• Polyethylene(PE) insulated RF cable SYV75-5-1 System 1
  • Polyethylene(PE) insulated RF cable SYV75-5-1 System 2
  • Polyethylene(PE) insulated RF cable SYV75-5-1 System 3
  • Polyethylene(PE) insulated RF cable SYV75-5-1 System 4
  • Polyethylene(PE) insulated RF cable SYV75-5-1 System 5
  • Polyethylene(PE) insulated RF cable SYV75-5-1 System 6
Polyethylene(PE) insulated RF cable SYV75-5-1

Polyethylene(PE) insulated RF cable SYV75-5-1

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m
Supply Capability:
100000 m/month

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Product properties:  

Uses: This product is applicable to shared antenna systems, closed circuit television system and other signal transmission, and such cable has the characteristics of small attenuation and strong anti-interference


SYV Solid polyethylene insulated RF cable:

Type

Cable structure parameters

Inner conductor

Insulation

Outer conductor

Jacket

Structure elements/diameter

Outer diameter

Structure

Nominal thickness

Thinnest thickness

Outer diamete

SYV75-2

7/0.08

1.5±0.10

Single braid layer

0.43

0.30

2.9±0.10

SYV75-3

7/0.17

3.0±0.15

Single braid layer

0.66

0.45

5.0±0.25

SYV75-5-1

1/0.72

4.6±0.20

Single braid layer

0.90

0.60

7.1±0.30

SYV75-5-2

7/0.26

4.6±0.20

Single braid layer

0.90

0.60

7.1±0.30

SYV75-7

7/0.40

7.30±0.25

Single braid layer

1.0

0.70

10.2±0.30

SYV75-9

1/1.37

9.0±0.30

Single braid layer

1.2

0.80

12.4±0.40

SYV50-2-1

7/0.15

1.5±0.10

Single braid layer

0.43

0.30

2.9±0.10

SYV50-2-2

1/0.68

2.2±0.10

Single braid layer

0.56

0.40

4.0±0.20

SYV50-3

1/0.90

3.0±0.15

Single braid layer

0.66

0.45

5.0±0.25

SYV50-5-1

1/1.37

4.6±0.20

Single braid layer

0.90

0.60

7.0±0.30

SYV50-5-2

1/1.37

4.6±0.20

Single braid layer

0.90

0.60

7.8±0.30

SYV50-7-1

7/0.76

7.3±0.25

Single braid layer

1.0

0.70

10.2±0.30

SYV50-7-2

7/0.76

7.3±0.25

Single braid layer

1.0

0.70

11.2±0.30

 

SYKV vertical hole PE insulated RF cable:

Structure

Type

Inner conductor

Insulation outer diameter

Insulation resistance

Characteristic impedance

Capacitance

Attenuation Coefficient

Reference Weight

50MHz

200MHz

800MHz

Vertical hole Insulation

SYKV-75-5

1/1.00

4.8

5000

75±3

60

5.3

10.8

22.9

50

SYKV-75-7

1/1.60

7.3

5000

75±3

60

3.4

7.1

15.2

95

SYKV-75-9

1/2.00

9.0

5000

75±3

60

2.8

5.7

12.5

153

Q:Need advice from tech guys. Can I use laptop charger (20v 3.5A) as adapter with IDE/SATA to USB cable to power 3.5HDD in place of (12v 0.8 A) cheap adapter which just got faulty.
NO!! Don't do that - I got a hard drive in for repair recently where someone did that - she said it fitted so I thought it would be ok, it's got loads of data I need on that drive can you recover it? I was like - not any more I can't. 20v will blow the hard drive. If the PSU has gone on your external drive your best solution is to take the screws out of the external hard drive casing and open it up. You will find inside you have just a standard SATA hard drive.
Q:HiIm planning to buy a Antec Nine Hundered, how long would my power supply unit cables need to be to run my motherboard (Intel Tappen D945GTP) thanks
pretty much all cables on a psu is long enough to reach any mobo in any case (assuming its the correct form factor)
Q:The only thing that im worried about is that my PC power cable has three little slots where you plug it into the brick and my brick only has 2 slots, th cord still fits and powers up my xbox 360 but im just worried about it quot;fryingmy new system. Thanx
Don't do it. The power brick is what powers the console and you need it to properly run it smoothly. Just get a power brick. If you don't have one, go on OKorder.
Q:i know i need the sata cable and power cable is that all i need
Yep, that's all you need. Some older SATA drives have legacy support for normal 4 pin molex connectors in addition to the SATA power cable. If your drive is one such, do not plug in both. Choose one or the other. If you buy a retail boxed drive instead of OEM, you should get a 4 pin molex to SATA power cable if you don't have SATA power connections already. It's also possible that the harddrive you bought is SATA2 (aka SATA 300gbps). If your motherboard only supports SATA 150gbps, there's a jumper you need to leave on the drive. If you have a SATA 300 drive and your motherboard supports SATA 300, you'll need to remove the pin for full speeds. It'll work though if you forget to remove it. You can look in the user's manual to see what your motherboard supports.
Q:Right now, the cables behind my audio receiver are tangled beyond recognition. I need to organize them...How should I bundle my speaker wire to minimize RF and EM interference? I've heard that a quot;8-shapedbundle is good.Is there any truth to this claim? If so, explain.Thanks in advance!
any cable with an electrical current passing through will create an electromagnetic field. however when you bundle them in a single loop, because the currents are going in the same direction they will resemble a very big cable with a lot of current, so the magnetic field will be much larger (this is in part how an electric motor works). the best way to avoid this would be to remove excess cable so there would be no need to have loops. Really i'm not convinced about the benefits of having the cable in a figure 8 pattern, because it's just like having two loops really. i would try to avoid loops, or at least keep them away from the actual hifi and the speakers. generally components in your hifi and speakers will be magnetically shielded, to prevent any interference like that, however if you hear a buzzing noise when your mobile phone is near, than it's possible they're not shielded, as your mobile phone is a source of electromagnetic interference. if you're worried about electromagnetic interference it is also worth noting that wifi routers, mobile and cordless phones and microwaves are all sources of electromagnetic radiation. hope that all helps
Q:Does the Corsair CX series CX500W PSU come with an AC power cable?
I all my years, I've yet to see a power supply that doesn't come with a new power cable. Thing is, tho, the power cable is standard in 99.9% of power supplies. One will pretty much work on another.
Q:got 1 amp in the back,i want to add another amp at the front without a distrubuter,could i trail another power cable from the battery to the amp?
Yes but there is no might it will kill ur battery really fast.
Q:I need to change a cable that goes from public power lines to power meter because its skin/protecting shield is peeling off. What happens is that I need to fix this issue as soon as possible but do not know what kind of cable should be used for repair. I would greatly appreciate your help. Thank you!
What did the electrician say? This is not exactly a DIY project, because it requires inspection and possibly permits. You cannot connect this yourself. The size if the wire is related to the material, distance, and power. It may also be related to local practices. The old 60 amp service entrance is illegal, so you may have to upgrade to 200 amp which would be way different for wire size. An electrician will know the codes relevant to your situation. You can probably get the wire at a home improvement or electrical supply house but the electrician will have to make the connections. Plus, it keeps you from frying yourself or the electric company from pulling the plug.
Q:I currently have a 250 watt 2 channel power cord and a 500 watt alpine amp with 2 12 inch mtx terminator subs.i am continuously blowing blade fuses and i ended up buying a 680 watt power cable. Will this blow out my amp or do any damage or will it be all good and give the maximum power my amp can supply? (Without exploding) just wondering thanks!
250 watt power cord? Where are the fuses which are being blown? Maybe you put in the wrong fuses or the wrong amperage fuse.
Q:Apparently my computer has a 300 watt power supply. I am wanting to purchase a new graphics card but apparently in order to get a better graphics card then my existing card, Geforce 8400, I need a larger power supply.What will I need to purchase to increase the power supply to 500 watt and is it really worth buying all this? I am thinking I might aswell save up a bit more and buy a new computer.Any help apprietiated, thank you.
it depends on what you have in your existing computer. I did a quick check regards power consumption on a couple of different set ups and you could well get by with out having to change your PSU at all if you chose the right video card. I checked an Athlon II 250 with 2 sticks of DDR2 a single hard drive and a single burner with your card and then changed to a Radeon 4670 and a 5670. Both the Radeons did not need to have a PSU bigger than 350W. I next checked a Pentium D at 2.8GHz (yup a P4 roaster) with a similar set up and video cards and was quite surprised that it would make do with a 400W unit. I have been quite impressed with the performance and low power usage of the recent Radeon cards, especially the mid and low end ones. As a 300W unit was mostly used in low end boxes, you may indeed want to consider a new machine. I find that the current crop has some real interesting low and middle range offerings starting at about $400. YMMV. BTW a 500W unit is a decent choice if you intend on keeping your box and upgrading it. Good luck.

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