for just 1 more hard drive. That's what they're there for.

Q: What happen's when you just yank the power cord out from the electronic (Computer or TV) while it is still running? Does it blow a fuse or something? And what should I do to fix whatever the problem is, assumming that the electronic doesn't turn on after i yank the power cord out?: Electronic devices should be OK if the cord is yanked, as long as it isn't done too often. It would be just like a power outage, the device would turn off immediately. It shouldn't blow a fuse or anything like that. If you pull the plug and it doesn't turn back on later, it could be that the power supply or transformer has gone bad. These are easier to replace in computers than in TVs and often cost less than $50.

Q: When the cable is plugged in the light is yellow like usual but when I plug it into the Xbox it goes red and I can't turn on my Xbox. I can use the cable for my other Xbox and the light turns green, but that one already has the red ring. PLZ HELP!! I JUST DOWNLOADED THE HALO REACH BETA! AND I'M BOREDand please dont just say halo sucks.: switch power supply and see if that works if not somethings wrong with your system and halo does suck thats only game that xbox has that is good and thats pretty sorry

Q: My amp was working this morning. On my way home, the power cable came out somehow. I put it back in and it wasn't powering on. The amp fuses were blown, I replaced them. Then I went to hook the battery terminal back and the fuse in my power cable blew instantly. I replaced it and tried again and it blew again. Also the fuses in the amp are fine now. I did the same process when I installed my amp the first time and it was fine so I don't know why it's doing this now. The amp is a Boston Acoustics 800w RMS amp and an 80a fuse. Any ideas?: you got a short to ground, make sure ANY part of the Positive (hot) wire is not touching the chassis